Where can I buy molex connectors with pins?

[unclet]

I am thinking about using some of these white plastic molex connectors as quick disconnects.   In a previous thread I decided to use some serial cable adpaters as quick disconnects ...... but I could not run the 5V power through one pin of the serial adapter.  I was going to split up the 5V power line across 4 pins of the adpater and then rejoin all  4 5V lines on the other side of the quick disconnect adapter.    Anyway, I could do this of course, but I thought if I used molex connectors then it would be easier since I would be able to simply connect the red 5V power line from my power supply to 1 pin in the molex connector.

Questions:

1) Can I (in fact) connect the 5V power line from my power supply to one pin of a white molex connector without worrying about anything melting or getting to hot?

2) Where can I get cheap female/male molex connectors with about 6 (or pins already in them?

[Spaz Monkey]

1) Yes.  I had my power supply to be the PC type where you use one molex plug for the +5v, +12v, and the -12v.  Think about your PC power supply.  It's doing the same job.

2)Electronic stores, Fry's, Bob Roberts, Mouser (in any order)

[govee]

try here
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?webpage_id=3&CAT_ID=39&ObjectGroup_ID=121

[WareWolF]

Keep in mind Molex connectors are NOT made for continous disconnect / reconnecting. 
Many of their connectors are rated for only 25 cycles before pins will begin to fail and have to be replaced.

[unclet]

I had my power supply to be the PC type where you use one molex plug for the +5v, +12v, and the -12v.  Think about your PC power supply.  It's doing the same job.

Yes, but I normal PC molex connector/cables will not do since I need at least 6 separate pins and those have 4 pins only.   Some of these 6 pins will be connected to stuff other than 5V, 12V, Ground so I can not use a PC cable split either .....

WareWolf
What does "25 cycles" mean?

Also, can I run a 5V line directly through "one" pin of the molex?

[MinerAl]

25 cycles means 25 occasions of connecting/disconnecting.  Not many.  If you are going to be cycling a lot you might want to consider the readily available RJ11 (phone plug/jack) for 6 pins or RJ45 (network plug/jack) for 8 pins connectors.

[MaximRecoil]

Also, can I run a 5V line directly through "one" pin of the molex?

Molex connectors are rated for amperage. I don't think you'll run into anything in an arcade machine that will exceed the amperage rating of a pin in a wire-to-wire Molex connector. Use .093" housings/pins if you want some overkill, which are typically rated for 11 to 14 amps. These are often used for the 120 VAC power connection to an arcade monitor. Here are some from Bob Roberts under the section titled "Molex rectangular .093 connectors" - http://therealbobroberts.net/conectas.html. He has from 1-position to 15-position available.

I wouldn't worry about the cycle rating. An .093" Molex connector can handle far more than 25 cycles without affecting its functioning.

[dweebs0r]

What tools and parts would you need to build these connectors?

I am looking to build a wiring harness with plug and play connectors for the control panel/ coin door/ etc.

-D

[MaximRecoil]

What tools and parts would you need to build these connectors?

I am looking to build a wiring harness with plug and play connectors for the control panel/ coin door/ etc.

-D

Read this - http://therealbobroberts.net/crimping.html

The Waldom HT-1921 (yellow handle) works beautifully on everything I've tried them on, from .156" pitch edge connector pins to .093" wire-to-wire pins. It makes crimps that would break the wire before the pins would ever pull off.

Some people will say you need a specialized crimper for each type of pin you use. I disagree. However, I've never crimped Amp brand pins, so those may be different. I've only used Molex brand pins/housings with that crimper.

[dweebs0r]

Thanks for the info.  That site is full of good articles.

-D

[Ken Layton]

The "25 cycles" of plugging/unplugging duty refers to the flat white Molex "KK" series used on the Williams pinball sysyem 3 to 7 pinball machine circuit board interconnector. Regular .093" Molex connectors far outlast that by quite a bit. Normally the .093" connectors are rated to handle 8 amps per pin but many people 'share the load' by splitting power to two or three pins just for redundency's sake.

I buy my Molex connectors from Mouser Electronics. The correct Molex hand crimper tool for the .093" terminals (and KK series .156") is the red handled # W-HT1919 (GC/Waldom Electronics). It will always crimp to the proper tightness with the terminals it was designed for. If you crimp .093" terminals with the yellow handled tool you will crimp too tight or even cut through the wire or chop off the terminal. The yellow handled tool is made for smaller terminals.

