Kaytrim's Kustoms Back in Action

[Kaytrim]

Hidy Ho all and welcome to the announcement of the first model for Kaytrim's Kustoms.  This is still in the prototype stage but I am at a point where you can see the beginnings of how this little beauty is going to look in the end.

I wanted something slightly different from the run of the mill square box sticks.  So I decided to get a little out of line with some angles.  The pieces you see here are all joined with dowels and no glue (yet).  I still have to figure how I am going to do the corners as they are mitered cuts instead of butt edges like the top is.  Even there I have to deal with the angle.  The front face will be under the CP top and will not be at an angle but square to the top.  I went this way because the CP front edge is going to be cut in an arc.

The prototype is no longer in existence.  It has been dismantled for parts.

[Kaytrim]

Now I already have some artwork setup for these little prototypes.  I am going to make two.  The artwork has been done by an felow member here on the boards.  DarthGatsu

Street Fighter is one of my favorite game series so it makes sence that I use one of my favorite characters from that series, Blanka.  My other favorite character is E. Honda who is on the other overlay.

I will be using Happ controls for one of these prototypes and Swana for the other.  I'll keep you posted on the progress as I go so be on the look out for new and interesting designs in the future.

TTFN

[Donkey_Kong]

Liking those angles man! I want one. Maybe if  we could get Melissa to get your little plaques done we could talk about a trade, of course she probably thinks we don't need anymore sticks around the house...psst women.


Again nice job so far, can't wait to see these completed... 

[Kaytrim]

I want one. Maybe if  we could get Melissa to get your little plaques done we could talk about a trade.

Well tell her to start cracking the whip there dude. I sent her an email yesterday or the day before but haven't heard back.  I know that the project is difficult for her to do because of the size but I am also not asking for 100% perfection either.

TTFN

[Kaytrim]

Ok another minor update.  I drilled out the buttons holes and found that they were too close and I couldn't get the button nuts on all of them.  Good thing I haven't glued the panels together yet.  I've said it before I'll say it again, "I Like Bondo".   See the first pic I have filled in the holes using bondo.  This stuff hardens quickly and sands smooth and clean.

In the second pic you can see that I have the front piece cut and installed as well.  I also cut and placed the Blanka overlay to see how it all looks.  I think that I will paint this one green with green controls.

TTFN

[Gatsu]

looking good man.

I'm working on getting the template right for the buttons. So hopefully you won't have to fill any more holes. lol...

[psychotech]

 


Yes, looking really good! Like the angles especially 

I'll be lurking stage left...

psychotech

[Kaytrim]

  Some hardwood samples for future projects

[Kaytrim]

and one more

[Kaytrim]

Yes, looking really good! Like the angles especially 

I'll be lurking stage left...

psychotech

You know psychotech I'd like if you would do more than just lurk but is nice to know that you are around just the same.




Edit***  More pics can be seen here

[theCoder]

Are you planning on keeping the edges sharp?  I really like large (1/2" or more) rounded over edges.  They just beg to be touched. 

So you're going pro huh? 

[Kaytrim]

Are you planning on keeping the edges sharp?  I really like large (1/2" or more) rounded over edges.  They just beg to be touched. 

So you're going pro huh? 

That is the plan.    Nothing is glued up yet just using dowels to join the panels.  Once the final setup is done I will glue it up and add a 1/2" round over.  I can't afford the 3/4" round over just yet.  I need to get a drill press first.  My first few orders will go towards the purchase of the drill press then any other tools I need.

Below is a sample with the controls installed.  These are just ones I had laying around.  I'll have to top mount the Happ joystick due to the short profile of the box.  I might use the blue and white buttons with the E. Honda overlay.  What do you think?

TTFN

[Gatsu]

Awesome.

So the new template worked out then. I am glad for sure.

Can't wait to see it finished.

[Kaytrim]

Update time.

The top is cut for a top mount Happ Competition joystick and buttons.  The box is now glued together and the edge treatment has been done.  Now to fill the minor cracks and sand in prep for paint.

TTFN


edit: my design has moved away from this prototype.  All four sides are now angled but closer to 90 degrees.  See later pictures.

[Kaytrim]

I had almost forgotten the admin buttons.  I had planned on mounting them on the front face but after setting up the top controls I didn't know if there would be enough space for the ones on the front face.  Luckly for me they did fit and with just enough room to spare.  Even with the counter sinking of the front face buttons.

TTFN

edit: The CP area has been enlarged to give more space.

[Donkey_Kong]

Oops...Pm sent instead...

[theCoder]

Love the round-over.  Very nice.

[SNAAKE]

why is the front sticking out 

other than that everything else looks good.

[Kaytrim]

why is the front sticking out 

That is going to get rounded, (I forgot to cut it prior to the glueup).  The front face is square to the CP as well instead of the angle like the other sides.  The next model will have a much nicer treatment of that part.  In the end I will probably keep this one for myself, the mistakes learned here will make for a much improved next model which I plan to sell.

TTFN

[Chris G]

Good luck on the new endeavor, KT.   

[Kaytrim]

First coat of paint has been added to the prototype.  Sorry no pics yet.  Need to wait a day for the paint to cure so I can sand out the imperfections.  Then it is off to the final coats and clear coats.  I am shooting for a mirror finish.  Got some special material to try from Rockler Micro Mesh.  We will see how that works for getting that mirror finish.

I also have a special touch that will go on each of my custom sticks.  Follow this link for more information. 

TTFN
Kaytrtim

[javeryh]

Kaytrim - these sticks look very nice so far.  I really like the angles although I imagine it doesn't make building them any easier.  I'm also very curious to see the finish - those Micro Mesh sandpaper(?) sheets would have done me some good on my crazy pink finish.  I vowed never to go through that again (who am I kidding? it's only a matter of time) so I'd like to hear your impressions on the difficulty of getting that mirrored look and a step-by-step walkthrough, if possible.

 

[Kaytrim]

I'll do what I can javeryh.  These sheets are only 3x6 inches and meant for polishing.  I only go the 1500 and 2400 grits to start with.  I may order the finer stuff still, it depends on the results of these two grits.  I think you should still use 220 or even 600 grit sandpaper for the rough stuff then polish with the micro mesh.  Got to stop off on my way home and get some finer grit paper I only have 120 in my shop.  I got my dowels, rubber feet and tack cloth from Rockler as well.  Stuff came in the mail yesterday.

TTFN

[javeryh]

I'll do what I can javeryh.  These sheets are only 3x6 inches and meant for polishing.  I only go the 1500 and 2400 grits to start with.  I may order the finer stuff still, it depends on the results of these two grits.  I think you should still use 220 or even 600 grit sandpaper for the rough stuff then polish with the micro mesh.  Got to stop off on my way home and get some finer grit paper I only have 120 in my shop.  I got my dowels, rubber feet and tack cloth from Rockler as well.  Stuff came in the mail yesterday.

TTFN

Nice.  When I was finishing Bella's Arcade I used 1500 grit sandpaper to sand the lacquer down to a shine but it took FOREVER.  To get it really smooth I just used cutting compound and a cotton cloth and then topped it off with polishing compound.  It came out really nice (but by no means perfect).  If there's a better/easier way I'd love to know!

Did you make a bunch of jigs so you can mass produce the parts or is this going to be a stick-by-stick building process?  I love these things...   

[Kaytrim]

I'm making jigs as I go for what I can joystick holes and buttons.  Then taking careful notes on the rest.  Those compound angles are not the easiest thing to figure out.  I still don't have it perfect but close.  That is why I am doing MDF first.  Once I get those angles perfect I can move on to the hardwood.

TTFN

[Knievel]

Another K. Kustoms eh? My lawyers will be in touch...

[Kaytrim]

At least your kustoms are larger than what mine are.

[Timoe]

Good Stuff.

[theCoder]

Nice.  When I was finishing Bella's Arcade I used 1500 grit sandpaper to sand the lacquer down to a shine but it took FOREVER.  To get it really smooth I just used cutting compound and a cotton cloth and then topped it off with polishing compound.  It came out really nice (but by no means perfect)...

On the Xcelerator project, I used 1000 grit sandpaper followed by 2 different grades of polishing compounds with a car buffer.  It saved a bunch of rubbing, but also took FOREVER.  It too came out really nice (but by no means perfect).  I'm convinced paint is not the way to go for a quick good finish.  Either go with a hardwood or laminate.

[Gatsu]

what if you wanted a more plastic/glossy look? Just curious.

[javeryh]

I'm convinced paint is not the way to go for a quick good finish.  Either go with a hardwood or laminate.

