Author Topic: One Player Mini-CABS 4 sale (Read 3733 times)

Infrasonic · « **on:** April 20, 2003, 11:34:39 pm »

I'm building empty one-player desktop arcade controller cabinets. These will fit happ's ultimate, competition, and possibly super joysticks. These also will accept 10 pushbuttons. Constructed of 3/4 melamine. I am selling these for $23 dollars each.

Contact me at infrasonic1@hotmail.com

Click on this link for pictures:
http://www.geocities.com/pungstad/case.html

paigeoliver · « **Reply #1 on:** April 21, 2003, 01:10:10 am »

Let me help you out a bit. Almost ALL joysticks fit that bolt pattern. The New Ms. Pac/Galaga sticks do, old wico sticks do. The only real exception is original Pac/Ms Pac sticks, most 2-ways, and a few other oddballs. I own about 50 assorted sticks, and more than 40 of them fit that pattern.

A metal topped one would be a nice option, that way people could add a Pac-Man joystick for 4-way action.

Infrasonic · « **Reply #2 on:** April 21, 2003, 01:51:51 am »

If there is a market for that particular pattern, I wasn't really aware of it. If that particular joystick mounts close to the surface--ie like on a metal panel, .093. That can be worked out, one of these can be converted to accept one of those original joysticks. The surface would be .093 Lexan polycarbonate (instead of metal), fastened down with #8 stainless steel button head screws, but what would you do with all the button holes?

Do you think anyone would be interested in a mini, dedicated, pac-man joystick--probably with very few if any button holes?

paigeoliver · « **Reply #3 on:** April 21, 2003, 02:10:03 am »

I can't think of any 4-way games with more than 4 buttons. Most have only 1 or 2. I would go with the stick, 3 buttons, and then maybe start, credit and pause buttons as well.

I personally think there is a real market for a 4-way stick. Preferably already wired up (you can just hack $3 gamepads) and ready to plug in.

Very few people actually have a REAL 4-way joystick, and they have no idea what they are missing.

Infrasonic · « **Reply #4 on:** April 21, 2003, 03:27:24 am »

I can build these with any number of buttons, actuators are the only thing that separate 4 way from 8 way sticks. I don't plan to offer complete units anytime soon, buttons and joysticks are extremely expensive, and I don't like them just lying around. Btw, I don't know much about 4-way sticks and have no interest in them, but for some one into let's say Pac-Man, 4-way sticks are the only way to go, playing pacman on an 8 way digital stick you literally have a rig that is only 50% percent efficient. The 8-way actuator activates 2 circuits simultaneously on diagonals, the 4-way can only activate one....always the one closest to the desired direction.

paigeoliver · « **Reply #5 on:** April 21, 2003, 04:14:20 am »

A true 4-way stick is different in more than just the actuators. Those crap Happ sticks flip over to do pseudo 4-way action, but they still have a circular path of movement. REAL dedicated 4-way sticks have a diamond shaped movement path and feel totally different than those Happs 8-way/4-way ones.

The only good one available today as far as I know is the stick for the Ms. Pac/Galaga reunion machine. I have a few of those. They feel 10X better than those happs 4way/8way ones. I also have a few newer Sega puzzle 4-way sticks, which are true 4-ways with a diamond movement path, but the throw is too long for anything other than Tetris type games (not too hot for Pac or Donkey Kong).

armad1ll0 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 21, 2003, 04:15:05 am »

If anyone wants to have any "pre-wired" Sony PSX encoder card with all of the wires ready for soldering onto this joystick box... let me know"

$25 gives you something that will lay right in there and be ready to work as quickly as you can get it together.

Instructions and a wiring code will be included for the rest of it.

I also offer the dualshocks wired up and ready to go...

www.modeverything.com

John T.

Infrasonic · « **Reply #7 on:** April 21, 2003, 03:30:42 pm »

I've been wanting to make arcade joysticks ever since Street Fighter 2 came out on SNES, that event started the whole home arcade stick market. Unfortunately for everyone, Nintendo came out with that really cheesy fighter stick, KBM had the best one even though it was way to light.

Zeitgeist · « **Reply #8 on:** April 21, 2003, 04:07:51 pm »

Very nice & really professional looking.
Great job!
This should be appealing to the folks who don't have the time or adequate woodworking tools or skills but still want the pleasure of building their own.
Just a thought - You may want to consider stocking up & selling rubber feet & T-molding already installed for an additional $10 or so as an option.
They are relatively innexpensive especially when purchased in bulk.
Are you offering it in black also?
Best of luck to you!
Z

Infrasonic · « **Reply #9 on:** April 21, 2003, 04:16:23 pm »

If I could get t-moulding in bulk I would just include it, but $370 for 1000 feet or so just too expensive, I install the t-moulding for $5, I could put the feet on for $2.50.

