Console Joysticks in the Works. - NEW PHOTOS!! UPDATED 2/14/09!

[Gatsu]

This has been an on and off project for a good 6-8 months now. And since I've moved in with my girlfriend I've had more free time on the weekends to get some stuff done. So I figured I'd take this project back up again.

I'm working on three sticks right now. 1 for PS2, and the other 2 for Xbox 360 (wired).

The first stick is gonna be painted to look rusty and muck covered (like Silent Hill). And will hopefully match the artwork.

The 2nd and 3rd sticks will be Street Fighter IV oriented. Probably gonna end up making a stick for every character in SF IV. So about 12 total.

Here be some starter pics.








The dimensions are 4"H x 10.75"L x 8.25"W.

[dmworking247]

And since I've moved in with my girlfriend I've had more free time on the weekends to get some stuff done.

Thats how it starts... until you're addicted to this 'freedom' you think you have, then you'll get married, then suddenly, it all dissapears again

heheheh

[Gatsu]

actually a funny story....we can't get married. She'd lose her social security. So FREEDOOOOOOM!!! hehehe.

[Gatsu]

alright a little update.

got the 3 boxes drilled and assembled. that was a chore, but they look good. I'll post pics tomorrow before I start to prime and paint.

which brings me to my little story of idiocy.

When I purchased the board Im using to build all the sticks.....I intended on buying MDF. Sadly though, I fudged that all up and got particle board by mistake. Didn't notice till I had all the pieces cut out and assembled.

So....the question. How do I paint particle board? I know it swells when anything wet hits it...so....I take it I need to seal it.

I need input. Pretty please.

thanks in advance.

[Gatsu]

Had some unexpected car issues yesterday so I didn't get a chance to go take pictures like I wanted to.

Still gotta figure out what I need to do to paint particle board though.

Any suggestions on what I could use to seal the wood so its easier to paint?

[javeryh]

I think you are going to have to cover it in spackle or wood putty and then sand it down before priming and painting.  If you haven't glued everything together you could look into laminating the exposed sides...  I don't know how else you could do it...

I like the shape of the box and the artwork looks cool too.   

[Gatsu]

Thanks man. Yeah I like the shape too...it just simple and to the point. Hopefully I can do the artwork justice in the paint job. lol.

Ok....so now the big question.

Since I've got cutting these pieces pretty much down to a fine art now....would it be faster for me to just buy some MDF and recut the pieces using the existing 3 as measuring templates?

Or take the time and try to save these 3? I can use the particle board for something else...so thats not a big loss....I just hate losing a whole weekend to get this far and lost it all pretty much.

[punxrus]

I would just cover it with wood putty or even bondo. I know a lot of professional window installers who use bondo to smooth out wood work. I like the style...I'm just wondering where you go the artwork from...I love Silent Hill!

[Gatsu]

Glad you dig the artwork. Its all from the Silent Hill film. I went looking for some hi-res wallpapers and then took them apart and made a collage in Photoshop.

I'll give the bondo a try then. Depends on the cost of bondo to cover a stick vs. the cost of a sheet of MDF.

Would I need to bondo around the inside of the button holes as well? or just the areas that are gonna be painted?

[Gatsu]

Gonna keep the particle board sticks around as tester sticks....so those'll be for my little mame console once I get more buttons and whatnot ordered.
But I went to home depot and picked up some 3/4" MDF board.

Got the 1st stick cut out, the joystick area routered, and the whole case assembled. All thats left is cutting out the plexi, painting the box and beginning to mount everything in the case.

This one will be for PS1/PS2 (or PC is you have a usb adapter).

I'll post more once I get some work done today.





- Gats

[Daniel B.]

much better with the MDF. You made the right choice!

[Gatsu]

Now I'm stuck in a waiting period....since my pop doesn't have the tools necessary to cut down plexi-glass....he's gotta borrow it from his job.

Any tips or things I need to worry about when I cut the plexi down? and punch the button/joystick holes out?

Also...what size bolts do I need to use to mount the Happ competition stick in there?

