Final Fantasy 3 Piece (Bartop or assembles into Mini) COMPLETE (Aug 17 09)

[Epyx]

EDIT: FINAL PICS





I realize now that I have completely lost my mind with this hobby and I love it...

While waiting for some CP parts to arrive for my main Project I decided I would start building a bartop.  Gaming night at my place is awesome with the full size and I wanted a portable bartop for those nights I am not hosting.

I have several requirements that the bartop design must address:

- Shouldn't weigh more than ~50lbs
- DB25 modular plug in controllers
- 4:3 17" LCD for decent vertical (No rotating on this project!)
- External USB connections for Frets on Fire and UltraStar Deluxe peripherals and of course keyboard mouse
- Front panel DVD drive/USB/DB25
- Sufficiently geekish Fantasy theme

Hardware will be some additional spare parts I had lying around:

- P4 2.8GHZ from HP DC5000 PC
- 10" square Motherboard
- 17" LCD Monitor
- Cyber Accoustics 2.1 Speaker Set
- 200GB HD
- 1GB Ram

The TAXI CAB project from DMWorking247 is design that potentially addresses all these requirements.  I drafted up some plans that were a little taller/wider (and easier for a noob like me to cut!). 

Here are some pics after the inital cuts from yesterday:

[Epyx]

Today I made quite a bit of progress thanks to my understanding wife (well the shopping for a new dress helped...)

Here is a picture of the sides joined to bottom and top:



The front panel is a quick mockup to test proof of design and includes most of the requirements above (Power button, 2 USB, Headphone/Speaker Jack/DVD Drive/3 Port DB 25 Panel (For up to 3 CPs).

Outside Panels are 3/4" MDF and top/back/bottom are 1/2" MDF. Pine is used for the bracing.  Four magnetic hinges hold the back panel in place and a 7/8" paddle bit hole to is on the back to easily remove it with a finger (again ala the TAXI CAB design!)

I am hacking an old Printer box as the face plate is already fabricated. I cut the rest out with my jigsaw. I will wire this to an IPAC 4 on order.  The HP has a perfect USB/Speaker panel that is removable from the case that I can easily cut a hole for in the MDF and then screw in from the inside.  The color scheme will be black with Red Trim as I still have leftover black paint and ordered several colors of T Molding. Side Art and Marquee will be fantasy art themed but exactly what is still up in the air.

The very bottom of the inside behind the front Panel will contain the Power Supply/DVD Drive/HD and DB25 IPAC4 Hack. I have a removable 1/2" MDF insert tray that will house the monitor and MB. The monitor will rest against the slanted 1/2" Pine panel via holes I have drilled that line up with the 4 VESA mounting holes. 




I then filled the external screw holes and sanded and this picture shows a 2nd filling as I want a smooth finish.  Each CP will be approximately the same size as the X arcade solo and I hope to start on those as I build my main project CP this week.

[gonzo90017]

Looking good.
Hopefully you can post your plans when you're done.

[IG-88]

I second the plans thing. I'd like to see the measurements on this also.

What kinda games are you looking at putting on here? Are we talking PC type RPG's or console or maybe even arcade (tho there isn't really many of those). I was looking at doing the same sort of project (along with 17 others I have in the works . Mainly playing Diablo style games or maybe Baldurs Gate types. The issue I was having is how to incorporate all the different type of button layouts. I never considered a modular CP. Thats a good idea. Will you have to remap keys too?

[Epyx]

I will post the plans tonight.  While the theme is RPG (Ultima/Bard's Tale etc) the bartop will still be an all purpose emulator cabinet. MAME and console emus will be the mainstay.

While I started out with CRPGs (Might and Magic/Bard's Tale/Phantasie/Ultima/Wizardry) I also appreciate JRPGs like the Final Fantasy Series.  The console RPGs will all be straightforward as each emulator can be configured directly for the appropriate button/joy mappings (Zsnes/EPSXE etc).

As for Computer RPGs like Ultima or Bard's Tale that require multiple keystrokes they likely won't be that doable with how I am going about the modular panel.  (Of course i can always plug in a USB keyboard but then I might as well play on my computer!)

Here is the plan and tonight Ill highlight it in more detail when I get home:

Bartop Side

DB25 Female Panel (old Printer switch I hacked). I have removed all the sodder points on the switch side so will simply re-route them to terminal strips. From the terminal strips I will go into the IPAC4. This will allow up to 3 CPs to be attached.

