Looking for pics of bottom mounted trackballs

[javeryh]

Anyone?  Is this tough to do?  I want to make the top of my CP out of birch plywood and stain it and then put a 1/8" sheet of plexiglass/lexan on top.  If I top mount it with the mounting plate there's no artwork or anything that will cover it up...   

[Avrus]

Anyone?  Is this tough to do?  I want to make the top of my CP out of birch plywood and stain it and then put a 1/8" sheet of plexiglass/lexan on top.  If I top mount it with the mounting plate there's no artwork or anything that will cover it up...   

Incorrect on the mounting plate.  You simply route out 3/32" on the top and the mounting plate sits flush.  When I have a CPO, it's going to cover all three mounting plates and all you will see is trackball.

[javeryh]

Anyone?  Is this tough to do?  I want to make the top of my CP out of birch plywood and stain it and then put a 1/8" sheet of plexiglass/lexan on top.  If I top mount it with the mounting plate there's no artwork or anything that will cover it up...   

Incorrect on the mounting plate.  You simply route out 3/32" on the top and the mounting plate sits flush.  When I have a CPO, it's going to cover all three mounting plates and all you will see is trackball.

I'm not sure I understand - if you route out for the plate you have to cover it with something.  I want the top to be stained birch plywood and I can't do that if I top mount it... I'm not using a CPO or any artwork.

[shardian]

You could use a veneer finish.

[Neverending Project]

Couldn't you flush mount the trackball from the top, then place the plywood on top of that? Basically, the plywood would be your CPO.

[Avrus]

Anyone?  Is this tough to do?  I want to make the top of my CP out of birch plywood and stain it and then put a 1/8" sheet of plexiglass/lexan on top.  If I top mount it with the mounting plate there's no artwork or anything that will cover it up...   

Incorrect on the mounting plate.  You simply route out 3/32" on the top and the mounting plate sits flush.  When I have a CPO, it's going to cover all three mounting plates and all you will see is trackball.

I'm not sure I understand - if you route out for the plate you have to cover it with something.  I want the top to be stained birch plywood and I can't do that if I top mount it... I'm not using a CPO or any artwork.

Ahhh pardon, I misunderstood.  You're correct then, if you want the top to show untouched birch then you'd have to bottom mount.

[javeryh]

You could use a veneer finish.

The thinnest piece I was able to find is 1/4" unless I special order which costs WAY too much.  I tried Home Depot, Lowe's and the local hardware store with no luck.  I'm not sure where else to try.  Also, I need to match the stain to the rest of the cabinet exactly so I'm thinking using the same plywood would be my best bet.  I'm guessing I'll cut out the through hole and then route away material underneath until it sits flush although securing it in place might present a problem.... unless anyone has any other ideas... 

I want to use 3/4" t-molding which also covers the 1/8" plexi.  I have a high-lip trackball which gives me a little more to work with...

Couldn't you flush mount the trackball from the top, then place the plywood on top of that? Basically, the plywood would be your CPO.

I can't find a piece of plywood thin enough for this to work...

[csa3d]

The router was my friend on this one.  See how I mounted my 2.25" E-Ice trackball.

Results on page three.  Hope that helps.
-csa

[shardian]

The router was my friend on this one.  See how I mounted my 2.25" E-Ice trackball.

Results on page three.  Hope that helps.
-csa

Wow, that CP is a thing of beauty.

[javeryh]

The router was my friend on this one.  See how I mounted my 2.25" E-Ice trackball.

Results on page three.  Hope that helps.
-csa

Totally sick.... and exactly the sort of thing I was looking for!  Do you think the same method will work with a 3" Happs High-Lip?  I am also worried about the 1/8" remaining material being too thin.  How is it holding up?  Thanks!!!   

[csa3d]

The router was my friend on this one.  See how I mounted my 2.25" E-Ice trackball.

Results on page three.  Hope that helps.
-csa

Totally sick.... and exactly the sort of thing I was looking for!  Do you think the same method will work with a 3" Happs High-Lip?  I am also worried about the 1/8" remaining material being too thin.  How is it holding up?  Thanks!!!   

It's holding up pretty well, considering I haven't played on it yet    I haven't hooked it up in all it's full glory..  Artwork arrives at the end of the month.. trying to finish it fully before plugging in and never looking back.. that's for another thread.

But I don't see it being an issue honestly.  Those three screws hold the case in super secure, and you really aren't putting weight on the thin piece carved out.  The top of the plastic shell rests snugly on the bottom of the thin piece, and the screws are doing all the supporting.  I'd assume my technique would also work for a 3".  You'll obviously need to change measurements. 

Also, if you are using mine as a guide, do note which way is *UP* on your trackball before mounting (metal vertical roller at bottom of screen, metal horizontal roller on right).  I cut the hole out upside down, then had to do some hacking.. where I finally ended up with a roller at the top and a roller at the left.  I'm not making that control panel a 3rd time

Hit me up if you have questions about any of that.
-csa

[ErikRuud]

My CP is built from two different layers.  Structural strength comes from a layer of 1/2 plywood.  The top surface is 1/4 cherry plywood.  For the trackball I cut a hole through the 1/2 layer for the body of the trackball.  the hole in 1/4 layer is just big enough to fit around the lip on Betson 3" trackball.

The final finish is many layers of polyurethane.

[javeryh]

The router was my friend on this one.  See how I mounted my 2.25" E-Ice trackball.

Results on page three.  Hope that helps.
-csa

Totally sick.... and exactly the sort of thing I was looking for!  Do you think the same method will work with a 3" Happs High-Lip?  I am also worried about the 1/8" remaining material being too thin.  How is it holding up?  Thanks!!!   

It's holding up pretty well, considering I haven't played on it yet    I haven't hooked it up in all it's full glory..  Artwork arrives at the end of the month.. trying to finish it fully before plugging in and never looking back.. that's for another thread.

But I don't see it being an issue honestly.  Those three screws hold the case in super secure, and you really aren't putting weight on the thin piece carved out.  The top of the plastic shell rests snugly on the bottom of the thin piece, and the screws are doing all the supporting.  I'd assume my technique would also work for a 3".  You'll obviously need to change measurements. 

Also, if you are using mine as a guide, do note which way is *UP* on your trackball before mounting (metal vertical roller at bottom of screen, metal horizontal roller on right).  I cut the hole out upside down, then had to do some hacking.. where I finally ended up with a roller at the top and a roller at the left.  I'm not making that control panel a 3rd time

Hit me up if you have questions about any of that.
-csa

Thanks for the info.  I'll probably ask a ton of questions when I start building the CP box - currently scheduled for next week either Wednesday or Thursday whenever the wife goes to visit her parents.  I want to be sure I have the trackball facing the right way!

My CP is built from two different layers.  Structural strength comes from a layer of 1/2 plywood.  The top surface is 1/4 cherry plywood.  For the trackball I cut a hole through the 1/2 layer for the body of the trackball.  the hole in 1/4 layer is just big enough to fit around the lip on Betson 3" trackball.

The final finish is many layers of polyurethane.

Awesome pics - thanks.  So your total thickness is 3/4"?  Was routing the t-molding groove a problem since it would have to be near the joint between the plywood and cherry?

[ErikRuud]

Yes, total thickness is 3/4 inch.

I didn't use T-Molding.  I edges the CP top with solid cherry.

One all of the holes were drilled the two pieces of ply were bonded together, so routing a t-molding slot shouldn't have been a problem.

[ids]

See http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=64594.msg721983#msg721983 - this is for a betson though, and has the top removed.  I think I'll be doing this style -- maybe....