New Product: TurboTwist

[pointdablame]

Ok, I'm now taking orders.  Let me know the next thing you want Randy to design.  It's gotta be expensive.  I'll order it from someone else, and then Randy will come out with it a few weeks later.

hehe.

Looks nice.

LOL

This is pretty much THE REASON I haven't bought an arcade part in months... I keep hoping Randy will run out of ideas... at least for a little while.  (that and the fact that I don't have any money right now... but the first reason is funnier)

So Randy... are you done for now?  Or are there more new products within the next few weeks?   

[Tiger-Heli]

Ok, I'm now taking orders.  Let me know the next thing you want Randy to design.  It's gotta be expensive.  I'll order it from someone else, and then Randy will come out with it a few weeks later.
hehe.
Looks nice.

Repro Star Wars Yoke 
DOT version of Turbo-Twist 
Repro Tron Sticks 
Cheaper Rotary Joystick options 
Edit - Lightgun that works with all games and all screens from less than 5 feet away

[RetroACTIVE]

I'm getting this to replace my Tornado...

I have my spinner right above the trackball, a friend of mine slammed into it playing a golf game... I didn't realize it at first, but the hit popped the upper bearing loose...  Thought he busted his hand...turns out he broke the spinner instead.

I'm excited because I will be moving the trackball interface to the opti-wiz which will eliminate a USB connection...!  mmmm fewer cables...

Thanks Randy

[RandyT]

I'm excited because I will be moving the trackball interface to the opti-wiz which will eliminate a USB connection...!  mmmm fewer cables...

A quick note;  anyone wishing to do this should select the "Z Axis" option when ordering.  Then use the X and Y axes for the trackball as normal.

Because of the very high resolution of the spinner, it will still work well in unmodified MAME builds at low sensitivity settings.  For best results, however, a version with the "Z-Axis fix" is ideal.  I think MikeQ will be adding this to PowerMAME eventually.  For more information on this, take a look at the Opti-Wiz product announcement thread.

BTW, the spinners are now available at the store...

RandyT

[RetroACTIVE]

Because of the very high resolution of the spinner, it will still work well in unmodified MAME builds at low sensitivity settings.  For best results, however, a version with the "Z-Axis fix" is ideal.

Oh definitely... I've been eyeballing all of the Opti-Wiz ...z-axis ...PowerMAME chat for some time now...

Thanks again

[Slope]

I've watched the boards here for awhile and have plans almost done to build my cab...  Ended up take some time off for real life, when I came back I was shocked to see Oscar wasn't here 

Then I ran across this and all seemed well.    My question though is that the control panel I want to make has a trackball and two spinners.  The Opti-Pac could switch between them, can this do something similar?  Basically, how can I hook up a trackball and two of these spinners?

Thanks.

[markrvp]

One way is to use one Optiwiz for your trackball and then use two of these spinners.  Your computer would recognize them as three mice which would all be active at the same time.  Map one spinner to the X axis and one spinner to the Y axis.

[Tiger-Heli]

/|\
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 - - - That's a FIFTH way to do it.

I've watched the boards here for awhile and have plans almost done to build my cab...  Ended up take some time off for real life, when I came back I was shocked to see Oscar wasn't here 

Then I ran across this and all seemed well.    My question though is that the control panel I want to make has a trackball and two spinners.  The Opti-Pac could switch between them, can this do something similar?  Basically, how can I hook up a trackball and two of these spinners?

Thanks.

AFAIK - there are no games that used a trackball and a spinner together.  You have to decide how you want the trackball and spinners to operate, but I see 4 possible ways to do it:

1)  Wire the trackball to an Opti-Wiz on the X and Y axes, and the spinners to a second opti-wiz on the X and Y axes - The spinner and trackball will both control the cursor, but since you never use them at the same time . . .

2)  Wire the trackball to an Opti-Wiz on the X and Y axes, and the spinners to the Z axes on the primary and secondary Opti-Wiz's.  With this method, you have to map games to use the spinner instead of the trackball, and you may need something like MAME Analog Plus or Advance MAME for the second Z axes spinner.

