Author Topic: Joust cocktail Plans (Read 36400 times)

fixedpigs · « **Reply #80 on:** January 30, 2007, 11:15:07 am »

no worries jeffo...

i'm going to put all of my photos with measurement requests in one post to make it easy...
i don't know why i didn't do this before...

i realise that some of my measurement requests may seem redundant...please bear with me...it's kind of like that whole 'measure twice' theory...

here's a list so you can just copy & paste...
A - 9 1/4"
B - 2 1/2"
C - 1 7/8"
D - 1 7/8"
E - 1 1/8"
F - 11 1/12"
G - 2 15/16"
H - 3 3/4" to top of lock (which is counter-sunk)
I - 1 13/16"
J - 7/8" recessed by 3/4" (it's the door stop)
K - 3 3/4"
L - 2 3/4"
M - wasn't sure what this was, but it is 1 1/2 inch from inner wall to the monitor mount
N - 1/4"
O - 1"
P - 7 3/16"
Q - 15 1/4"
R - 6 15/16"
S - 13 3/8"
T - 10"
U - 2 7/8"
V - 1/4"
W -
X - 1/4"
Y - 7 1/2"
Z - 2 3/8"

NOTE: Measurements AA, BB and CC are taken EXCLUDING the shroud (e.g. are measured on the lid). The shroud decreases the visible area by 1 1/2" on either side, 1/2" near the hinge (e.g. above CC) and 3" at the top (e.g. closest to front when lid is closed).

AA - 18 1/2"
BB - 15 1/2
CC - 2 1/2"
DD - 26 3/4"
EE - 16 5/8"
FF - 14 7/8"
GG - 7 3/4"
HH - 18 1/2"
II - 3 3/4"
JJ - 6 1/4"
KK - 13 1/2"
LL - 6 1/2"
MM - 1/4"
NN - 21 1/4"
OO -
PP - 2 3/4"
QQ - 2 1/2"
RR - 4"

thank you once again...

spacies · « **Reply #81 on:** January 30, 2007, 04:48:14 pm »

Quote from: CheffoJeffo on January 30, 2007, 08:56:58 am

Sorry, gus ... got waylayed again. will get the outstanding measurements up as soon as I can.

I the meantime, maybe someone is local and wants to save this poor, mistreated, badly-converted Joust cocktail:

EBay - Joust cocktail in Reno

Cheers

I wonder how much shipping to New Zealand would be?

Virgil Tracy · « **Reply #82 on:** February 03, 2007, 03:29:23 pm »

I have been watching this thread with interest, I have never seen a joust cocktail but I am now thinking of building one. Thanks for all the information

fixedpigs · « **Reply #83 on:** February 09, 2007, 01:51:16 pm »

just a reminder jeffo...!

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=58532.msg622920#msg622920

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #84 on:** February 09, 2007, 01:54:05 pm »

Thanks ... should be this weekend ... just finished (last night) the last crush on a gruelling 8 month project that was holding up all manner of important things (like these measurements and more than one arcade project).

Cheers

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #85 on:** February 11, 2007, 03:20:04 pm »

A - 9 1/4"
B - 2 1/2"
C - 1 7/8"
D - 1 7/8"
E - 1 1/8"
F - 11 1/12"
G - 2 15/16"
H - 3 3/4" to top of lock (which is counter-sunk)
I - 1 13/16"
J - 7/8" recessed by 3/4" (it's the door stop)
K - 3 3/4"
L - 2 3/4"
M - wasn't sure what this was, but it is 1 1/2 inch from inner wall to the monitor mount
N - 1/4"
O - 1"
P - 7 3/16"
Q - 15 1/4"
R - 6 15/16"
S - 13 3/8"
T - 10"
U - 2 7/8"
V - 1/4"
W -
X - 1/4"
Y - 7 1/2"
Z - 2 3/8"

NOTE: Measurements AA, BB and CC are taken EXCLUDING the shroud (e.g. are measured on the lid). The shroud decreases the visible area by 1 1/2" on either side, 1/2" near the hinge (e.g. above CC) and 3" at the top (e.g. closest to front when lid is closed).

