Author Topic: Best (easiest) way to install a marquee (Read 5947 times)

needlesmcgirk · « **on:** January 11, 2007, 03:18:40 pm »

I've been searching the boards to find a nice how-to to install marquees and I can't find any good info. I'm trying to figure out the best way to install one of these. Not sure if I need to get a marquee retainer, or even how those work.

I'm planning on designing the marquee from scratch and getting "Mame Marquees" to print it out, and then sandwiching it between plexiglass. I'm not sure if this is the best thing to do either. Any help would be greatly appreciated, or even a link to someone's project that shows some good detail on how to do this. Thanks so much!

leapinlew · « **Reply #1 on:** January 11, 2007, 03:52:46 pm »

marquee retainers, L-Brackets from Home Depot or Lowes...

I used both marquee retainers and made my own. They are all fine solutions.

needlesmcgirk · « **Reply #2 on:** January 11, 2007, 04:14:08 pm »

Pictures would be great by the way.

Not really sure how you do it will L Brackets. I would love to know the process on that one.

BLah247 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 11, 2007, 05:12:20 pm »

Here's my plan that should work. Place Lbrackets on the left and right side behind where the marquee is going. That will keep it from pushing through... use marquee retainers to keep it from falling forward... No clue if that's going to work. I'll let you know when I get to that point.

leapinlew · « **Reply #4 on:** January 11, 2007, 05:20:54 pm »

The marquee should rest on the wood. You should only need L brackets to keep it from falling forward. If you put L brackets behind it - it'll be dark on that spot when the light is on.

Here is a picture of my cabinet:

The actual size of the hole is 4" the size of the hole + the wood is 5.5". I'll make my marquee art 4" and put a 3/4" border around it. The L brackets I used were 3/4" and cover up the border. It looks like this once it's done.

I used screws to connect the L bracket to the machine. The L brackets hold the art which is sandwiched between 2 peices of plexi.

I used wood L brackets, but if I could do it again, I would use a metal one from Home Depot.

BLah247 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 11, 2007, 05:41:08 pm »

why do you need to put the lbrackets on front? Doesn't the retainer hold it?

ahofle · « **Reply #6 on:** January 11, 2007, 06:12:30 pm »

Those "L Brackets" ARE his retainer.
If you make the marquee overlap the two horizontal pieces on top, you don't have to worry about it 'falling backwards'.

In other words, the marquee should be as tall as the red line in the attached pic.

fjl · « **Reply #7 on:** January 11, 2007, 06:45:41 pm »

Something like this I suppose...

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/1918/01112007154858ti9.png

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #8 on:** January 11, 2007, 07:34:08 pm »

There is a much easier and cheaper way than all of this you know...... Where nothing overlaps the marquee at all.

Just Route a slot in the sides and bottom of the marquee opening about 1/8" deep... and route another slot in the top of the marqee opening right through the thickness of the timber.

Then you can just slot your marquee in from the top of the cabinet. It also makes it easy to change or clean the marquee when you want to.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

BLah247 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 11, 2007, 07:38:28 pm »

See that's why I read this board... I learn stuffs all the time!

I thought about that routing thing but my cab is already together. There's a 6" gap and I used 3/4" plywood so if I get a 7" high marquee I should be good to go?

leapinlew · « **Reply #10 on:** January 11, 2007, 07:43:26 pm »

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on January 11, 2007, 07:34:08 pm

There is a much easier and cheaper way than all of this you know...... Where nothing overlaps the marquee at all.

Just Route a slot in the sides and bottom of the marquee opening about 1/8" deep... and route another slot in the top of the marqee opening right through the thickness of the timber.

Then you can just slot your marquee in from the top of the cabinet. It also makes it easy to change or clean the marquee when you want to.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Cheaper, yes (as long as you already have a router and bit). But it doesn't sound all that easy.

