New Electric ICE Trackball Ver 2 - Announcement - GroovyGameGear

[brandon]

just ordered my 3" ICE ball on Friday!    Quick question though.. The general consensus seem to be that people prefer Happ's TBs of Wico/Betson/Imperial..  but why?  what is it that makes the two different?  better bearings?  difference in the ball material/density? I can't imagine that the housing makes a difference!   In my case I also ordered new rollers and bearing from RandyT so basically I'll have a brand new Betson with an Electric Ice ball.  I'm just curiously about how its going to perform vs a Happ.

[DeLuSioNal29]

I ordered the entire 3" Electric Ice T Trackball unit from GGG.  It is actually a 3" Betson Imperial trackball that has been upgraded with the Trackball booster kit.  I love it, although keep in mind that it needs to be broken in for about 1 month.  I did this by playing 1 trackball game a day for 30 days.  Now it works great!

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=74&products_id=283

So to answer your question.  I think your trackball will work just fine.

~ DeLuSioNaL

[quarterback]

They haven't made a transmissive material that transmits visible light in only one direction.

I think they have or are close, though you'll find it in an expensive optics lab.

Link please.  Keep in mind that such at thing would be similar to a wall that you can walk through from one direction but is physically solid from the other...at the same time. 

Like a polarizer.

[brandon]

I ordered the entire 3" Electric Ice T Trackball unit from GGG.  It is actually a 3" Betson Imperial trackball that has been upgraded with the Trackball booster kit.  I love it, although keep in mind that it needs to be broken in for about 1 month.  I did this by playing 1 trackball game a day for 30 days.  Now it works great!

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=74&products_id=283

So to answer your question.  I think your trackball will work just fine.

~ DeLuSioNaL

ahh ok.. at one point I thought he was using the Happs housing for a base.. well that's good news   I guess I could always break the bearing in with a drill at high speed like Bob Roberts does

[RandyT]

Like a polarizer.

Polarizers change the lights polarization.  "Polarized" material only allows light to pass which is in the same orientation as the material.  But it does this in both directions and unprocessed light is not polarized.

RandyT

[quarterback]

Like a polarizer.

Polarizers change the lights polarization.  "Polarized" material only allows light to pass which is in the same orientation as the material.  But it does this in both directions and unprocessed light is not polarized.

Indeed. I misunderstood the use of the phrase "in only one direction" to mean acessable going North & South but not East & West.   

How about mirrored tint?

[Daniel B.]

I just got my v2 setup on saturday. Even though it took me about 3 hours to get it all mounted (I'm worthless with this kind of stuff...) It took literally all of 30 seconds to plug this thing in and it's working!!! I need to adjust the sensitivity and wire up the light, but I'm very impressed with the ball surface/weight. I'm very happy I chose this trackball. I will post pictures of the ball once I wire up the light.

Thanks again Randy!

[Ummon]

Link please.  Keep in mind that such at thing would be similar to a wall that you can walk through from one direction but is physically solid from the other...at the same time. 

RandyT

Aren't one-way mirrors getting along that route? As well, there's electron tunneling; electrons are convertible to photons. However, I'm thinking along the lines of metamaterials.

[brandon]

I think one way mirrors are only one-way because one room is dark and the other is lit

PS this has what to do with trackballs again?

[ids]

This result is a true High-ball, with the apex of the ball sitting a full inch above the panel surface and no bolt heads.

The kit with have a price of $6.95 and include 1card-stock template, 1 finishing plate, 3 finishing plate screws, 4 threaded inserts, 4 trackball mounting machine screws, a 5mm Hex Key and full instructions.  It should be available in a few days.

RandyT

This still a work in progress?  By my reckoning of days..... 

[grbgemen]

I am wondering about the above also.  sent an email but never got a response.

[ids]

I've held off submitting my order for a bunch of stuff (to save shipping$) ...well, since Feb 10 it seems.  But I guess that's the pace of this hobby.  I thought I'd have a cab built in a day, but when it came time to making specific decisions...

[brandon]

This result is a true High-ball, with the apex of the ball sitting a full inch above the panel surface and no bolt heads.

The kit with have a price of $6.95 and include 1card-stock template, 1 finishing plate, 3 finishing plate screws, 4 threaded inserts, 4 trackball mounting machine screws, a 5mm Hex Key and full instructions.  It should be available in a few days.