I agree 100%.  I don't think I'll ever "just" paint another cab that I build.  The finish isn't nearly as nice/even as what you can get by using laminate, staining hardwood or going crazy with the automotive finish like Coder and I suffered through.

[theCoder]

...going crazy with the automotive finish like Coder and I suffered through.

I would have used a word stronger than "suffered".  But at least we have the nice finish and war stories.

[Kaytrim]

I tried the micro mesh on some wood last night after sanding with a 400 grit paper.  Even dry the micro mesh at 1500 gave it a real smooth feel.   I followed up with the 2400 and it was like glass.  I'll be doing this prior to paint on my next stick.  I will also do a wet polish with these on the final gloss coat and we will see how it goes.  This almost makes me want to get some of the finer stuff, it goes up to 12,000.  This micro mesh isn't even paper, it is more like a cloth.

TTFN

edit**  I just found sets of Micro Mesh Pads if you look in the 'more info' tab on the page it says that they are washable and reusable.   The sets come in 2x2 and 3x4 inch pads and includes all 9 grits from 1500 to 12,000.  I'm ordering myself a set in the 3x4 inch size.

[javeryh]

I tried the micro mesh on some wood last night after sanding with a 400 grit paper.  Even dry the micro mesh at 1500 gave it a real smooth feel.   I followed up with the 2400 and it was like glass.  I'll be doing this prior to paint on my next stick.  I will also do a wet polish with these on the final gloss coat and we will see how it goes.  This almost makes me want to get some of the finer stuff, it goes up to 12,000.  This micro mesh isn't even paper, it is more like a cloth.

Just curious - why would you paint over the glossy surface?  Or do you also plan on sanding the paint once it is applied? 

Post pics if you've got them even though it is next to impossible to take a good one of the finished surface...   

[Kaytrim]

The smother the starting surface the better the results.  MDF starts out ok but if you can get it smother prior to priming my guess is that it would be a better base for the final coat.  I'll have to do some testing though.  Hopefully tonight I can take a scrap piece of MDF and give it the treatment with what I have on hand then prime, paint and polish.  I'll also take a small piece of some of the hardwood I have and do the same.  I know that I'll end up with some scrap pieces of cherry and maybe even some of the padauk.  Only I wont paint the hardwood probably use a danish oil stain.

TTFN

[Kaytrim]

Just got word from the man himself.  My first set of plaques are ready for shipment.  The reason some of them are all black is that I want to match the main color of the stick it is going on.    Major props to Donkey_Kong and Pinewood_Princess.  If anyone wants to order any of my sticks send me an email kaytrimskustoms(at)gmail(dot)com

edit:  These logo plaques are optional for my custom builds.

[Kaytrim]

Results of sanding and polishing raw cherry wood.  The first pic below is sanded to 220 grit using a random orbit sander.  The second pic is polished using the micro mesh I have mentioned above.  I did the whole board with the 220 random orbit then used a 400 grit on half followed up with the 1500 and 2400 micro mesh and plain water.  Then I used a tack cloth to get all the dust off the wood.  You can defiantly see a difference in the shine.  I can't wait to see what it looks like when I get the higher grits of the micro mesh.

TTFN

[Kaytrim]

BTW I just got my first confirmed order last night.  A friend of my daughter's wants me to build him one so he can play MAME.  Once the word gets out at school I'm hoping for more orders to come rolling in.

TTFN

[Kaytrim]

My wife has the camera otherwise I would take a few pics of the current progress.  After sanding down the primer coats I am putting the final coats of paint on the MDF box today.  With the rain today I don't think that it will dry too quickly.  Next is the lacquer coat, this is where the polishing will begin.  There are enough mistakes on this particular box that I may not sell it.  I wanted one for myself anyway.

On another front I began working on an all Cherry box.  I have the sides and top cut pre-sanded down to 400 and assembled.  After I do the edge treatments I do a final sanding with 600 then stain and lacquer this box.  I am not cutting anything into the top yet as I don't know what is going into it.  I cut the top for the parts that the buyer wishes to have put in.

Hopefully I'll have some pics tonight after the wife gets back with my camera.

TTFN

[patrickl]

I polished my pool cue (got some special 3 grits sanding kit). The cue was just plain wood wen I started but it was almost like it was lacquered after I polished it.

[Kaytrim]

As I was unpacking some stuff for my new office location in the basement I found an old cheep digital camera.  Below are pics of the current prototypes.

[Timoe]

I cant get over that angled design.  That thing is going to be tough!

[bfauska]

I polished my pool cue (got some special 3 grits sanding kit). The cue was just plain wood wen I started but it was almost like it was lacquered after I polished it.

I realize I have a filthy mind, so maybe it was only me, but... did that read as really, really, really, dirty to anybody else?

[Kaytrim]

MDF Stick with controls and artwork added.  This will be run by a GGG GPWiz and connected to a computer when wired.

edit: This stick has been dismantled for parts it never sold.

[Jeff AMN]

 

That looks outstanding!

[theCoder]

My first set of plaques are ready for shipment....

Very cool.  What are they made of?  Did they make a mold of some kind?

The colors on your prototype are all over the map.  Left over parts, or by design?

Congrats on your first order.

[Kaytrim]

My first set of plaques are ready for shipment....

Very cool.  What are they made of?  Did they make a mold of some kind?

Yea, Melissa made the original, the green one at the top.  Then Jason made a few molds.

The colors on your prototype are all over the map.  Left over parts, or by design?

Yea I didn't have any new parts for this one.  It is a prototype anyway.  I'll order some color coordinated parts a little later.  I like the action button colors so I will probably stay with that.  I plan on getting a blue joystick and will probably use all red buttons on the front edge.

Thanks for all the comments guys.
TTFN

[Gatsu]

Damn dude. Looks really great.

That green joystick just kills the EHonda art though. lol. But you already knew that. Just picking at ya.

[Kaytrim]

Yea the joystick was for Blanka but I didn't have the buttons for it.    I have green Japanese controls on the way though so Blanka will go with those.

[psychotech]

Yesh!

Looking really good 

psycho

[Donkey_Kong]

Nothing to be ashamed of here, & that finish is very shiny. Nice job all the way around!

[SodaPopinksi]

I polished my pool cue (got some special 3 grits sanding kit). The cue was just plain wood wen I started but it was almost like it was lacquered after I polished it.

I realize I have a filthy mind, so maybe it was only me, but... did that read as really, really, really, dirty to anybody else?

^^^ 

[Kaytrim]

I was so excited about recieving my shipment from DK that I forgot to post here.   The Pinewood Princess ROCKS!!!

I put the original in a special place and one of the castings on my prototype.  All my future sticks will have one of these inserted into one of the sides.  My signature as my wife calls them.

TTFN

[Gatsu]

pretty cool. 

[xmenxmen]

Got any pics of the wiring job with the eco?

[Kaytrim]

It is an old version of the GPWiz eco.  Not a very pretty job either.  The wires from the controls to the eco were not the problem though the 22 gague wire just bare fit the tiny holes.  It took me an hour to solder the 14 wires.  Looking at the new version from GGG the soldering will be much cleaner.

I ran the wires through several wire ties screwed to the sides of the box.  It was all the extra cable for the USB wire and the USB hub.  The GPWiz and the memory key are plugged into the hub and the wire for the hub runs out of the box.  I plan on taking a spare USB cable and cutting it short to help clean up things inside the box.  I just have to get the time.   Then I'll take some pics.

[patrickl]

Isn't that plaque a bit big if you want to sell it to others?

[Kaytrim]

Got any pics of the wiring job with the eco?

I finished the USB wire shortening.  You can see it snake it's way through the buttons from the GPWiz to the USB hub.  I have a 1gb memory stick plugged into the hub just above the cable.

[xmenxmen]

Wow, I must say it's a pretty clean job.  BTW, what's the memory key used for?

[Kaytrim]

Wow, I must say it's a pretty clean job.  BTW, what's the memory key used for?

The memory key is used to hold MAME and a few choice rom files.  I plug this into any PC as a desktop controller.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

This controller is for sale in the BST forum

edit: This stick never sold, it has been dismantled for parts.

[Donkey_Kong]

Kaytrim-

The final looks great! Good luck with the sale...

[Kaytrim]

Well nobody seems to want to purchase this prototype so I am going to dismantle it and begin again.  Actualy I have already begun on new designs.  There will not be any pics until they are done though this time.  However I will give you three words as a teaser.

Green
White
Gold

TTNF
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

Paint is giving me some problems so it is taking longer than I had thought it would.  I can't wait any longer so here is a few pics for you to look at.  This stick will get the Blanka artwork after it is reworked.  The CP is larger on this box than I originally planed but it is all good.

