Method to Disassemble

[atomaka]

Hey all!

I'm finally beginning to build my first cabinet, but I have run into a semi-large dilema.   Basically, I need the cabinet to be able to be disassembled and reassembled.  I live on the third floor of a dorm without an elevator while attending school and it isn't feasable to carry the entire cabinet up the stairs while put together (even after taking out the miscellaneous trays for computer, monitor, etc instide) as I found out while helping a friend get his into his room.

If anyone has done something like how to make it be able to come apart and go back together many times somewhat easily, I would be glad to hear them.

I would appreciate any responses that could help lead to a success of this

Thank you for your time

[Tiger-Heli]

machine screws and T-nuts maybe . . .

Just the first thing that comes to mind?

I've never tried this, hopefully someone with more experience will respond.

[hyiu]

if I didn't remember wrong... there are a few plans (maybe free... maybe for sale...) that have 2 piece cabinets...

for those cabinets... the top half is "screwed in".... if you do minor modifications and use nuts and bolts.... you should be able to build a cab that can separate into 2 piece with (maybe 8 screws ....)

well.... I don't have the plans myself.... but look around...

1 thing.... if you're willing to pay for the cab plan....
maybe you can try cyberpunk's plan... his is more or less 2 pieces..... (again... I don't have that plan... and have not dealt with him before...) but up to what I hear, he is giving good customer service to his customers....

good luck....

[atomaka]

machine screws and T-nuts maybe . . .

Just the first thing that comes to mind?

I've never tried this, hopefully someone with more experience will respond.

Do you think you could explain a little bit here?  I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean.

And I would like to avoid payinf for plans to do this.  Thanks for the suggestion though. I may have to look into it if it comes down to it.

I came up with one idea, but I don't think it will work out to well.  It involves  hanger bolts (basically a half screw, half bolt) and L-brackets mounted at several places along the arcade.  This method would allow all sides to come apart, but I ran into a couple problems.

1) I am using 3/4" MDF for my arcade.  I was told that putting a 1/4" screw into the edge of it would most likely split the wood.  Can anyone confirm or say other wise?
2) Because of #1, I can't find the correct size hanger bolt that I would need. Since it would have to be drilled into the side and not the edge, the screw portion would have to be under 3/4" (I was thinking 5/8" for the screw portion) meaning a 10/8" (or 1 and 1/4") hanger bolt.  The smallest hanger bolt I could find was one that was 2".  If anyone knows if it's possible to find smaller hanger bolts that would be great
3) I'm not sure 5/8" screwed into the wood is enough to soldly hold the arcade in place.  I was intending on putting these brackets in every foot on the arcade.

Thanks for the ideas guys.  I really appreciate it!

[hyiu]

hmmm.. let me try to clarify...

look at the cab in this thread....
http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=7414

now... I donno if that guy paid for the plans....
but I guess just looking at the pic is not illegal.....

you see the top part ??.... is wider... and my guess is...
if you do it right... you can have it sitting on top with a few bolts / nuts.... and it should stay in place....

then your cab basically can separate into 2 pieces when needed.....

my experience with MDF is limited....
but my guess is.... if you're going to screw and unscrew and screw and unscrew.... you should avoid screwing right into the wood....

I don't think you should screw into the edge of MDF.... although if you use a correct size pilot hole, and put glue along the joint.... you might be able to do it....

you should be able to avoid screwing on the edge by changing the way you joint easily....

hope it helps... good luck...
 

[atomaka]

hyiu:  Wow, that's a great idea. I never thought of splitting the cabinet in half like that.  The pieces are still kind of bulky, but it makes it much lighter for carrying up the stairs, and it's much easier (and a less costly) than the hanger bolt method)

Thanks a lot for the suggestion. I'll have to look around and see if I can find any people willing to share plans for something like this (or just sit down and do it myself)

[Tiger-Heli]

machine screws and T-nuts maybe . . .

Just the first thing that comes to mind?

I've never tried this, hopefully someone with more experience will respond.

Do you think you could explain a little bit here?  I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean.

T-nuts are those things that come with particle board furniture from Wal-Mart, basically an internally threaded shaft with a washer on the end and spikes on the end of the washer.

A picture's worth a thousand words - See here - http://www.stafast.com/products/tnuts.html

Basically, you drill a hole, pound the T-nut in, and now you have a place where you can attach the fastener pretty much blind.  And since it's a threaded insert and a machine screw, you aren't tearing up the wood when you take it apart.