3)  Wire the trackball to an Opti-Wiz on the X and Y axes, one spinner to the Z axis on the primary Opti-Wiz, and one spinner to the X axis on the secondary opti-wiz.  (The advantage to this is the second spinner would fight with the trackball, but would work fine for single spinner games, so you would only need to reconfigure dual spinner games (and I don't think you would need a dual-mouse MAME to do so).

4)  I would want RandyT's advice on this, but you might be able to hook up Happ optic boards or the BYO optic boards shown here: http://www.ultimarc.com/optipac4.html or otherwise bypass the "brains" on the Opti-Wiz attached to the TurboTwist's and connect them and the trackball to the Opti-Pac and use it's auto-switching function.

(I might have missed something . . .)

[markrvp]

Is it obvious I'm a gadget guy?  I like lots of shiny things.  The more, the better.

[kkingsto]

Sounds cool.   Will it work with Ultimarc's OptiPac??   

[markrvp]

It could, but you would need to hack the optic sensors to do it.  It is really designed as a stand-alone unit that  can have additional optical devices connected to it, and not the other way around.

[lovespicyfood]

A quick note;  anyone wishing to do this should select the "Z Axis" option when ordering.  Then use the X and Y axes for the trackball as normal.

Oh crud, my "newbieness" is showing...

Randy, I just ordered one of these last night with the "X" axis and it already shipped today.  I was planning on using a trackball with it.  Is there a way for me to modify it myself for "Z" axis or am I going to have to ship it back to you for that modification (and payment of course) or will I just have to re-map in Mame?

Thanks for your help!

[RandyT]

A quick note;  anyone wishing to do this should select the "Z Axis" option when ordering.  Then use the X and Y axes for the trackball as normal.

Randy, I just ordered one of these last night with the "X" axis and it already shipped today.  I was planning on using a trackball with it.  Is there a way for me to modify it myself for "Z" axis or am I going to have to ship it back to you for that modification (and payment of course) or will I just have to re-map in Mame?

If you have a soldering iron and a little solder wick, it's not hard at all.  There are pads that configure the device.  Just use the solder wick to soak up the little bit of solder on the X axis pads and then put a drop on the Z axis pads to bridge them. Even a first time solderer should be able to do this with very little difficulty.

It should be pretty clear what needs to be done when you see the board.

RandyT

[lovespicyfood]

If you have a soldering iron and a little solder wick, it's not hard at all.  There are pads that configure the device.  Just use the solder wick to soak up the little bit of solder on the X axis pads and then put a drop on the Z axis pads to bridge them. Even a first time solderer should be able to do this with very little difficulty.
It should be pretty clear what needs to be done when you see the board.
RandyT

Thanks a lot Randy, that sounds easy!

[AllisterFiend]

I'm excited because I will be moving the trackball interface to the opti-wiz which will eliminate a USB connection...!  mmmm fewer cables...

A quick note;  anyone wishing to do this should select the "Z Axis" option when ordering.  Then use the X and Y axes for the trackball as normal.

Because of the very high resolution of the spinner, it will still work well in unmodified MAME builds at low sensitivity settings.  For best results, however, a version with the "Z-Axis fix" is ideal.  I think MikeQ will be adding this to PowerMAME eventually.  For more information on this, take a look at the Opti-Wiz product announcement thread.

BTW, the spinners are now available at the store...

RandyT

Hey Randy,

  I need a little info on my situation.

I currently have 1 spinner and one trackball on my control panel, I am about to redo my control panel to have 2 spinners and two trackballs.

I want to get rid of the other spinner ( oscar push spinner, never really use the push option) and get 2 of yours.

I would like to have the trackballs working off the optiwiz on the spinners, is this possible, and if so, would I need to get 2 spinners with the "z" axes.


Edit:

I just re-read the comments by tiger-heli and I think I get it now, my real concern was will all this work with two trackballs but I'm sure it will now as long as PowerMAME implements it into their build otherwise I might have to look into MAME Analog Plus (I think that is the name).

