Author Topic: Superb examples of CP Wiring? (Read 7987 times)

nipsmg · « **on:** January 16, 2008, 03:00:08 pm »

Ok, so i've gotten over the death of Arcadia, and am going to pick up a NFL Blitz cabinet this weekend to convert into a new Mame machine. I just don't have the time to rebuild from scratch, and I just bought a house, so I need to save where I can.

One thing I really want to do this time around is wire the CP VERY cleanly and neatly. I've seen over the years a couple of SUPERB examples of CP wiring, and I'm just wondering if anyone knows of any specific examples I could look at, and any tutorials if there are any. I'm especially interested in how to keep the wires so neat when you have to daisychain all the common grounds.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

nipsmg · « **Reply #1 on:** January 17, 2008, 03:42:47 pm »

I'm going to try to bump this one more time? Does anyone have any project to point to here?

I know there were some really great examples, I've just had trouble finding them again.

unclet · « **Reply #2 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:03:21 pm »

Anything Knievel does looks sharp:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=55789.msg548744#msg548744

abomb · « **Reply #3 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:04:37 pm »

What happened to Arcadia?

Afterburner · « **Reply #4 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:04:46 pm »

This one isn't the best I've ever seen, but it ain't bad.

unclet · « **Reply #5 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:06:36 pm »

Afterburner
You can hardly see the wiring since the pictures can not be expanded .....

leapinlew · « **Reply #6 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:09:33 pm »

That crazy fool Mountain does some awesome wiring:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=63629.0

ChadTower · « **Reply #7 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:14:55 pm »

That is highly, highly pretty. How does he have the grouped wires attached to the wood? I can't tell.

unclet · « **Reply #8 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:22:00 pm »

Looks like he used mounted tie brackets (correct name?) which are normally stuck on using the dual sided tape they come with, but it looks like he screwed them in (which is a very good idea) since they do tend to un-stick themselves over time.

You simply stick this bracket to the wood and then use a zip tie threw the loop on the bracket to secure your wires.

You can get these at your local hardware store electrical section next to the zipTies.

Dazz · « **Reply #9 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:23:48 pm »

Thank you for this thread... My cabinet died on me about 6 months ago and has been sitting idle until I was able to get a new mobo the other day. My wiring is HORRIBLE, so I am going to re-do it all and want it pretty as well. I placed an order this morning with mouser for bulk .187 connectors and looking for wiring now. Last time I used the 22ga hook up wire from Radio Shack and not too impressed with it. Looking for something better now...

Any suggestions for wires?

unclet · « **Reply #10 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:26:39 pm »

If I ever rewire a cabinet I will simply solder the wires to the switch directly. I had a couple pop off on me and had to recrimp from the under side of my control panel, and it was not real fun. Plus I am now worried whether anything else will pop off. Solder will guarantee nothing "pops off"

nipsmg · « **Reply #11 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:39:21 pm »

Wow, ok.. so this is the FIRST TIME bumping a thread worked for me. I went from 0 posts to 8 additional posts in less than 2 hours! :-D

Thank you guys for posting, that's the stuff I'm looking for.

Abomb: Arcadia died in a move a year and a half ago. It was in a uhaul, and I hit a HUGE pothole which jolted the machine enough that it sent the base flying up through the machine, ripping apart the shelves, splitting hte machine, and damaging the computer components inside.

I was living in a small apartment, and was unable to fix it and had neither the time or money to do so, so I ended up junking all but the control panel. Time for round 2.

ChadTower · « **Reply #12 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:47:48 pm »

Quote from: unclet on January 17, 2008, 04:26:39 pm

Solder will guarantee nothing "pops off"

It won't guarantee that... it very commonly pops off in pinball machines. Probably will reduce the amount of pops, but really, with properly crimped connectors you'll barely ever have any pops. One or two like you had but definitely no more.

nipsmg · « **Reply #13 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:54:27 pm »

Ok so I went through and read moutain's thread.

This is from the thread:

Quote

No, but I was an Avionics tech for 10+ years wiring corporate jets. It’s really hard to wire something less than perfect when that was the norm for so long. It really doesn’t take that much more time, it is all in the approach and planning.

If you are interested in the lacing cord, I looked online for it and found a few places that carry it. It is commonly referred to as lacing cord, lacing string, tie cord, even lacing tape.

Check out the links below if you are interested in using it.