TTFN
Kaytrim

edit: This is the current style of stick I am making the side buttons can be placed on any side and location.

[Kaytrim]

And here it is next to the E. Honda stick for reference.

edit: Prototype vs production model.

[Timoe]

It looks like your router got away from you on your JLF mount but otherwise the case looks awesome.  That is great!

Will the height of the control panel be adjustable in the four corners?  It looks like some corners are lower than others.

[javeryh]

Looking good!  I still can't believe you are angling the sides for these things - they look very cool but must be a pain to build.   I'm amazed how nice and smooth the finish looks once everything is patched, sanded and sprayed.  It looks like it was made out of one piece.  I never seem to get a perfect finish...

You guys have inspired me to try and build my own one day - the biggest hurdle for me will be soldering to a PS2/360 controller since I've never done that before...

 

[Kaytrim]

It looks like your router got away from you on your JLF mount but otherwise the case looks awesome.  That is great!

Will the height of the control panel be adjustable in the four corners?  It looks like some corners are lower than others.

I have a few tricks up my sleeve to fix the height so no worries.  As far as the cutout, I tried my drill press on this top.  Really it was because I was too lazy to take my router out of the table mount.   I wasn't too worried about the rough edges though because it will be covered with art and plexi.  I can always cut another top.

I have another box ready for paint hopefully tonight and will do a better job on the top for this one.  I may do a new top for the green box at the same time to fix that little error you so kindly pointed out.

Looking good!  I still can't believe you are angling the sides for these things - they look very cool but must be a pain to build.   I'm amazed how nice and smooth the finish looks once everything is patched, sanded and sprayed.  It looks like it was made out of one piece.  I never seem to get a perfect finish...

You guys have inspired me to try and build my own one day - the biggest hurdle for me will be soldering to a PS2/360 controller since I've never done that before...

 

Thanks javeryh.  You would be surprised how much can be covered up with a good paint job.   I used spray cans for this job.  4 coats of primer, 6 coats of paint and 5 coats of lacquerer.  I haven't even begun the polishing stage yet.  This is not mirror perfect yet nor do I expect it to be, but I'll give it a good try. 

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Timoe]

 

Hey I wasnt trying to be a jerk I just know you can do better just by looking at the box.

 

I cant wait to see it with art.

-Tim

[Kaytrim]

Hey I wasnt trying to be a jerk I just know you can do better just by looking at the box.

 

I cant wait to see it with art.

-Tim

I knew you weren't Tim, just returning the poke   If we can't poke fun at each other then life would be a real pain.  

I do agree that I can do a better job and I will strive for that as I go.  (that's why I only posted here)  Heck I am still learning about my drill press, it's an old 5 speed bench top model.  I got it for $30 via craigslist.  Then I went to Lowes and picked up their $45 set of Forster bits.  I still need to get the proper sized bits for the 30mm and 24mm buttons.  Looks like I need a 1 3/16" and 15/16" respectively if I can't find the metric bits.  There is a specialty woodworker's shop in town I have been purposefully avoiding so I don't go spend a ton of cash (credit).

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

My first polishing trial.  Since the lacquerer was so shiny I went straight to the rubbing compound.  I used my drill press for this run and even at it's slowest speed it got away from me as seen in the second pic.

[Kaytrim]

Here is a close up before....

[Kaytrim]

And one after.  I used my cordless drill so I could use a slower speed.

[javeryh]

Looks good - where does everyone get the hi-res art for these things?

[Kaytrim]

Looks good - where does everyone get the hi-res art for these things?

Google Image search is your best friend followed by photoshop.  This is not my work though DarthGatsu here on these forums does the artwork for me.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[theCoder]

And one after.  I used my cordless drill so I could use a slower speed.

I picked up a random orbit car buffer for my last green cab project.  It had a little more surface area than you are dealing with however. 

Look'n good.

[Timoe]

Awesome

[javeryh]

wow that paint job is Emazing!   

I picked up a random orbit car buffer for my last green cab project.  It had a little more surface area than you are dealing with however. 

Where did you get the car buffer and about how much?

Ryobi.  Home Depot.  $30.  It definitely does the job.

[theCoder]

I got the same, current price is $25.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100044715

[Kaytrim]

wow that paint job is Emazing!   

Thanks Timoe, too bad I am going to have to redo it.  While doing some hand polishing on the box I rubbed to hard on an edge.  I took off all the lacquerer and paint down to the primer.    I probably should have waited until the weekend to do the polish on the box.

One thing I learned while using the hand drill, don't let the buffer get too dry.  If you do you can easily take off too much.  I took of the lacquerer on one side because of this.  Follow up with hand polishing to clean off the rubbing compound and to deal with tough spots like corners.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Timoe]

Does Homey D's also sell the polishing compound?

[Kaytrim]

I got my polishing compound in the auto dept at the local stuffmart.

TTFN

[NiteWalker]

I still need to get the proper sized bits for the 30mm and 24mm buttons.  Looks like I need a 1 3/16" and 15/16" respectively if I can't find the metric bits.  There is a specialty woodworker's shop in town I have been purposefully avoiding so I don't go spend a ton of cash (credit).

TTFN
Kaytrim

The Lee Valley HSS (high speed steel) forstners and saw tooth bits are excellent, probably some of the best out there. Here's the link. The 15/16" is under the forstner section. They don't have a 24mm bit but they do have a 25mm. The 15/16" is probably closer though, so I'd stick with that. As for the 30mm, it's in the saw tooth section at the bottom. Definitely excellent bits and will stand up to a lot of abuse.

[javeryh]

Does Homey D's also sell the polishing compound?

I got mine at an auto parts store (NAPA).  Home Depot didn't carry it.  You need rubbing/cutting compound AND a finishing polish to make it really shine.  I went nuts with the finish on my last cab so if you want you can read up on what I did.

[Kaytrim]

Latest WIP...  Still rough around the edges but you get the idea.   I call this one White Gold.

[Donkey_Kong]

Looking good man. White Gold, awesome name. 


Can't wait to see these done. I like the slimmer profile of your new sticks vs the first one. Do you have artwork planned for white gold?

[patrickl]

If you plan on selling these, maybe the finish needs to be a bit more professional?

[Kaytrim]

If you plan on selling these, maybe the finish needs to be a bit more professional?

As mentioned Pat this one is a work in progress.  I had some major mistakes on this paint job that are not shown here.  I intend to redo the paint before I list White Gold for sale.

Looking good man. White Gold, awesome name. 


Can't wait to see these done. I like the slimmer profile of your new sticks vs the first one. Do you have artwork planned for white gold?

These newer sticks are using the Japanese Sanwa and Seimitsu parts which are about half the size of the Happ parts yet they are more than twice the price, go figure.    A set of controls for these sticks will run $60-70 including shipping.  A set of Happs parts will run $25-$35 with shipping.

As far as artwork for White Gold I have nothing in the plans as of yet for artwork.  I think that something simple is called for here.  Parts for this box are on order.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

I should have final pics of these two WIP soon.  Both boxes had to go back for painting several times.  I am calling Blanka done with paint, I am just waiting on the artwork.  'White Gold' is giving me more problems with paint then I bargained for.  I am not going to give up though and hope to have it done and ready for pics early next week.


TTFN
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

Ok folks I am still waiting on the artwork for the Blanka stick.  Instead I started my first real hardwood box.

Here it is after glue up.  I plan on rounding the edges because the corners are quite sharp.




I originally thought that this was Pakauk but after a little research I discovered that what I have here is called Lacewood.  Here is a closeup to see the grain and texture.



TTFN
Kaytrim

[Dmod]

Sharp looking box.  Would look really solid with some dovetail joints on the corners.

What are those small pieces in inside corners?

[theCoder]

Ok folks I am still waiting on the artwork for the Blanka stick.  Instead I started my first real hardwood box.

I'd go with crisp, clean art on this one.  No cartoon images.  Perhaps some geometric shapes, sweeping lines of gentle color transitions.  Anything but Spiderman.

How are you planning to treat the wood?  This has lots of potential.

[Kaytrim]

Sharp looking box.  Would look really solid with some dovetail joints on the corners.

What are those small pieces in inside corners?

Dovetails are hard to do on an angle like these are.  The corner brackets are to give the corner a little more strength and give the top and bottom a place for screws.

Ok folks I am still waiting on the artwork for the Blanka stick.  Instead I started my first real hardwood box.

I'd go with crisp, clean art on this one.  No cartoon images.  Perhaps some geometric shapes, sweeping lines of gentle color transitions.  Anything but Spiderman.

How are you planning to treat the wood?  This has lots of potential.