Allister Fiend

[saint]

How hard/expensive to switch that to a jumper so that people could easily switch around at will?

A quick note;  anyone wishing to do this should select the "Z Axis" option when ordering.  Then use the X and Y axes for the trackball as normal.

Randy, I just ordered one of these last night with the "X" axis and it already shipped today.  I was planning on using a trackball with it.  Is there a way for me to modify it myself for "Z" axis or am I going to have to ship it back to you for that modification (and payment of course) or will I just have to re-map in Mame?

If you have a soldering iron and a little solder wick, it's not hard at all.  There are pads that configure the device.  Just use the solder wick to soak up the little bit of solder on the X axis pads and then put a drop on the Z axis pads to bridge them. Even a first time solderer should be able to do this with very little difficulty.

It should be pretty clear what needs to be done when you see the board.

RandyT

[RandyT]

How hard/expensive to switch that to a jumper so that people could easily switch around at will?

The problem is board space.  There are two 1/2" wide areas on the board where there can be no thru-components so only the top surface is available.  It is in one of these areas that the axis configuration pads are located.  So the answer is, "very."

However, if one were so inclined, they could attach wires to the board at the pads and hook in a switch.  But I would expect that re-configuration would be done seldom enough that a switch would be a bit of an overkill.

FWIW, I've changed the axis about 5 times on my test unit during development and it took less than 30 seconds each time.

For those who find this type of solder-less configuration desireable for experimentation, or whathaveyou, you may wish to wait until I get the "slave" spinner option up at the store.  It will basically be a brain-less version of the spinner intended for connection to another TurboTwist with a free axis or an Opti-Wiz.  You can try it with other optical interfaces as well, but there is so much data being pumped by the spinner, acceptable results won't be guaranteed on anything other than one of our interfaces.

In any event, you could then connect the "brain-less" spinner to an Opti-Wiz and have it use any axis you want based on the pins you attach it to. This, of course, would be a more expensive way to do this kind of thing, but it's an option.

RandyT

[brandon]

so would it be possible to connect, for example, an Arkanoid spinner as a slave to the TurboTwist?  maybe have the TT be Z and the other X or Y?   

[Xiaou2]

 Currious,  whats the tooth count on the optical encoder?  Any pics of it?  Thanks.

 It would be nice to be able to have an encoder that can select the correct arcade controller "True  tooth ratio".     IE:  A quick count on teeth for my disc's of tron spinner is about 120  for a full knob turn.

  Youve mentioned that the hardware does not miss any signals..  which is very good to hear...   But isnt much  of the  loss caused by windows and the actual game (and or emulator)  programming itself?

 IE:  If  a game is running too slow a frame rate cause  the   pc is underpowered.. and the programmer didnt  take it into  cosideration.. then the  Mouse Polling may be delayed or most likly lost on many occassions....?

 I believe win XP has more frequent most polling than win98se  for instance.   Not sure if  theres a way to speed windows mouse pollings up.

 Any finally, theres a question about direct signal -vs- the way windows mice actually read.   Im just currious if theres a big difference in the way certain arcade machines are reading the optics compared to a typical mouse?   I mean, the mouse itself has a built in processor correct?   Whereas an arcade machine may compute things on the actual PCB - or in software itself?  Maybe in a different way altogether...?

 Ohh, one more... Can a device be turned off temporarily.. maybe via a button press ?  My controlller will have several controls.. and I will want to disable non used controlls in case others are vibrtated into motion.   Im not a fan of the 'sleep' method used in another encoder.

  Maybe use of a special  'function'  button being pressed and combined with other key presses to equal changes in settings for:

* Enable/Disable device... 
* Resolution (simulated tooth count values)  20,52,100,120 (Rolls back to 20..)ect.
* Change Axis   X,Y,Z
 
 Cant think of anything else right now.

 

[RandyT]

so would it be possible to connect, for example, an Arkanoid spinner as a slave to the TurboTwist?  maybe have the TT be Z and the other X or Y?   

While I haven't tried this combination, the Opti-Wiz was tested with an Arkanoid spinner and it worked fine.  I have no reason to believe that it wouldn't do the same with the TurboTwist.