CP Side

Joystick and Button modular CPs will be configured as follows:

A male DB25 cable will connect the CP to the Bartop. Each CP will have a DB25 female port so the cables just hook between the bartop and modular CP.  Inside the CP the buttons and joystick will be connected via quick disconnects and a terminal strip.  The terminal strip in turn to the pinouts on the DB25.  Ground will be daisy chained to the GND pin.

Trackball/Spinner controller will simply connect via USB to the external USB ports (2 of them) on the front panel of the bartop.

Having tested all the equipment it will be a tight fit but I should be able to fit my Cyber Accoustics sub inside the bartop to add a bit of oomf to ultrastar and Frets on Fire.

[dmworking247]

I can't tell you how happy it makes me to see The Taxi Cab design inspire new bartop projects, thats exactly why I designed The Taxi Cab & The Alien Bartop from scratch.

Its very nostalgic (even though it was only months ago) to see your cabinet in the construction phase. I like the way you've simplified the 'platform' and LCD mount.

I've subscribed to the thread already, I look forward to seeing future updates! It looks like you've got it figured out, but let me know if I can help.

[Epyx]

Thanks dmworking247.  I love both designs but felt the Alien rotating monitor was going to be a bit too ambitious for a first bartop and the Taxi Cab design lent itself perfectly to what I am planning.  The modular CP in particular is a great idea for a bartop and imo eliminates the crowded feeling of 2 players on a bartop. 

Hopefully I can hit you up with the odd question as the construction progresses!

[Epyx]

Well spent the weekend priming and painting. Cab will be black with red T Molding and therefore I wanted a Black and Red fantasy Marquee. I posted a few in the artwork section but here are the two I ultimately went with and got printed at Kinkos today (I can swap them out and go with whichever strikes me when cab is complete:




And a front shot of the cab primed with black paint drying:




This week I will finish the paint (a few more sandings) and then put in the T Molding and Bezel. Then the task of wiring and installing the hardware on the cab side. After that is done the modular CPs (which were cut today) are assembled and wired.

[Epyx]

Finally some more time to work on the Bartop.  Today I worked on:

- Cutting the plexiglass (16"x13.75")
- Installed Red T Molding
- Installed Speaker Covers and Speakers
- Installed Marquee (2x 16"x4.75" .80mm Plexi)
- Installed Marquee Light (12" Flourescent)
- Installed Monitor, Motherboard (with placement mounts, Powerbar, and tested all equipment

Here are some pictures:




I am really happy with how the paint job turned out. Two coats of gray primer, then 3 coats of Flat Black with up to 800 grit sanding in between.

The Printer switch faceplate will be black when complete...just testing it today to ensure it fit in the final configuration.

Here is the rats nest in the back...of course this will be cleaned up but again needed to ensure everything was still going to fit.



Power supply will be removable via a thumbscrew and is positioned on all sides (cept back) with L Brackets.






Next going to print out the side art. Side art will mould around the speaker covers and will be approximately 7.5"x10"

[Portnoy]

This looks great! I'm actually astonished at the progress....it took soooo long to build my upright.  At this rate i expect the finished project tomorrow

P

[Epyx]

Thanks Portnoy. The wiring for the modular CPs will take a while but the shell is certainly nearing completion.  Just a few more pics to add for today's progress.

Here are some shots with the Sideart. Side art was printed on Staples "Sticker Project Paper" and then covered with clear adhesive vinyl from Home Depot.:

[IG-88]

Did kinko's give you any copyright crap about the sideart? My store here is really paranoid.

Also, what is the sku # of that clear vinyl you got from Home Depot? It looks really good!

[Epyx]

I printed the art at home on my photo Lexmark using the Staples "Sticky Project Paper" It is semi gloss on one side and adhesive on the other.  I then covered it with the Home Depot product.  I am in Canada but looking at the US Home Depot it should be this stuff: Store SKU# 124303.

I will likely replace the art with something better down the road but for now it works.

[Epyx]

Last night I had everything plugged in (including a molex connector to the hard drive in backwards...) and heard a loud pop as my hard drive imploded...thankfully all my other components are safe and working...the charred hard drive being thrown into the bin...My only excuse is that the plastic surrounding the plug on the hard drive had chipped allowing me to plug it in (reaching in and not confirming...grrr)

Now the joy of trying to source a reasonably priced IDE hard drive today...seems most places have moved completely to SATA...can't blame them just a pain in the arse if you are replacing legacy parts (at a reasonable price)

[Gatsu]

Newegg.com is where I get all my pc parts from.

LINK
IDE 250 GB hard drive for $49.99

[Thebeast]

Just wanted to say as a full Final Fantasy addict that you get +100 cool points from me sir. I agree with Gatsu, Newegg is nearly impossible to beat.

