Routing joy area question

[GAtekwriter]

I posted this in Woodworking section, but no responses, so I'm hoping someone might have a suggestion:

I've decided that I'm going to mount my 2 U360s underneath the CP instead of flush mounting the plate on top.  I'm wondering if there are any disadvantages to routing out the rectangular area slightly larger than the plate requires?  As I understand it, routing out the area will require me to chisel out the corners and I'm just wondering why I shouldn't just expand the area a bit...

In this link:  http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=73599.msg760947#msg760947   the builder has the plate fitting nice and tight, but if I use t-nuts to secure the joy I wouldn't think a larger rectangular area would matter.  I've already drilled the holes on the top of the CP so all I need to do at this point would be to countersink a bit to allow for the t-nuts...

Thanks,

Jim

[thatitalian]

I shouldn't think that this would present a problem. The joy will be secure with the t-nuts.

How are you countersinking the hole for the t-nut? With a flat bit?

Have you considered top mounting the joy?

[GAtekwriter]

I'm still torn between top mount and bottom mount.  Now I'm leaning towards top.  I've just got to review some bookmarked forum discussions that show how to route out the areas properly - if I top mount, I can't route a larger area because the overlay won't have anything underneath those areas to support it (I'll be covering it all with Lexan, but I imagine over time the overlay will "depress" into any void area underneath it).

I've got this week to figure it out - next weekend is do-time.

Jim

[u_rebelscum]

For bottom mounting, nothing's wrong too wrong about routing bigger than the plate, except strength.  Thinner is weaker, and the area over routed without the metal plate will be the weak point (area).

If you don't route too thin, though, it won't matter.  Assuming MDF/MDO/partical board, leaving 5/8" is more than enough, 1/2" is probably fine, but 3/8" might not stand up to heavy play.

[shmokes]

My perfect 360s are bottom mounted with countersunk carriage bolts so everything up top is clean and flush.  Like you, I didn't see any point in being exact, since I was bottom mounting.  I just drew the square and freehanded the router to make the recesses.  There's a good 1/8" space around the joysticks, up to 1/4" in a couple of places.  Doesn't cause any problems at all and looks absolutely perfect from up top.  Doesn't matter how pretty it is down below.

[scotthh]

The corners of the joystick plate are rounded, not squared. You won't have to chisel out the corners of your routed material. There's no need to make the hole bigger than the joystick plate.

[ivwshane]

The corners of the joystick plate are rounded, not squared. You won't have to chisel out the corners of your routed material. There's no need to make the hole bigger than the joystick plate.

That depends on how big your bit is. I just did my u360's and I bottom mounted them, I used a 3/4 bit and it required me either to chisel the corners or go bigger. I chose to go slightly bigger since it looked neater and allowed me to make sure my joysticks were straight.

[GAtekwriter]

Can anyone who has mounted U360s under comment on the length of the shafts?  Are the standard shafts long enough or should I go with the longer version?

Jim

[ivwshane]

I don't know if these are any help:

[Turnarcades]

I hate short sticks as they feel cumbersome and depending on how you play, make for some knuckle-scraping. I'd go for rough under-panel routing anytime. If you're using MDF, strength shouldn't be an issue as it's toughdown as low as 1/8", particularly if it's just a small area in the middle of an otherwise thick panel.

[EwJ]

... if I top mount, I can't route a larger area because the overlay won't have anything underneath those areas to support it (I'll be covering it all with Lexan, but I imagine over time the overlay will "depress" into any void area underneath it).

If you get your overlay laminated, you could probably 'over-route' the area quite a bit without worrying about saggy artwork that leaks.

[ivwshane]

I hate short sticks as they feel cumbersome and depending on how you play, make for some knuckle-scraping. I'd go for rough under-panel routing anytime. If you're using MDF, strength shouldn't be an issue as it's toughdown as low as 1/8", particularly if it's just a small area in the middle of an otherwise thick panel.

What do you consider a short stick?

[GAtekwriter]

ivwshane,

Thanks for the pictures - they do help, but are those the standard shaft or long versions?

Thanks!

Jim

[ivwshane]

They are the standard shafts. Do they look too short to you?

[Turnarcades]

I hate short sticks as they feel cumbersome and depending on how you play, make for some knuckle-scraping. I'd go for rough under-panel routing anytime. If you're using MDF, strength shouldn't be an issue as it's toughdown as low as 1/8", particularly if it's just a small area in the middle of an otherwise thick panel.

What do you consider a short stick?

Not really a question of length, but having the 'pivot point' (the point where the shaft sits in the housing) too far below the surface of the panel feels unnatural to me.

[GAtekwriter]

They don't actually, but Turnarcade brings up a good point - if the pivot point is too far below the surface, the drilled hole will prevent complete movement - have you had that issue?

Jim

[ivwshane]

They don't actually, but Turnarcade brings up a good point - if the pivot point is too far below the surface, the drilled hole will prevent complete movement - have you had that issue?

Jim

Nope, it's not even close to to hitting the sides.

[thatitalian]

On my first CP I had magstick plus joys bottom mounted (no recess routing) and then drilled a standard button hole for the joy and they don't come close to touching. However, they do have a noticeable shorter throw (unless you use the round restrictors, which I will be using on my U360's). To be fair though, they do feel a little short. They have the standard oval top but I then changed to the ball top and could feel the difference, not in a good way.

This time round I will be going for top mounted flush!

You could bottom mount and then use longer shaft or bottom mount with a recess (still could use longer shaft if you wanted). As for the slight gap for the recess if you mount underneath I am sure that it will not effect your gameplay! Unless you are taking a hammer to your CP, and with your sweet machine, I very much doubt you will be!!!

Another option is filling the gap! I believe you US guys use Bondo (I hate you guys, we UK guys can't get that over here!) but then you can't swap your joys out in the future and you could damage your joy in the process!!!