Instructions
http://hnsa.org/doc/cabling/part5.htm

Buy it
http://www.wassco.com/walaco.html

Apparently, the black loops you see are this "lacing cord", the points where the white brackets are is where the tiedowns happened. He did this kind of thing for a living, so I guess mine won't come NEAR this neat, but I hope to approach it. I still don't understand how all of the grounds are connected together in his design. However, in Knievvel's thread, he just soldered them all together with jumpers. This could definitely work, as long as the buttons are tightened well. I may take that approach.

Hoopz · « **Reply #14 on:** January 17, 2008, 05:07:11 pm »

This thread should be labled NSFW because the wiring pics are better than porn.

DeLuSioNal29 · « **Reply #15 on:** January 17, 2008, 06:33:01 pm »

I am currently wiring my CP a unique way, which I will share in 2 weeks once it's all done. I don't want to let the cat out of the bag, but it won't really need as much tie downs as the above examples. I can't wait to take pics when it's all done to share!

~ DeLuSioNaL

mountain · « **Reply #16 on:** January 17, 2008, 08:33:37 pm »

Quote from: leapinlew on January 17, 2008, 04:09:33 pm

That crazy fool Mountain...

HEEEEEEYYYYYYY.........!? !?

I am glad you guys dig the CP. Seriously, anyone can do a clean wiring job with the right approach.

nipsmg,
Here is a quick list on how to be an Anal Retentive Wire Master

Think about how you want it to look.
Consider everything
Don't be in a hurry
Work from the buttons/joysticks out to the encoder.
Connect as many wires to to the panel as possible before beginning the routing. This
ties in with the "don't be afraid to waist wire" below. Make them longer than you think you need.
Daisy chain all grounds where possible (less wire)
Solder every connection (cleaner)
Tie up each bundle as you go. Dont wait untill you are done or it will be messy(er).
Use wire ties to manage wires during the wiring process. I tend to waist more wire ties during the install than what are actually used when completed.
Don't worry too much about which wire is which, you can always us a meter. If you don't have a meter you can use 1/2" masking tape to make 'flags' on the end of the wire for labeling.
Seperate the wiring up in groups that are going to the same spots ant tie them up early.
Don't be afraid to waist wire. Trying to save wire just creates more work
Also, if using tie downs, install them last. Once the wires are soldered and tied, they may lay different than you expected.

Hope this helps.

Organic Jerk · « **Reply #17 on:** January 17, 2008, 08:45:19 pm »

Quote from: mountain on January 17, 2008, 08:33:37 pm

Here is a quick list on how to be an Anal Retentive Wire Master

Think about how you want it to look.
Consider everything
Don't be in a hurry
Work from the buttons/joysticks out to the encoder.
Connect as many wires to to the panel as possible before beginning the routing. This
ties in with the "don't be afraid to waist wire" below. Make them longer than you think you need.
Daisy chain all grounds where possible (less wire)
Solder every connection (cleaner)
Tie up each bundle as you go. Dont wait untill you are done or it will be messy(er).
Use wire ties to manage wires during the wiring process. I tend to waist more wire ties during the install than what are actually used when completed.
Don't worry too much about which wire is which, you can always us a meter. If you don't have a meter you can use 1/2" masking tape to make 'flags' on the end of the wire for labeling.
Seperate the wiring up in groups that are going to the same spots ant tie them up early.
Don't be afraid to waist wire. Trying to save wire just creates more work
Also, if using tie downs, install them last. Once the wires are soldered and tied, they may lay different than you expected.

Hope this helps.

Aweome advice.. I bookmarked this page just for it

rackoon · « **Reply #18 on:** January 17, 2008, 09:46:34 pm »

Not to be anal, but does anybody label the wires with those little label tabs the phone company use in their hubs when there are hundreds of lines.

My three sided cocktail cab has over 30 buttons (including some shared with others) plus over 100 UV(buttons and effects) LEDs, and the 6 joysticks, two trackballs, and one spinner wiring. Oh wait, 6 fans and computer wiring and 300 watt stereo wiring plus...well you get the idea.

POINT IS, from day one I was worried about fixing problems and chasing them down if I needed, so I planned on labeling everything at the middle and end.

YEA I KNOW I NEED TO CONTRIBUTE AND POST PICS. I WILL SOON.