The lacewood has definite potential for treatment due to the unique grain texture.  I have a scrap piece left over from this box that I will play around with.  I was thinking about a plain varnish but I would like to bring out the grain somehow.  To do that I will try a whitewash and other stains to see how the wood absorbs the colors.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[javeryh]

David Marks would use tung oil to bring out the grain and the natural beauty of the wood... or something like that.  I hate that guy even though he has some serious skills... well, I hate his projects, not him (not my style).

[Timoe]

Lacewood is awesome.  Kaytrim, this will be one hot stick.


Here are my two cents:
Polyurethane (varnish) will bring out the grain just fine.
Do not stain unless you can get an oil based stain.
Before you do anything to seal the wood make sure that all traces of glue are gone from the outside of the box.  You can wet the wood with mineral spirits to see if any glue is still on the edges.  Mineral spirits will not raise the grain on the wood.
Have fun with your router.   

[Kaytrim]

Lacewood is awesome.  Kaytrim, this will be one hot stick.


Here are my two cents:
Polyurethane (varnish) will bring out the grain just fine.
Do not stain unless you can get an oil based stain.
Before you do anything to seal the wood make sure that all traces of glue are gone from the outside of the box.  You can wet the wood with mineral spirits to see if any glue is still on the edges.  Mineral spirits will not raise the grain on the wood.
Have fun with your router.   

Thanks for the tips Timoe.  I belong to a wood workers forum where I am getting similar tips on how to finish this piece.  The box sits only 2" high and I have another board ready for cutting that will only be 1 7/8" high.  These will not be for Happ parts they are way too big.  These boxes will be setup for Sanwa JLF joysticks.  And routers can be real fun or a pain, see next paragraph.

I took my test piece, cut and assembled it just like one of the corners on the real box.  I then ran it through the router table.  It tried to take the piece out of my hands.  My router is a variable speed and I had it set at a medium low speed.  I don't know if I should use a higher speed or not.  I am afraid that if I do it will throw it across the room.  After taking my time and making sure I had a good grip on the little bit of wood I got the routing done last night. 

Then I took my orbital sander clamped into my bench vice with 220 grit paper and sanded it smooth.  My sander is also variable speed and I had it set on the slowest speed it could produce.  This allowed me to have a good measure of control.  After sanding I washed off the dust and any glue on the face of the wood.  I looked it over and by a stoke of luck I had glued the two pieces with the grain in matching directions.  After the router did it's work the corner has grain sweeping up from both faces.  I'll have to get a pic posted so you can see how cool it looks.  I just hope that I was as lucky with the box.  It should still have that detail but the two pieces joining at the corner may sweep in opposet directions or both may sweep down.  I'll find out when I take it to the router table tonight.

After discovering that little detail I really want to bring out the detail of the grain now.  One thing that I will have to keep in mind, this is a very porous wood.  You can even see the pores in places they are so big.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

Took the box to the router table and sander tonight.  Look at the interesting detail in the grain that I found in the corners.  All four look like this one.



I am still testing different finishes but here is the box ready for what ever finish I finally decide on.



TTFN
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

Ok time for a few test finishes.  The first one on the right is Tung Oil, followed by a pickling white stain , then natural stain.



Here is a closeup of the Tung Oil.  Look at the grain in the corner and the up sweep that was discovered.  I got lucky and it is in each corner of the full box.



Here is a closeup of the three trials.  At this point I am liking the Tung Oil.  IMO It enhances the grain patterns the best.



Next I am going to get a polyurethane finish and try it on top of the Tung Oil and on the raw wood to see which looks better.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[javeryh]

WOW that tung oil finish really pops.  The grain on that wood is awesome.  I can't wait to see this thing finished.   

[Kaytrim]

Well your wait is almost over javeryh.




Here are two closeups.  The difference you see is from the wood and the way the light hits it.




And a closeup of the interesting corner.


According to the can I need to let this sit for a few days before I can put a clear polyurethane finish to seal it.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[theCoder]

I used tung oil on the dash on the Xcelerator project.  I just rubbed it down three times and did not seal it.  Not sure if a sealant is needed?

This one is going to look nice.

[Timoe]

If you want a sheen you could just wax it.

This is going to be a cool looking stick. 

[Kaytrim]

Thanks guys.  I want to protect the wood from the sweaty hands that will be using it.  That is why I was thinking of using a poly.  The wood is also a little rough still.  The grain raised slightly.  Would you recommend that I use a fine grit sandpaper to smooth it out before I put a final coat of tung oil?

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

I am almost done with my first commissioned stick.  This box was designed with a minimalist attitude.  All black box and red controls.  The Sega Saturn pad is hacked and working.  Just have to wire it up to the controls tonight and drop it off at the post office in the morning.

Here are some pics.








TTFN

[theCoder]

Very clean.  Looks nice.  I like your new avatar as well.

Good stuff.

[polaris]

dude thats awesome looking, really really professional finish to it.
lets hope its the first of many

[Kaytrim]

Thanks for the comments Coder and polaris. Will is anxiously waiting this stick.  He has a tournament on Thursday and would love to have this in his hands for that.  He has also shown these pics to a few friends and I may be getting a few new orders in the near future. 

TTFN

[leapinlew]

Looks good.... no Kaytrim Kustom tag?

[Kaytrim]

It'll be recessed into the bottom as per the customer's request.   The plaques are just a little big for this box.  It only sits 1 7/8" tall, the plaques are 2".

TTFN

[Jeff AMN]

That looks great! I made a post on my blog about Timoe's sticks and it's been one of the more popular pages on the blog since posting it (about 300-500 views per month). I don't know if anybody has contacted him solely because of my post, but I had a few people email me and double check his contact info.

If you want to get me a few photos to showcase your sticks, I can make a post for you too. I need to update the Timoe sticks post though, he's done some great work too since that point.

Here's the post I did on Timoe, by the way: http://stupidgamer.com/2007/06/29/tims-custom-console-arcade-sticks/

[Kaytrim]

I appreciate it Jeff.  However let me post a few more boxes first.  I have three currently in progress that will be real nice once finished.

TTFN

[arcadefever]

 

This one is really nice 

sexy 

[Kaytrim]

Thanks arcadefever. 

Wiring is complete.   It's a little messy but is works.

[arcadefever]

can you make me one 

[patrickl]

To get rid of the blur, try taking the pictures in a lot more light.

[Kaytrim]

To get rid of the blur, try taking the pictures in a lot more light.

I couldn't find my good camera.  That one has a macro mode for nice clear close up shots.  My wife usually has it in her purse.  This camera is a 2mp with no flash.  I had a bright light and the camera was on a tripod.

[Timoe]

I am looking forward to more. 

[patrickl]

To get rid of the blur, try taking the pictures in a lot more light.

I couldn't find my good camera.  That one has a macro mode for nice clear close up shots.  My wife usually has it in her purse.  This camera is a 2mp with no flash.  I had a bright light and the camera was on a tripod.

The pictures show they are taken at F3 and 1/13 or 1/15 of a second. That indicates very low light conditions and it results in a very shallow depth of field (thin area in-focus).  For an overview picture of the box that would probably not be a desired effect since most of the picture will be out of focus. If this is the effect your going for then you should take care to put the focus on something within the frame.

Add a lot of light and the camera will use a higher f-stop (probably something like F8 will work) and thus take a picture with more of the box in focus. For instance try taking a picture in sunlight with the same camera and it will be fine for posting on the web.

Anyway, just trying to help.

[Kaytrim]

The pictures show they are taken at F3 and 1/13 or 1/15 of a second. That indicates very low light conditions and it results in a very shallow depth of field (thin area in-focus).  For an overview picture of the box that would probably not be a desired effect since most of the picture will be out of focus. If this is the effect your going for then you should take care to put the focus on something within the frame.

Add a lot of light and the camera will use a higher f-stop (probably something like F8 will work) and thus take a picture with more of the box in focus. For instance try taking a picture in sunlight with the same camera and it will be fine for posting on the web.

Anyway, just trying to help.

Don't get me wrong Pat I do appreciate the help.  I don't have the ability to change the f-stop on that cheep thing.  I am going to have to do one of two things. Get a better camera for myself or get one for my wife.  I shipped the box out this morning so I don't can't take new pics.  But I will make sure that I have the better camera for future jobs.

Thanks,
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

I am looking forward to more. 

You'll get more pics when I am done with the next box not to worry.

Looks good.... no Kaytrim Kustom tag?

I decided not to put the tag on this box.  Not to knock Melissa's work but this box was just too fine and I had too little time to install it properly.