Zeitgeist · « **Reply #10 on:** April 21, 2003, 09:04:25 pm »

I am humbled...
All that & for under $30!
Seriously though this panel at that price would make me reconsider making a box from scratch the next time one of my friends wants a single player stick.
Z

Infrasonic · « **Reply #11 on:** April 21, 2003, 09:05:42 pm »

T-Molding already installed: $23 dollars, rubber feet are $2 bucks extra.

rampy · « **Reply #12 on:** April 21, 2003, 09:08:05 pm »

Infrasonic... I think your product looks very slick and looks well made and sharp...

But may I humbly suggest that you call it 1 player control panel... When I think of mini-cabs I envision bartop or cabarat machines. Butg you can of course call it whatever you want I'm just making a suggestion. *shrug*

good luck!

rampy

Infrasonic · « **Reply #13 on:** April 21, 2003, 09:56:16 pm »

thanks for the nomenclature, I'll be sure to on my next posting.

rampy · « **Reply #14 on:** April 21, 2003, 10:21:36 pm »

Quote from: Infrasonic on April 21, 2003, 09:56:16 pm

thanks for the nomenclature, I'll be sure to on my next posting.

Cool, whatever works for you... just was sharing my opinion.

hope it didn't come across as a slam or anything... good luck and welcome!

rampy

Infrasonic · « **Reply #15 on:** April 23, 2003, 06:37:35 pm »

$:-\$ no problem

Magnet_Eye · « **Reply #16 on:** April 23, 2003, 09:43:55 pm »

DOES IT COME IN BLACK?

Can the button layout change at all?

Are there holes in the back to pass through wires, etc?

Looks nice. Great price.

MrBond · « **Reply #17 on:** April 23, 2003, 10:53:09 pm »

Excellent! I'd swipe one up if I hadn't just built two of my own! Great price too. I'll recomend this link to anyone looking for something similiar.

Infrasonic · « **Reply #18 on:** April 24, 2003, 12:34:06 am »

The button placement can be changed, within the confines of the existing button area, I've built some where the left 2 buttons were lowered 1/2 spacing, and I've built 1 with 7 buttons (dreamcast layout). Take a look at the website for the wire pass-through on the back. I wanna make a bunch in black, but I gotta buy the stock material in full sheets, around 14-18 units. Anyone interested in white (for now) hit me up, button placement is definately changeable.

aj6500 · « **Reply #19 on:** April 24, 2003, 02:32:33 am »

I also thought you were selling a bartop cab. Twice as a matter of fact. I'm an idiot. If anyone does decide to make bartop for $23, let me know. I need a YDKJ setup.

Chris · « **Reply #20 on:** April 24, 2003, 10:21:05 am »

Don't forget that YDKJ setups require a keyboard...

gnateye · « **Reply #21 on:** April 24, 2003, 06:43:06 pm »

these are super nice, next time i need to make a stick for someone, im getting he box from you. verynice job, definatly get black as well, that would be my preference.

good job

gnateye

Infrasonic · « **Reply #22 on:** April 27, 2003, 08:43:37 pm »

I've got one up for sale on ebay right now, anyone interested, check it out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3021202993

armad1ll0 · « **Reply #23 on:** April 27, 2003, 10:52:41 pm »

Here's basically the same thing in Black Melamine...

http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/systems/Stealth.htm

Infrasonic · « **Reply #24 on:** April 28, 2003, 12:20:57 am »

Mine is better, more on that later.

Infrasonic · « **Reply #25 on:** April 28, 2003, 01:48:03 am »

armad1ll0 that is your website and your product, right?

I'm only selling empty cases for DIY purposes.

The geometry on mine is distinctly different from that one. I built a couple units earily similar to that one over a year ago... model one on my arcade joysticks website

http://www.geocities.com/pungstad/playstation2.html

The thing about melamine is that only Home Depot sells it in 2x4s and that's only in white, so if I wanna buy any other color it's gotta be in full sheets.

Personally, I like disconnects, parts can be interchanged without a soldering iron saving time.

BTW yes melamine sucks to work with, it chips very easily during fabrication but is actually a very durable material so long as the edges are protected.

As far as acrylic (Plexiglass) is concerned I just don't like that plastic in that small a thickness it tends to crack way to easily, I built a prototype for my model one design using plexiglass, and I will not use that type of plastic again. Lexan polycarbonate is my panel plastic of choice now. .093 sheet lexan will not crack or break, it's just impossible, even in manufacturing that stuff presents its own challenges for that reason, too bad lexan scratches way to easy and will tend to turn yellow over time.

Somebody needs to build Hagstrom-pattern encoders way cheaper (like $5). I hate hacking gamepads, the smell of solder and flux floating around, my fingers being burned....