As for the size of the PCB's in the case, the PS2 boards fit just right. No problem. The 360 PCB however....might be an issue. So I might need to make the 360 sticks bigger so I have more room for the guts & wiring. I just prefer the feel of Happ parts over Sanwa & Seimitsu.

[Daniel B.]

The plexi tools he's bringing how are likely going to be something to "score" the plastic and then "snap it" like glass.  The problem with this, is that sometimes, no matter how deep you score the plastic, it may not break exactly like you want it. Forstner bit will be the best, but holesaw can be used. Make sure you put the plastic on top of some wood when drilling, keep the edges nice and clean.

As for the happ comps, it's best just to take the stick with you to the hardware store and look for yourself. I'd take the entire thing down there for the best end result.

I wish I had more advice, but thats it.

[Ginsu Victim]

I would've made that Silent Hill one out of rusty metal, with rusted mesh over the CPO. 

Make everyone have a tetenus shot before playing...

[Gatsu]

I would've made that Silent Hill one out of rusty metal, with rusted mesh over the CPO. 

Make everyone have a tetenus shot before playing...

thats precisely how Im gonna paint it....to make it look like rusty metal. I was gonna get some fencing and screw it to a few spots.....but too many sharp edges. Dont need a lawsuit. 

[massive88]

Now I'm stuck in a waiting period....since my pop doesn't have the tools necessary to cut down plexi-glass....he's gotta borrow it from his job.

Any tips or things I need to worry about when I cut the plexi down? and punch the button/joystick holes out?

When I made mine, I tried first to use the hole saw, and it worked just fine for the first few, then I cracked the plexi on the fourth.

So its possible with a hole saw imo.  Practice a few first if you can.

What I ended up doing, is using a 3/4" spade drill bit with barely any pressure.  It was the perfect size for my joy stick, and on the buttons, it gave my a pilot hole to then stick my router pattern bit into.  Then the router works wonders with plexi.

As for cutting it down to size, I scored the hell out of it on both sides, and broke it to get it down to about 1/4" of the final size.  Then it was the pattern bit again to knock it down to exact dimensions.

[Gatsu]

anything you'd recommend to smooth out the edges if need be?

Thanks for all the input. I can't wait to get one finished.

[Gatsu]

Just printed out my overlay artwork. And I must say....damn its pretty. I can't wait to slap them on the sticks once they are done.

I just gotta trim 2 of the corners off and then cut out the button/joystick holes.

Got them done on 11"x17" kromekote gloss. 

[massive88]

anything you'd recommend to smooth out the edges if need be?

Thanks for all the input. I can't wait to get one finished.

I didnt need any smoothing, as my only exposed edges were done with the router, and all those came out real well.  If I eventually put my washer below the surface, Id need to smooth the edges of the joystick hole.  For that Id probably try a file as I saw suggested in some other thread.  However again, Id test it on a spare piece of plexi first.

[Gatsu]

Got a quick stupid question.

The buttons I've worked with most are the Happ competition buttons. But I found these and wondered if they would be comparable to the Sanwa buttons...

http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/601200xx.htm

I have no idea how well these work. Any ideas?

[Gatsu]

Gonna start priming the 2 cases I've got assembled already (was working on the wiring yesterday). I'll post some photos when I get home from working on that.

Gotta cut out the parts and assemble the case for my 1st customer (w00t w00t). He wants a Xbox 360 stick with Happ parts and Mass Effect artwork on it. Gonna have 8 face buttons and 3 along the back piece (guide, start and back).

Still have the plexi to cut out and mount after the painting is done, and waiting on my button order to come in. Also gotta hit up Home Depot for some quick disconnects. Ran out last night.


One other update (non-joystick in nature). I'm starting to work on some plans for a sit down Street Fighter IV style cabinet that Im gonna build next summer. Why? because then Street Fighter IV will be readily available for PC and the home consoles....though Im gonna try my hardest to get the real guts to a SFIV machine.....under the current $6,000 price point of course. 

