My first arcade project

[drpcken]

I feel like I know all you guys already.  I've been browsing this forum for about a week getting ideas, looking at projects, and becoming inspired.

Since the first time I played the original Killer Instinct arcade (I was about 16 then), I swore I'd one day own one and have it in my house.  Well the time came when it became a possibility.  I started looking around and came across MAME cab building, and decided instead of buying a cabinet, I wanted to build my own.  Now the obsession has begun.

I've never done any major wood working before.  Once I decided to build my own cabinet, wood working has become an obsession as well.  This week I went out and bought a circular saw, a jigsaw, clamps, sawhorses, a power drill, and measuring tools.  The first thing I build was a sawboard (this thread), and I was very happy with my results.  I had a blast measuring and clamping and cutting and sanding.  I know the only things left to buy is a router, an electric sander and some more bits.

This is my inspiration.  After seeing it I knew I HAD to build my own.  I love the CP, the art, everything about it.  I might even stick to the same theme as it is one of my favorite series of games.  But this idea might change and I'll design something completely from scratch.  At first I wanted to go with the 4 player layout, now I'm thinking of just doing 2 as a starting point, with the trackball, and 4 way pac-man style stick in the middle.  Each player will have 6 buttons, Killer Instinct style .

So many questions come to mind though.  What cabinet layout is the Zelda cabinet using?  How can I find something similar in a CAD drawing? Would I have to create my OWN cad drawing?  How would I transfer the drawing to a 4x8 panel before i start cutting?  Just draw it using rulers and protractors?  Could I print some stencil (is that even possible at that size? lol).  Drawing out and cutting the sides of the cabinet seem like the hardest part of the whole project and I would like to get right.

Another question that I have really pondered, is how the control panel will attach?  I've never seen a concise instruction on it.  On some examples it seems to just 'sit' on the cabinet somehow.  I would like to make it removable so I can upgrade or change it if I ever wanted to.

And finally, I've seen people here use different size monitors/tv's in the cabinet; from 19" CRT up to 27" TV's.  What is the best?  I'd like to get as close to that arcade feeling as possible (minus the dropping quarters part  ).

I am so excited about starting this project.  Once I find the right design for the cabinet, I'm going to get my 4x8 paneling.  I'm going with an 3/4 inch Birch Plywood for the cabinet, and the same size MDF for the control panel.  What do you think?

Thank you guys so much!  I won't be able to get through this without this wonderful resource.  I'm looking forward to showing you my progress!   

[DaOld Man]

sounds like you have a plan, and that is always a good start.
Good luck, and keep us posted!
Here's my mis-adventures:
http://skennys-arcade.blogspot.com/

[deadkenndys1105]

Well good luck with your build and just remember once your cabinet is finished you will hate it and want to build another because of the slightest thing.  Well there are a few things I will tell you.  First of all. DO NOT MAKE A FRANKEN PANEL.  to me they look wrong.  I want someone to walk by my cabinet and not know I built it.  Well until I tell them I did of course.  I hate when people have every single control that can imagen and more.

[drpcken]

Whats a franken panel?

I've never heard that term.

[deadkenndys1105]

Well I have heard of 2 different definitions of a franken panel.  The common one is having a control panel with everything you can think of.  Another is just a term for a wide panel that sticks out the sides because it looks like bolts in the neck.

[4Aaron GE]

Is there any reason why you're going to go with MDF for the CP?  I know you can buy half sheets of 3/4 inch MDF at places like Home Depot, but you're going to be left with a lot of leftover MDF if the CP is the only thing you're going to use it for.

[deadkenndys1105]

I would make it all out of mdf.  Sure its heavy as all hell but its easy to work with.  Wear a mask or be outside when cutting it though.

[drpcken]

i wanted to make it all out of mdf, but thats too heavy.  In my opinion anyway.  would cutting it to 1/2 mdf from 3/4 mdf make it any lighter?

I have some mdf leftover (4x7 actually).  So I thought it would make a nice CP.  Would 1/2 work fine for the cp? or do I need3/4?