REGARDLESS, I would like to contribute to this thread with adding the idea of labeling your wires and posting a laminated map of your wiring on the inside of the cab.

northerngames · « **Reply #19 on:** January 17, 2008, 10:21:34 pm »

if you plan on doing the basic cp and adding the trackball and such later but dont want to rewire the whole thing over again just to get a trackball or something in make sure you keep the center open for the trackball or place's that will be needed for future upgrade's or you will find yourself rewiring it all over again.

pacmandude · « **Reply #20 on:** January 17, 2008, 10:33:59 pm »

Quote from: rackoon on January 17, 2008, 09:46:34 pm

Not to be anal, but does anybody label the wires with those little label tabs the phone company use in their hubs when there are hundreds of lines.

My three sided cocktail cab has over 30 buttons (including some shared with others) plus over 100 UV(buttons and effects) LEDs, and the 6 joysticks, two trackballs, and one spinner wiring. Oh wait, 6 fans and computer wiring and 300 watt stereo wiring plus...well you get the idea.

POINT IS, from day one I was worried about fixing problems and chasing them down if I needed, so I planned on labeling everything at the middle and end.

YEA I KNOW I NEED TO CONTRIBUTE AND POST PICS. I WILL SOON.

REGARDLESS, I would like to contribute to this thread with adding the idea of labeling your wires and posting a laminated map of your wiring on the inside of the cab.

I am currently working on wiring my first cabinet (dedicated pac-man). Because of my inexperience I label all wires to make sure I'm attaching everything where it should be. I'd hate to blow a nice board just because I made a silly mistake. I'm no authority on the subject, but I think it's well worth it and can keep you out of trouble. As you mentioned, if you have problems a few years down the road you will know exactly where all wires terminate which would greatly help with troubleshooting.

Timoe · « **Reply #21 on:** January 17, 2008, 10:42:05 pm »

My wife came up with this idea for a single player Ms-Pac desktop controller

gatordad · « **Reply #22 on:** January 18, 2008, 09:44:57 am »

Quote from: Timoe on January 17, 2008, 10:42:05 pm

My wife came up with this idea for a single player Ms-Pac desktop controller

Beautiful Job

Dazz · « **Reply #23 on:** January 18, 2008, 10:31:38 am »

How do you guys deal with the common ground and shared inputs?

Do you just daisy chain the ground to each and every button on the control panel and then run the end of the wire into the ground on the encoder?

OR

Do you have it terminate at a specific point (termination block?)? For instance after a certain number of buttons per chain? I use an I-PAC4. My Control Panel has 40 buttons, not including the 4 switches on each of the 5 joy sticks and 4 common grounds for the coin box. So that is 64 total common grounds... Not including spinner and trackball which go into an Opti-PAC.

My player 1 button 1 and player 1 button 2 have a total of 4 different buttons for this function on my control panel. Previously I just twisted the wires together and pushed them into the correct port on the encoder. This worked fine, but was really cluttered at the encoder and looked like ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.

Looking at some of these wiring jobs I only see 1 wire going in to each port on the encoder, but several shared buttons. I'm assuming there is something I can use to run multiple button wires to and then have it connect via 1 wire to the I-PAC. How the hell do you guys deal with shared buttons and the damn common ground?

mountain · « **Reply #24 on:** January 18, 2008, 11:50:40 am »

I daisy chain all shared buttons and grounds.

Dazz · « **Reply #25 on:** January 18, 2008, 12:09:44 pm »

Thanks Mountain. Would you happen to have a pic or anything that shows your daisy chain? Everything is done so beautifully I can't seem to see any of your daisy chains...

There are 2 parts in your CP that I would like to know what they are for and how you used them. I have circled these parts in RED on the image below. Could you please explain those areas? I know basic basic basic of basics of wiring.

Thanks!

Franco B · « **Reply #26 on:** January 18, 2008, 12:26:41 pm »

[Still posting on this temp account whilst I get my normal one sorted out

]

I love your wiring job Mountain, you actually inpsiped me to do as good job on mine as possible (I'm even using blue wire as I think your looks the dogs

)

I haven't got to the stage to go my main CP wiring yet but I have wire up a couple of LED Wiz enclosures (still have one to do.)

This is my attempt so far:

fixedpigs · « **Reply #27 on:** January 18, 2008, 12:31:37 pm »

amazing...

Dazz · « **Reply #28 on:** January 18, 2008, 12:36:37 pm »

Quote from: Franco B on January 18, 2008, 12:26:41 pm

[Still posting on this temp account whilst I get my normal one sorted out ]

I love your wiring job Mountain, you actually inpsiped me to do as good job on mine as possible (I'm even using blue wire as I think your looks the dogs )

I haven't got to the stage to go my main CP wiring yet but I have wire up a couple of LED Wiz enclosures (still have one to do.)