AA - 18 1/2"
BB - 15 1/2
CC - 2 1/2"
DD - 26 3/4"
EE - 16 5/8"
FF - 14 7/8"
GG - 7 3/4"
HH - 18 1/2"
II - 3 3/4"
JJ - 6 1/4"
KK - 13 1/2"
LL - 6 1/2"
MM - 1/4"
NN - 21 1/4"
OO -
PP - 2 3/4"
QQ - 2 1/2"
RR - 4"

NO worries about any "redundant" measurements ... I am measuring with a metal ruler and a tape on an assembled cab (calipers on a disassembled cab would be much easier) and am bound to make mistakes, so ask me to double-check if things aren't working out.

Apologies again for the delay -- I didn't mean to break up the momentum you guys had going!

Cheers

Tailgunner · « **Reply #86 on:** February 11, 2007, 10:58:09 pm »

Don't sweat it, and thanks for going above and beyond the call of duty to take all of these measurements.

fixedpigs · « **Reply #87 on:** February 12, 2007, 01:25:16 pm »

good work jeffo...

here's a question for you...
how much overlap does the top have over the base...?
it looks to be 1/4" in most places...but something doesn't seem right with where the top/lid overlaps the kickpanels...my model shows 1"...is that right...?

thanks...!

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #88 on:** February 12, 2007, 01:29:31 pm »

By my measurement, it is 3/4" overhang over the kick panels.

spacies · « **Reply #89 on:** March 13, 2007, 12:32:52 am »

How are we going on these plans?

Wouldn't mind having a crack at this soon.

Jakobud · « **Reply #90 on:** March 13, 2007, 02:40:28 am »

Sup guys,

Believe it or not I have some partial Joust Cocktail plans I was working on back in late 2004 that have been sitting on my machine untouched since then. Want me to upload or anything?

Virgil Tracy · « **Reply #91 on:** March 13, 2007, 06:11:44 am »

Quote from: Jakobud on March 13, 2007, 02:40:28 am

. Want me to upload or anything?

Yes please

fixedpigs · « **Reply #92 on:** March 13, 2007, 11:20:16 am »

hey jakobud...

that would be great...

my momentum seriously got slowed down as other things started happening...

and now that warmer weather is here...it will be even more difficult for me to find the time...

i'll try my best to get it wrapped up this month...

modessitt · « **Reply #93 on:** March 14, 2007, 02:46:18 pm »

Haven't seen any measurement needs posted in the past month so don't know how this project is still going, but I can provide measurements from my Joust cocktail as well if needed.

All original, given to me for FREE by some lady who was tired of it sitting in her family room and not working. Turns out just the vertical hold was messed up. Rebuilt the monitor and power supply and had a great game.

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #94 on:** March 14, 2007, 02:52:58 pm »

Quote from: modessitt on March 14, 2007, 02:46:18 pm

Haven't seen any measurement needs posted in the past month so don't know how this project is still going, but I can provide measurements from my Joust cocktail as well if needed.

All original, given to me for FREE by some lady who was tired of it sitting in her family room and not working. Turns out just the vertical hold was messed up. Rebuilt the monitor and power supply and had a great game.

WOW! Nice deal.

And a volunteer ... go get 'im guys!

modessitt · « **Reply #95 on:** March 15, 2007, 10:58:04 pm »

Gee, thanks.

A great game, although I've been vascillating on whether to replace the glass as it has a few scratches. Not bad, but would be nice to have it looking pristine.

My favorite part is seeing the control panel "marquees" light up in the dark!

Wish we could get a hard number on exactly how many of these were built originally.

modessitt · « **Reply #96 on:** March 18, 2007, 02:05:37 pm »

Just in case someone is tripping over money and can't wait....

Quarterarcade has a restored original Joust cocktail for sale on their website.

Price? A hefty $1995.00!

Makes the one I got for free look even better now.

Tailgunner · « **Reply #97 on:** March 23, 2007, 10:56:57 pm »

fixedpigs sent me a copy of his model, that'll save me a whole bunch of time not having to model stuff he's allready gotten done. I'll play with it this weekend, we should have a buildable set of plans shortly.

fixedpigs · « **Reply #98 on:** March 23, 2007, 11:53:22 pm »

yeah...

the top is dead on perfect...

i was having trouble getting the base's measurements to jive with each other in perfect harmony though...

Tailgunner · « **Reply #99 on:** March 24, 2007, 02:50:03 pm »

I've got FP's model imported and converted from a mesh object to a NURBS object. Now I can get somewhere.