[Epyx]

I found a local shop with some 250GB IDEs in stock for $54 Canadian which is roughly the same as the Newegg price without having to wait for shipping

Thanks all the same!

[Epyx]

Well, since finally finishing off the custom CP on my 1st project, my upright cab, I decided to complete this one.  One thing I love about this bartop is that it has been easy to bring around to family and friends. I have also read about a few posts on here where people have built bases for their bartops.  Well, I want to retain its ability to function as a bartop but also to stand in as an upright (albeit a slim one!). 

Two things I will do are build a custom CP for this one (same dimensions as X Arcade tankstick I have) and the base and have all 3 components fit in my car.  I built the base to allow the Tankstick to just insert and stay in place and this is my reason for building a custom CP to these same dimensions.  The base will have a ground plate component as well that the base will insert into (3/4" routed with a border trim).  I will maintain the colour scheme of the bartop (black with red t molding. No screws, all yellow glue.

Here are pics of the base made of 3/4" MDF approximately 35" tall and 17" w x 16" depth.

[Epyx]

Few more updates.  I really like how this turned out...I love(d) taking it places but it was always a pain finding a table/bar surface at someone's place...now a problem no more

Here is the base after priming



Here it is after some flat black paint

[Epyx]

T Molding and Chrome floor plates in place



After a 20 second assembly into Mini-Cab form



Rear View

[Epyx]

Just to give you an idea of the scale...here it is side by side my main cab. You can see the controller (to be replaced...in progress) is the same height as the main cab...as is the monitor.  What I love is that each of the 3 pieces is light and portable and fits into the back of my car and then assembles into a fully upright mini.

[severdhed]

very cool...that is a great idea

[cboy]

neat. Maybe I should make a base for my Bartop....

[javeryh]

Wow - I really like what you have done here.  That mini looks completely playable - and portable!  It must be great for parties and stuff.  How is the stability?  I imagine is weighs quite a bit less than a standard cabinet and most of the weight is in the monitor up top.  Does it move at all during a 2P Street Fighter game?  Also, how are you holding everything together?  Any latches or did you design it to fit together like a puzzle?  After seeing this I think every bartop should have a base somewhere.  Nice job!! 

[drpcken]

Wow.  i've totally been thinking of doing a Final Fantasy theme with my new project.  Either with blue and black or green and black.  I haven't gotten that far yet.

[Epyx]

Thanks guys.

Javeryh,

The stability is rock solid. Everything was assembled with only glue and I think this added to the stability. 3/4" MDF and you are correct the bartop weighs about 40lbs, plus the controller itself...it honestly moves less than the larger cab beside it during a fighting game (tested with my daughter last night!).  So it is hollow for portability but the glue really assisted in making sure there is no wiggle and I made sure that the bottom is completely flush along the chrome strips so it rests completely square on the ground.

No latches other than the U Grip for the controller as I wanted to make it look as seamless as possible...the bartop itself just rests on top of the pedestal portion.


Drpcken,

When/if you do a FF theme...I wanna see it!:)

[Ginsu Victim]

Ya know, normally I ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- on cabs with an X-arcade stick, but this one turned out pretty cool. Nice work!

[Epyx]

Ginsu,

Thanks and believe me the X arcade is going the way of the dodo...just using it as a place holder as I did with my original cab...The replacement will have the exact same dimensions but will either be black formica with red trim t molding (to match the rest) or FF artwork with plexi and red trim t molding...not sure which would look better?

[Epyx]

Since I have completely changed the direction of this bartop's original design, I will use this opportunity to experiment a bit. I will re-do the front panel to only include the USB jacks and lower them so they are below the profile of the custom controller. I ordered another IPAC 2 which I can then plug in underneath the back lip of the CP out of sight, and still lap the controller if the bartop is temporarily on a coffee table etc.  I will remove the DB25 jacks and they won't be present on the newly cut panel and just lower the dvd drive as well so the upper portion just below the plexi/bezel is completely clear.

I have decided to go with the left over formica and red trim and will attempt to do the Mountain beveled edge for the trackball...anyone know if I can pull this off with Formica or would it splinter beveled?

[emphatic]

Very nice implementation of the X-Arcade! The only thing I would change is to put that red T-Molding on your X-Arcade as well and really make it blend in with the rest of our design.

[Epyx]

Thanks and agreed and I mention this above. I am building a custom controller for this and it will have red t-moulding.  The X-arcade has been gutted for its parts to go along with the IPAC2 in the new controller. The X-Arcade t-mold is a 1/8" spine as opposed to 1/16" so its easier for me to just build a new panel.