[Kaytrim]

can you make me one 

Shoot me an email and we will discuss details.  kaytrimskustoms(at)gmail.com

[patrickl]

Don't get me wrong Pat I do appreciate the help.  I don't have the ability to change the f-stop on that cheep thing.

I assumed that you couldn't set much, that's why I suggested just adding (a lot) more light. The camera will automatically go for a better f-stop.

Of course a better camera will help a bit, but with that little bit of light available you will always be struggling.

BTW congrats with the sales and have fun building them. It looks nice.

[Kaytrim]

I promised more pics as the sticks are finished.  Well here you go.  Here is my Blanka stick.  This box is ready for the controller of choice and includes side art.  Artwork done by DarthGatsu.  I can hack Sega Saturn, Dreamcast, Playstation 1, 2 & 3, XBox, XBox 360, GameCube, Wii and PC.

TTFN

[dmworking247]

Kaytrim,

Sorry if I missed this, but where did you get those bright green buttons for the Blanka stick from?

I was looking for buttons in this hue of green to match the T-molding I'm using for my current bartop project, but all of the Happ/other buttons I could source locally didn't match this 'fluro' green, and instead looked like a darker, 'forest' green.

[Kaytrim]

The buttons are from Seimitsu 30mm.  You can get them from http://akihabarashop.com/

edit***  The part number is PS-14-GN Green

TTFN
Kaytrim

[SodaPopinksi]

Looking really good! These sticks are driving me nuts with ideas, I keep saying I'll post my own soon... and I will... soon, lol. Can't wait to see the lacewood one finished.

[Kaytrim]

I just got commissioned for another stick.  This one will use a GPWiz interface.  Fred if you still want me to build you one contact me before the queue fills up. 

I hope to have the lacewood finished this weekend and there are quite a few 'kustom' parts on this little stick.

TTFN

[Kaytrim]

Another commission from the SRK forums.   Currently only one custom slot left.

I'll have two new pre-made sticks to post this weekend.  One will be the lacewood box I've been teasing you with.   More than likely the post will be on Sunday.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[arcadefever]

Another commission from the SRK forums.   Currently only one custom slot left.

I'll have two new pre-made sticks to post this weekend.  One will be the lacewood box I've been teasing you with.   More than likely the post will be on Sunday.

TTFN
Kaytrim

 

[Kaytrim]

BTW, that open slot takes into account your order arcadefever.   Two from SRK and one from you.  I only work on 4 at a time to try and keep the peace at home.

[javeryh]

Looking good Kaytrim - Where did you get the white wiring block screw terminal thingy from?   

[HaRuMaN]

Looking good Kaytrim - Where did you get the white wiring block screw terminal thingy from?   

I use those all the time for my controller hacks, you can buy them from Radio Shack or elsewhere.

[Kaytrim]

Looking good Kaytrim - Where did you get the white wiring block screw terminal thingy from?   

Looking good Kaytrim - Where did you get the white wiring block screw terminal thingy from?   

I use those all the time for my controller hacks, you can buy them from Radio Shack or elsewhere.

I got mine from GGG

[Gatsu]

looks great man. good luck with the rest of your orders.

And if you want any more artwork done just let me know. Things have slowed down alot so I have more time to work on stuff.

haven't had any progress on my stick yet because my workspace has been taken over by someone elses project. 

[Kaytrim]

Well I am almost done with the lacewood box.  Just a few minor touch ups and it is done.  Here are the final shots.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[WhiteFro1306]

  I like...

[Melissa Jones]

Very cool! I like the wood look!

[Dmod]

Nice job on that one.  How'd you do the lacewood bat handle?

[Kaytrim]

Nice job on that one.  How'd you do the lacewood bat handle?

The bat top is hand turned and the dust cover is cut from a piece 1/8" thick. I also used the same 1/8" wood in the buttons.  The finish is an oil that is rubbed into the wood several times.  It really brings out the variation in the grain.

Thanks everyone for the comments.  I am going to start on another box like this using some of the curly spalted maple I have on hand.  That is if I have time.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[patrickl]

That looks pretty cool. Why didn't you use plugs to hide the screws? On second thought, why do you have screws on top at all?

[Kaytrim]

That looks pretty cool. Why didn't you use plugs to hide the screws?

I couldn't find any to match the grain.  I have a super thin piece of the wood that I might be able to create a plug with.  Thanks for the idea.

On second thought, why do you have screws on top at all?

The wood you see there is in place of Plexiglas so it is the same thickness.  Also the all clear buttons I used only come in snap-in models.  So that top layer of wood is what is holding the buttons in place.  I needed some way to lock everything together thus the screws.

[Knievel]

Bravo dude!

That lacewood box looks great. The turned bat-top is crazy.

Soon your house will be filled with boxes of arcade parts.

[patrickl]

On second thought, why do you have screws on top at all?

The wood you see there is in place of Plexiglas so it is the same thickness.  Also the all clear buttons I used only come in snap-in models.  So that top layer of wood is what is holding the buttons in place.  I needed some way to lock everything together thus the screws.

Ah OK, I was wondering what changed, since the version with plexi top didn't have the screws visible.

Anyway, really cool result.

[Kaytrim]

Here is my latest stick.  Currently this has no art so it is open to whoever buys it or I get one done.  Thanks to Donkey_Kong for fixing the pics for me.  This one is real shiny so it was hard to get good pics.

[krutknut]

That wood design was really unexpected. It really does not look like a toy.

[Kaytrim]

Ok update on the gold box.  Artwork has arrived.  I got enough negative feedback on the logo that I replaced it with what you see in the second pic.

[dmworking247]

I've just caught up on this thread... the progress/evolution of these sticks is amazing... you've come a long way since the first ones... you've gone from 'backyard' to 'commercial'.

I have to say I'm glad you've changed the logo... the old one was too bold and juvenile.

I really like that wood grain panel, though I think the woodgrain in a plastic button is overkill, perhaps semi-translucent buttons with no color or backlighting? (eg what you have but minus the grain insert).

Where are you getting all the balltops/batton tops from to match all this, or are you making them yourself?

Well done!

[WhiteFro1306]

  Man, that artwork makes a huge difference. I liked it before but now I think I like it even more. Great Job Man, cant wait to see how mine will turn out.

[Kaytrim]

Three new custom stick orders nearing completion including a new hardwood stick.  Should be able to post pics by the end of this week.  This will include the orders from WhiteFro1306 and ArcadeFever.

TTFN

Here is a teaser for the hardwood stick...

[Cornchip]

 The mandrel you mentioned.

 Cornchip.

[patrickl]

a teaser for the hardwood stick

Beavis and Butthead would die if you said something like that to them 

[Cornchip]

  Stayed late to get these finished up and out of the way.

 Cornchip.

[Kaytrim]

Thanks for doing these up conchip.  They will make it much easier to turn the hardwood tops.

TTFN

[patrickl]

  Stayed late to get these finished up and out of the way.

That's an interesting way to light that joystick ball top

[Kaytrim]

Interesting that you should say Light-Up Patrickl. 

Latest project for your viewing pleasure.....

[Kaytrim]

And for one of the regulars here Arcade Fever.

[Donkey_Kong]

Nice new builds!  Freds is awesome...Akuma too!


I like the new way of displaying the plaques! 

[Kaytrim]

I like the new way of displaying the plaques! 

Since nobody seems to want them I have to make use of them somehow.   

[Kaytrim]

Due to problems beyond my control I don't have the one stick that I alluded to earlier.  Here is a wip pic though.

[arcadefever]

 

Thank you very much, i can not wait to get it !!!

Was a good choice to have you to build the ArcadeFever stick 

[Kaytrim]

Thank you very much, i can not wait to get it !!!

Was a good choice to have you to build the ArcadeFever stick 

I included a wiring diagram for the JLF joystick.  Though I think the directions are a bit mixed up.  You may have to swap left-right and up-down.  Otherwise enjoy your stick and please post some pics after you get it wired up.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[arcadefever]

Thank you very much, i can not wait to get it !!!

Was a good choice to have you to build the ArcadeFever stick 

I included a wiring diagram for the JLF joystick.  Though I think the directions are a bit mixed up.  You may have to swap left-right and up-down.  Otherwise enjoy your stick and please post some pics after you get it wired up.

TTFN
Kaytrim

I will post pictures, as soon as i get it 

[Kaytrim]

Another commissioned stick complete.

Sanwa JLF,
pink buttons,
pink bubbletop,
Seimitsu 24mm buttons on the front.
PSX Dualshock pad hack.
Dymondwood Case.

[javeryh]

Wow Kaytrim - now that's a stick!!  Very nice job!   

[SNAAKE]

very nice finish..matchs the artwork too !