Black melamine will yield a product similar to this:

armad1ll0 · « **Reply #26 on:** April 28, 2003, 05:29:20 am »

Dude, chill...

I was just posting a link to what a black box would look like. I'm too busy to try to make a living on this stuff. It's just a hobby.

I'm not going to go in to a "mine is better" pissing festival but I'm just showing what people could make with a black melamine box.

I never dissed your box so show me some respect, please...

You might want to consider going back to your design one because you need a decent distance bellow the bottom row of buttons. No really player wants to feel the bottom edge on their palm. Also, people don't want to feel the fasteners also. Bolts on top are not good.

I also personally prefer a distplaced bottom left button "hanaho hotrod" style cause it makes a nice hybrid Neo-Geo Capcom layout. You can also pivot your and instead of moving it over to hit that button.

I custom build for customers that appreciate my work. We are all true gamers, mostly in the game industry (like me) and they are very highly skilled Street Fighter players. I know what I'm doing.

Infrasonic · « **Reply #27 on:** April 28, 2003, 04:48:57 pm »

No offense guy, my initial reaction to your posting was a bit immature, kind of a reflex action I guess.

There are only two types of fasteners that can be exposed above the surface: carraige bolts and button head screws. I use the latter, and this fastener was specifically designed for purposes such as these. All sharp, and angular areas are recessed and as long as these fasteners aren't damaged during installation, it is impossible scratch yourself with them.

People have definately raised concerns about the lack of palm space below the button row, from my experience though, it hasn't proved much of a problem.

General advice to anyone: Mounting depth is very important with the comp/ultimate sticks. Too shallow: the ultimate RULES over the comp. Too deep and I think the comp rules. At 1/2 inch +/- 10%, the lower mass of the ultimate, and the ability to feel the switch position is an advantage to the ult. where the solidness and smooth 360 motion is advantageous to the comp. These devices also are designed for shallow mounting also--but you have to use the alternate spacer, and affix the spring clip to a different slot.

armad1ll0 · « **Reply #28 on:** April 28, 2003, 10:22:43 pm »

if the fastener can be felt when moving you hand across the top surface then that bothers me. The fasteners for the lexan are not needed since the buttons hold the plate down. That's how I do it.

I like your joystick mounted with no fasteners on top. I don't know why people but bolts through the overlay... I always used screws and it never came loose.
A thin surface could be a different problem.

If someone raised the issue about having enough palm space, then it's an issue ... right? The thing about stick designs is that it's all about comfort...

Infrasonic · « **Reply #29 on:** April 29, 2003, 01:02:20 am »

a good way to use a plastic top panel is to countersink the joystick mounting holes and use flat head machine screws-possible glued and/or threaded through a slightly undersized hole the result will be mounting studs on the bottom where the joystick mounts. through mounting the joystick when using a plastic top panel may apply too much pressure on the mounting areas resulting in possible damage or cracking to the plastic area where the joystick mount in the case of plexi.

The Lexan plastic top panel cover that I use must be fastened down due to the fact that the edges will tend to rise upwards when I tighten down the buttons. Lexan plastic will not maintain its flatness without this measure (though plexi/acrylic might), on bright side however, Lexan is unbreakable and won't crack if the fasteners are overtightened. I chose this particular fastener because it is the pattern used in the typical full sized arcade system that uses the plastic cover, although they mostly use bright, blued, or painted steel instead of stainless.

Personally I like polycarbonate plastics a lot, I dropped a pager made out of polycarbonate plastic 12 feet onto concrete, and the thing still worked without any detectable damage other than a small scuf. High end plastic products such as plastic power tools, and the clear plastic protective things they put on table saws, routers, and table routers use polycarbonate. If I remember correctly - the armored Taco Bell up in Oakland also uses a drive-through window door made out of bullet resistant polycarbonate. Another good plastic is abs it is sometimes mixed with 'pc'. I've ran over abs pipes in a 5-ton forklift carrying a 4 ton load and they didn't break into pieces they just flattened.

Brax · « **Reply #30 on:** April 29, 2003, 07:39:24 am »

How is this thing a "cabinet"?

Grr, I hate misleading subject lines!!!!

A desktop controller is commonly just called a joystick around here. What you have is a "joystick box".

Infrasonic · « **Reply #31 on:** April 29, 2003, 02:13:46 pm »

This ambiguity was already addressed, and it was determined that the proper should would henceforth be called a "1-player fighter stick", or something to that effect with the exclusion of the term "cab," and/or "cabinet."

Brax · « **Reply #32 on:** April 29, 2003, 07:47:02 pm »

and so you haven't changed the subject line because.......?

Infrasonic · « **Reply #33 on:** April 29, 2003, 11:06:27 pm »

I don't think so


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