Power to the Cabinet

[acevedor2]

Well I am finally getting around to actually building the cabinet...a year after I finished the CP...

Anyway, I can't seem to remember where to get one of those plugs you can install in the back of the cab that is similar to that on a PC power supply. 

I have a Smart STrip that will control everything and I have wired a power button to the top of the cab to turn the PC off and on (thus turning everything off and on).  However, I need to get power from the cab to the wall.  I wanted to install one of those little plugs in the back.  Then I could wire the smart strip to the plug inside the cab and use a PC cord plugged into the outside of the connector.

That said, I can't remember where to find one of those sockets for the cab and what it is called.  I did a search, but can't seem to find it.  Anyone know off the top of their head?  Thanks!

Cheers.

[DaOld Man]

Is this what you are wanting?



It's called a entry module.
Heres where I bought mine:

http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pages/electrical.shtml

[acevedor2]

Awesome, that is exactly it!  Thanks!
Cheers

[soccercop]

Thanks very much.

[DaOld Man]

Glad to help. Good luck with your projects.

[ideft]

OR.....

you could just find a broken power supply and rip it out of there.

[web.geek]

Is this what you are wanting?



It's called a entry module.
Heres where I bought mine:

http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pages/electrical.shtml

So how do you connect the smart strip to the business end of this thing?

[acevedor2]

I was going to ask the same question.  I assume that I have to cut the plug off of the smart strip and then solder/crimp the connections to that piece.  Any thoughts?

[Franco B]

Yup, you got it.

Either solder the wires directly and use heatshrink to insulate the terminals or use insulated quick disconnects (or use uninsulated ones and heatshrink them).

Just make sure you get the polarity right 

[BASS!]

Just install one of these, makes everything nice and tidy. Then gut a power supply from a computer to power it.

[web.geek]

I must need more details, because it doesn't sound as intuitive as your "Just install one of these, makes everything nice and tidy" comment would lead one to believe. I don't see how this gets power from the wall outlet to the cab: a male-to-male power cord? Can you show a picture of how you have implemented this solution? There's a reason why people say a picture is worth 1,000 words.

[ChadTower]

I love the entry modules.  I'm even considering popping them into future restorations for a good clean interface.

[Necro]

10A is enough for an entire cab?  (some of the others are only 6A)

[Missile]

I must need more details, because it doesn't sound as intuitive as your "Just install one of these, makes everything nice and tidy" comment would lead one to believe. I don't see how this gets power from the wall outlet to the cab: a male-to-male power cord? Can you show a picture of how you have implemented this solution? There's a reason why people say a picture is worth 1,000 words.

The outlet goes inside your cabinet to plug your powerstrip into.  That wire going out the back goes to your wall outlet.  I'd suggest using a cheap power-tool style extension cord if you have one laying around, rather than 14-2.

[DaOld Man]

10A is enough for an entire cab?  (some of the others are only 6A)

10 amps should be plenty of juice for most applications.
If you really want to get down and dirty about it, just add up the current draw of each device to get the total requirements.
Most CRT monitors are a couple or three amps.
Look on the monitor's info tag, or look up the model of the monitor on the net to get curent draw.
If you're looking at watts, the simple formula I=P/E
Where I=amps, P=watts and E=volts.
Or it may be easier for you to say this amps = watts dived by volts.
This is not exact with AC voltage but it will get you close enough.
Example: A 400 watt computer power supply running on 120 volts AC would be 400/120 = 3.33 amps.
And a computer's power supply is rated for maximum wattage, it doesnt mean that is what it is actually pulling from the AC power line all the time.
Now say if your monitor is rated for 2 amps, then the total draw would be approx 5.3 amps.
Now throw in a marquee lamp, 30 watts or 0.25 amps. (15 watts would be half that)
I think you are getting the picture.

The 6 amp power entry module may be cutting it too close, but Im sure you can find them rated for much higher. At least you know what to look for now.
The entry module I pictured also has a filter to catch incoming noise. This is probably not really necessary for most arcades. You can find them without this filter for a lot less moola.

Edit: or just do what ideft said and hack and old power supply to get it's entry module.