This is my attempt so far:

[IG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/LWHousing1.jpg[/img]

[IG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/LWHousing2.jpg[/img]

[IG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/LWHousing3.jpg[/img]

Wow, those are like sex... how does a setup like that work? Are those just project boxes you are using? Do you just wire the buttons and sticks to a female connector matching pin and plug it in?

mountain · « **Reply #29 on:** January 18, 2008, 01:29:56 pm »

Quote from: Franco B on January 18, 2008, 12:26:41 pm

[Still posting on this temp account whilst I get my normal one sorted out ]

I love your wiring job Mountain, you actually inpsiped me to do as good job on mine as possible (I'm even using blue wire as I think your looks the dogs )

I haven't got to the stage to go my main CP wiring yet but I have wire up a couple of LED Wiz enclosures (still have one to do.)

Thanks Franco

Those boxes and the wiring in them are amazing! Where did you locate them?

Quote from: Dazz on January 18, 2008, 12:09:44 pm

Thanks Mountain. Would you happen to have a pic or anything that shows your daisy chain? Everything is done so beautifully I can't seem to see any of your daisy chains...

There are 2 parts in your CP that I would like to know what they are for and how you used them. I have circled these parts in RED on the image below. Could you please explain those areas? I know basic basic basic of basics of wiring.

Thanks!

Dazz,

The bottom is a 9-pin D-sub disconnect with a metal backshell from Radio Shack. The other piece is just a European junction terminal for distributing 5v, 12v, and ground from my computers power supply. You can get them here.

As far as the daisy chain, at the connection point, you just wire the two wires side by side and move on to the next component you want in the circuit.

Dazz · « **Reply #30 on:** January 18, 2008, 01:46:03 pm »

Quote from: mountain on January 18, 2008, 01:29:56 pm

Quote from: Franco B on January 18, 2008, 12:26:41 pm
[Still posting on this temp account whilst I get my normal one sorted out ]

I love your wiring job Mountain, you actually inpsiped me to do as good job on mine as possible (I'm even using blue wire as I think your looks the dogs )

I haven't got to the stage to go my main CP wiring yet but I have wire up a couple of LED Wiz enclosures (still have one to do.)

Thanks Franco

Those boxes and the wiring in them are amazing! Where did you locate them?
Quote from: Dazz on January 18, 2008, 12:09:44 pm
Thanks Mountain. Would you happen to have a pic or anything that shows your daisy chain? Everything is done so beautifully I can't seem to see any of your daisy chains...

There are 2 parts in your CP that I would like to know what they are for and how you used them. I have circled these parts in RED on the image below. Could you please explain those areas? I know basic basic basic of basics of wiring.

Thanks!

Dazz,

The bottom is a 9-pin D-sub disconnect with a metal backshell from Radio Shack. The other piece is just a European junction terminal for distributing 5v, 12v, and ground from my computers power supply. You can get them here.

As far as the daisy chain, at the connection point, you just wire the two wires side by side and move on to the next component you want in the circuit.

What is the D-sub connecting to/from? I know how to wire a daisy chain, just can't figure how to make it as pretty as yours. Don't even notice it on your CP, but mine it stands out like a sore thumb.

mountain · « **Reply #31 on:** January 18, 2008, 01:55:45 pm »

This might help with the daisy chains and grounds

The D-sub connector is used for everything that connects to the CP from the cabinet. Things like:

-Ground and 5v for the trackball LEDs
-Ground from the encoder out to the admin buttons\
-Inputs from the admin buttons
-Inputs from the side pinball buttons
-Input from the shock sensor (pinball center nudge)

I think that's it.

Franco B · « **Reply #32 on:** January 18, 2008, 01:55:46 pm »

Yeah they are just blue project boxes, I bought them from Maplins in the UK but they are made in Canada by Hammond manufacturing so you should be able to get them state side. (this is there contact link if anyone wants it. http://www.hammondmfg.com/contact.htm They are available in a range of sizes and either clear, blue or IR red.

I used a Dremel to cut out the holes for the 15 pin D subs and used some M3 nuts and bolts to secure them.

I wanted the wires to go under the PCB so I made some stainless and nylon standoff to mount them which were glued to the base with Araldite.

As for wiring, the LED Wiz has 32 outputs. I'm using the top row of eight pins of each D sub for the connections to the anodes of the LEDs. There are four dubs in each box so that equals 32 pins. All of my cathodes are going to be daisy chained in groups of eight and returned to the LED Wiz.

