How to refinish a Coin Door?

[kelemvor]

I got a coin door with my cab but it's old and pretty beat up.  I want to repaint it so it looks nice but am not sure the best way to get the current paint off or if that's even necessary.

I'm assuming some sort of wire brush to scrape off what I can and then just a coat or two of black spray paint...  Any other advice?  Should I try to sand it somehow maybe or anything else?

Thanks.

[MrMojoZ]

According to my car painter friends you want to at least take the shiney off of it with some scotch-brite.

[kelemvor]

I do have  Dremel Tool I've used like twice.  Maybe there's an attachment for that...  hmm.

[MrMojoZ]

More than you need if you are just going to be spray painting it. Just take the top layers off, you don't need bare metal. My coindoor had some clearcoat on it, after a good rub down the paint is dull and ready to be painted over.

[heinekenlvr]

I used a wire brush attachment on my drill(available at Home Depot) to take all of the old paint off. Worked well. Primed and then repainted...looks good as new.

[quarterstringer]

Check out Peale's tutorial.
http://www.pealefamily.net/tech/newmame/coindoor/

[kelemvor]

Ah thanks.  That page looks familiar. I must have seen that sometime a loong time ago.

[SirPeale]

I need to make a part 2 to that.  I'm doing  an over/under now, and the Textured stuff isn't a match.  I'm going to try the Hammered stuff next.

[kelemvor]

Also on my coin door, the parts immediately around the eject button and around the coin return are plastic pieces.  They have a Crackled type look to them.  I guess I'll have to do some experimenting to find a good match.

[november]

Why not just wetsand them lightly until smoth and paint 'em?

[DaOld Man]

I need to make a part 2 to that.  I'm doing  an over/under now, and the Textured stuff isn't a match.  I'm going to try the Hammered stuff next.

I used some of that spray on hammered paint. Good stuff.

[kelemvor]

I need to make a part 2 to that.  I'm doing  an over/under now, and the Textured stuff isn't a match.  I'm going to try the Hammered stuff next.

I used some of that spray on hammered paint. Good stuff.

That's exactly what I just got home from buying.  We'll see how it looks.

[kelemvor]

WOW!  DAMN!

OK, I just have to highly recommend a product I just used.

Went to Menards to get something to strip the paint off the coin door.  Didn't need much so got some stuff that comes in a spray paint type bottle as it was recommended by the dude there.

It's called Zinsser Strip Fast Power Stripper. (Can't find much about it online though)

an says it strips up to 5+ layers in 10 minutes.

Well damn!  I sprayed it on my door and before I was done spraying the paint was already bubbled off.  I was in total awe.  If I had used more, the paint would have come off in sheets.  As it was I just used a razor blade (all I had handy) and just scraped it all off.

Anyway, I'll use the Hammered stuff tomorrow to repaint it so we'll see what happens.

[DeLuSioNal29]

Funny, I JUST finished restoring my over/under coin doors that I picked up for $20 each.  The paint on them was flaking off and they were COMPLETELY RUSTED (I'm talking all brown).  Here are the steps that I took:

-  Removed all the hardware from the metal door.  (by the way, the front pieces on mine are metal.  Some are plastic, but metal is preferred since they are easy to sand down).
-  I bought a "Strip Disc" attachment for my drill.  It's what they use on cars for bodywork.  It was $5.97 at Home Depot.  That did wonders on the paint and completely removed the rust.  In the tight edges, I used my Dremmel tool with a wire brush bit and then with a sanding bit.  But if you don't have a Dremmel, you can sand it by hand with 500 grit sandpaper.  (P.S.  The one time that you don't wear gloves is when you accidentally sand your hand for that one split second that lasts for weeks - so wear gloves, goggles and breathe mask for the rust!)
-  Once all the rust was removed, I took sandpaper to it and sanded it by hand all around for good measure. (some parts I sanded down to bare metal, others I didn't, I just made sure the paint wasn't loose or shiny anywhere)
-  Then I washed them in the sink with soap and water to remove all the dust from sanding.  I thoroughly dried them with a paper towel, then I let them dry for a few hours just in case.  (You don't want to paint them with a wet spot somewhere).
-  I used Rustoleum's "Hammered" spray paint in black. (#7215830 - http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=29 ).  What a perfect finish!  Looks just like a real coin door should.  It also hides any imperfections!
-  I painted it, let it dry for 4 hours, painted it again, another 4 hours, final coat, let it dry for a couple of days.
-  No need to prime with the Rustoleum brand (it says on the bottle it is unnecessary).  It also can be sprayed directly over rust, so don't worry if you miss a couple of spots with your sandpaper. 

** Also, I sanded (by hand) the inside of the coin return and spray painted that black too.  At first I didn't but then I realized when you go to grab your coin after it's been returned, it looks great until you reach in and open the slot to reveal the ugly metal.  So I had to take the whole thing apart to paint it.  Just figured I'd save you some trouble.

Here are some pics of my final product (I forgot to take a "before" pic when it was rusted... sorry! 

I also included a pic of the sanding bit and the paint can.

[kelemvor]

OK, just got done putting my door back together so I snapped a pic.

Door and frame got stripped, then painted with the Hammered finish stuff others have used.  Did 2 coats.  Plastic  push piece for the coin ejector are original and pretty scratched up.  May look to replace those later.

Lock is new as the one that came with it had no key.

[Kevin Mullins]

I've always used aerosol bedliner for trucks and then a light mist of either clear gloss or gloss black just to add a sheen to it.

If you try this method just remember.... a little goes a loooong way.
You can coat a coin door in just a few seconds and it can get thick on ya.

[cmoses]

In the process of refinishing my coin door as well.  I got some of the Rustoleum black hammered.  Stripped my door and painted it last night.  Love the texture, but not the finish.  Seemed to be to glossy for me.  Was much shinnier than the original from my cab.  I had purchased some satin black for a the marquee holder and glass holders which I also painted.  I went over the hammered with the satin very lightly.  Covered the shine, but kept the texture.  Looks very good and much closer to the original.

Just my 2 cents.

[RayB]

It's amazing what a coat of fresh paint does, so just sand down so there's good adhesion of the new paint, no rust, then tape up parts you don't want painted, and then finally many many light coats of Tremclad Semi-Gloss rust paint (or Rustoleum). Bake in the sun, or in the oven as last step.

[Organic Jerk]

I hate to jump into an old thread... but bake?  What does the baking do that letting it sit out in room temp will not do?

Do you literally mean to cook the painted coin door into the same oven I cook my food in?  Seems dangerous.

[SirPeale]

You don't want to do it at high temperatures, about 150 degrees.  It helps to speed curing and drying of the paint.

And no...you don't want to do it in an oven you're going to prepare food in - though I do anyway.

[Ken Layton]

Yes I stick painted stuff in the oven too. 150 degress for 30 to 45 minutes. Yes it's also the same oven I cook food in.

[Kevin Mullins]

A little butter adds to the finish quite nicely as well. 

[Organic Jerk]

How long after a fresh coat would you stick it in the oven?   Maybe 2 hours to give it a "to the touch" dry?

[Ken Layton]

I stick it in the oven immediately after painting.

[Organic Jerk]

wel... it's done.  Not very sure of myself, I put about 1 1/2 cans of black hammered paint on the thing and have "baked" it 3 times....

It's still a bit soft on the outside... I'm leaving it alone now, lol.

[Kevin Mullins]

That's a lot of paint....... did you do it in light coats or did you use all that paint in one shot.
Heavy coats tend to stay 'tacky" and soft for a looooong time. (if they ever actually cure at all)