I was thinking a 2x4 frame which the T-nut goes into, and thru-bolts to hold the MDF to that.

FWIW

[AlanS17]

All in all, I'm just not so sure an arcade machine in a dorm room is worth the effort. I lived in one for 2 years. I needed every inch and living on thr 3rd floor made moving hard enough.

[atomaka]

All in all, I'm just not so sure an arcade machine in a dorm room is worth the effort. I lived in one for 2 years. I needed every inch and living on thr 3rd floor made moving hard enough.

haha, you have no idea what space restrictions are until you've lived in the room I did last year  I ended up doubled in a single room. It didn't work out too well.

At any rate, I'm not too worried about moving stuff.  Weight isn't a huge problem.  It's just the awkward shape of the cabinet that kills the idea of carrying it up the stairs.  I think the two piecec method is probably the best way to go. If anyone has suggestions on where to go from here, please feel free to share

Thanks a lot for the picture Tiger-Heli.  Definitely the best way of showing something

[shmokes]

Here's an idea that someone suggested to me once...maybe Howard Casto.

It's a terrible drawing (I made it), but it'll give the idea.  It would work best, I think, if you were going to laminate your sides, but countersink a bolt into the side so it is flush (and laminate can go over it) and secure it on the other side, though a frame, with a wing nut.

This design will allow you to carry it up in about twenty pieces and assemble/disassemble relatively quickly.

[GSXRMovistar]

hmmm.. let me try to clarify...

look at the cab in this thread....
http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=7414

now... I donno if that guy paid for the plans....
but I guess just looking at the pic is not illegal.....

I haven't paid for anything, my cabinet was designed from scratch.  I'm still finishing off my design but once complete it will consist of three sections; top (containing the monitor), lower (containing the pc) and the third is the control panel (already built).  Each of these three sections will be connected by large wingnuts/bolts. This will allow me to split it up when I need to move it.

 

[OSCAR]

I made a true two-piece cabinet which will disassemble.  In fact the top piece could literally sit on a countertop and be played without the bottom piece, but I would have to relocate all the "guts" (power supplies, motherboard, hard drive, amp, etc.) to the top unit under the monitor shelf.  I didn't really set my cab up to be played while separated, but it could have been done that way.  I have the top and bottom peices connected with angle brackets and t-nuts w/ screws.

I added some new pics and the PDF plans of my cabinet to www.oscarcontrols.com/unnamed.  When I get the AutoCAD drawings cleaned up a bit, I will add those, too.

[atomaka]

Oscar - Interesting implementation.  I'm not so sure the extra large top is my style though.  I kind of like Lusid's thinness.  I've got a copy of your plans though, and it's given me enough ideas that I think I can pull off the look I want after GSXRMovistar and I discuss it a little.  Thanks a lot for the plans and post.

[OSCAR]

Oscar - Interesting implementation.  I'm not so sure the extra large top is my style though.  I kind of like Lusid's thinness.  I've got a copy of your plans though, and it's given me enough ideas that I think I can pull off the look I want after GSXRMovistar and I discuss it a little.  Thanks a lot for the plans and post.

You're welcome, I hope you find the plans somewhat useful!  

My cabinet is a bit deceiving, though.  It's not as large as you may think.  Here's what it looks like with the Lusid cab outline overlayed on it:  

http://www.oscarcontrols.com/unnamed/images/gotham-lusid.gif

[rampy]

Isn't frosty's cab a two piecer (AND rotable CP!)

I'll have to check the project announcemtn forum for linkage...  i'm pretty sure that was one of his requirements when he built it.... (but i could be confuse)

rampy

EDIT link to frostillicus' cab

[1UP]

Heheh, hey Oscar, can you fit that thing in a car?  That would be super cool...

[OSCAR]

It fit in the back of my Blazer in 2 pieces, that's how I got it to my house.    

[1UP]

It fit in the back of my Blazer in 2 pieces, that's how I got it to my house.    

Nice!  Every time I work at a new place, I eventually bring up my cab during some game-related conversation, and I've been wanting to build a portable cab that I can show off at work (and make lunch time much more fun!)  I'd been considering a cocktail design with a removable table-top, but maybe this is the way...  

[Frostillicus]

Isn't frosty's cab a two piecer (AND rotable CP!)

