Which paint?

[GSXRMovistar]

I

[DeathMonk]

I used a high-quality black semi-gloss, applied with a medium nap roller.  Nice and even.

[marcoval]

Even though that's what it is...   Seriously, I understand. From what I hear, the sanding between coats really helps out quite a bit for that look.

[Justin]

Sorry to barge in this thread, but thought it was ridiculous to cerate a new one for virtually the same question...

Anyhow, I just finished my two coats of white Killz2 *PRIMER* (not paint yet).  I used the finest roller available (according to the HD guy, anyway) and the finish was slightly texturized.  Definitely noticeable, and sanding did little about the texture. (It made it smoother, but it is still visually texturized)
At this point, I think I like the texture a lot, so I'm using the same roller for the paint coats.   This looks so good I barely need to paint!  (I want white, it is a Centipede cabinet)

My question to folks out here:  what type/brand of paint should I use now?  I want it to look pretty much the same as the primer, i.e. not shiny/glossy.  More like matte (maybe a touch shinier, but basically matte).

Is this called 'satin' finish, or is it egshell?  I think gloss is what I do NOT want.   You can tell I know $#@%! about paint, cant you?  

Thanks!
-J

[Ted_Striker]

Satin is commonly used on walls.  So it does have a very slight gloss to it.  If you want exactly like the primer go with a flat paint.  No gloss at all.  Although I would probably pick the satin.  It really isn't that glossy but will look nice.  Semi-gloss is a basic "half gloss".  You use this alot on wood work and trim in houses.   It has gloss, more than the satin but less than the full gloss.  You said no gloss so I'll "gloss" over that description.

Sorry, I'll hang my head in shame over that last one... its late.

Hope that answers your questions.

[Moebius]

*grrrr* - don't you hate it when you have second thoughts about details half-way through to completion?

I'm putting together a stand-up cab with 18mm plywood. Originally, I had planned to stain it (dark mahogany) then varnish, and purchased both.

But I saw a nice-looking silver cab here earlier, and I have a conflict. Go with real-wood look? Go for paint? Sheesh - no-one said it would be this difficult to make these decisions  

[Sshado]

Heh, I keep changing my mind too.  I was going for the nice all wood look with an oak finish to match the rest of my furniture, then I was going to do it black to look more authentic.

My mind changed back and forth till I came up with my (hopefully) final decision...I just hope it turns out the way it is pictured in my head

[unclet]

I too went with a premium black semi-gloss paint and applied it with a nap roller and my cab looks great.  Nothing I ever paint with a brush looks as good in my opinion, but it all depends what your looking for I guess.

I just recently painted my air hockey table sides and trim with a brush and decided to redo it with a roller since I did not like the results...

good luck
unclet

[Chris]

But I saw a nice-looking silver cab here earlier, and I have a conflict. Go with real-wood look? Go for paint? Sheesh - no-one said it would be this difficult to make these decisions  

Here's my thought: One of the points of building an arcade cabinet is for the arcade feel.  I can't remember any arcade cabinets that were stained wood, although a few "generic" cabinets did have wood-grain laminate.

Another thought: Most MAME cabinets tend to get painted black, with black T-molding.  The cabinets we usually consider striking, however, are usually the ones that buck that trend.  If I were redoing my cabinet, I would redo it in blue or deep purple (the other dominant colors in my marquee, bezel and control panel).  If you go with black, maybe consider a colored T-molding (see Motorfish's cabinet).

[rampy]

A few suggestions:

Prime (or seal) first.  I suggest using a kilz primer but get it tinted to a color resembling what you are going to paint over it to save coats. (I had mine tinted grey and it made it easier for coverage when painting black later)

I suggest (YMMV) using oil based paints for extra durability (but you better paint in a well ventilated area)

I used satin sheen black on my cabinet...  I think I woulda rather have gone either entirely flat or semi-gloss in retrospect.

The flatter a paint the more it hides imperfections (that's why most drywall/etc is painted flat or satin)...

*shrug*

rampy