I gotta get back to you on my box asap 

[Kaytrim]

Wow Kaytrim - now that's a stick!!  Very nice job!   

Thanks javeryh.  This stick gave me a fight but it was worth it.  This dymondwood is real hard stuff and didn't take to normal wood glue.  Here is a link to the manufacturer of the stuff.  The wood comes in various colors and the process compresses it down to about 1/2 it's normal thickness.

very nice finish..matchs the artwork too !

I gotta get back to you on my box asap 

The finish is just a clear high gloss spray polyurethane on raw wood.  The color is impregnated into the fibers of the wood during the manufacturing process.

Take your time SNAAKE, I have three in the que currently.  One of which is going to be another stick with this wood that I am about to start only in my angled style.  I could have the other two cases ready for viewing next weekend.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

The cold weather is slowing me down with painting.  I had two cans of spray paint clog up on me due to the cold.   On another front here is a little taste of the next Dymondwood stick in progress.   I got a new 3/4" round over router bit just with this box in mind.

[Jeff AMN]

WOW! That pattern is GORGEOUS!

That is going to be one beautiful stick. Maybe you ought to invest in a space heater or two to get things warmed up before you work in the garage and to help with drying times.

[Franco]

Verrrry nice work as always sir 

Im not usual a wood fan but that last CP in progress is looking awesome

[Kaytrim]

Verrrry nice work as always sir 

Im not usual a wood fan but that last CP in progress is looking awesome

WOW! That pattern is GORGEOUS!

That is going to be one beautiful stick. Maybe you ought to invest in a space heater or two to get things warmed up before you work in the garage and to help with drying times.

Thanks for the comments guys.


I am toying with the idea of creating a 'warm box'.  It'll be a 3'-4' cube with an inlet and outlet vent where a small ceramic heater will pump in warm air keeping things warm enough to let the finish dry properly.  The ceramic heater has no spark or flame so any fumes will not ignite.  It also has a fan built in so it will push the air into the box.  The outlet vent will allow the fumes to escape the box so they don't build up.  I'll keep my wood and paint in the house so they go out to the garage warm and I won't be trying to thaw they out before I use them.  My spray paint dries in under 15 minutes under good conditions so the heater won't be on for any long periods.

What do you think?

TTFN
Kaytrim

[HaRuMaN]

If it has a fan... good chance it may have sparks, too...

[patrickl]

Is the paint that flammable that it might combust on a spark?

[HaRuMaN]

Is the paint that flammable that it might combust on a spark?

If its concentrated in a 3' by 4' space....  very possible.

[TeamTEOR]

I'll agree here. Just about the only fan you can use that won't spark would be any kind of Brushless fans. Most computer type fans are of the brushless type. I still would be concerned about the use of a ceramic heater as well, but if you have it on a very low setting, you should be ok, however I would only have something like that outside (just in case). I am sure you idea is to keep things at good drying temp (70F to about 85F).
Tom

[Kaytrim]

Is the paint that flammable that it might combust on a spark?

If its concentrated in a 3' by 4' space....  very possible.

I am using Krylon spray paint.  My plan is to not have a sealed box with everything inside.  The box will have two vents one for the heat to come in and the other for the fumes to go out.  I have some flexable vent ducting that I can use to vent the box to the outside of the garage.  I also have some metal ductwork that I can use to direct the heat into the box.  Am I still creating a fire hazard?

TTFN and thanks

[Kaytrim]

I didn't get any sticks finished this weekend but I started to play around with my new toy.    I picked up a Jet Mini Lathe and here are my first attempts at turning ball tops for Sanwa and Seimitsu sticks.  The white and purple tops are from Sanwa and are there to compare size.



Here is my first batch of Oak ball tops.  None of the are perfect and a few of them have minor tear out near the base.  I have them for sale in the BST forum at $5 each.


Here is a closeup of the Oak along side an Acrylic that I find interesting.  If there is interest in the Acrylic tops there are about a dozen different patterns to chose from.

[blueznl]

Show-off!

 
 


 

[bfauska]

Is the paint that flammable that it might combust on a spark?

If its concentrated in a 3' by 4' space....  very possible.

I am using Krylon spray paint.  My plan is to not have a sealed box with everything inside.  The box will have two vents one for the heat to come in and the other for the fumes to go out.  I have some flexable vent ducting that I can use to vent the box to the outside of the garage.  I also have some metal ductwork that I can use to direct the heat into the box.  Am I still creating a fire hazard?

TTFN and thanks

If you put the fan on the "out" side of the ducting and suck air over the parts instead of blowing it over the parts you won't have to worry about the motor sparking at all.  If it sparks it's away from the system.  This is one reason that commercial spray booths are set up this way.  Build a box with fan sized holes in 2 sides, put a filter over one hole and a fan blowing out of the box on the other side.  If you want to heat the air that is being drawn into the box, you could maybe use a radiator style space heater instead of a fan and ceramic based one.  Heat the air near the intake of the box and the fan will pull that air through.

If you are still worried about fire, do this setup in your garage or workshop while you are working (you can run the exhaust duct out a window) have a fire extinguisher available and keep an eye on it.  You should be able to stop any flare-ups before they become a problem (and there shouldn't be any.)

Pretty nice new ball-tops by the way.

[Timoe]

congrats on the 3/4 round over bit.   It makes all the difference.

[TOK]

I warm up the garage before I paint (kerosene/electric). I've never had it cause a problem, but if I'm finishing something nice I shut it off  for about 10 minutes first since the fan tends to stir dust up.
A good trick for painting with a spray can in the cold or even warming up a cold can is to let it soak in a pan of hot water (tap hot, not boiling hot).

[Kaytrim]

So even if the can is kept in the house is it a good idea to warm it up like you suggest?

Thanks & TTFN
Kaytrim

[TOK]

So even if the can is kept in the house is it a good idea to warm it up like you suggest?

Thanks & TTFN
Kaytrim

That will keep flow more normalized if you're spraying in a cold garage. My garage is typically in the mid 40's on a cold winter morning. If a can from inside is left out there for just a short time, it doesn't spray as nice. The hot water trick buys a little more time.

[Kaytrim]

So even if the can is kept in the house is it a good idea to warm it up like you suggest?

Thanks & TTFN
Kaytrim

That will keep flow more normalized if you're spraying in a cold garage. My garage is typically in the mid 40's on a cold winter morning. If a can from inside is left out there for just a short time, it doesn't spray as nice. The hot water trick buys a little more time.

  Thanks for the tip.

[Kaytrim]

Kaytrim's Kustoms introduces the first hand turned wooden ball and bat style joystick tops. These tops are patterned after the standard Sanwa ball LB-35 and bat LB-30-N tops. These tops have brass threaded inserts and will fit the following joysticks.

Sanwa JLF Series
Sanwa JLW-TM-8
Seimitsu LS-32 Series
These will not fit the Sanwa JLW-UM-8

These are turned by hand they so they will stray up to -/+1mm from the mold formed Sanwa tops. Only a mechanical duplicator can create a closer match. I have used calipers to measure the size of the top at various points on the originals and transfered those measurements to my tops as I turn them. You can see in the pics below the bat tops also have the recessed threads the same depth as the standard tops Each wood top is sanded smooth then polished with a high grade wax that will protect the wood from liquids and normal use.


From Left to right Yellow Ceder, YellowHeart, Spalted Maple & Oak.  Future offerings will include Walnut, Curly Maple, Cherry, Purpleheart, Jatoba, Peruvian Walnut and Acrylic Acetate.


Bat Tops, yellow Sanwa Bat top shown for scale




Ball Tops, red Sanwa ball top shown for scale

[polaris]

i really like those maple ones, great finish.

getting good with your mini jet thing dude.

btw can you post a link to such tool?

[Kaytrim]

i really like those maple ones, great finish.

getting good with your mini jet thing dude.

btw can you post a link to such tool?

Just Google "Jet Mini Lathe" and you will find several links. 
I will say that it is not a cheep tool either and you still need to purchase the proper chisels.

[Kaytrim]

Here is a new stick finally complete.  This one was done for Snaake here on the forums.  YellowWood case, battop, dustcover and shaft cover.  Joystick is Seimitsu LS-32-01, Snaake will install the rest.

[psychotech]

Not bad ..

Actually ...

Great work .. once again 

I'll spy

[SNAAKE]

mine..ALL MINE !! MUAAHHAAHH !!

looks pimp..probably gonna put some sf4 artwork in there

[Timoe]

wow   

[Gatsu]

Well. I'm back from all the holiday stuff. So if you need any more artwork man just let me know.

new sticks look really good man. Im gonna have to commission you for one soon.