RandyT

This still a work in progress?  By my reckoning of days..... 

wow.. how did I miss that!  That's one "sexy" trackball

[ids]

<crickets chirp>

[brandon]

He's waiting until I THINK I have my cabinet completed...  Then he'll announce a new product and I'll have to tear my control panel apart again... sneaky Wizard!


"He walks here and there they say, as an old man hooded and cloaked...His spies slip through every net."

[ids]

lmao - sorry, something about that which caused me to unload my bladder - it was precious

[brandon]

lol...  glad you liked it

[jace055]

Can't wait - I suspect this is just what I've been looking for - a way to mount the ball higher than stock (pull the top off), and not worry about it smacking into the 3" hole I cut for it to stick out of the CP (being mounted below).

Finally got a chance to prototype the kit.  This is a bit of an improvement on that method, through the use of some specialized items.  If everything is done as shown in the documentation, then it all goes together with very little precision required at the router step.  In fact, it can be pretty sloppy and everything will still look great.

I felt a bit silly using a hand-router to do this on the table of my 4'x8' CNC, but I guess it was necessary to demonstrate how easily it can be done by hand.  It also gave me chance to show just how imprecise the router work can be without it negatively affecting this mounting method.

The camera never seems to do the lighting justice, but here's a pic (you can click it to make it larger);

This result is a true High-ball, with the apex of the ball sitting a full inch above the panel surface and no bolt heads.

The kit with have a price of $6.95 and include 1card-stock template, 1 finishing plate, 3 finishing plate screws, 4 threaded inserts, 4 trackball mounting machine screws, a 5mm Hex Key and full instructions.  It should be available in a few days.

RandyT

Why don't I see this product on the website?
Am I missing it?
I would love to order the new mount with the new trackball.

[ids]

It's not on the website because it isn't finished yet (my guess).  I'm hoping it wasn't canceled, given that the mounting kit is a recent addition.  My understanding of things is that Randy is a busy guy, and doesn't release a product until it is ready for us enthusiasts to install and take a beating to.  I've been hoping for an update, but it seems no comments on this product have come forth recently   

I don't want the traditional mounting kit, I want a real high-ball option!  RAAAAAANDEEEEEEEE!!!

[RandyT]

I don't want the traditional mounting kit, I want a real high-ball option!  RAAAAAANDEEEEEEEE!!!

My apologies for the delay.  I have all of the pictures for the write up, but haven't actually found the time to do the rest.

I will really try to get this ready over the weekend.

RandyT

[RandyT]

I missed it by almost another whole weekend, but the high-ball Install kit was added to the store yesterday.  EI-Trackball purchaser, past and present, will get it for $5.95.  All others looking to mount an Imperial TB, the price is $8.95.

Again, I apologize for it taking so long.  The documentation was the holdup, and as I wanted to be very thorough, it ended up being 23 photos and ~2100 words!  It could have been much shorter, but I wanted to make sure every possible detail would be covered.  It's very "step-by-step".

It took less time for me to do the actual original installation than it will probably take some to read the instructions   But at least the extra info is there for those who might need it.

RandyT

[brandon]

I'm guessing this replaces part of the case on the Betson right?  I can't think of any other way it could work...

[Games001]

That's one great TB mod Randy.   

I wonder how that would look with a 1/2 CP and no underside router work. 

[RandyT]

I'm guessing this replaces part of the case on the Betson right?  I can't think of any other way it could work...

That's correct.  The top of the case is not used.

I wonder how that would look with a 1/2 CP and no underside router work. 

Some router work (and some spacers) would still be necessary on a thinner panel.

RandyT

[ex_directory]

Hi all,
Just got my new v2 TB installed. I have not owned a TB before and the last time I played with one was in the arcades many many years ago so wasn't sure what to expect. My findings are thus;
- Trackball seems to spin nicely in most directions for about 1-2 secs.
- Spinning in a North Easterly direction is not smooth but the spin still lasts, it sounds like there is something in the bearing, more of a gritty sound than a smooth spin soon - if you get what I mean.
- Spinning in the easterly direction is also not smooth, in fact an aggressive spin the ball actually lifts from the rollers very briefly. Only seems to do this in this direction though.
- Spinning South has the least spin time but still > 1 sec.

Having read a post above, I see that I need to let the TB wear in for a month or so, am therefore hoping this all sounds normal for out of the box??

Read somewhere that you can soak some bearings in WD40, not sure if this is a generic approach - any experiences for the best way to run the v2 in?