AMP brand terminal & connectors use tools all their own since AMP terminals are different sizes/shapes/diameters (and are patented!). Sometimes you can get away with using a Molex crimper to crimp an AMP brand terminal. I don't recommend it though. Personally I use all Molex connectors since AMP is so far overpriced on their connectors, terminals, and tools. The only time AMP connectors make sense is if you're a manufacturer. Then AMP gives great price breaks. For little guys or the average repairman, AMP simply costs too much.

Every control panel I build or coin counter/service/test switch panel I make gets MOLEX .093" connectors.

I've been using these tools for 25 years and the red handled one is what I use most followed with occasionally needing the yellow handled one for .062" and KK .100 terminals.

[MaximRecoil]

If you are only going to have one set of crimpers for Molex connectors, get the yellow handled ones. There is no such thing as too tight of a crimp, as long as it doesn't flare out so that it won't fit in the housing (which I've never had a problem with). I've crimped plenty of .093 Molex pins with the yellow handled crimpers and they come out fine. A crimped pin only has to do 3 things:

- Stay secured to the wire
- Fit in the housing
- Conduct electricty

If those three conditions are met, the crimp is fine. I've never had an issue with cutting through the wire or chopping off the pin.

[unclet]

Ok, thanks for all the help !

[ids]

fwiw, http://sayal.com/ has tons of molex connectors of various shapes and sizes and pinouts.  I got a 3x2 config for my Betson trackballs there.  And they are just up the road from me

[Orclord]

Personally I use all Molex connectors since AMP is so far overpriced on their connectors, terminals, and tools. The only time AMP connectors make sense is if you're a manufacturer. Then AMP gives great price breaks. For little guys or the average repairman, AMP simply costs too much.

Tell me about it.......Had to use AMP to connect to my Sega harness......

Crimper + Dies = £160

And that was 2 years ago........

[ChadTower]

I'm discovering this now doing the Tank II... trying to find a crimper for Amp for less than $25-30 that doesn't crimp like ass is proving impossible.

[Ken Layton]

Yeh those old Atari games used AMP "Commercial" and "Universal" Mate n Lock series connectors. AMP does make a cheap hand crimper tool for these series that's very similar to the Molex one and it sells for around $32. I've seen it at my local electronics parts jobber, but I can't find the tool listed in my catalogs.

[ChadTower]

Yeh those old Atari games used AMP "Commercial" and "Universal" Mate n Lock series connectors. AMP does make a cheap hand crimper tool for these series that's very similar to the Molex one and it sells for around $32. I've seen it at my local electronics parts jobber, but I can't find the tool listed in my catalogs.

I've seen it too.  Haven't dropped the cash on it yet and not sure I will.  I just don't like the concept of spending $32 on the AMP crimper and $15-20 on the Molex crimper.  How do you think I'd do trying both with just the HT1919?  I have a lot of pins to fix as well as 3-4 Atari games.

[Ken Layton]

The HT1919 will work with AMP Mate n Lock series. If you are careful it works---I've done it.

[ChadTower]

The HT1919 will work with AMP Mate n Lock series. If you are careful it works---I've done it.

Thanks.  I have to order a bunch of supplies for redoing connectors in all of those pinball machines anyway, so I'll do it at Mouser and throw the HT1919 in there for the ride.  The generic Radio Shack crimper I'm using now sucks - my crimps are secure but look freakin' awful.

[Daviea]

Hey UncleT,

I've been working with wire harnesses for many years and I would have to agree that going with a molex connector is a good choice.  The only thing you need to worry about is how much amperage you're running through that single pin.  I've seen many instances where the 5V line of a Molex connector got fried on a typical harness.  It usually had to do with a catastrophic failure of the machine, however. :-)

You can get these connectors pretty much anywhere they sell electronic components.  For the mail order houses, you can go with Bob Roberts, MCM Electronics, Jameco Electronics, Mouser, All Electronics, JDR Microdevices (I think they still carry components), BG Micro, etc.  Now, when using these connectors, you'll want a nice crimp tool.  A bunch of people here have suggested the HT1919 and HT1921.  This is a great entry level tool.  However, I'm more partial to the ratcheting crimp tools which, IMHO, create a much more solid (tighter) connection/crimp.