[DaOld Man]

i think it is pretty apparent that 1/2" MDF would be lighter than 3/4", how much lighter, I dont know.
I think 1/2" would be ok for a control panel. I havent tried it, but I have thought about it.
Of course in my case, since the cab is made from 3/4" MDF, it just didnt make sense to buy a whole sheet of 1/2" just for the CP, so my CP is 3/4"
Not only would I have had to buy a sheet of 1/2", I would have also had to order 1/2" T molding, which probably wouldnt have been a big deal since GGG sells it by the foot.
I didnt know home depot would sell MDF by the half sheets. I bought mine from Loew's, wonder if they do? Never thought to ask.
I bought 3 sheets of 3/4" MDF for each of my projects. What scrap I had left was several small pieces, but together they would probably add up to 1/2 a sheet.
My ONLY complaint with MDF is the weight. I dont like the dust either, but if you can make all the cuts outside, that is not too big a deal.
I have thought about making the entire panel from 1/2". Has anyone done that?

[drpcken]

1/2 inch seems like it would work if it was made from MDF and had a plexiglass overlay, but i've never built one before

[Green Giant]

1/2 inch seems like it would work if it was made from MDF and had a plexiglass overlay, but i've never built one before

If you have .5" mdf laying around thats fine.  Lots of people do the CP out of 5/8" since the typical plexi overlay is 1/8".  Together this makes it 3/4" for the CP which is the most common size for t-molding, and you will probably buy a really long strip of tmolding for the whole cab, this will save you some money.

[genesim]

First of all. DO NOT MAKE A FRANKEN PANEL.

Disagree completely.   It depends on what kind of person you are.   I am a gamer FIRST, and I could care less what others think.

I am not trying to hide the fact that it isn't an original arcade, other then I like the artwork.

I don't want or have the space for 6 arcades. 

I like Donkey Kong, Tempest, Centipede, Q-Bert, Mortal Kombat, Ikari Warriors, Battlezone, Tron, and Pro Pinball....oh yeah, and 4 PLAYERS!!

Any other way it can be done without multiple arcades? 

[PCtech]

Good luck on your cab....it an exilirating, and humbling experience all at the same time.

Sounds like you've got a good start.....one comment on the Control Panel.....use a mockup.

After you have designed your control panel, build it our of thick cardboard, or very cheap wood.  Don't woory about finishing the mockup, but do mount your controls (sticks, buttons, spinner, etc).  Actually play the games you like with the mockup (for a few days( and see how it feels.  I did NOT take this route when I built mine, and just used someone else's design.  I almost had the thing finished before I discovered the button placement was wrong for me, the joystick was too far to the left for my taste.  The spinner was in a STUIPD place for asteroids, and I didn't leave enough space between my trakball and the backglass, so I smashed my knuckles when playing Golden Tee.

Then I had to redesign, rebuild, remount, and re-wire the whole panel.....

Next time I'm doing a mockup.  I have done one since, and will ALWAYS do this in the future.

Good luck...and post pics of you progress so we can make fun / encourage you along 

[javeryh]

First of all. DO NOT MAKE A FRANKEN PANEL.

Disagree completely.   It depends on what kind of person you are.   I am a gamer FIRST, and I could care less what others think.

I am not trying to hide the fact that it isn't an original arcade, other then I like the artwork.

I don't want or have the space for 6 arcades. 

I like Donkey Kong, Tempest, Centipede, Q-Bert, Mortal Kombat, Ikari Warriors, Battlezone, Tron, and Pro Pinball....oh yeah, and 4 PLAYERS!!

Any other way it can be done without multiple arcades? 

It definitely depends on the builder but if WAF is a concern I think you should make the design as elegant as possible.  Also, after building my first cab (a cocktail) and having people play it at parties I realized that even 4 labeled admin buttons are confusing to people who only play arcade games when they come to my house (especially kids).  How do I get back to the list?  How do I put a quarter in? Which buttons do I use to play this game? etc.  If you build a huge panel with 30 buttons, 4 joysticks, 2 trackballs, 2 spinners, etc. you will be getting a million questions all the time.  I won't even get into my dislike of 4P CPs... That said, depending on who will be using the cab and what games you really "must have" then go for whatever design works for you.  That's what makes this hobby so great - there is no right or wrong.   Good luck! 