[Fozzy The Bear]

Read somewhere that you can soak some bearings in WD40, not sure if this is a generic approach - any experiences for the best way to run the v2 in?

1) NEVER use WD40 to lubricate the bearings..... Clean any heavy grease out of them with it if you want, but never lubricate with it. It dries out FAST.
2) After cleaning the bearings out, lubricate with a few drops of very light machine oil.
3) Use the ball every day.
4) Re-lubricate every 3 or 4 days for about a month.
Track ball should now be run in.
After that you can lubricate it about every six months.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[ex_directory]

1) NEVER use WD40 to lubricate the bearings..... Clean any heavy grease out of them with it if you want, but never lubricate with it. It dries out FAST.
2) After cleaning the bearings out, lubricate with a few drops of very light machine oil.
3) Use the ball every day.
4) Re-lubricate every 3 or 4 days for about a month.
Track ball should now be run in.
After that you can lubricate it about every six months.

Hey Julian, thanks for this. I assume when I take the TB apart the bearings simply slide off the end of the rollers so I don't need to worry about keeping the rollers clean? Secondly, since I have WD40 I will use this to clean the bearings, once used though, how do remove the wd40 from the bearing before applying the light oil? Can it just be blown out with an off the shelf air duster can?

[Fozzy The Bear]

Hey Julian, thanks for this. I assume when I take the TB apart the bearings simply slide off the end of the rollers so I don't need to worry about keeping the rollers clean?

YUP!!!

Secondly, since I have WD40 I will use this to clean the bearings, once used though, how do remove the wd40 from the bearing before applying the light oil? Can it just be blown out with an off the shelf air duster can?

Just dry the bearing with a soft lint free cloth, most of the WD40 will soak into the cloth. Then apply the oil. You don't need to remove every trace of the WD40.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[ex_directory]

1) NEVER use WD40 to lubricate the bearings..... Clean any heavy grease out of them with it if you want, but never lubricate with it. It dries out FAST.
2) After cleaning the bearings out, lubricate with a few drops of very light machine oil.
3) Use the ball every day.
4) Re-lubricate every 3 or 4 days for about a month.
Track ball should now be run in.
After that you can lubricate it about every six months.

OK, so I did all that, even added a touch of Bob Roberts suggestion to spin the bearing in a drill (I stuck a pencil in the drill and this seemed to work quite well).

I found that after soaking in wd40 for five minutes and then cleaning, the bearings were spinning very freely, but after adding 3 drops of 3 in 1 this did slow it down quite a bit. I still have one bearing of the five that is not quite as free so I took it all apart again and did the process again this time with just 1 drop of oil. Seems to spin better now.

I did forget to mention this is a 2.25" ball so maybe the spin time will not be as good as 3" balls? Is striving for a 7 day spin time as mentioned in a recent post too much to ask? Seriously though, some of the problems from my original post have gone which I am pleased about. Now just a case of some regular oiling and hopefully can add another day! Cheers Julian 

[Havok]

Just use the damn thing and it will work itself out! I never have been a big fan of artificially breaking in mechanical devices, in some instances you are doing more harm than good and reducing the lifespan of the item...

[ex_directory]

Just use the damn thing and it will work itself out!

Sorry, but have to disagree in my case. Re my point below...

- Spinning in the easterly direction is also not smooth, in fact an aggressive spin the ball actually lifts from the rollers very briefly. Only seems to do this in this direction though.

After taking it apart and cleaning the ball up, i believe the cause of the problem was down to a glob of dried grease I found under the mini roller from the fifth bearing (the one on its own). Since this is not a moving part I am not convinced this problem would have ever gone away. However re bearings use you are probably right but I am too impatient for that 

[patrickl]

It doesn't make much sense to suffer a poorly working trackbal for months if you can simply break it in and enjoy the thing right away.

[RandyT]

Yes, it is worth mentioning that the the smaller trackball will have a different feel and spin time.  Less weight will have less momentum and allow for more vibration to be transmitted from the bearings and rollers.  Even so, breaking in the bearings is going to be important.  If you want to accelerate that part artificially, that is up to you. 

Also keep in mind that bearings used in trackballs are pretty much the same as those used in electric motors and other, far more demanding applications.  So they tend to get "broken in" or seated into their races much more quickly than they would in a trackball.  Regardless, the rollers are the items in a trackball that you really don't want to accelerate the wear on, and that's pretty much impossible to do by hand.

RandyT