[Kaytrim]

Here is another one to feast your eyes upon.  This will be the last case I build with Dymondwood.  This stuff is hard and it took a few chunks out of my fingers as I was working with it.  Glue won't hold it together I ended up using screws and cutting plugs to fill the holes.

[Kaytrim]

And yet another complete stick.  This one is headed to the UK







TTFN

[Dave_K.]

That Mushi stick is gorgeous!  You should show this off on the shmups forum.

[Kaytrim]

That Mushi stick is gorgeous!  You should show this off on the shmups forum.

Thanks, that is where the order originated from.    I'll post it there in a few days.  I need to clear my plate a bit before I solicit more orders.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Gatsu]

Nice.

I'm gonna have to order one from you soon. My first one isn't quite turning out how it needs too...lol.

[Kaytrim]

For those of you who subscribe to GameRoom Magazine look at page 14 of the January 2008 issue.  Kevin Steele did an interview with me via PM two months ago and now the result of that interview is in his magazine.

Kevin you Rock.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

Last weekend at this time I was in the ER getting my thumb stitched up.  The culprit was my drill press loaded with curly maple and a 1 1/4" drill bit.  The stock table is only about 6 1/2" square so there is not much room.  I was holding the maple with my left hand and operating the quill with my right.  The bit grabbed the wood and in so doing pulled my thumb into the bit.  I am missing 1/3 of my thumbnail and received 10 stitches for my troubles.



This is a warning to everyone.  Treat your tools with respect and they will work well for you.  If you feel something is not right then figure out a way to do it safer.  I had hints that what I was doing was dangerous because of grabs earlier.  However I chose to ignore the warnings and I paid the price.

I finally got enough parts purchased and time to heal partly to build a custom table for the drill press today. Here are two pics.




This new table has an adjustable fence with hold downs for the wood being drilled.  This keeps my hands out of harms way.   It is also 18" x 12" so there is much more support area for what ever I am drilling.  I started out with a piece of 3/4" MDF and cut out the shape of the original work table.  Then I glued a 1/2" piece of MDF on top with some screws counter sunk to hold it all together.  I also cut out slots for the T-Track that the fence locks into.


On another note I will have some new sticks for your enjoyment in the next week or two so keep an eye on this thread.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[HaRuMaN]

Ouch...  hopefully you'll heal up quickly...

[arcadefever]

 

Hope you get better very soon !!!

[Timoe]

You'll be fine.  just dont quit.  On another note whatever you're workin on there is heavy duty and I dig the straight eight layout.

[SNAAKE]

sorry to hear that..hope things get better

installed the art on the box I got from you

[Kaytrim]

sorry to hear that..hope things get better

installed the art on the box I got from you

That is one sweet stick there SNAAKE.  Do you have any more pics?  I'd like to add one or two to my gallery.

TTFN
Kaytrim

[Kaytrim]

You'll be fine.  just dont quit.  On another note whatever you're workin on there is heavy duty and I dig the straight eight layout.

I don't plan on quitting Timoe.    That top that you see in the drill press is the curly maple that caused my accident.  This will be another 'Full Monty' like my lacewood stick.  Wood bat top, veneer button inserts and no art.  Here is a pic of the case as it currently sits.  Two coats of the tung oil you see in the pic.  As you can see the curl is tight and throughout the wood.  I also have another case in progress that is curly Koa from Hawaii.

[Timoe]

That new case looks great Kaytrim.  I almost bought some curly koa the other day.  I will stay away from it and try something else.

On another note, Snaake your new stick looks great.  We need to see more pictures though to be sure.

[Kaytrim]

Well folks this an overdue update.  You got a preview of this case just a week ago.  Well here it is nearly finished.  I just have to add the playstation controller and it is ready for shipping.  This style is called the 'Full Monty' because every button and the joystick get special treatment to match the case.  The joystick top is hand turned on my lathe.  The dust cover and button inserts are made from veneer that I cut myself from the same plank of curly maple that the case was made from.  All the wood is finished with 3 coats of Tung Oil topped off with 2 coats of polyurathane for a durable finish.

[stephenp1983]

So are you taking orders again, or is your hand still to messed up?

[Kaytrim]

My hand is still messed up but I am slowly working my current orders.  No slots opening up yet.

Kaytrim

[stephenp1983]

If you would, just pm me when a slot opens, thanks man

[SodaPopinksi]

Awesome curly maple stick /\  After using that wood myself I know the shine of the figure is even more amazing seeing it in person.

[_) (V) (-)]

Woah, I haven't checked this thread for awhile.
KT these have turned out Awesome!

[Barry Barcrest]

That 'Full Monty' stick looks really nice mate.... 

[Kaytrim]

Here is the latest creation from Kaytrim's Kustoms.  Curly Koa from the Hawiian Islands was used for the sides of this case.  Sanwa JLF joystick and buttons.  MadCats XBox 360 pad.

[javeryh]

Very nice!

 

It really shines - how many coats of varnish/poly/tung oil or whatever did you put on there.  Also what grit did you sand to?

[Kaytrim]

Thanks javeryh, I just used tung oil on this case.   The wood was sanded through to 12,000 grit using a product called MicroMesh prior to any finish being applied.  There was no sanding after the finish was cured.

[Franco B]

Awesome work as usual buddy! 

I wish I had your wood skills! (maybe I should rephrase that!)

[Kaytrim]

Ok folks here it is a tutorial for a button flashing LED mod that I posted on another forum.  The stick is one you may recognize as my second Dymondwood stick.  It came back for an issue with one of the buttons and a problems with the pad.  I offered to do this upgrade for the customer and he jumped at it.

Parts needed.
LEDs, one for each button
Resistors, one for each LED scaled for the voltage being supplied
Perf Board to mount the electronics
A hex inverter (Toodles recommended the 74HCT04, but also said that any of the 7404 family will work like the 74LS04 or 74HC04)
Wire, 26 or 24 AWG

Tools needed,
Drill and drill bit to fit the LEDs
Soldering Iron
Rosin core Solder
Screw drivers

This particular mod is for 10 buttons so I am using 2 chips. This can be done with one chip for 6 buttons as well.

First step is to mount the chips to the perfboard. Note the orientation, the white stripe helps line things up.



Next step is to identify the legs of the chips and install the resistors for the LEDs. Notice that each chip has one leg for the power and one leg for the ground.



Now drill a hole in the buttons to fit the LEDs. My LEDs are 3mm so a 1/8" bit is perfect. You can also glue the LEDs into the holes at this point. Make sure to test them first. Be extra careful if you choose to use supper glue. It can drip into the button and ruin it.




When using Perfboard there are small copper disks around each hole but they are not connected to each other. You have to create a bridge from one hole to the other as you can see in these two pics. They are the same board just top and bottom views.





The first wires I solder in place are the power and ground lines. I just jumpered them from one chip to the other.



Here is where the magic happens. The wires from the pad, to the button and anode of the LED are added to the perfboard. Also notice the holes drilled in the perfboard are for mounting the board in the case. It will be real difficult to drill them after all the wires are added.




Here are all the wires soldered in place and the board screwed to the case. I used Cat-5 network cable to help keep things straight.


And here is the board's underside.



The final step is to daisy chain the grounds on the LEDs and connect them to the ground from the pad. Then connect the ground and power from the perfboard to the ground and power on the pad. In this case I connected the ground to the daisy chain ground on the buttons.



Finally here is a short vid showing the working end product.

[HaRuMaN]

That is so hawt! 

[Franco B]

Now that is awesome! 

Thats really taking things to the next level! There's some real effort gone into that! 

Does anyone know if you can get Mala or any other FE to do that when you press the buttons? Obviously its not of use for your application Kaytrim as yours are for consoles but im just interested.

[Kaytrim]

There must be a way using the LED Wiz from GGG.  Post a question over in the software forum.  But you don't need that.  You can use the same circuit in your cab.  Just supply the 5v from the PC.

Kaytrim

[psychotech]

Thanks for the info 

Found the 74HCT04 online for 0.30 € apiece ..add the cost of suitable resistors and leds ..what cost? ...way too cool a solution!!!

 

[Neilyboy]

dang sorry to hear about the thumb man that sucks.. but man the stick are impressive!! very nice work man! that grain on that box is just amazing!!

Neil

[Kaytrim]

After a long hiatus where injuries and sickness sidetracked me I finally have two new sticks finished.

Purpleheart case
Sanwa JLF joystick with light blue bubbletop
Seimitsu buttons
XBox 360 wireless pad







Quarter Sawn White Oak with a Black Tint
Sanwa JLF joystick with orange bubbletop
Seimitsu buttons
PSX Dualshock pad
Button Flashing circuit

[Dmod]

Nice job as usual Kaytrim.   

