No this is not what I wanted to happen

[smac666]

Hmmm,

Just doing some finishing touches to a minor cab refurbishment last night and was removing the CP plexi to clean underneath when I knocked the wood part of the CP through its opening and into the cabinet. Tried to turn the game on later after I had finished and nothing but a blue screen.

Pulled the back off and found the following.
Noooo.jpg

Looks like the CP caught one (4.7K ohm) resistor bank (I am assuming thats what it is) and smashed the other.

Not happy

So to fix it, I'm guessing I need to replace both the resistors with new ones. They seem to be a 9 pin configuration. Are these common and anyone know a reliable place to get two.

Thanks
Steve

[rovingmind]

if the SIP resistor has a part number on it, see if ECG has a replacement part for it

[ChadTower]

If it is not labeled, get the schematic, and pull the part number from there.

[smac666]

Ok,

I looked at the resistor and it doesn't appear to have a part number on it, nuts

I have looked around, Mike's Arcade, Arcade Archive, ggdb, etc and can't find a schematic for the game.

If anyone knows where I can find a schematic for Capcom's Willow I would appreciate it if they could let me know. Otherwise if someone has a schematic could they please tell me the part number for the Resistor. They are on the top board and are tagged 1E and RA2 respectively on the Board itself.

Thanks
Steve

[rovingmind]

thats a sweet game,

maybe you could ask this guy?  scroll down he has shots of the game and parts, if its his game he has the manual.  It shows in a picture of the parts kit.

[smac666]

When I was on the Arcade Archive I found that manual. It basically just tells you how to install the kit into the game. It doesn't have a parts list or a schematic. Although thanks for helping.

Regards
Steve

[SavannahLion]

So to fix it, I'm guessing I need to replace both the resistors with new ones. They seem to be a 9 pin configuration. Are these common and anyone know a reliable place to get two.

If it's any help, there's a small local electronics store that sells resistor packages in SIP and DIP(?) configuration. I may be wrong, but I think the SIP configuration share common bus while the DIP has their own leads. If you can't find what you need, say at digikey.com or mouser.com and you know the values you need for both packages, I can try the store and see what they have to offer. I was checking their SIP packages out for a project before I realized that a SIP of 8 resistors cost more than eight individual resistors. Meh.

One thing you can do, though I would think it's ugly and hackneyed, is to buy individual resistors and solder them together. A cleaner method would be to solder them on a small daughter board then solder the whole shebang to the board. Still looks ugly, but it would look far less amateurish than a blob of resistors. But only do that if you know for sure how the SIP was configured.

[smac666]

I found a online store that sells 9-pin 4.7Kohm resistors (bussed) so I need to check the tracings and figure out if its that style. Only thing is its rated to 1.13 watts and I'm not sure if thats going to be enough.

Thanks for your help

Steve
 

[Level42]

I'd desolder that SIP first. Then measure the resistance with an ohms meter. It doesn't look like ALL the resistors are damaged.
There is one common pin, must be either on the left or the right side. Put one lead of the meter there, then touch all the other leads. You should be able to get a resistanve value that way, even though two or three may not work ok.

You should be able to get the SIP, but if it fails, you can easily create your own using single resistors.

I think Bob Roberts has a manual on his site....

EDIT....looking again at the picture, it MIGHT be hard to measure this one if the common is on the right side of the picture.........

[smac666]

Ok thanks, I will try that tonight.

If you look at he picture the SIP above the badly damaged one has also taken a hit and that the black coating chipped off down to the metal. Both resistors are marked the same so that one is probably the same as the badly damaged one. So I can measure that one to figue out exactly what it is.

Regards
Steve

[rovingmind]

Then you can fix it    always a good thing

[smac666]

Ahh,

its amazing what you can't see for looking.

So I repaired the network resistor last night, and plugged the board back in and .... nothing.
Same thing as before, nuts.