The case will have a 28" LCD HDTV (720p, HDMI & component in), 2 players and a surround sound system so this badboy will shake the house. This cabinet will also be used as my general gaming monitor for my Xbox 360 and PS2.

- Gats

[Kaytrim]

Got a quick stupid question.

The buttons I've worked with most are the Happ competition buttons. But I found these and wondered if they would be comparable to the Sanwa buttons...

http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/601200xx.htm

I have no idea how well these work. Any ideas?

Those definitely look like 24mm Sanwa buttons.

[Gatsu]

I guess I'll order a set for the next stick and see how they work. Next thing you know Happ will have its own Sanwa style joystick.


I guess I need to ask....for all those out there that built/are building there own sticks....what parts do you prefer and which last longer?

[Gatsu]

just a little update. got the first sheet of plexi cut....my god what a mess.  I ruined probably a 3rd of the sheet. Thankfully I came up with a way to cut the plexi without shattering it.

Basically set the plexi down on 2 thick pieces of board and clamp it down real good. The boards should be about a 1/4th of an inch apart creating straight edge groove for the router to travel down. Use a bit with a ball bearing so it only cuts the plexi and not the wood. Easy breezy.

Once the piece is cut out, fit it to your joystick top, clamp it, then router the edges so you've got it nice and flush. If need be, you can use a dremel tool with a grinding tip to clean up the edge.

To drill out the buttons, had to drill a small pilot hole for the larger bit to go into. Otherwise it would try to grab too quickly and end up shattering the plexi. After the hole is driled out, lightly grind with the dremel and its good to go.

The key....do it slowly.

Thankfully it only took me ruining 1 small piece to get it right.

I'll post pictures tonight....I forgot to take the camera with me last night.

[Timoe]

The first stick I ever made looks a lot like the one in your signature/logo.   

^ I just realized how "asshat" that sounded.  Glad you got the plexi worked out. 

[Gatsu]

yah...I hope you don't mind if I borrowed the design. If you'd like I can give you credit on the graphic or link to your thread in the SRK forum. Just let me know. Or if you preferred I didn't use it thats cool too. Just lemme know.

I used the photo as a base in photoshop and redrew the case and joystick and just used solid blacks & grays to fill it in.

[Gatsu]

Yet another update.

Plexi-glass cutting SUCCESS!!!! I managed to get the plexi cut with this really awesome router bit my dad borrowed from his work. It even has a ball bearing on the bottom of the bit so it only cuts the plexi, not the wood template.

Its so sweet I'm gonna have to pick one up today from Lowe's.

So the plexi crisis is over. I can cut that down without warrant.

Issue #2...paint. I got a case painted mostly. But hit a snag. The top and sides had finished drying, so I turned it over and started painting the bottom. Let it sit for around 2 hours. Gave it the tacky test...and it seemed dry. So I turned it over and set it down somewhere else so I could start painting the 2nd case. Came back to it later and picked it up....it took the board I set it down ontop of with it. So....definitely not dry. So since thats ruined, I've gotta sand that back down and repaint the bottom. 

So...I'm gonna take a break for a day or two. Think I inhaled too much MDF dust because my sinuses are acting up something fierce today. Gotta wear the mask more.

Sadly no pictures because my retarded ass forgot the camera again at home before I went back to my rents house. 

I'll get back to it on Thursday and hopefully will have something to show for it.

[Kaytrim]

Issue #2...paint. I got a case painted mostly. But hit a snag. The top and sides had finished drying, so I turned it over and started painting the bottom. Let it sit for around 2 hours. Gave it the tacky test...and it seemed dry. So I turned it over and set it down somewhere else so I could start painting the 2nd case. Came back to it later and picked it up....it took the board I set it down ontop of with it. So....definitely not dry. So since thats ruined, I've gotta sand that back down and repaint the bottom. 

I rigged up a few painting jigs that make it easy to paint all sides of the case at once.  The wire is the stuff used in suspended ceilings and are ground to points in the ends to bite into the MDF.  You could also drill small holes that fit the wires for a more secure mounting.  The base is just a piece of MDF with some rubber feet.  I then made a lazy susan to spin the case while painting.  Once you are done spraying you can set the jig aside to dry for how ever long you need.  I usually wait a day at least. 