If either CJ or modessitt can take another pic, there's one area that's still puzzling me. The pics below show what I'm after, it's the area between the front edge of the monitor and the back of the kick panel behind the coin box. I also could use a measurement from the top of the kick panel down to where the monitor support attaches. FP marked it as OO and I'll stick with his labling system.

modessitt · « **Reply #100 on:** March 24, 2007, 03:59:40 pm »

Took some pics. Let me get them loaded onto my computer and add the graphics showing what you want and I'll have them on in about 30 mins.

I've got my monitor and boards stripped out of the game at the moment (monitor will be replaced by new and needed the boards to test an upright that had problems) so I have easy access to the entire inside of the cabinet.

Hold on....too much info headed your way....

bfauska · « **Reply #101 on:** March 24, 2007, 04:13:12 pm »

Hey, is the travel on those joysticks parallel with the cp or the monitor (you know... the ever popular angled joystick debate?)

I really like the look of this machine, I may see if I can plan one out with a rotating monitor for a multi-emulator machine.

If in the process I make any CAD drawings I'll share if anybodys interested, probably in a different thread as it would not be a replica, but the style is super cool.

Later,
Brian

Edit: Adjusted the style of machine I said I was going to make to broaden the options and avoid implying that one emulator in particular is the only reason to build a cabinet.

spacies · « **Reply #102 on:** March 24, 2007, 04:47:19 pm »

Don't forget to make some plans available in metric please fellas.

Tailgunner · « **Reply #103 on:** March 24, 2007, 06:45:10 pm »

Quote from: modessitt on March 24, 2007, 03:59:40 pm

Hold on....too much info headed your way....

Cool deal, the monitor hides a lot in the area I'm interested in. Pics without it in the way will be quite helpful.

@bfauska: Check the pics CJ took of the CP underside on page 2, the sticks are parallel with the CPs and angled in relation to the monitor.

@spacies: metric won't be a problem. Once everything is good I'll break the model down flat and dimension all the individual panels.

modessitt · « **Reply #104 on:** March 24, 2007, 07:53:21 pm »

Okay... sorry it took so long but I decided to get a little over-detailed in case you really wanted this to look as original as possible. (I did warn about too much info coming.)

Only good thing is I've decided this game needs a good cleaning out before I put everything back in.

Here is the top down view showing the inside of the kickpanel behind the coin box.

And here is a different angle:

This shows the spacing question you asked for. Sorry if they're not labeled OO and what not, but you should be able to apply it into your plans.

In case you want to build in the monitor bracket supports, I included the measurements for those as well. Here are the overall dimensions:

It has an interesting shape, as you can see from above. Sorry about the small font size on this one. The measurements read left to right: 1/2", 2", 5/8":

Here is the proper positioning from the right inside wall:

Here is the support for the rear right:

And the proper positioning:

If you want to properly reconstruct the wooden monitor bracket, here is the back-side view with all the major measurements:

And here is the top view, just with reference measurements. Notice the grooves cut into the ends:

And finally, how to cut those grooves:

Hope This helps everyone. If you need higher resolution pics, close-up, or see something in the pics you need more info on, let me know.

--Modessitt

modessitt · « **Reply #105 on:** March 24, 2007, 07:56:02 pm »

And I should have mentioned.....

The left hand side is a mirror image of the right hand side.

So there.....

modessitt · « **Reply #106 on:** March 24, 2007, 08:10:31 pm »

Oh, and to show that is WAS nice at some time (except for some minor coin door damage)

Tailgunner · « **Reply #107 on:** March 25, 2007, 12:17:33 am »

Can you get me a chemical analysis of the grunge layer that's in the bottom?

Okay, that'd be too much information.

Very well done and highly appreciated.

modessitt · « **Reply #108 on:** March 25, 2007, 12:54:20 am »

Quote from: Tailgunner on March 25, 2007, 12:17:33 am

Can you get me a chemical analysis of the grunge layer that's in the bottom?

Ok, now that's funny...

Tailgunner · « **Reply #109 on:** March 25, 2007, 01:59:40 pm »

Could use one more pic, basically a repeat of this one but with the coin doors open. Need the dimension shown in the lower pic as well.

modessitt · « **Reply #110 on:** March 25, 2007, 03:27:28 pm »

ok.....gimme a bit and I'll get 'em

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #111 on:** March 25, 2007, 03:51:07 pm »

Props to modessitt ...

modessitt · « **Reply #112 on:** March 25, 2007, 04:37:20 pm »

Thanks Swedish Chef......

ok.....here ya go....

