which glue should i use to hold the tmolding in place?

[clickhea]

one side of my cabinet came out perfect and there is no need for glue, however i wasnt as lucky with the other side.

its a bit too wide and the tmolding doesnt stick in place.

i tried crazy glue, its not working out so well.. any other ideas? i dont wanna use nails

[somunny]

Hot glue gun should do the trick.

[psychotech]

Well, don't really know what is crazy glue, but still..

Hot glue? No way! Do NOT even try that solution if you want it to last!

Done two (three but Tomatocade doesn't count..) small cabs with 16mm T-molding attaching the molding with glue instead of...

I'm using (high quality ?) contact glue on my cabs. Works like a charm

Just apply the stuff on both surfaces ..wait about 20 to 25 minutes ..attach the t-molding to the MDF and you're done. Won't come off without a hammer or a crowbar...

Actually, Bison Tix (?) is what I've been using.. ( http://www.bison.net/US/en/index.do ). Something similar should work awesomely.

Good luck 

EDIT:

PS. Some basic info on contact glue..: http://www.bison.net/upload/af993e0fc2c7dd2dc07ba2.pdf

[ediblegod]

Crazy glue is Super glue.... definitely not a glue for such an application.

Contact Cement is the way to go for sure. There is a lot of them out there, I'd recommend Titebond's Neoprene Plus if you can find it.
There's a few contact cement spray adhesives out there too. Just use the method psychotech explained.

[fjl]

I messed up a t-mold section of the contol panel I was doing. Unlike your problem it wasn't too wide, it was too low so adding the t-molding didn't fit perfectly. I simply refilled the area with bondo and re-routed it. It worked. You can try the same.

[danny_galaga]

i used two part epoxy on the tight areas. works well. the glue doesnt actually stick to the t-molding, but once it sets it 'locks' the the t-molding spine in place. i used 5 minute araldite, holding the t-molding in place (a tedious job for some but im an aeromodeller from way back-plenty of 'holding it in place unitl it dries' experience  )

[CheffoJeffo]

I'm 100% with somunny on this.

This issue comes up all the time when restoring old cabs and most people I know use hot glue -- it's clean, it's easy and you can pull the t-molding out if/when you need to.

If you ding a corner or something and need to do some body work, having t-molding that won't come out without a hammer or crowbar isn't a benefit -- it's a total disaster.

My $.02

EDIT: For grammar

[somunny]

I'm using (high quality ?) contact glue on my cabs. Works like a charm

Why are you using this method on all your cabinets?  I would think that the t-molding should fit securely without using any adhesive at all. 

I had to use a little hot glue once to get some t-mold to stick in an area that I had bunged up with the slot cutter.  It's for f-ups not general assembly.  Normally, I just pound it in with a rubber mallet. 

[Stub]

Or I used maple veneer. Not as authentic, but I love the clean look.

[ideft]

I used "no more nails", applied it with a caulking gun, which was great for getting in those slots.  Plus clean-up was easy, just a wet rag and that was it.  The t-moulding also comes off clean once you get a piece started(if you desire to rip it off again).  The only drawback it that you have to keep pressure on it when it is drying, but I was doing it while it was cold out so my drying times were a little longer.  But I would use it again.....hopefully I will never have too.

[psychotech]

Why not?

I have a router and quite a few bits ..but not the slot-cutting one No real reason to buy one at the moment.

Well, 87,54% of the fun is in designing/hacking/building .. Might even play the end products occasionally

And come on, all my cabinets (those shown on arcadecontrols.com) means two bartops so far.. Bombjack & Jukeball/pinbox..?

"If you ding a corner or something and need to do some body work.."

Won't be a problem as that won't happen

 

[CheffoJeffo]

"If you ding a corner or something and need to do some body work.."

Won't be a problem as that won't happen

For a little bartop that's probably true, but it might an issue for folks dealing with full-(and over-)sized cabs ... and if they follow your "stuck on forever" advice, then they'll be hosed, and the 87.54% designing/hacking/building factor won't seem so nearly so cool.

[psychotech]

 

CheffoJeffo, you're so right.

For a full size upright I'd use a router and no contact cement too, probably..

For an oversized cabinet? No glue needed, just gasoline

Flight BWA423B to ..