[Kangum]

if  you like that type of cab this is far better inspiration 

see page 1

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=65678.0

[drpcken]

if  you like that type of cab this is far better inspiration 

see page 1

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=65678.0

WOW i really like that one.  But I'm a fan of the bigger CP.  Maybe not 4 players, but 2 players with 6 buttons each.

I love the colors though.

[genesim]

You see, as I said before, my problem is being able to actually play the games I mentioned.

Confusion or not, you cannot get around the fact that 4 way on a 8 way with no restriction just plain sucks!

Though if you are to break it down completely...2 josticks can be overkill for some.   You can program the buttons to do the same thing, so I think at least 6 buttons is a must.

But getting around a spinner/trackball issue is just about impossible.

Again, it depends on your taste, but I can't imagine being a classic gamer and not wanting these essentials.

All I can say is think about it alot, because once you make it, you can't go back.

For me, my "frankenpanel" is barebones for my needs, because my needs are playing all those games the best way possible...even down to Qbert!

[leapinlew]

You see, as I said before, my problem is being able to actually play the games I mentioned.

Confusion or not, you cannot get around the fact that 4 way on a 8 way with no restriction just plain sucks!

Though if you are to break it down completely...2 josticks can be overkill for some.   You can program the buttons to do the same thing, so I think at least 6 buttons is a must.

But getting around a spinner/trackball issue is just about impossible.

Again, it depends on your taste, but I can't imagine being a classic gamer and not wanting these essentials.

All I can say is think about it alot, because once you make it, you can't go back.

For me, my "frankenpanel" is barebones for my needs, because my needs are playing all those games the best way possible...even down to Qbert!

Since authenticity is a goal of an arcade builder, they'll often pick looks AND function. Which is why you see multiple machines at many of our houses instead of 1 machine with all the controls needed. Frankenpanels are diverse for allowing a person to play a lot of games on a single machine, but they don't work well for many people for multiple reasons:

• Many people feel they are unattractive
• They are confusing to casual gamers. If you entertain a lot, this is a big deal.
• all the controls aren't easily accessible

All I can say is think about it alot, because once you make it, you can't go back.

This is entirely wrong. Once you make it, you can go back and remake it. Many of us do this to refine our control panels as we learn our personal ergonomic needs after hours of play.

[genesim]

And that is the problem...many feel that all of us are bathed in time and money.

I can tell you right now, my arcade is the first and last that I will ever make.   So there is not going back, and I am proud that this is the case.

I suspect there are others that feel this way as well.    Though it is an expensive HOBBY, it is still mostly that for the majority.

So in keeping up with kids, wife, job...etc, yeah it would make sense to get it right to begin with.

That and the fact that joe public could care less about how it looks.    Because to most, the arcade machine is an eye sore anyway.    So having 12 buttons...having 50, it doesn't really matter.   What is more an eye sore is having MULTIPLE MACHINES???  Why not just stop all that playing and go with musical chairs. 

Who the hell wants that??   What do you need a frickin' arcade room??   Geez, now that is reliving the old days. 

Now if you actually take the time and educate your friends, then the problem is solved.   I am not needing a block party, just some time with close friends because after all, like alot of us, there is more to life.

My friends are smart, and it doesn't take long(like 2 seconds) to explain to them what joystick to use with what game.   

all the controls aren't easily accessible

This is entirely UNTRUE.   Matter of fact, a "frankenpanel" is actually more comfortable in many ways.   Anyone that has played on one will see quickly there is no adjustment needed.   You have more room, and quick switching for whatever game you choose.