RandyT

[Fozzy The Bear]

Randy... Sorry mate.. don't know if you misssed it, but what would the shipping to the UK be on one of these please??

Any update on this?.

Well, we haven't put the whole thing in a box with packing and cable, but I'm going to estimate that shipping to the UK for one unit will be right around $14.75 US, possibly a little less.  Once it is up at the store, the software will let you calculate the postage from the shopping cart screen.  This will give you more exact figures.

RandyT

Thanks Randy!! I'll be ordering as soon as I can persuade my other half that she really would like one!!     

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

[arzoo]

Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison between the TurboTwist and the Tornado? Will the resolution of either of these spinners accurately simulate the original spinners in games like Tron and Tempest?

[RandyT]

A quick count on teeth for my disc's of tron spinner is about 120  for a full knob turn.

The TurboTwist is higher resolution.

  Youve mentioned that the hardware does not miss any signals..  which is very good to hear...   But isnt much  of the  loss caused by windows and the actual game (and or emulator)  programming itself?

 IE:  If  a game is running too slow a frame rate cause  the   pc is underpowered.. and the programmer didnt  take it into  cosideration.. then the  Mouse Polling may be delayed or most likly lost on many occassions....?

 I believe win XP has more frequent most polling than win98se  for instance.   Not sure if  theres a way to speed windows mouse pollings up.

Windows mouse functions are right up there on the priority list, so the whole system would be experiencing some difficulties before Windows interrupted mouse function.  And 98SE works just fine with no loss.

Also, all hardware is not created equal.  If the hardware is too slow, as is often the case with cheap mouse hacks or overtaxed processors, it will not sense every transition correctly.  The result is most often "backspin."  This is the absolute worst problem because it cannot be easily corrected for.

The issue you mention with the game software is never a real problem.  This is remedied by simply reducing the sensitivity settings.  As the hardware is functioning properly, it's still sending the proper movement information, apparently just too much.  Reducing sensitivity to just below the point where backspin occurs fixes the issue.  Tempest seems to be a title that is most affected by this.

Any finally, theres a question about direct signal -vs- the way windows mice actually read.   Im just currious if theres a big difference in the way certain arcade machines are reading the optics compared to a typical mouse?   I mean, the mouse itself has a built in processor correct?   Whereas an arcade machine may compute things on the actual PCB - or in software itself?  Maybe in a different way altogether...?

There's pretty much only one way to read a quadrature encoder wheel.  The hardware produces a stream of relative positional data derived from the pulse train.  What the software does with it afterwards is up to it, and in the case of emulation the emulator would translate that relative positional data back into the pulse train, so it would be handled pretty close to the original hardware.  In other words, if the original hardware averaged the data from the pulse train, it will still do that.  But a mouse, spinner, trackball and trackroller all make the same data.  There's no magic there.

Ohh, one more... Can a device be turned off temporarily.. maybe via a button press ?  My controlller will have several controls.. and I will want to disable non used controlls in case others are vibrtated into motion.   Im not a fan of the 'sleep' method used in another encoder.

If anyone wants to do this, I can provide information on how to simply add a disable switch to the unit. 

*edit*

The other option is to use a separate axis or use a version of the software and OS that can properly differentiate two mouse controls.  No possibility of interaction between controls this way.  My favorite option would be to use the spinner as the Z axis with a version of MAME that deals with the sensitivity issue.  Not only does it physically separate the axis from the trackball, but it also makes a way nifty scroll wheel for list navigation.

  Maybe use of a special  'function'  button being pressed and combined with other key presses to equal changes in settings for:

* Enable/Disable device... 

Can be handled with a physical switch.

* Resolution (simulated tooth count values)  20,52,100,120 (Rolls back to 20..)ect.

Would be redundant, as virtually all software that uses a mouse for input also has a sensitivity setting which does the same thing.

* Change Axis   X,Y,Z
 

Can already be easily handled with a soldering iron.  The ability to change this often would be most attractive to the "tinkerers" and adding a drop of solder to the board should be no problem for this group.  The other 95% won't care.