If you'll indulge me for a couple of minutes, check out these tools:

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=607-0205&SEARCH=&ID=&DESC=11%2D01%2D0208&R=607%2D0205&sid=479926805B1DE17F

Ok, ok.. I know the pricetag is extreme, but I have an alternative, so don't get worked up. :-)  I just wanted to point out this tool as it's the "official" crimp tool pushed my Molex, I do believe.

That in mind, look at this tool:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=272&products_id=1277

Ok, now this one is more in line with DIY arcade folk...which, in this case, is in line with MY wallet as well. :-)  Click on the product image link to get a close up view of the tool in question.  Note the "v" shaped crimp mechanism.  That's what you need to crimp down these type of pins (Molex).

I'd also like to note that this tool is excellent for crimping down Amp (Mate n' Lok) pins as well.

If you're curious about the use of this tool, you can check out the following link.  While it's not the exact same tool, it has the same crimp die, so you can get a feel for the proper way to insert the pin into the tool.

http://www.pin-logic.com/repair_the_connection.htm

I hope all of this is of some help to you and others.  When it comes to tools, I'm all over it!!

Happy gaming!!

David Adams
RAM Controls

1) Can I (in fact) connect the 5V power line from my power supply to one pin of a white molex connector without worrying about anything melting or getting to hot?

2) Where can I get cheap female/male molex connectors with about 6 (or pins already in them?

[MaximRecoil]

A bunch of people here have suggested the HT1919 and HT1921.  This is a great entry level tool.  However, I'm more partial to the ratcheting crimp tools which, IMHO, create a much more solid (tighter) connection/crimp.

I use the HT-1921 for Molex pins and I couldn't imagine a more perfect/secure crimp. I'll give anyone a canned ham and a pack of Lucky's if they can pull off the pin without breaking the wire strands that it is crimped to. When a crimp is stronger than the wire it is attached to, crimping it tighter yields no benefit.

[Daviea]

I use the HT-1921 for Molex pins and I couldn't imagine a more perfect/secure crimp. I'll give anyone a canned ham and a pack of Lucky's if they can pull off the pin without breaking the wire strands that it is crimped to. When a crimp is stronger than the wire it is attached to, crimping it tighter yields no benefit.

I'll concede the point.  However, I happen to prefer the ratcheting crimp tools typical of the ones pictured in the links I suggested for at least two reasons:

 - They tend to produce a tight crimp with much less physical force from the user.
 - They produce a repeatable "uniform" crimp due to the nature of the ratchet mechanism.
 - I like the clickity-click sound it makes when you crimp a connector onto wire.  :-)

The fact that they use less force to create the tight crimp comes in handy when doing a lot of work in one evening.  Otherwise, you're likely to get some gnarly hand cramps using the HT's which, obviously, makes it more difficult to play a game of Robotron....  Having used both types of crimpers, I'm sure that the ratchet type is much easier to use, especially in high volume situations.  However, having said that, an automated bench mount stripper/crimper is even better/easier, but that's a subject for another thread.

Also, the fact that each successive crimp of the ratchet type is identical to each previous crimp, a small amount of assurance is provided that you're producing a quality crimp each and every time.  I've used the HT's in the past and have found that YMMV with each use of the tool.  I never cared for that aspect of those tools.  As long as you squeeze the crud out of it each time, you can get somewhat similar results.  However, this goes back to the use of force issue I mentioned above.

Essentially, it's my opinion that the ratchet type is just a better tool by design.  I'm not saying that one tool is the correct one to use over another.  Really, that's the choice of the user.  However, having used both type of tools, I do prefer the ratcheting type over the HT series without question.  I'm only offering my viewpoint on the subject as an alternative possibility to anyone who's as into tools as I am.

David Adams
RAM Controls

[ChadTower]

I'm only offering my viewpoint on the subject as an alternative possibility to anyone who's as into tools as I am.

I appreciate the posts, David.  I may have given you crap about your business practices in the past but FWIW I took solid note of the advice you gave.

[Daviea]

I appreciate the posts, David.  I may have given you crap about your business practices in the past but FWIW I took solid note of the advice you gave.

Hey Chad,

No problemo, dude.  I have a thing for tools, so when I notice the subject come up, you can bet that I have an opinion on the subject. 