[Green Giant]

That and the fact that joe public could care less about how it looks.    Because to most, the arcade machine is an eye sore anyway.    So having 12 buttons...having 50, it doesn't really matter.   What is more an eye sore is having MULTIPLE MACHINES???  Why not just stop all that playing and go with musical chairs. 

I have to disagree with you there.  I have found that probably 95% of guys between the ages of 3 and 40 think having an arcade is sweet.  When they see mine they all love it.  Then there is probably 60% of women that love it, but some think it needs to be in a game room environment. 
They do have the common sense to recognize style.  Ten joysticks on a single panel will look silly to them and overwhelming, but the traditional two will look normal and bring back old memories.

Every single person on here with multiple machines has them in a game room with other entertainment devices such as pool table, bar, jukebox, movie theatre, etc.  Musical chairs is just not fun without 10 or more people.

My friends are smart, and it doesn't take long(like 2 seconds) to explain to them what joystick to use with what game.   

The question is how do you explain the controls on a game you have never played.  With several thousand out there, do you know them all?  Devices like the U360 and electric ice buttons simplify this and make any game useable by anyone.

all the controls aren't easily accessible

This is entirely UNTRUE.   Matter of fact, a "frankenpanel" is actually more comfortable in many ways.   Anyone that has played on one will see quickly there is no adjustment needed.   You have more room, and quick switching for whatever game you choose.

If you have a frankenpanel, a real one that plays every game around, it WILL have controls not easily accessible.  You have two options to use, make it 6ft wide with every thing spaced out nicely but difficult to see the screen, or use layers where you will have to reach over the front controls to play.  This is generally defined as difficult to reach.  You might disagree, but that is the consensus of most people here.

Also, having two 8ways and a 4way with trackball and spinner is not a frankenpanel.  All those plus two more 8-ways, 8 buttons each, guns, three trackballs total, two spinners, a topfire joystick, a flight yoke, pedals, a diagonal qbert stick, asteroids button layout, steering wheel, and whatever else you can get your hands on makes a true frankenpanel.  Try and show me a layout with all that crap that will be easy to use.

[drpcken]

wow! you guys are passionate! 
I love it. 

I'm not really going for an authentic cab look, I just want it to look really awesome.  I want to be proud I built it myself.

I think the following will be sufficient for me (building a test CP before the real thing of course):
2 U360 joysticks - heard nothing but great things about them.  However, I'm thinking I need joysticks that actually have the switch to make it feel like a 4 way (the U360's don't have this feature right?).  Also If i'm not mistaken they have the shift switch, so you can double up button features right?  This might help keep the admin buttons to a minimum.
7 pushbuttons per player:  Killer instinct is the only reason I started this project, I have to have at least 6 pushbuttons (3 per row).  I want to add the 7th to allow the players thumb to press it (NEOGEO fighters).  I haven't looked up pricing, but it looks like the Electric Ice buttons are the way to go.  Of course this is purely my opinion.  It seems like alot of programming and wiring.  Whats your opinion on this?
Trackball - think this would be great (and a must have) for golden tee and other games that utilize it.
4-way joystick - this is completely optional, and wont' hurt my feelings if i leave it out.  This would be a dedicated 4 way for the older games (pac man, donkey kong, etc...) where the 4way 'feel' is crucial.  If the U360 can actually lock itself into the 4 way feel, I'll leave this dedicated 4 way out.
pinball buttons - not a problem, they are completely out of the way and easy to install
Player 1 Player 2 with some admin buttons on each side

This will be based roughly on    Cronin's Arcade CP (see attached image)
 
I think this would be a great CP, considering its my first   And I could always build a 4player CP down the road.

I'm getting giddy just thinking about it   

[leapinlew]

If you use U360's - you won't need the 4 way.