After seeing some posts there was some concerns about sending the whole cathode current through one pin so Ive bridged four of the pins on the bottom row of the d subs together to give a greater conductive area, hopefully this should be ample. Each 4 into 1 bridge is then connected into one wire which is then connected to the ground of the LED Wiz.

I'm using fairly thick wire (0.75mm^2, about 19AWG i think) so this should be plenty thick enough too.

Yes you are correct, there is a female d-sub which connects to each male d sub which is then wired to another male d sub which is then routed to each part of the CPs (I'm building a three sided cocktail). Each part of the CP then has a female d sub that plugs into the male d sub routed from the LED Wiz's. This setup means I will be able to easily swap out CPs when I want and remove the LED Wiz's if I need to do any maintenance etc. It probably seems like over kill and in a way its also of work to save a little work later on but hey, I enjoy it

I think all in all I have about 60 15 pin d subs to wire and over 1000 solder buckets $:-\$

I hope that explains it, its probably clear as mud. If you have any questions ill do my best to help.

Oh yeah I have made a similar enclosure for my IPAC 4 but I need to redo the wiring as I'm not quite happy with it:

Orclord · « **Reply #33 on:** January 18, 2008, 02:08:54 pm »

VERY Nice clean wiring............

Just wondered if you had thought of adding a Toggle Switch to switch between the Led-Wiz 1 and 2......

Just asking......

nipsmg · « **Reply #34 on:** January 18, 2008, 02:12:30 pm »

I absolutely LOVE that project box idea. I'm so doing that with my interface boards. Wow.

Franco B · « **Reply #35 on:** January 18, 2008, 02:23:16 pm »

Quote from: Orclord on January 18, 2008, 02:08:54 pm

VERY Nice clean wiring............

Just wondered if you had thought of adding a Toggle Switch to switch between the Led-Wiz 1 and 2......

Just asking......

Ha ha! Hey Orc, where have you been hiding? (as if i don't know

)

Nah, no toggle switches on this project as yet, gotta have a couple tho surely haven't I

I haven't given up my toggle switch fascination yet tho, I made another switch panel (for my car this time) recently.

Dazz · « **Reply #36 on:** January 18, 2008, 02:51:03 pm »

Quote from: mountain on January 18, 2008, 01:55:45 pm

This might help with the daisy chains and grounds

The D-sub connector is used for everything that connects to the CP from the cabinet. Things like:

-Ground and 5v for the trackball LEDs
-Ground from the encoder out to the admin buttons\
-Inputs from the admin buttons
-Inputs from the side pinball buttons
-Input from the shock sensor (pinball center nudge)

I think that's it.

No wonder I couldn't see it in the images... excellent job. Do you ever have an issue with your buttons coming un-screwed or loose while playing? My buttons seem to loosen up, no matter how tight they were previously, after several hours of normal play and I'd be afraid that my commons would snap loose if I did them like that. Also, I know how to solder just fine, but I think I like the idea of quick disconnects instead of soldering to each switch for quick replacement if required. Soldered does look really good though... I'm still impressed.

The project box idea is awesome.... I think I am going to try this approach as it looks fairly easy to do.

BTW, is it easier to work with solid core or stranded? I normally use stranded, but I have a bunch of 22ga solid core leftover from a garage door installation. Also, what kind of solder do you prefer for a job like this. I have a lot of silver bearing lead free that I use for console modding. I'm going to Fry's this evening, so I am trying to make a shopping list of what I need to rewire my cabinet this weekend.

Orclord · « **Reply #37 on:** January 18, 2008, 03:09:19 pm »

Quote from: Franco B on January 18, 2008, 02:23:16 pm

Ha ha! Hey Orc, where have you been hiding? (as if i don't know )

Nah, no toggle switches on this project as yet, gotta have a couple tho surely haven't I

I haven't given up my toggle switch fascination yet tho, I made another switch panel (for my car this time) recently.

You flash Bast.......

Still..... I had a couple of them things in red on the first CP I built.....

Copycat.....

Dazz · « **Reply #38 on:** January 19, 2008, 02:24:43 am »

Quote from: Franco B on January 18, 2008, 12:26:41 pm

If anyone in the US is looking for these enclosures, Mouser Electronics has them. Just search for the part numbers located here.

javeryh · « **Reply #39 on:** May 07, 2008, 12:03:15 pm »

Wow - I love this thread!


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