Is that a USB connector?  If so, can you let me know where you found it and how you cut the hole for it?

I'd like to put something like that on my driver platform.

[Kaytrim]

Thanks Dmod.  Yes that is a USB connector.  My customer pointed me to them.  Here is where I got them.  The hole is a 24mm hole just like the holes for the buttons.  Then I used a chisel to cut the square recess.

[Kaytrim]

Time to take a break.  Real Life has sucked all my free time away but I managed to crank out a few more sticks.

First up is the most complex stick I have built to date.  This one is for both XBox 360 and Playstation and uses my button flash board, finally the bubbletop joystick lights up.





Video



And the last one I do for a month or two is this Dreamcast stick.





Now one last little interesting mod.  You have seen the button flash board and the lit bubbletop.  Now I show you the Joystick flash.

Here is the little driver board...


And a video of it in action...



TTFN 
Kaytrim

[arcadefever]

 

That Ikaruga stick is gorgeous 

[Kaytrim]

I have finally entered the blogisphere and I am starting to build joysticks again.  Though I am only going to take one or two custom orders at a time so I can build my own creations as well.  To get back into the swing of things again I am documenting my current joystick build on my blog.  You can follow along here.  My Blog

[stephenp1983]

Glad to see you doing these again.  Hopefully taking 2 orders at a time will be easier to maintain and you can do some of your own stuff like you said.

[dmworking247]

Awesome work, I'd never even bother to try and match it because I suck at artwork and staining and you get it so right.

I am however thinking of building a few similar sticks for my own use.. and i was wondering if your choice to use those particular buttons is because a regular 'happ style' pushbutton (with the long bodies) would not fit within the depth of your control panels?

Sorry if I missed it, but do you have 'standard dimensions' you build your sticks to?

[Kaytrim]

I was wondering if your choice to use those particular buttons is because a regular 'happ style' pushbutton (with the long bodies) would not fit within the depth of your control panels?

Sorry if I missed it, but do you have 'standard dimensions' you build your sticks to?

I like using the Japanese controls because they have a much smaller profile and they are the type that the pro gamers want in their sticks.  My cases vary but generally run 13" x 8" x 2" not counting the joystick shaft.

[Stub]

For a stick that size, do you think most people play with it on their lap or on a table? I was thinking it would be nice from the recliner, but does it walk to much sitting on your lap?

[Kaytrim]

Most of the videos that I have seen of the pros in action have them on the floor or in their laps.  It takes a little getting used to but with the Japanese controls they don't take as much force to activate compared to the Happ controls.

[massive88]

For a stick that size, do you think most people play with it on there lap or on a table? I was thinking it would be nice from the recliner, but does it walk to much sitting on your lap?

Mine that I made is slightly different in dimensions, at 12"x9"x 2 1/8" (I was worried about the depths!) but its perfectly comfortable sitting on my lap.

Its also made of 1/2" Oak, and is fairly light.  Kaytrim is right, the japanese sticks have a lighter touch that helps make it work well I think.

[Stub]

  It just made me think of an odd project. ( after the stand up is complete )

  A control very similar in design but maybe 28-30" wide that would rest across the arms of a recliner after you sit down, like a breakfast tray I have. I would add a mini trackball on the right, and maybe a spinner. It would also make for lots of room for art, a nice wide panorama of something.

[Kaytrim]

Ok folks I am begining to get back into building sticks again.  I have also started a blog where I will be posting most of my updates.  I am in need of a talented graphical artist who can add to a line art and then color it in.  Please send me an email for details.

Thanks,

Here is some wood that I am working with for my next build and will be the case for the above artwork.  This is called Narra.

[Sosetsuken]

Very nice work Kaytrim!

Just a bit of random knowledge.  When I've built sticks for people in the past, an extremely simple idea makes the sticks suitable for the rougher players.  Basically I just used a sort of seatbelt or soft cord that loops from the base, that people can either secure around one leg or both legs to provide stability

ie.



Can be in base or sides depending on aesthetics

Anyhoo, awesome designs mate!

EDIT: Sorry didn't mean to necro this thread :/

[leapinlew]

Can be in base or sides depending on aesthetics

Are we really that worried about aesthetics when there is a joystick strapped to your legs?

[dmworking247]

lol, strap on joystick.

Sorry, my juvenile mind couldn't resist

[Sosetsuken]

nvm,

just offering some suggestions that a few of my customers liked, forget it then.  Thanks for the great support.

[Kaytrim]

It has been quite a while since I posted in this thread so I thought I'd bring you all up to date on my progress.  Now that I have finished the basement I can spend more time in the shop working on joysticks again.  Here is one that I recently finished.

Curly Maple dyed black. Contain Sanwa JLF joystick, Seimitsu buttons, and a pad for XBox 360.





I was also contacted recently by a company out east to make a set of 7 joysticks for them.  These were a little different as they are to be installed in some kiosks at a up coming convention.  The 'game' that they are going to run is their version of Space Invaders.  The Seimitsu LS-32 joystick is set for 2-way mode and has two Sanwa buttons.




I have a few more items in the works and will post when they are done.

Michael

[javeryh]

Awesome job.  What kind of tools do you use to make your cuts?  Table saw?  Radial saw?  The curly maple one is fantastic and I love the finish.  Also, are the 360 controller's analog sticks connected at all or is this thing strictly for the D-pad?  I'm guessing you hacked a wired controller too and the three buttons on the front are 'back', 'home' and 'start', right? 

I'm really really really tempted to make one for myself for Street Fighter IV but I don't know if I can afford to right now.   

[Kaytrim]

Awesome job.  What kind of tools do you use to make your cuts?  Table saw?  Radial saw?  The curly maple one is fantastic and I love the finish.  Also, are the 360 controller's analog sticks connected at all or is this thing strictly for the D-pad?  I'm guessing you hacked a wired controller too and the three buttons on the front are 'back', 'home' and 'start', right? 

I'm really really really tempted to make one for myself for Street Fighter IV but I don't know if I can afford to right now.   

I use a Contractor's Table Saw, Compound Miter Saw, Benchtop Band saw and Japanese Hand saws for all my cuts.  I also have a Benchtop Drill press and a router table.  I use finely tuned, razor sharp hand planes to clean up the wood for a nice clear finish with the curl in the wood.  Sanding tends to muddy the appearance.  The 360 controller's analog sticks cannot be connected due to the fact that the joystick is digital so it is D-Pad all the way.  The rest of your assumptions are correct.

Get your current projects finished first javeryh.  Your juke is close to being finished and your arcade machine could possibly handle SFIV when it comes out for the PC.

Michael

[dmworking247]

Kaytrim, nice work as always. Is it just me or are you tweaking your design regularly? I'm not sure I noticed before but those latest sticks seem to have a routed recess (router table?) to allow an easy fit of the bottom plate?

[Kaytrim]

Kaytrim, nice work as always. Is it just me or are you tweaking your design regularly? I'm not sure I noticed before but those latest sticks seem to have a routed recess (router table?) to allow an easy fit of the bottom plate?

As I am gearing up for regular production I am finding areas and tools to improve the design for repeatability.  There was also a major design change in the 7 stick order.  Because these were to be mounted to a kiosk I needed a more substantial base panel.  Normally I use a 1/8 - 1/4" hardboard bottom.  On this order I used 1/2" MDF so I could install some t-nuts for mounting.  The best way to attach the bottom panel was to use a rabbeting bit in my router table and clean up the corners with a chisel.  This worked so well that it will be come a regular part of the design only for the thinner panels I normally use.

Another design change brought on by the 7 case order was the mounting blocks for the top panel.  Again these were used for strength and repeatability.  Look at the curly maple case.  Those little corner blocks would split once and a while.  These new mounting blocks match the slope of the sides on my design and give a more substantial mounting block to screw into.

Keep your eyes open on my blog.  I'll be announcing something in the next week or so.

Michael 

[Timoe]

Congratulations on your recent produce.  You do great work and that black maple case has a style that is truly unique.  I bet it was fun to order all those Seimitsu sticks, even if you don't get to keep them.  Since I stopped putting projects together I have missed ordering/having all those parts on hand.

Feb 17th is coming so you better get to work.  There is an angry mob out there that wants to buy up your sticks 

btw: SFIV has gotta be laced with drugs.  That game is so much fun and so addictive it is crazy. 

/edit: thanks MrMojo 

[MrMojoZ]

btw: SFV has gotta be laced with drugs.  That game is so much fun and so addictive it is crazy. 

And here I was all excited about SFIV and you get to play V!!