[Green Giant]

I think the following will be sufficient for me (building a test CP before the real thing of course):
2 U360 joysticks - heard nothing but great things about them.  However, I'm thinking I need joysticks that actually have the switch to make it feel like a 4 way (the U360's don't have this feature right?).  Also If i'm not mistaken they have the shift switch, so you can double up button features right?  This might help keep the admin buttons to a minimum.
7 pushbuttons per player:  Killer instinct is the only reason I started this project, I have to have at least 6 pushbuttons (3 per row).  I want to add the 7th to allow the players thumb to press it (NEOGEO fighters).  I haven't looked up pricing, but it looks like the Electric Ice buttons are the way to go.  Of course this is purely my opinion.  It seems like alot of programming and wiring.  Whats your opinion on this?
Trackball - think this would be great (and a must have) for golden tee and other games that utilize it.
4-way joystick - this is completely optional, and wont' hurt my feelings if i leave it out.  This would be a dedicated 4 way for the older games (pac man, donkey kong, etc...) where the 4way 'feel' is crucial.  If the U360 can actually lock itself into the 4 way feel, I'll leave this dedicated 4 way out.

This will be based roughly on    Cronin's Arcade CP (see attached image)

The U360's should be more than enough.  I have 49ways, the original autoswitching sticks, but the 360's are the newest thing out there.

If money is not a problem, get the electric ice buttons.  They look awesome.  The programming is really easy in mala and wiring is easy but tedious.

Trackball for sure, but unlike the one from cronin, you should make sure it is dead center.  You will never need three buttons for the trackball, probably just left and right on either side of it.  Also look into flushmounting the trackball.

The 4way is strictly up to you.  But what do you mean by the 4way feel?  Old 4way games could still move in a diamond shape, some people think it was a cross but you didn't have to return to center every time.  They do have restrictor plates for the U360 that change the way it moves, but someone else will have to say how they feel.

Otherwise, good luck and get to work.

[drpcken]

OH so it moves in a diamond? I was under the impression it moved in a cross.

How hard is it to activate the restricter plates on the U360's?  (running to do research)

[javeryh]

OH so it moves in a diamond? I was under the impression it moved in a cross.

How hard is it to activate the restricter plates on the U360's?  (running to do research)

You don't "activate" them - they are either installed or not.  It's not like the mag-stik or something where there is a plate that rotates in and out of 4-way or 8-way mode.  The modes on the U360 are handled through software.  I use the U360 and I won't ever get anything else.  I also installed the circular restrictor plate and the hard spring which limits the throw of the stick and makes it feel a little sturdier (they are plenty sturdy to begin with though).

[Bartman]

I've just recently started on my first cabinet and I'm already on my second control panel mock up and will definitely build a third before all is said and done.  Everyone has an opinion on how a control panel should look/feel.  At my local Lowe's, a 2' x 4' piece of particle board is $5.  More than cheap enough to build a panel, try it, and discard it if you don't like the feel.

If you want the classic look, then minimal controls is the way to go, if a Frankenpanel meets your needs, go for it.

[javeryh]

I've just recently started on my first cabinet and I'm already on my second control panel mock up and will definitely build a third before all is said and done.  Everyone has an opinion on how a control panel should look/feel.  At my local Lowe's, a 2' x 4' piece of particle board is $5.  More than cheap enough to build a panel, try it, and discard it if you don't like the feel.

If you want the classic look, then minimal controls is the way to go, if a Frankenpanel meets your needs, go for it.

yeah, definitely build a mock-up.  I built a bunch of them for my last cabinet before settling on the one that worked.  you can check out all of the iterations HERE.

[drpcken]

I use the U360 and I won't ever get anything else.

Good enough for me!   I've heard nothing but good things about those sticks.

Thanks!

[drpcken]

yeah, definitely build a mock-up.  I built a bunch of them for my last cabinet before settling on the one that worked.  you can check out all of the iterations HERE.

I really like what you've done so far.  Very informative.  I have one question though:  Did you only use glue?  I see you used some screws for the supports on the inside, but the pictures where everything is held together by the clamps and glue, do you plan to use screws?

If not, I'm amazed.  This will be my second real woodworking project, and I didn't realize the glue was that strong! 

[javeryh]

yeah, definitely build a mock-up.  I built a bunch of them for my last cabinet before settling on the one that worked.  you can check out all of the iterations HERE.