I'll have to check the project announcemtn forum for linkage...  i'm pretty sure that was one of his requirements when he built it.... (but i could be confuse)

rampy

EDIT link to frostillicus' cab

Yeah I needed something in 2 pieces for easy moving (I move a lot).  But now I've put casters on the thing so I guess I could just wheel it to the elevator    But it's nice to have options.  I haven't printed the marquee yet so here is a link to the last 3d render of it. PICTURE

[Pixelhugger]

This may be a bit late to post, but from my experience working with MDF, screws would be a BEEEEG mistake. I'm not sure how long it would take before they would loosen up and the cab would wobble, but I can tell you that after a few assemblies/disassemblies the holes will be pretty much stripped. I paneled my nursery wall a while ago with MDF (yes painted  ) leaving a panel screwed in at the top for access to the attic. After a few removals, the screw holes in the MDF panel are about as smooth as a drinking straw. The panel wouldn't hold at all now, were it not for the 2x4 stud behind it which the screws can bite into. Ironically I had actually considered a reverse orientation of the bolt arrangement Shmokes just posted, but for the small number of times I need to access the attic crawlspace-decided it was overkill. I think it would work well for your application tho. I would add that you might be better off using washers and hex nuts instead of wing nuts however. This would allow you to get a matching socket for your drill and power bolt thru the assembly/disassembly. Obviously this would A) save you HUGE amounts of time, B) allow you to tighten the sweet bejeezus out of the nuts - MUCH more so than by hand, and C) save your fingers from collegiate onset arthritis. (I'm guessing you won't get much gameplay in for a while after tightening all those nuts).  Just my 2 cents.

I built about 50 linear feet of fence this way for my garden - countersinking all the bolts - and it's purty damn solid- holding 6 foot spans of clear heart redwood.

Oh BTW- you may also consider using piano hinges along one edge of some panels so you can fold/collapse at least part of it. Much, much stronger than a few bolts and an easier assembly/disassembly process besides.  

[atomaka]

Oscar - I guess it's just the small base that makes it look awkward to me.

Frostillicus  - Do you have plans for yours available?  I'm looking to gather as much information as I can before getting into the planning.  It's always better to learn from others' mistakes rather than your own

Pixelhugger - Yeah, that's pretty much the reponse I got while asking at Home Depot and Lowe's.  Thanks for the heads up though.  I'm looking into the top and bottom thing.  Much less putting together and I think it will be sturdier.  With all the different panels coming apart, it may be lighter to carry, but much more work to get together.

Thanks all for the tips/ideas/everything!

[GearHead]

I'm working on pretty much the same thing and here's what I'm thinking of doing.  

I'm planning on building the top and bottom sections as two separate units, the cab will look like the one GSXRMovistar posted.  Both will have MDF panels glued and screwed to full frames made of 2x4's and 2x2's. Inside the frames would be fastened together with bolts or screws.  Bolts and nuts would attach the top unit and bottom units' frames together.  I could disassemble the two halves to move it or if necessary take apart the entire cabinet without having to screw/unscrew into MDF.  The bolts attaching the frame together would be the only fasteners I'd have to deal with.

I wonder if IKEA would be interested in getting into building cabinets?

[paigeoliver]

For all the trouble you would go through making a cabinet that comes apart, it would just be easier to make (or buy) a standard sized 19" cabinet and drag the thing up the darn steps. It isn't THAT bad lugging a cabinet up the steps. I have done it plenty of times. (Sometimes even by myself, and sometimes 10 cabinets in one day). It won't be too heavy if you take out the monitor and computer.

A few years ago we moved several cabinets into my old house through the second story window because the stairwell was only 26" wide and had a 90 degree turn. Took all the guts out and pulled them up with rope, and then in through the window.

Or even better, get a mini. I have yet to see a stairway that two people could't get a mini up. Or get a cocktail.

[atomaka]

paigeoliver - The problem with the way the stairs are at school (I'm in an older dorm), the cabinet has to be dragged up and down.  I want my cab to be nice looking, and when I helped my friend get his down, it destroyed the back side of in terms of paint and minimal wood damage.  The point of going through all the trouble is that it's the cabinet I want  I wouldn't spend all this money on a cocktail or mini cab since it isn't the kind of machine I want.  I like the way a standard cab looks and it's my first one (and probably only one) so I figured I would go with the one I want.

GearHead - Interesting idea.  How exactly are you getting the top and bottom halves to secure with the bolts and nuts. Is there an overlap of some sort in the frames?