Author Topic: Console Joysticks in the Works. - NEW PHOTOS!! UPDATED 2/14/09! (Read 19612 times)

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #80 on:** December 16, 2008, 04:24:28 pm »

Yeah, the problem I ran into is that the MadCatz trigger pots are cheaply constructed, and I broke a couple of them setting them to neutral...

Gatsu · « **Reply #81 on:** December 17, 2008, 09:16:17 am »

I used 4.7k Ohm resistors.

I did the same thing with the first controller. Its a pain in the neck. So I just stuck to using the 4 face buttons and the 2 bumpers, leaving the triggers alone.

Gatsu · « **Reply #82 on:** December 17, 2008, 09:25:07 am »

Another brief update.

I had the stick painted....looking pretty and perfect. Then I said, well some clear coat enamel will protect the paint job.

The paintjob had set for 24 hours so it was good to go right. So I lightly dust the top of the stick with the enamel. I let it sit for 30 or so minutes....come back to it...and the enamel had begun to web up and pull the paint straight off of the wood.

3 days worth of painting ruined.

What can I do to avoid this show stopper in the future? I've got the case sanded down to the wood again and am gonna start painting again this evening. But when it comes to finishing it up, should I forget the enamel and use something else?
I want a nice gloss finish.

traycerb · « **Reply #83 on:** December 17, 2008, 10:18:45 am »

man gatsu u've got the worst luck.

I don't know much about painting, but one of the apartment design blogs i read has people doing diy furniture painting and they try high gloss finishes now and then. see http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ny/jan-jumpstart-2008-east/east-18-operation-loo-042191. look at the last pic. super high gloss, but to get it, the guy waited a week(!) between paint and polyurethane, and then put on 4-5(!) coats of polyurethane. alternatively this guy http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/chicago/shelving-storage/tylers-ikea-traby-credenza-hack-047487 used 7-8 coats of high gloss, but it's more of a factory-smooth finish than a high gloss. sorry don't know much more. maybe people on a furniture-building site would be more knowledgable

one more question: what is the distance between the bottom-of-the-bat-top to the top-of-the-CP? What way of mounting would maximize the amount of shaft available? Does it match the length of the shaft on your Happ builds?

Gatsu · « **Reply #84 on:** December 17, 2008, 04:18:31 pm »

I'll get you an exact measurement this evening. But basically I routered a square just deep enough on the top of the case, so the JLF mounting plate would be flush. But there was plenty of room for movement.

the trickiest parts to work with were the buttons. If you get the screw in kind, the wood will require alot of extra routering so you can actually screw the mounting pieces in properly.

thanks for the links. I'll give that a try. Just letting it sit a few days once its painted, then going with the enamel. I think I figured out my problem though. I didn't use the same brand...which I didn't notice till just now. I used all Krylon paint....but Rustoleum enamel. Thats probably why.

So I've gotta make sure to keep all the same brand paints around from now on. Yet another trip to the hard ware store.

Gatsu · « **Reply #85 on:** December 28, 2008, 07:00:18 pm »

Joystick #3 finished! Took a little too long to put this one together....but that was because of all the frigging paint issues.
But its done and looking nice. And it works like butter.

All Sanwa parts, artwork provided by customer. Hacked madcatz 360 controller.

Im sure the customer will enjoy this one.

Lemme know what you all think.

Ginsu Victim · « **Reply #86 on:** December 29, 2008, 12:52:36 am »

Quote from: Gatsu on December 28, 2008, 07:00:18 pm

Joystick #3 finished!
Lemme know what you all think.

Beautiful as always! Great work!

Gatsu · « **Reply #87 on:** December 29, 2008, 01:20:05 am »

glad you dig it. I learned alot from this stick....mainly in the painting department. lol.

I'm gonna try Rustoleum brand paint on the next stick and see if I have better results. Krylon is good....but I had alot of issues with it this go round.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #88 on:** December 29, 2008, 09:51:21 am »

Glad to see you got this one finished. However next time you might want to paint the bottom panel too.

TTFN

Gatsu · « **Reply #89 on:** December 29, 2008, 01:10:56 pm »

nah. I figured since it is the bottom and its rarely looked at, leaving that panel its original color was ok. I also didn't wanna risk another painting mishap and another day or two wasted on fixing something.

Got another stick Im working on now. Its a donation stick for an older gamer site called 2old2play.com. I'll post pics of it once I get more done.

I've got the case assembled and ready, just gotta paint it and order the stick & buttons.