And, btw, don't worry about giving me crap.  I know I deserve it, especially when it comes to timely communication.  It's all a matter of prioritizing my time.  I'm trying my best to fix that. :-)  I love the community and want to make it better for everyone involved.

Speaking of tools, anyone remember Jensen Tools before Stanley gobbled them up?  Now, THAT was a cool place to browse for tools.

David Adams
RAM Controls

[ChadTower]

Speaking of tools, anyone remember Jensen Tools before Stanley gobbled them up?  Now, THAT was a cool place to browse for tools.

I don't.  Fill me in.

[Daviea]

Jensen Tools and Contact East were both specialized tool companies which each carried an AMAZING cache of tools...everything from your every day garden variety hand-tools to the extremely hard-to-find security tools used by several industries.  They also carried an immense selection of pre-made tool kits which came in handy anytime you needed to supply your techs with their own set of tools.  Sure, they may have been overpriced, but it was easy to fall into the thinking that the tool kit was something you just had to have.  I'm sure some of you can relate to that line of thinking.  We've all done it. :-)

At some point in the last year or two, Stanley Supply & Services either bought both of these companies or merged with them as the surviving company.  Either way, Jensen Tools and Contact East are gone for good.  But not completely forgotten, as far as I'm concerned.

EDIT:  Apparently, Stanley was the parent company of Jensen Tools and Contact East (I don't really know if this is true or not), but the selection of tools has definitely downgraded since the "change"....

The old Jensen Tools URL www.jensentools.com will redirect you to the Stanley Supply & Services website.  There, you will find a decent selection of tools (including crimpers), but it pales in comparison of the glory days.  It's still worth a peek if you like tools, though.  If anything, it can give you a little direction on tools you may be looking for in the used/surplus/auction market.  The pictures and descriptions are still somewhat of use even today.

David Adams
RAM Controls

[Ken Layton]

I had bought from Jensen before. I loved their wide selection of ready made tool kits for different applications. I wondered what happened to them since I hadn't seen any Jensen catalogs for a while.

[MaximRecoil]

I'll concede the point.  However, I happen to prefer the ratcheting crimp tools typical of the ones pictured in the links I suggested for at least two reasons:

 - They tend to produce a tight crimp with much less physical force from the user.
 - They produce a repeatable "uniform" crimp due to the nature of the ratchet mechanism.
 - I like the clickity-click sound it makes when you crimp a connector onto wire.  :-)

The fact that they use less force to create the tight crimp comes in handy when doing a lot of work in one evening.  Otherwise, you're likely to get some gnarly hand cramps using the HT's which, obviously, makes it more difficult to play a game of Robotron....  Having used both types of crimpers, I'm sure that the ratchet type is much easier to use, especially in high volume situations.  However, having said that, an automated bench mount stripper/crimper is even better/easier, but that's a subject for another thread.

Also, the fact that each successive crimp of the ratchet type is identical to each previous crimp, a small amount of assurance is provided that you're producing a quality crimp each and every time.  I've used the HT's in the past and have found that YMMV with each use of the tool.  I never cared for that aspect of those tools.  As long as you squeeze the crud out of it each time, you can get somewhat similar results.  However, this goes back to the use of force issue I mentioned above.

Essentially, it's my opinion that the ratchet type is just a better tool by design.  I'm not saying that one tool is the correct one to use over another.  Really, that's the choice of the user.  However, having used both type of tools, I do prefer the ratcheting type over the HT series without question.  I'm only offering my viewpoint on the subject as an alternative possibility to anyone who's as into tools as I am.

David Adams
RAM Controls

I don't disagree with any of that.

BTW, I have operated an "automated bench mount stripper/crimper" at a factory I used to work at, and they are indeed the cat's teats. It was my favorite machine when I first started working there. When I moved across the factory to the PCB manufacturing area, and started using the Metcal soldering irons, those became my favorite machines. No other iron compares to a Metcal IMO, no matter how much you spend—which is why I eventually bought one for myself. I got an amazing deal on a used one, the same model as I used to use at work.

[vintagegamer]

Pretty sure I got the one I needed for my Ms Pac from JAMECO:

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&langId=-1

[ChadTower]

BTW, I have operated an "automated bench mount stripper/crimper" at a factory I used to work at, and they are indeed the cat's teats.

I would hate to see what happens if you crimp the cat's teats... ow.