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #11 on:** January 11, 2007, 08:14:10 pm »

Quote from: leapinlew on January 11, 2007, 07:43:26 pm

Cheaper, yes (as long as you already have a router and bit). But it doesn't sound all that easy.

Why is it not easy?? you just set the fence on the router and the slot is the same distance back from the front edge on all sides.

Granted that it's easier to do it before you assemble the cabinet, but it's not rocket science Lew.

Your method works just as well. The only difference being that this way you don't have a border that can't be lit.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

leapinlew · « **Reply #12 on:** January 11, 2007, 08:27:00 pm »

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on January 11, 2007, 08:14:10 pm

Why is it not easy?? you just set the fence on the router and the slot is the same distance back from the front edge on all sides.

Granted that it's easier to do it before you assemble the cabinet, but it's not rocket science Lew.

Your method works just as well. The only difference being that this way you don't have a border that can't be lit.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

It's not easy to me because I can't visualize it. You have a picture? Marquee Retainers is the only way I thought to mount a marquee - I'd like to see this alternate method. It sounds like you slot a groove for the marquee and plexi to sit in, but the way I'm imagining would make it very difficult to get the marquee in and out.

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #13 on:** January 11, 2007, 08:37:05 pm »

Quote from: leapinlew on January 11, 2007, 08:27:00 pm

It's not easy to me because I can't visualize it. You have a picture? Marquee Retainers is the only way I thought to mount a marquee - I'd like to see this alternate method. It sounds like you slot a groove for the marquee and plexi to sit in, but the way I'm imagining would make it very difficult to get the marquee in and out.

I don't have a picture to hand right now.... Yes you slot a groove in the sides and the bottom of the opening.

Then, you slot a hole ( in other words right through) in the top of the cabinet marquee opening... That way the plexi and the marquee itself simply slides in from the top.

Alternatively you could hinge a section of the top of the cabinet right at the front, that you could lift up to drop the marquee in.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

leapinlew · « **Reply #14 on:** January 11, 2007, 08:45:18 pm »

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on January 11, 2007, 08:37:05 pm

I don't have a picture to hand right now.... Yes you slot a groove in the sides and the bottom of the opening.

Then, you slot a hole ( in other words right through) in the top of the cabinet marquee opening... That way the plexi and the marquee itself simply slides in from the top.

Alternatively you could hinge a section of the top of the cabinet right at the front, that you could lift up to drop the marquee in.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Ahh, now I see it. Yeah, I suppose that would work. I guess you'd put T-molding on the exposed edges of the marquee area?

Maybe I'll try it - but it sounds a tad more difficult than cutting a marquee retainer!

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #15 on:** January 12, 2007, 03:39:55 am »

Quote from: leapinlew on January 11, 2007, 08:45:18 pm

I guess you'd put T-molding on the exposed edges of the marquee area?

Yup!

Quote from: leapinlew on January 11, 2007, 08:45:18 pm

Maybe I'll try it - but it sounds a tad more difficult than cutting a marquee retainer!

Well... look at it this way, there are quite a few 80's cabinets that use this method. SkeeBall being one of them.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

NiteWalker · « **Reply #16 on:** January 12, 2007, 05:05:42 am »

If you wanted to put t-molding on the exposed edges on the front of the marquee area you'd have to set the slots the marquee rests in back by about 1/2" so the t-molding barbs don't go past where the slot is interfering with the fit of the marquee. The t-molding barbs protrude about 3/8" I think.

Havok · « **Reply #17 on:** January 12, 2007, 08:20:32 am »

Quote from: Fozzy The Bear on January 11, 2007, 07:34:08 pm

There is a much easier and cheaper way than all of this you know...... Where nothing overlaps the marquee at all.

Just Route a slot in the sides and bottom of the marquee opening about 1/8" deep... and route another slot in the top of the marqee opening right through the thickness of the timber.

Then you can just slot your marquee in from the top of the cabinet. It also makes it easy to change or clean the marquee when you want to.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

Brilliant! That is definitely the way I will do my next machine...