Gatsu · « **Reply #90 on:** January 06, 2009, 09:40:00 am »

got another order. just came in last night for another Godhand style.

I'll post updates and photos as things progress.

Gatsu · « **Reply #91 on:** January 18, 2009, 10:08:45 pm »

Alright. Heres a bit of an update.

Got all the cases glued together, just gotta finish routering and drilling all the button holes for the Godhand and new Overlord style stick (thanks to somunny's SSFIITurbo HD stick idea), and prep them to paint.

I've got some polyurethane spray I'm gonna try on some test pieces first to see how well that works to seal the MDF for painting. If that doesn't work, I'm not sure what else I can do. Those edges are whats killing me.

Anyway. Here he some photos:

- Gat

Kaytrim · « **Reply #92 on:** January 19, 2009, 10:08:43 am »

Looks like you are getting this build thing down to a science.

Keep it up buddy and you'll be taking orders like I am. (see my blog)

TTFN
Michael

Gatsu · « **Reply #93 on:** January 19, 2009, 10:43:51 am »

looking really good there kaytrim. my stick blogs on wordpress as well, I like there functionality and ease of use.

Thank you for the kind words. But I don't think I'd ever get to the level you and Timoe (Norris Sticks) are.

I just don't have the proper tools or funds to work on those more expensive woods. I can barely squeeze out what I can from the tools I've got and MDF. lol. Where I live inhibits me alot as well. I can't even get the right kind of laminate from the local Lowes or Home Depot.

I'm just trying to do what I can and try new things as I can afford them. Experimentation can cost substantially if you're not careful.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #94 on:** January 19, 2009, 01:46:48 pm »

Keep in mind that Tim and I have been doing this for over a year each. I read on another forum that He and his wife sold a total of 52 cases in November and December. Both of us have systems in place with our tools that make cutting and shaping the cases more of a cookie cutter process. With time and experience you could do the same.

TTFN

Michael

Gatsu · « **Reply #95 on:** January 27, 2009, 09:52:39 am »

I've decided that after I finish up these last orders, I'm gonna hang my hat up for a bit and take a break from doing custom orders. Have had some crazy things go on around home, and I feel I need to spend more time with my fiance and get some other things in order...as well as work on my own arcade cabinet.

I've probably spent more than a 40 hour work week on orders in the past 2 weeks...and thats more than I really feel I need to right now. This is something I'm just doing as a side hobby for fun. A learning experience and offering a little something that others will want.

So for now...I'm not gonna be taking any custom orders. I will however continue to build sticks and post them up in the FOR SALE section of my site as I build them. I'll probably put a few up every other week or so as I decide to work on them.

I pretty much want to put myself in a place where I can take my time and not stress about a deadline. I mess up more when I'm under the gun and I can't afford to let that go in a product that someone else is paying for.

Anyway. Once I'm done with the orders I have in, I'm taking a break.

-Gat

Kaytrim · « **Reply #96 on:** January 27, 2009, 10:10:13 am »

Welcome to my world buddy.

That is why I took a break myself last year. I have family things and house things that needed to be done. I still have to deal with pressures from work, taxes and home. Building sticks though is my escape from the real world pressures. That is why I will be offering some blank cases soon as well as my artistic series. Though I'll still take on a custom order or two. I just get a charge out of responses that I get during and after a custom build is complete.

TTFN

Michael

Gatsu · « **Reply #97 on:** January 27, 2009, 10:37:16 am »

yeah. I still enjoy the building process. I just really think that I should work in my own time frame....keep things fun and stress-free.

I'll take orders again probably in a couple of weeks. But I wanna finish my fighter cab and get some things sorted first.

Gatsu · « **Reply #98 on:** January 29, 2009, 09:48:29 am »

FINALLY got my slot cutting bit in from Ace Tools for the t-molding.

So I can finally finish up these sticks. I will have some pic this weekend to show off hopefully 4 fully-completed sticks.

I've tested a couple of different spray paints....and I've gotta say that the Krylon fusion has somewhat impressed me. I still prime the pieces, but it doesn't run like regular krylon, though it needs more to make an even coat.

Finally got my paint process fine-tuned too.

1.) Sand the crap out of the case. 220 grit or lower. I use 100 for edges.
2.) clean case of dust/dirt...etc...
3.) Kilz primer that S.O.B. let sit for 24 hours. Even, solid coats.
4.) Krylon that S.O.B., do about 3-4 light/even coats. 1 coat every 7-8 minutes. Let sit for 24 hours.
5.) Ever so lightly....I mean uber lightly sand the case with 320 grit to give the enamel a tooth.
6.) 2 light/even coats of the clear coat enamel. Let sit for 24 hours (to handle)
7.) Wax that puppy.