I really like what you've done so far.  Very informative.  I have one question though:  Did you only use glue?  I see you used some screws for the supports on the inside, but the pictures where everything is held together by the clamps and glue, do you plan to use screws?

If not, I'm amazed.  This will be my second real woodworking project, and I didn't realize the glue was that strong! 

Thanks - I didn't use any screws at all to hold the cabinet together.  Wood glue is unbelievable strong.  The only screws I used were to secure the wooden strips to the two inside panels because I didn't want to wait for the glue to dry (I used a glue and screw combination on the wood strips).  I'm 100% convinced that the MDF would fail before the glue joint if it was subjected to some outside force.

[xmenxmen]

I use the U360 and I won't ever get anything else.

Good enough for me!   I've heard nothing but good things about those sticks.

Thanks!

You mean beside being a few times more expensive then standard joystick..

[Kaytrim]

I use the U360 and I won't ever get anything else.

Good enough for me!   I've heard nothing but good things about those sticks.

Thanks!

You mean beside being a few times more expensive then standard joystick..

Think of it this way.  Can a standard joystick convert to a 4 way, Q*Bert or analog stick on the fly?  Can you easily purchase modifications for the stick to adjust it's feel and action?  That is where the extra cost is and IMHO worth every penny.  My next panel will use these or a 49-way with the interface from GGG.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[genesim]

I have found that probably 95% of guys between the ages of 3 and 40 think having an arcade is sweet.

The problem is that it is far less then 50% of the population.   

But I wasn't talking about multiple trackballs or spinners.    Those old Atari games aren't emulated properly anyway, and probably never will be.    A loss that we all have to live with because of the dedicated circuitry...that and the few that are, well, lets say that nostalgia for me I can pass on.    Post Space invaders is fine with me...though Avalanche still kicks ass.  Pong is another casuality that I would someday maybe rectify.   But excluding those multiples I guess I don't have a frankenpanel by your definition.    That is all I am arguing for and it should be clarified for new arcade hobbyist.    That and having two grown men with a little more room to play is not a bad thing.

The ORIGINAL Slikstik CO2 panel has always been the standard for me.   Perfect spacing and with a few modifications...even better.

If you use U360's - you won't need the 4 way.

Good enough for me!   I've heard nothing but good things about those sticks.

Thanks!

Actually...uh no, because it is not restricted.   So disabling the direction is one thing but having the feel is something else all together.  The "feel" is being able to slide into the direction and not being able to physically go in the diag or up.   No amount of fancy software/sensors can fix thix.

Dedicated 4-way that is restricted is the only way to go for me.   Each to his own.   Maybe I am wrong on Qbert, but having that restricted is also a must.   Those two are very important to me and Ultimate 360 design doesn't impress me in that regard, but it is still a fine invention for other reasons.  But like early circuit based analog Atari games, there are just some things that are hard to duplicate.

[leapinlew]

I have found that probably 95% of guys between the ages of 3 and 40 think having an arcade is sweet.

The problem is that it is far less then 50% of the population.   

But I wasn't talking about multiple trackballs or spinners.    Those old Atari games aren't emulated properly anyway, and probably never will be.    A loss that we all have to live with because of the dedicated circuitry...that and the few that are, well, lets say that nostalgia for me I can pass on.    Post Space invaders is fine with me...though Avalanche still kicks ass.  Pong is another casuality that I would someday maybe rectify.   But excluding those multiples I guess I don't have a frankenpanel by your definition.    That is all I am arguing for and it should be clarified for new arcade hobbyist.    That and having two grown men with a little more room to play is not a bad thing.

The ORIGINAL Slikstik CO2 panel has always been the standard for me.   Perfect spacing and with a few modifications...even better.

If you use U360's - you won't need the 4 way.

Good enough for me!   I've heard nothing but good things about those sticks.

Thanks!

Actually...uh no, because it is not restricted.   So disabling the direction is one thing but having the feel is something else all together.  The "feel" is being able to slide into the direction and not being able to physically go in the diag or up.   No amount of fancy software/sensors can fix thix.