** Oh, crap - hope I didn't say that loud enough so the wife can hear...**

Loki · « **Reply #18 on:** January 12, 2007, 10:25:02 am »

I think it's about the same what I had in mind.
Made a fast model today just to see how it would work out, but stumbled on a small problem.
At the top there is an ugly gap. Maybe you won't notice it, I'm not sure... maybe there will get some light trough it? :S

Anyway, this is what I made
It's a quick job so I didn't pay attention to the measurements. ^^;

NiteWalker · « **Reply #19 on:** January 12, 2007, 11:20:48 am »

I suppose the gap wouldn't be as bad if the top of the cabinet were designed to be a bit closer to flush than depicted. The gap would only be at the top and not too noticeable with the marquee in place. Light may be an issue but not sure if it's enough to matter.

Loki · « **Reply #20 on:** January 12, 2007, 11:52:52 am »

Yeah, you may be right.
I think I'm just a bit too much of a perfectionist

Maybe fit a small piece of wood with some t-mold in the gap would be nice to cover it if it really shows.

Just made some tweaks to the model.... I'm bored anyway :p

ahofle · « **Reply #21 on:** January 12, 2007, 12:04:10 pm »

So how do you access the marquee after you've attached the top cabinet piece. Did you add a hinge? That sure seems like more work than screwing in a couple marquee retainers.

leapinlew · « **Reply #22 on:** January 12, 2007, 12:10:50 pm »

Quote from: Loki on January 12, 2007, 10:25:02 am

I think it's about the same what I had in mind.
Made a fast model today just to see how it would work out, but stumbled on a small problem.
At the top there is an ugly gap. Maybe you won't notice it, I'm not sure... maybe there will get some light trough it? :S

Anyway, this is what I made
It's a quick job so I didn't pay attention to the measurements. ^^;

I suppose You wouldn't even really have to route out the sides of the cabinets if you measure your plexi good.

I'd like to see some pictures of this method before I decide if it's for me. I don't know that I see the benefit. The L brackets cost around $3 and take only a few minutes to do, on the other hand, I do enjoy using the router anytime I can!

Loki · « **Reply #23 on:** January 12, 2007, 12:24:54 pm »

Quote from: ahofle on January 12, 2007, 12:04:10 pm

So how do you access the marquee after you've attached the top cabinet piece. Did you add a hinge? That sure seems like more work than screwing in a couple marquee retainers.

Yeah, like in this pic.

Well, it might be more work, that's for sure, but I guess it's all a matter of taste and I won't mind spending a bit more time on it

ahofle · « **Reply #24 on:** January 12, 2007, 12:33:59 pm »

Quote from: leapinlew on January 12, 2007, 12:10:50 pm

I'd like to see some pictures of this method before I decide if it's for me. I don't know that I see the benefit. The L brackets cost around $3 and take only a few minutes to do, on the other hand, I do enjoy using the router anytime I can!

I think the main benefit is that you don't cover up as much of the marquee. This has not been an issue for me though, as I accounted for the 1/2" or so of covered up space by making sure the marquee is vertically offset 1/2" within the plexi sandwhich so the entire marquee is showing (ie. only the plexi itself is covered).

leapinlew · « **Reply #25 on:** January 12, 2007, 12:34:15 pm »

I don't really see how it's cheaper, easier, or better. But I think I like it. I think Fozzy was talking about cutting a hole all the way through so you could slide the marquee in or out? Not sure...

Fozzy is a real arcade guy - so he might be thinking of real marquee's which are silk screened on a single peice of material. I usually sandwich some vinyl between plexi.

leapinlew · « **Reply #26 on:** January 12, 2007, 12:35:25 pm »

Quote from: ahofle on January 12, 2007, 12:33:59 pm

Quote from: leapinlew on January 12, 2007, 12:10:50 pm
I'd like to see some pictures of this method before I decide if it's for me. I don't know that I see the benefit. The L brackets cost around $3 and take only a few minutes to do, on the other hand, I do enjoy using the router anytime I can!