You have to remember that paint and even any finish has two stages, drying and curing.  The drying phase can be a little as 15-20 minutes to as much as 2-3 hours.  Drying is the evaporation of the solvent that allows the finish to flow onto the workpiece.  The curing phase usually is a few days.  During this time the finish gets hard.  This is a chemical reaction within the finish.  During the curing phase the finish can still be damaged easily as you discovered.

So...I'm gonna take a break for a day or two. Think I inhaled too much MDF dust because my sinuses are acting up something fierce today. Gotta wear the mask more.

The paper dust masks will not protect you against MDF dust.  The dust is too fine and the paper masks don't seal around your face.  Get a respirator with replaceable filter cartridges, they sell for under $40 at HD or Lowes.  The cartridges usually last around 8 hours of breathing time.  Put the respirator in a ziplock bag when not in use.  The nice thing about the respirators is that you can get cartridges for dust and others for paint.  Here is the one that I use...  Lowes link.  It costs more than the others but your health is worth much more.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[javeryh]

Wow Kaytrim - that's awesome.  You're like a ninja or something with all those secret skills.   

[Kaytrim]

When you do something on a production scale you find ways to make the process smoother and quicker.  As they say necessity is the mother of invention.

[Gatsu]

thanks for the input Kaytrim.

I'll be working on a painting setup this weekend then. So the painting process takes the longest. Several days per box.

[Kaytrim]

So the painting process takes the longest. Several days per box.

Yep,  especially if you want the mirror finish.  You need to let the final finish cure for a few days before you start the wet sanding process.  Applying the finish is not that bad.  Once one coat is dry you can apply another coat.  I usually go with 2-3 coats of primer followed with 3-4 coats of color followed with 2-6 coats of clear.  If you are going to wet sand then you will want more coats of the clear.  Of course the more coats you apply the longer it will take to cure.  I normally let the color coats cure before applying the clear coats.  I also lightly sand with a 200-400 grit paper to take out any dust nibs left in the color coat.  Then let the clear coat cure before going any further with assembly or wet sanding.  You can really mess up a finish installing the controls unless the finish is cured.

One thing that I have done to protect the finish while installing the controls is build an open box out of 2x4s and add some foam weather strip along the top.  This gives the joystick a nice stable base to work from for the wiring.  It also protects the finish and Plexiglas from scratches during this phase of construction.

Hope that helps and doesn't lead to information overload.

TTFN

[Gatsu]

no such thing as too much knowledge. 

[pinballwizard79]

Gatsu is your avatar from the South Korean movie "old Boy"?

[Gatsu]

Yep it is. One of my favorite movies.

[pinballwizard79]

So a guy "likes" his sister, he gets mad & makes a guy "like" his very own daughter.....then he, the bad guy "dislikes" himself.

That's a favorite movie of yours?

 

Anyway, I liked Twin Peaks so who am I to judge?

[Ginsu Victim]

So a guy "likes" his sister, he gets mad & makes a guy "like" his very own daughter.....then he, the bad guy "dislikes" himself.

How about marking those spoilers? (I've seen it, but you would've just ruined it for me if I hadn't)

[Gatsu]

I'm a fan of the weirder movies. Big fan of alot of Korean flicks as well. The Old Boy movie is part of the "Revenge Trilogy".

the other two flicks are "Sympathy for Mr. Vengeance" and "Lady Vengeance". All 3 very good movies.

[pinballwizard79]

Sorry Ginsu but think of the positives.....maybe my post saved at least one person from watching that ridiculous movie.

The only time in my entire life I was ever pissed at myself for watching a movie was after finishing "Old Boy".

Now I know the drill "Western film is so passe, you just don't appreciate art....blah blah blah".

Whatev, don't get mad guys.....I still like you all,

I just had to be opinionated for a second, you guys can make fun of me for a little bit now 

[pinballwizard79]

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