I appreciate the thoughts and suggestions, but truthfully, these things have already been considered and the product is the result of those design decisions. 

RandyT

[Havok]

I'm sure I missed something so far, but if you have to solder the OptiWiz to change the X, Y or Z axis support, how do you enable for all three? Would that just be adding another drop (or two) of solder?

I plan on using this spinner and a trackball in the same panel...

[markrvp]

I'm sure I missed something so far, but if you have to solder the OptiWiz to change the X, Y or Z axis support, how do you enable for all three? Would that just be adding another drop (or two) of solder?

I plan on using this spinner and a trackball in the same panel...

The optic sensors are hard wired (soldered) to one axis.  There is a pin header to connect your trackball to the other Axes. 

[Tiger-Heli]

How hard/expensive to switch that to a jumper so that people could easily switch around at will?

The problem is board space.  There are two 1/2" wide areas on the board where there can be no thru-components so only the top surface is available.  It is in one of these areas that the axis configuration pads are located.  So the answer is, "very."

However, if one were so inclined, they could attach wires to the board at the pads and hook in a switch.  But I would expect that re-configuration would be done seldom enough that a switch would be a bit of an overkill.

FWIW, I've changed the axis about 5 times on my test unit during development and it took less than 30 seconds each time.

For those who find this type of solder-less configuration desireable for experimentation, or whathaveyou, you may wish to wait until I get the "slave" spinner option up at the store.  It will basically be a brain-less version of the spinner intended for connection to another TurboTwist with a free axis or an Opti-Wiz.  You can try it with other optical interfaces as well, but there is so much data being pumped by the spinner, acceptable results won't be guaranteed on anything other than one of our interfaces.

In any event, you could then connect the "brain-less" spinner to an Opti-Wiz and have it use any axis you want based on the pins you attach it to. This, of course, would be a more expensive way to do this kind of thing, but it's an option.

RandyT

Mainly directed to RandyT:

Just to throw out some ideas here -
I ASSuME the slave version of the board will not include a microprocessor, correct?

It seems hard for me to tell without owning an actual board, but I did review this thread and the Opti-Wiz thread before posting.

I think I see how it is being configured, but maybe not exactly WHY?

From what I can tell, there are six pairs of bridges on the rear (USB connector side) of the board with each group of pairs labelled X, Y, and Z.  On the Turbo-Twist picture at GGG, it appears that two solder drops are connecting the bridges corresponding to X and to change the axis, one would remove these drops and close the bridges corresponding to Y or Z.

Comment 1 - It would seem that you could make the board with a two-pin header in place of the solder "bridge" pads.  The you could just connect a pair of jumpers to the corresponding pins and accomplish the same thing without needing to solder/desolder.  (I realize this might add more to the cost and labor required to produce the board than it was worth for the benefit received).  I also realize that perhaps this is what Randy meant about the 1/2 inch area that you can't have thru components, so these might need to be surface mount headers (if there is such a thing), or they might need to go through the board, be soldered from the back, and then be insulated to prevent them shorting out against the TurboTwist frame.

Comment 2 - I am not exactly sure how these pads work with the rest of the board - but it would seem like you might be able to bypass the solder pads altogether.  From the Opti-Wiz thread, I ASSuME you are adding some opto-switches and a resistor to the Opti-Wiz to make the PCB for the Turbo-Twist, and I ASSuME the added components are similar to a Happ optic board.   And I think when it comes down to it, there are only two wires from the Happ Optic board that connect to the lower header on the Opti-Wiz.  Would it be possible to run the added components to a two-pin header possibly located somewhere other than the solder bridges, leave the bridges open, and then use a jumper wire to connect the new header to the desired existing two-pin header at the bottom of the TurboTwist PCB?

I'm not saying any of these changes are required, and if RandyT wants to ignore them b/c the product works fine for the majority of users as-is, I agree with that.  Also, all of this was basically stated in other threads, but if it or explaining it steps on proprietary information issues, I understand that as well. . .

[RandyT]

I ASSuME the slave version of the board will not include a microprocessor, correct?