I think the main benefit is that you don't cover up as much of the marquee. This has not been an issue for me though, as I accounted for the 1/2" or so of covered up space by making sure the marquee is vertically offset 1/2" and centered in the plexi sandwhich so the entire thing is showing (ie. only the plexi itself is covered).

I didn't cover up any of the marquee either. My material was 3/4" and the marquee retainer is 3/4". I would have 4" of marquee displayed either way.

Fozzy The Bear · « **Reply #27 on:** January 12, 2007, 02:14:43 pm »

Quote from: leapinlew on January 12, 2007, 12:34:15 pm

Fozzy is a real arcade guy - so he might be thinking of real marquee's which are silk screened on a single peice of material. I usually sandwich some vinyl between plexi.

It works fine for either a single piece marquee or a sandwich one. You just have to adjust the width of the slot to suit the materials you're using.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

jan25th · « **Reply #28 on:** January 12, 2007, 02:40:01 pm »

I have done this but with no side dado (groove) and the top dado is twice as deep as the bottom so that you can slide the marquee up then lift it out from the bottom.

NiteWalker · « **Reply #29 on:** January 12, 2007, 02:45:08 pm »

^ Very clever. Probably the best method mentioned. And to think, when I used to work at taco bell the signs were changed the same way. Sometimes the answer's right in front of you...

The key thing there is to make sure your marquee is cut very accurately to avoid light shining through the sides.

needlesmcgirk · « **Reply #30 on:** January 12, 2007, 02:52:50 pm »

I'm starting to think that the Happs Marquee Retainers are the way to go. I think Leapinlew's wooden L Bracket is pretty cool too, but I have never seen an L Bracket out of wood that works like that at all. I'll have to take a look next time I'm at Lowes'Homedepot. I think I like that the Marquee Retainers are made of PVC as well.

I don't have a router so the solution you guys are talking about probably won't work out for me. I also want to cover up the front side of the top panel above the marquee anyway because the paint looks terrible there since its not a smooth side, so the retainer will make it look more professional.

ahofle · « **Reply #31 on:** January 12, 2007, 03:14:00 pm »

Quote from: NiteWalker on January 12, 2007, 02:45:08 pm

The key thing there is to make sure your marquee is cut very accurately to avoid light shining through the sides.

Another good tip I read here a while back to prevent some light shining through (for either marquee mounting method)...use a black permanent marker like a sharpie to black out the sides of the plexiglass. Works surprisingly well to keep excess light on the sides of the marquee from shining through.

NiteWalker · « **Reply #32 on:** January 12, 2007, 03:19:25 pm »

^ Another excellent tip.

This thread is becoming a very useful repository of information regarding marquee installation.

fjl · « **Reply #33 on:** January 12, 2007, 05:23:34 pm »

I don't think I would like the hinge version since this would make the top part of the cabinet pretty weak. What if someone puts something heavy on top of it? You'll end up breaking your marquee and perhaps the hinge part and even the fluorescent light inside.

For me, I'm looking to make my cabinet sustain many types of beatings that could arise as a regular stand up coin machine. Even if it will be just for my own personal use.

Loki · « **Reply #34 on:** January 12, 2007, 06:01:06 pm »

Well that is an easy one to solve I guess... just put some L-brackets on both sides (inside) to support it.
As long as you won't sit on it it will be ok

leapinlew · « **Reply #35 on:** January 12, 2007, 06:40:44 pm »

Quote from: needlesmcgirk on January 12, 2007, 02:52:50 pm

I have never seen an L Bracket out of wood that works like that at all.

I'm calling them L brackets, because when they are made of metal thats what they are called. When made of wood and sold with the rest of the wood trim it's called Outside Corner Trim. Cost about $1 per foot.


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