Dedicated 4-way that is restricted is the only way to go for me.   Each to his own.   Maybe I am wrong on Qbert, but having that restricted is also a must.   Those two are very important to me and Ultimate 360 design doesn't impress me in that regard, but it is still a fine invention for other reasons.  But like early circuit based analog Atari games, there are just some things that are hard to duplicate.

You don't make any sense. Your all about authenticity but yet you use a huge honkin frankenpanel.

Obviously the dude doesn't know about the U360's ability to switch from 4 way to 8 way seamlessly. He may be just fine without a restricted 4 way. What I said is 100% true. If he has a U360 he doesn't have to have a dedicated 4 way. If he decides he has to have the physical restriction then it won't work for him. to me, the "feel" of a physical restriction is as important as not feeling a trackball, spinner and buttons under my arm while I play. You obviously are not bothered by that.

The Slikstik panels suck from an ergonomic standpoint. The problem with frankenpanels is always the trackball placement. Playing shuffleshot, world class bowling and golden tee is not safe on those slikstik panels. If you like them, thats your choice. I don't.

[genesim]

Authenticity with GAMEPLAY.   Looks are for grannies.

So as for the 4-way, yes restricted is closer to feel.   But if that is your choice, that is fine.   But to me, there are far too many 4-way games to skimp on this huge characteristic.

As for hurting yourself...yeah I have heard that, but in theory it is simply a non issue.     The spin you get from the track ball killing yourself can easily be rectified by turning up the settings.

Incidently Centipede and Missle Command are examples of games where the "hurt yourself" factor doesn't exist.   Precision over force.

I don't play bowling, goldentee or shuffleshot often because if I want that kind of gameplay I will go with a Nintendo Wii.     Or better yet, just learn not to jerk your hand up like a psycho.    I can get great spin from a short stroke with minimal force.   The cursor(ball...dot..whatever) only has to travel so far, if it takes that much, again you really should put your sensitivity a little higher..   

I know people like that, and it is precisely why the arcade stick gets broke.    The force exhibited is simply not that serious.   If you are putting your hand that far to the back of the arcade panel then I think you are overdoing your stroke.  Geez dude, one day you are going to punch out your monitor.   Do be careful with that continued mentality for gameplay, you are likely to hurt yourself and it sounds like you have with the way you are against the setup.

Apparently Slikstik bought into this bull by redesigning the panel at the expense of now putting your arm over buttons.    Well cool, I now have the "classic" version.  And I love it.  Plenty of room...second arcade stick and better placement of 4-way, Top fire, and spinner.    The new design is just too damn far apart for any kind of real world setting.   The only real benefit is the asteroids layout, which I map to the joystick anyway as I do space invaders.   Their all just microswitches in the end anyway.

 But hey, you think one way, I think another.   No big deal.

The Slikstik isn't perfect to you...great, then don't buy it, don't make it...etc.   But there is nothing wrong with a "frankenpanel" to alot of us.     You wanna recreate the full arcade experience....and I do mean full by creating multiple arcade machines, hey thats cool.   Enjoy.     

[leapinlew]

Authenticity with GAMEPLAY.   Looks are for grannies.

So as for the 4-way, yes restricted is closer to feel.   But if that is your choice, that is fine.   But to me, there are far too many 4-way games to skimp on this huge characteristic.

As for hurting yourself...yeah I have heard that, but in theory it is simply a non issue.     The spin you get from the track ball killing yourself can easily be rectified by turning up the settings.

Incidently Centipede and Missle Command are examples of games where the "hurt yourself" factor doesn't exist.   Precision over force.

I don't play bowling, goldentee or shuffleshot often because if I want that kind of gameplay I will go with a Nintendo Wii.     Or better yet, just learn not to jerk your hand up like a psycho.    I can get great spin from a short stroke with minimal force.   The cursor(ball...dot..whatever) only has to travel so far, if it takes that much, again you really should put your sensitivity a little higher..   