That is correct.  The slave board will basically be a bare board with opto-switches, a resistor and a 4 pin header.  Ground, +5v, XA and XB.

From what I can tell, there are six pairs of bridges on the rear (USB connector side) of the board with each group of pairs labelled X, Y, and Z.  On the Turbo-Twist picture at GGG, it appears that two solder drops are connecting the bridges corresponding to X and to change the axis, one would remove these drops and close the bridges corresponding to Y or Z.

That is also correct.

Comment 1 - It would seem that you could make the board with a two-pin header in place of the solder "bridge" pads.  The you could just connect a pair of jumpers to the corresponding pins and accomplish the same thing without needing to solder/desolder.  (I realize this might add more to the cost and labor required to produce the board than it was worth for the benefit received).  I also realize that perhaps this is what Randy meant about the 1/2 inch area that you can't have thru components, so these might need to be surface mount headers (if there is such a thing), or they might need to go through the board, be soldered from the back, and then be insulated to prevent them shorting out against the TurboTwist frame.

These units are already very labor intensive.  Every part has a cost associated with it, and it only begins with the purchase price.  If I calculated the time it takes to do these from start to finish, I would probably kick myself for offering them at the current price. 

But cost isn't the only reason.  There can be absolutely nothing between the boards and the frame.  An optical arrangement with this kind of resolution allows for very little error in positioning.  The variable distance created by residual solder would be a nightmare to account for.

Comment 2 - I am not exactly sure how these pads work with the rest of the board - but it would seem like you might be able to bypass the solder pads altogether.  From the Opti-Wiz thread, I ASSuME you are adding some opto-switches and a resistor to the Opti-Wiz to make the PCB for the Turbo-Twist, and I ASSuME the added components are similar to a Happ optic board.   And I think when it comes down to it, there are only two wires from the Happ Optic board that connect to the lower header on the Opti-Wiz.  Would it be possible to run the added components to a two-pin header possibly located somewhere other than the solder bridges, leave the bridges open, and then use a jumper wire to connect the new header to the desired existing two-pin header at the bottom of the TurboTwist PCB?

I can talk any user through getting the results they want from the device if they have "special needs." 

There are many ways to skin the same proverbial cat, but none of them are free.  They all have costs associated with them in board space, parts cost and labor.  I already came in $10 higher than I projected because I chose to bump up the quality on a couple of the components.  These were functional improvements that actually added value to the product, not convenience frills. 

And as you stated, none of what is being discussed is required, nor does it's absence make the product any less functional.   Honestly,. these types of discussions are akin to suggesting to IL that their "Competition" joysticks should have had a switch on them to make them 4/8 way switchable.  Anyone done that lately?

There's something that just goes against my grain when it comes to adding a feature that very few people will consider important, yet everyone pays more for.  I'd rather use that capital to improve the core functionality of the device and keep the cost low, something that everyone who uses it will benefit from.

But that's just me

RandyT

[19rjs99]

Only 1 left on the web site right now... I already ordered mine 

Can wait for some knob options Randy.

Bob

[Tiger-Heli]

Honestly,. these types of discussions are akin to suggesting to IL that their "Competition" joysticks should have had a switch on them to make them 4/8 way switchable.  Anyone done that lately?

Seems like you did with the Prodigy (not based on the Comp's, though.)  And they listened to someone complaining about it when they came out with the stick that became the T-Stick.   

There's something that just goes against my grain when it comes to adding a feature that very few people will consider important, yet everyone pays more for.  I'd rather use that capital to improve the core functionality of the device and keep the cost low, something that everyone who uses it will benefit from.

Point taken - And much appreciated!!! 

[RandyT]

Ok, the first 9 I had available are gone!!  The last of them shipped yesterday.

I'll be working on the next batch over the weekend and hopefully have some more available by early next week.

Depending on the work load of my machinist, these are liable to be the last ones available for a week or two.  But who knows, he may surprise me.

I'll keep everyone updated.

RandyT

[farmecologist]

Randy, I understand that your spinner has many more expansion capabilities than the tornado spinner.  It looks really nice!