Not the only way to paint a case....but effective and the result is pretty.

Can't wait to show these bad-boys off when I'm done.

Gatsu · « **Reply #99 on:** January 29, 2009, 05:26:43 pm »

Need some input for parts distributors.

I mostly get my sanwa parts from Chad at Lizard-Lick, or Happ stuff from waveryder here on the forums.

Occasionally the Lizard-Lick crew run out of a part I need. I looked at the Akihabara shop and the costs are just WAY too high. Are there any other distributors for Sanwa parts in the U.S.?

opt2not · « **Reply #100 on:** January 29, 2009, 05:36:49 pm »

Hey Gatsu, how much does your sticks approximately weigh?

Gatsu · « **Reply #101 on:** January 29, 2009, 06:19:26 pm »

hmmm...I don't usually weigh them. If I remember correctly though....the godhand style one is about 8lbs. Kinda got some booty to it. But its alot of solid pieces of MDF...so thats why.

I'll have to pickup a scale this weekend.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #102 on:** January 29, 2009, 11:26:10 pm »

Quote from: Gatsu on January 29, 2009, 05:26:43 pm

Need some input for parts distributors.

I mostly get my sanwa parts from Chad at Lizard-Lick, or Happ stuff from waveryder here on the forums.

Occasionally the Lizard-Lick crew run out of a part I need. I looked at the Akihabara shop and the costs are just WAY too high. Are there any other distributors for Sanwa parts in the U.S.?

Chad is the only and best supplier of the Sanwa and Seimitsu parts in the US. This month Japan is on vacation and they are not working as hard as they usually do. Chad stocked up in December but he still got hammered with orders. More than likely the cause is Street Fighter IV coming out in a few weeks. He told me last night that he will have over 70,000 hits on his site for this month.

On your painting schedule it would be better if you waited 3-4 days between paint phases. This lets the paint cure so it can better handle the sanding. Any finish goes through two phases. The first phase is drying, this is when the solvent evaporates. This can take anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours. The second phase is curing, this takes anywhere from 2 or three days to a month. These times are dependent on weather conditions, the finish in question and how thick is the coat.

Timoe says it takes him 3 months to build and finish one of his cases. Part of that is because he takes the finish through a wet sanding for a mirror like showroom finish. You have to wait for the finish to fully cure before you try to do any wet sanding. Just to be on the safe side he waits a full month after the final coat of finish is applied before starting any wet sanding.

TTFN
Michael

Gatsu · « **Reply #103 on:** January 29, 2009, 11:45:08 pm »

Im nowhere near patient enough to wait that long for it to fully cure.

Gatsu · « **Reply #104 on:** January 30, 2009, 08:55:44 am »

1 down. 3 more to go.

Sanwa JLF stick, Seimitsu blacks. Sexy beast if you ask me.

dmworking247 · « **Reply #105 on:** February 04, 2009, 08:16:59 pm »

Wow, where are you finding (or are you drawing) this Street Fighter artwork?

Gatsu · « **Reply #106 on:** February 05, 2009, 12:36:49 am »

I usually look for a bunch of reference photos, hires scans and whatnot...then I dump it all into photoshop and editing the crap out of them. Mix and mash them all together till I get something good.

Its probably my favorite part of the whole process.

Gatsu · « **Reply #107 on:** February 05, 2009, 09:41:44 am »

Oh looky! Here's a couple more! Just one more to go.

The blue one is a donation stick I built for an art auction to support the site 2old2play.com a website for gamers 25 and up.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #108 on:** February 05, 2009, 10:13:29 am »

I am really liking the SFIV artwork you are posting buddy. Keep up the good work.

Michael

Gatsu · « **Reply #109 on:** February 05, 2009, 10:17:32 am »

those are the last customer sticks. So all the orders are done. Last one I've got has just gotta be wired up and its ready to put up for sale.

Its gonna be a Happ 8-face button layout. Larger than the others. Probably 16" wide, about 10 3/4" long, 2 3/4" deep and it'll have a USB passthrough.

If you need any artwork Kaytrim, lemme know.

Gatsu · « **Reply #110 on:** February 14, 2009, 11:55:48 pm »

drum roll please...

here's my personal SFIV stick. Inspired by somunny's SSFIITurbo HD stick he posted a few weeks ago. He was kind enough to share the dimensions and process with me so I took those and put one of my own together. I think it turned out pretty well.