Looking at the board again and notice that on the solder side right above the damaged resistor there are a couple of little feet sticking out but no component on the other side. You can see it at the missing item jpg at location FB1.
I guess when the damage occured it took the resistor out then totally removed the FB1 component. The sign on the board for it is a little loop the loop line. I looked at the rest of the board and there appear to be a few more on the board but they have no identifying marks on them at all. In missing iso 2.jpg pic the missing item is the one of the grey and blue squares near the jamma connector.

Anybody have any idea what it is??

Thanks
Steve

[FrizzleFried]

Now...this was a WORKING BOARD prior to your little mishap?  What size piece of wood fell through?

[rovingmind]

he said the control panel, that would pack a hefty wallop

[ChadTower]

He's still spinning his wheels without the schematic.

Rather than spend all sorts of time taking pics and asking people for help, get the schematic. 

[smac666]

The CP itself fell through the opening and side swiped the board so it took a heafty wallop.
It was working fine before that no problem. The cab is fine, I tried another board in it.

As for the schematic, if some has it or knows where I can get it from then please let me know I have been looking for it for over a week now at most of the normal sites but no one seems to have it. I have found pin-outs and installation manual but no schematics anywhere.

Regards
Steve

[SavannahLion]

The sign on the board for it is a little loop the loop line. I looked at the rest of the board and there appear to be a few more on the board but they have no identifying marks on them at all.

On some circuit schematics I look at, FB is used to denote a Ferrite Bead, however, on other schematics I looked at, it's used to denote an inductor. The loop-de-loop is used to denote an inductor.

You need the schematic or someone you can take the board to to ID the blue component.

[Kaytrim]

Send an email to Capcom Support for your part of the world and see if they can help you identify the missing part.

http://www.capcom.com/

TTFN
Kaytrim

[smac666]

Ok sent a mail to Capcom support waiting for a reply.
Some told me hat you can replace the part with a 100ohm resistor so I tried that and now the game works fine!!

I'll replace it with the correct part once Capcom respond.

Thanks for all the help
Steve

[Level42]

The loop the loop sign indicates a coil. Is one of leads on the pcb of this coil very close to a connector ?

Usualy these coils are there for filtering out high frequency signals that are induced in wiring. That's why there are so many near that connector on your second picture.

A coil is simply a piece of wire that is wound. For a DC current, a coil means nothing. It's just a simple wire. For AC currents, a coil means a resistance, and thus in this set-up it works as a filter.

You could actualy have tried simply shorting it with a wire, and it probably would have worked as well, but the 100ohms will do fine for now, although it's not filtering out any high frequencies of course.
If you don't run into problems, don't be too bothered about it and enjoy the game

Glad you fixed it !

[ChadTower]

Over here that's called an inductor, as SavannahLion mentioned.

[lkench]

Over here that's called an inductor, as SavannahLion mentioned.

And the round thingy that the wire is looped around is often called a Ferrite Bead.  Whatever you call it, it performs the function described earlier (a filter).

-lkench

[SavannahLion]

I've always kind of wondered why some schematics refer to it as a Ferrite Bead and others refer to it as a Inductor. Now I know. 

[smac666]

Capcom sent me a mail back saying they didn't support boards anymore and to take it to a reputable dealer for repair.

Yeah thanks for that Capcom.

Ahh thats what it was suppose to be.

Looking at the above pics would I be better off getting one of those inductors or will it be fine with the resistor?

Thank
Steve

[Dmod]

Given the location of where it is on the board, it looks like one side of it is going to a fat trace indicating a supply line (either source or ground).  The other side looks like it's going to a connector.

In that scenario, the inductor is usually there to clean up high frequency RF or digital switching noise on the supply line coming/going through the connector.

If you don't see any problems, it should be OK to leave the resistor.  Otherwise, you can try searching digi-key for an inductor that looks to be about the same size and has the same number of coils as any others on your board that look to be serving the same function.

Typically, the inductance value isn't critical as it just determines the passband of the filter.  With a resistor, you essentially have zero inductance and are allowing it to pass all frequencies.

[Level42]

Is it just me, or did I already write the same thing only a couple of postings ago ?

[ChadTower]

You failed to demodulate your target in the process.