Here's the pic with the front door open, along with some measurements on the shelf spacing:

And here is the detailed measurements on the upper shelf. I know you just asked for the depth, but I've always been guilty of TMI so.....

Guess there has been one good thing for why it's taken me so long to get around to putting this thing back together....

fixedpigs · « **Reply #113 on:** March 25, 2007, 05:37:14 pm »

excellent...!

my intention was to make a perfect replica...so there is no such thing as too much information...-=)

very good pics and documentation...

Tailgunner · « **Reply #114 on:** March 25, 2007, 09:16:31 pm »

Quote from: fixedpigs on March 25, 2007, 05:37:14 pm

excellent...!

my intention was to make a perfect replica...so there is no such thing as too much information...-=)

very good pics and documentation...

^^^What he said.

I can't imagine there's anything left we can't figure out from here, though if you want to roll the cab onto it's back, take a pic and dimension the bottom panel...

modessitt · « **Reply #115 on:** March 26, 2007, 01:50:49 am »

Seriously?

I guess I could as it's empty....

Just in case it's not a joke, it's exactly the dimensions of the insides of all the walls, as they attach to it, not the other way around, and it is basically suspended inside.

And in case you didn't know, all the corners are sorta dove-tailed with interlocking slots, kinda like Lincoln Logs. If you're old enough to remember those.....

Tailgunner · « **Reply #116 on:** March 26, 2007, 12:49:13 pm »

Quote from: modessitt on March 26, 2007, 01:50:49 am

Seriously?

I guess I could as it's empty....

I wouldn't mind having it documented, it should clear up things and possibly expose something we're missing. Were the monitor and boards in the cab I wouldn't even joke about it. Still, it's a lot to ask and totally you call on doing so, you're already well beyond the call of duty and we should be able to get by without it.

Quote

Just in case it's not a joke, it's exactly the dimensions of the insides of all the walls, as they attach to it, not the other way around, and it is basically suspended inside.

That's why it'd be helpful, some of the numbers don't add up as they're taken from places where there is no hard edge to measure from. The bottom largely defines the basic shape of the cab and unlike the top it doesn't overlap anything.

And in case you didn't know, all the corners are sorta dove-tailed with interlocking slots, kinda like Lincoln Logs. If you're old enough to remember those.....
[/quote]

I'm older then Pong, so yep I remember Lincoln logs.

Building an exact duplicate of this cab will be a stone cold ---smurfette---, just from the complexity of some of the cuts needed. Midway did much the same with the original Pacman cocktails, which is why everyone who want a Midway cocktail builds the simpler Ms. Pac design.

modessitt · « **Reply #117 on:** March 26, 2007, 02:13:26 pm »

Quote

I wouldn't mind having it documented, it should clear up things and possibly expose something we're missing. Were the monitor and boards in the cab I wouldn't even joke about it. Still, it's a lot to ask and totally you call on doing so, you're already well beyond the call of duty and we should be able to get by without it.

That's why it'd be helpful, some of the numbers don't add up as they're taken from places where there is no hard edge to measure from. The bottom largely defines the basic shape of the cab and unlike the top it doesn't overlap anything.

No problem. I'll take care of it tonight when I get home.

modessitt · « **Reply #118 on:** March 26, 2007, 11:24:25 pm »

Sorry it took so long.

Here is the pic, then I'll follow with some explanations:

According to the red lines, the sides of the coin door area slip under the bottom as extra support in the middle. They touch the floor and rise up to be attached to the base, and the base extends between them to be attached to them. Sorry if that sounds confusing.

The white outline of the base extends under (when looking from underneath) these supports and is difficult to measure accurately, so I may be off by as much as 1/8".

The white square on the left is a wooden foot. It measures 2" x 2" x 1 1/2", which is interesting because it is only 1 1/2" high and the base sits 1 3/4" off the floor. There is a hole in the wood so maybe it had a metal foot at some point? Obviously I am missing the other feet and have marked their positions with the circles. Don't know as they need to be exact in placement, but if so, let me know.

The green shows how to properly position the power switch/cord holes. Measure down from the back corner, then out at a 90 degree angle to the center point of the hole.

Anything else?

*Note to self: In the future, when turning a game that you have stripped upside/down, make sure to collect all the loose screws and bolts before turning said game upside/down.*

fixedpigs · « **Reply #119 on:** March 26, 2007, 11:56:58 pm »

fantastic modessitt...!

how far in/up does the bottom panel sit from the ground...?

your documentation is top-notch...-=)


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