Happ parts, competition joystick with standard concave buttons. USB passthrough on the back side for easier cable management. I might add a cable storage compartment for it along the bottom somehow. Not sure yet....maybe on the next stick.

Anyway. What do you guys think? It might go on sale in a few weeks. But I definitely wanna use it for SFIV's launch next week.

- Gat

Sosetsuken · « **Reply #111 on:** February 15, 2009, 05:26:00 am »

Gatsu that stick is absolutely gorgeous!

I'd take that over the Official SF4 TE Stick anyday (But have a Ball not bat

)

Great use of artwork, nice Button arrangement, and for some reason i love that theres no dustcover over joystick that allows you to see the perspex!!

Very nice work mate!

Gatsu · « **Reply #112 on:** February 15, 2009, 10:11:47 pm »

Quote from: Sosetsuken on February 15, 2009, 05:26:00 am

Gatsu that stick is absolutely gorgeous!

I'd take that over the Official SF4 TE Stick anyday (But have a Ball not bat )

Great use of artwork, nice Button arrangement, and for some reason i love that theres no dustcover over joystick that allows you to see the perspex!!

Very nice work mate!

Thanks alot for the kind words. This was oddly enough the simplest build out of all the other sticks I've done. And oddly I think this one turned out the best of all of them.

I've gotta find a thinner wood for the top piece though...the plexi sits just above the t-molding so I had to use a few screws to hold it down. But overall I'm pretty happy with it.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #113 on:** February 17, 2009, 01:16:02 pm »

Quote from: Gatsu on February 15, 2009, 10:11:47 pm

I've gotta find a thinner wood for the top piece though...the plexi sits just above the t-molding so I had to use a few screws to hold it down. But overall I'm pretty happy with it.

Look for 5/8" plywood or MDF instead of 3/4". Use a 3/4" thick piece to setup your t-slot cutter and route from the bottom side of the panel. That will setup the slot so the Plexiglas is covered by the t-molding.

Michael

Gatsu · « **Reply #114 on:** February 17, 2009, 03:09:34 pm »

thanks for the input. My lowes & home depot are bare bones with their wood selection. After Im done with my arcade cab, I'll go in and get some 5/8" mdf if they have it.

Gatsu · « **Reply #115 on:** February 26, 2009, 01:19:14 pm »

Alright boys & girls. I'm open for orders again.

I've been getting a lot of emails requesting a notice for when I start taking orders again. Its nice to see interest...so I figured I'd better jump on it before they move on to someone else.

Just gonna be working on them over the weekends now. Not during the week. And I'll only take new orders at the end of each month for the following months spots. This is so I don't run out of steam, and can spend time with my fiance when I get home from work during the week.

I've got 6 spots open for March. So shoot me a PM if you want a stick. Or check out the website for details.

http://godhandcustoms.wordpress.com

Next weekend I'm gonna cut up the rest of my current MDF board and build a few of each style stick so its a little less work once orders start coming again. And it'll give me a chance to take my time and focus on one at a time instead 3 or 4.

Now...if I could just somehow make time to work on my arcade cabinet too. lol. I'll probably split the weekend up. First half of Saturday will work on orders, get the cases glued & puttied and set to dry overnight. Then work on the cabinet. Same thing on Sunday.

That should work out alright I think. What do you guys think?

Gatsu · « **Reply #116 on:** February 28, 2009, 07:49:31 pm »

Ok..I've got a parts question.

This is for anyone whose dealt with these kinds of buttons before.

Are these the ones that will allow me to cut out a section of the artwork and fit them inside the button??

Seimitsu PS-14-KN 30mm Pushbutton
http://lizardlick.com/images/for_sale/pushbuttons/ps14kn_b.jpg

If not...which ones will allow this?

thanks.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #117 on:** March 01, 2009, 12:00:29 pm »

Those will work quite nicely. So will ps_14_gn 30mm and ps_14_dn 24mm with the clear plunger.

Michael

Gatsu · « **Reply #118 on:** March 01, 2009, 11:27:07 pm »

Cool thanks man.

Is it intuitive enough to do it? or is there a weird trick to it?

Kaytrim · « **Reply #119 on:** March 03, 2009, 12:56:45 pm »

Quote from: Gatsu on March 01, 2009, 11:27:07 pm

Cool thanks man.

Is it intuitive enough to do it? or is there a weird trick to it?

It is rather easy but instead of me trying to talk you through it there is a real step by step over on SRK. http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=132705


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