I know people like that, and it is precisely why the arcade stick gets broke.    The force exhibited is simply not that serious.   If you are putting your hand that far to the back of the arcade panel then I think you are overdoing your stroke.  Geez dude, one day you are going to punch out your monitor.   Do be careful with that continued mentality for gameplay, you are likely to hurt yourself and it sounds like you have with the way you are against the setup.

Apparently Slikstik bought into this bull by redesigning the panel at the expense of now putting your arm over buttons.    Well cool, I now have the "classic" version.  And I love it.  Plenty of room...second arcade stick and better placement of 4-way, Top fire, and spinner.    The new design is just too damn far apart for any kind of real world setting.   The only real benefit is the asteroids layout, which I map to the joystick anyway as I do space invaders.   Their all just microswitches in the end anyway.

 But hey, you think one way, I think another.   No big deal.

The Slikstik isn't perfect to you...great, then don't buy it, don't make it...etc.   But there is nothing wrong with a "frankenpanel" to alot of us.     You wanna recreate the full arcade experience....and I do mean full by creating multiple arcade machines, hey thats cool.   Enjoy.     

let me just take a second to say that your previous post is probably the most thought out, least offensive post you've ever responded to me. I appreciate that.

As for the "mentality" issue. I agree with you. The issue is my friends after they've knocked back a few and the smack starts flying. Some of them take swings that would go right through a monitor. Thats why my trackball for those style games is on a showcase cabinet. Even then, they manage to hit the player 2 joystick... whatever.

I do have multiple machines. I like my vertical 4 way games on a vertical monitor and I like my fighters and 8 way games on a horizontal. I have the space and couldn't really find a good way to do it with a single box. You have to admit, wouldn't it be nice to play Qbert, Tron, Tempest, etc. on a vertical monitor?

[genesim]

Of course it would be nice.   But it isn't that serious with me.

Why, because I like 3D gaming as well, and the trackball placement is perfect in conjuction with the top fire...like for Doom 3.

Not having a vertical monitor isn't going to take away from integral gameplay.   Aspect ratio is pretty much the same, it just isn't as big....I can live with that.   

Too many other games use weird resolutions, that there isn't enough room in the house to recreate them all.

I was thinking about my trackball example.    For me, if you have to lift your hand off trackball, then I am not as interested.    A few revolutions is fine, but after that, I don't feel I have as much control.   Hence I like a game like Centipede the best in this capacity.   Force is not needed.

least offensive post you've ever responded to me. I appreciate that.

Likewise, lets keep it that way.   Its better for the board.

I see your point, and we just have different priorities.   That is why there are Sonic people and Mario people.   I don't mind being in the minority.   Thank god for choices, I only want to present others with the same ideas.

[javeryh]

Authenticity with GAMEPLAY.   Looks are for grannies.

yeah, try telling that one to the wife!    

[ARTIFACT]

Whats a franken panel?

I've never heard that term.

a CP with

. 6 trackballs
. 6 spinners
. 6 joysticks (rotated, of course, 60 degrees)
. buttons on left of sticks for right side players (to confuse them)
. 2 feet of spacing between players
. 12 buttons per player (of course) so each has pause, letter "O", letter "K" (LOL) , exit, enter, coin,  left and right mouse buttons, plus game buttons. all crammed together so players hit exit by mistake every single time!
. CP dimensions: 8 feet wide, 4 feet deep

[Green Giant]

Whats a franken panel?

I've never heard that term.

a CP with

. 6 trackballs
. 6 spinners
. 6 joysticks (rotated, of course, 60 degrees)
. buttons on left of sticks for right side players (to confuse them)
. 2 feet of spacing between players
. 12 buttons per player (of course) so each has pause, letter "O", letter "K" (LOL) , exit, enter, coin,  left and right mouse buttons, plus game buttons. all crammed together so players hit exit by mistake every single time!
. CP dimensions: 8 feet wide, 4 feet deep

Don't forget 2 guns, 3 steering wheels, 6 pedals, and 3 gear shifts.