[Epyx]

Continued work on my custom CP...finally the moment many anti X-Arcadians have been waiting for:

A fully disassembled X-Arcade Tankstick, which will still make a nice template



I created a new bottom for the CP (1" wider) that fits into the holder and joined straight edge with 45 which I will flatten the curve on even more.  I will also create a new front panel for the bartop with just USB and connect the CP underneath behind the scenes as it looks shoddy sticking out above like that.



And test cut of the top.  I will offset the slot to cover the Formica and bevel the bottom as it is 3/4".



Tonight...drill, bevel, trim/drill formica, cut offset T mold slot, dado cut bottom for panel access and prime the CP.

[javeryh]

Wow - what a difference!  This thing is so sweet.  One small comment - are you sure you want the same button layout as the X-Arcade?  I think a 6 or 7 button layout looks nicer and there are lots of people around here who have some great ergonomic designs.  You could also move the trackball closer to the front edge to give you more room to swing a golf club in GT or bowl or something.  Just a thought...   

[Epyx]

Hmm good point on the buttons and I will give some other layouts a try for sure. The trackball might be tight as once its routed out on the bottom the cables are already pretty close to the front side of the CP box (The penciled rectangle you can barely see on top is the dimension of the box underneath, but I will see if I can inch it towards the front anymore. Thanks!

[gryhnd]

A fully disassembled X-Arcade Tankstick, which will still make a nice template

I used an X-Arcade Trackball in my latest build.  Just a heads up if you aren't already set: I had a tough time finding a 2 7/8" hole saw for the cut out. I ended up getting a DeWalt off Amazon for $10 (I already had an arbor). I probably could have done it with my router, but the hassle factor compared to the $10 wasn't worth it.

[Epyx]

Thanks gryhnd but I already used that same 2 7/8" hole saw for the X-Arcade Trackball (which I actually really like the feel of) in my main cabinet (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=85645.0) . 

I completely agree with you that the hole saw is the way to go for this and then just route out the holder which again is what I did on my main cab.

[severdhed]

i'd definately consider changing the button layout...i have an x-arcade unit that i gutted to install into my first panel.  i never cared much for the xarcade layout.  i relocated the two bottom buttons for each player to use for other things.  one went to be an Exit button, one was Pause, the other two i disconnected entirely and ran them to the coin door switches.

if you are going to the trouble of building a new panel, you should not limit yourself to their button layout...make it the way you want it

[Epyx]

Tested the offset slot on 3/4":



Still not sure though...screwed up on the 1st CP slot cut so had to make a 2nd...then decided based on the picture above to create a quick one in 5/8" and I think I like the look better plus I will not have to bevel cut the bottom.  There is only the tiniest overhang on the bottom with the 5/8".  Then there is still the question of the button layout...oddly I do like the X arcade layout but then saw one in the CP database that takes those extra buttons, moves them to the top of the CP with the 1 start and turns them into Pause/Esc (and another pause/esc with 2start on other top side) so may do that.

I will decide tomorrow but for now I will sleep on it.

[Epyx]

Well, I honestly tried several layouts of button configurations but I dunno...at the risk of heresy...I rather like the 8 button layout (the bottom left makes a great Defender reverse button) of the X-Arcade...what I did change was the 2nd two flipper (coin) buttons were moved to the top of the panel next to the P1/P2 start buttons.

I also ended up going with the 5/8" MDF as I was unsure about the bottom bevel (ok nervous...).

As with pretty  much everything MDF involved  now, this was glue only. Magnetic latches for the bottom panel.

[Epyx]

Here are a few shots of the controller complete...I am really happy with how it turned out.  The bartop/mini is completely portable and configurable depending on preference...bartop mode with just the control panel...no problem...mini configuration with everything in place...no problem just a few seconds to setup. I like this flexibility because you can stand or just sit on the couch with the controller on your lap and bartop on the coffee table (comfortably straddles two peoples laps without getting all touchy feely...).

I used Formica, leftover from the previous controller for the finish.  As mentioned previously, I lowered the USB ports to below the lip of the CP so it can be plugged in and then the CP inserted into place. I prefer it this way because everything is hidden.  DVD Drive is below the lip as well (although with USB drives, I will likely remove this all together).  I had half a dozen Cherry switches so swapped the 1,2 and 3 player buttons on each side with them.






Now I need to finish some "other projects" as my wife puts it before I can even think of a 3rd cab...