However, if I ONLY consider the spinner functionality, what are the differences?  In my experience, for many games such as Arkanoid, *any* non-geared spinner, regardless of the sensitivity, will not give you the correct 'feel' while playing the game.  I take it this is also true with your spinner? 

Thanks Randy!

[97thruhiker]

Considering you shipped mine out yesterday I guess I one of the original nine to purchase a TurboTwist  !

[RandyT]

Randy, I understand that your spinner has many more expansion capabilities than the tornado spinner.  It looks really nice!

However, if I ONLY consider the spinner functionality, what are the differences?  In my experience, for many games such as Arkanoid, *any* non-geared spinner, regardless of the sensitivity, will not give you the correct 'feel' while playing the game.  I take it this is also true with your spinner? 

The major stumbling block for spinners with Arkanoid has been the lack of resolution.  I did a fairly complete analysis of the control situation with that title in another thread found here.  I had to operate from a few assumptions, but it seems to add up.  The only thing I am not sure about is whether the game actually uses all of the resolution the control provided.  It's possible that it was averaged somehow.

While the resolution of the TurboTwist isn't at the same level as an Arkanoid spinner, it's still much higher than any other conventional spinner.  This makes a game like Arkanoid very playable.  I certainly do not consider the TurboTwist to "suck" for this game .  The feel and performance are different from other spinners.

There are other things to be concerned about with a a title like this and those are inertia and momentum.  If a spinner has a heavy flywheel and spins too freely, it will be difficult to prevent overshoot.  The spinner will want to continue spinning past the point where you attempt to stop it.  Somewhere along the line the community has been fed the incorrect notion that a desirable trait is one where the spinner will spin "forever" with one spin of the control, when in fact, all that does is make them more difficult to control.  More than 8 or 9 revolutions are unnecessary as no game requires this type of motion for effective control.  If you find that the spinners you have tried have too much resistance when beginning a move, or are difficult to stop precisely where you want them to, they suffer from the aforementioned problems.

As for the physical "dead stop" and "specific resistance" properties of the Arkanoid control itself, no spinner is going to be able to do that while being a good spinner for any number of other titles where those properties would make the games unplayable.  Well, unless you wanted to pay $200 or more for the contraption and have it take up much more space on your panel .  The TurboTwist has been balanced to provide playability in all genres of games.  I can pretty much guarantee that no spinner or paddle game will be unplayable with this control.

So, at the "end of the day" this is going to be the answer:  If you are a dyed-in-the-wool Arkanoid fan, there is only going to be one control that will ever be satisfactory to you, and that is the original control.  It won't do you any good for the majority of other titles, so you'll need to plan on having a two spinners on the panel.   Everyone else, will most likely be happy with the compromise the TurboTwist can provide.

RandyT

[shmokes]

RandyT,

Been ages since I visited your site.  I don't know when it happened, but nice site redesign.  It's MUCH MUCH better.

[RandyT]

RandyT,

Been ages since I visited your site.  I don't know when it happened, but nice site redesign.  It's MUCH MUCH better.

Thanks Shmokes.  That was a lot nicer than the usual kick in the teeth

(just kidding!!!!)

I'm still working on it when I can.  If you or anyone have any suggestions (other than "more info"..that's a given ) please feel free to send them to me.

Thanks,

RandyT

[mahuti]

Hah... open critique request with a designer present. Prepare for the bloodbath.

Just kiddin.


How bout a picture of the control panel clamp set?

[Havok]

Hey Randy, what kind of timeframe do you think you are looking at before getting these in stock again?

[97thruhiker]

Installed my Groovy Game Gear Spinner spinner on my control panel today.  So far I am very happy with my purchase.  Build quality seems very high and the few games I've played have been wonderful (first time I've played Tempest with a spinner in over twenty years!).  Also Outrun and Super Sprint played great right out of the box. 

[Kremmit]

Pictures, please.  Encoder wheel.

[RandyT]

Pictures, please.  Encoder wheel.

Here, let me get that for you.....

RandyT