Author Topic: my asteroids (Read 33075 times)

SirPoonga · « **Reply #40 on:** June 21, 2005, 09:11:26 am »

The only thing you'd have to tilt your head for is score, I know. I though about that too.

cw · « **Reply #41 on:** June 21, 2005, 04:14:32 pm »

What about making a new mounting board for the monitor.... and turning it ... wonder if that would fit....

SirPoonga · « **Reply #42 on:** June 21, 2005, 04:30:40 pm »

Found the cabinet I will need. A Dender/Robotron type cabinet.
http://www.robotron-2084.co.uk/robotroncocktailownerslist.html

I wonder if someone put accurate measurements in for that one thread that was keeping track of measurements....

spriggy · « **Reply #43 on:** June 22, 2005, 06:46:26 pm »

Quote from: SirPoonga on June 21, 2005, 04:30:40 pm

Found the cabinet I will need.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #44 on:** June 23, 2005, 03:25:30 pm »

Does someone have a pic of how an arcade monitor is mounted in a cocktail? If so then I will probably just make my own. I have a full sheet of mdf at my parents...

cw · « **Reply #45 on:** June 23, 2005, 06:43:13 pm »

We have a Defender cocktail at the shop....Ill get you a pic in the next day or two of the monitor mount..

SirPoonga · « **Reply #46 on:** June 26, 2005, 10:56:48 am »

It's coming.....

Just got the call form my parents. They decided to bring my asteroids from their house to my apartment today. In about 3 hours I will have it here

ChadTower · « **Reply #47 on:** June 26, 2005, 11:51:39 am »

Awesome. I'll be very happy to see this back up and running. My AD has been sitting here for months untouched while I work on other stuff.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #48 on:** June 26, 2005, 07:28:36 pm »

The cool thing is my dad took the monitor out so it was lighter for transport.
So that will make it easier to work on

ChadTower · « **Reply #49 on:** June 26, 2005, 08:18:02 pm »

You hope... God forbid he damage the monitor any more than it may already be damaged.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #50 on:** June 27, 2005, 12:12:11 am »

I don't think you can really hurt this thing. It's made like a brick. Lots of reinforcement. From what I gather what's wrong with it is normal wear and tear for this monitor.

ChadTower · « **Reply #51 on:** June 27, 2005, 08:45:06 am »

There are some extremely fragile points in any monitor.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #52 on:** June 27, 2005, 09:57:01 am »

I was going to take the monitor out anyway, it's a very tight space to work in. I don't think my dad would be rough with it. He even wrapped it in a couple of army blankets during transport.

RayB · « **Reply #53 on:** June 27, 2005, 11:10:17 am »

The neck...

ChadTower · « **Reply #54 on:** June 27, 2005, 11:22:40 am »

As well as a couple hundred 20+ year old solder joints. Don't be surprised if some of them have gone cold after being moved.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #55 on:** June 27, 2005, 03:57:21 pm »

Well, it had to be moved, it's not like it was unavoidable. You guys make it sound like I am being careless with it. It was easier and safer to take it out. Actually, why it is out I might keep it out and just try and find a cocktail cabinet right away.

I probably would have taken the monitor out to work on it anyway. That is a small cabinet. My emulation cabinet is roughly based on my dynamo dimensions. This cabinet is dwarfed by that one. Width and height. I could barely get my hands in the side if I needed to get at the transistors that need replacing.

It's much easier to shock proof the monitor for transportation than the entire cabinet with monitor in it. The monitor sat in the van on several layers of blankets and wrapped in blankets. The cabient had to go on a trailer as it didn't fit in the van. I told dad nothing could happen to the monitor since those were hard to find, so he took it out and wrapped it up well. It was in the van which has a much smoother ride than the trailer. Oh yeah, mainboard was taken out too as that's just in a simple plastic holder.

Here's a pic of it in my second bedroom, which is the computer room for my apartment.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v472/SirPoonga/asteroids/?action=view&current=room1.jpg

I'm not going to be suprised with anything that is wrong with this, but it's not going to be because of what I did...unless I solder something wrong.

I've been getting price quotes from bob, will probably make an order after my next paycheck.

BTW, now that I have the monitor here I answered one of my previous questions.
'BTW, how do these "tin can" transistors work? There's only two pin on them.'. I see how it works now, the case is one of the "pins" after it is put in the socket. I'm sure the rebuild kit will say but since it is socketed do they just pull out?

ChadTower · « **Reply #56 on:** June 27, 2005, 04:15:34 pm »

We didn't say you were going to cause it intentionally... slow down a bit. These are issues whenever anyone moves any cab anywhere. We're trying to warn you about things that can happen. Having to reflow the solder on a monitor after you've moved it is not an unusual thing for anyone. We're not taking shots at you or your father.

You would not want to bother trying to solder anything while it's still in the cabinet. You'd take the chassis out and work on it someplace else. Only an op with a vested interest in speed would work on a chassis in place.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #57 on:** June 27, 2005, 06:28:30 pm »

That's cool. I guess I read too much into it

Anyway. I will prder next week maybe.
I wish bob took paypal, I got a whole bunch of rebate back... BTW, I love tigerdirect's online rebate through onrebate.com. Having them come to paypal is nice.

ChadTower · « **Reply #58 on:** June 28, 2005, 09:02:18 am »

I've seen probably a hundred, and there are many more, who say that Tiger Rebate is a scam that hardly ever sends out the rebates...

...anyway, after your first paid order, Bob will cross ship and expect you to send payment the same way. Speed is no longer an issue at that point.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #59 on:** June 28, 2005, 09:37:36 am »

Quote from: ChadTower on June 28, 2005, 09:02:18 am

I've seen probably a hundred, and there are many more, who say that Tiger Rebate is a scam that hardly ever sends out the rebates...

Heh. And I have received all my tigerdirect rebates. You just need to follow them exactly.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #60 on:** July 01, 2005, 12:43:08 pm »

Quote from: cw on June 23, 2005, 06:43:13 pm

We have a Defender cocktail at the shop....Ill get you a pic in the next day or two of the monitor mount..

Got that pic?

SirPoonga · « **Reply #61 on:** July 13, 2005, 11:03:54 am »

Bob said I should probably get my parts thursday. So you know what my weekend project will be

I was talking to a local tech, he use to work for the local vending company many years ago. He hasn't worked on one of these in many many years. I told him that fuse is blowing and he came up with a bunch of reasons why it might. I told him I got the rebuild kit. He said that might fix it, especially since those parts have been replaced before. But there are other things that could be wrong to make the fuse blow.

I guess we will see.

ChadTower · « **Reply #62 on:** July 13, 2005, 11:10:47 am »

I still suspect the problem could be bad molex pins.

Havok · « **Reply #63 on:** July 13, 2005, 02:16:09 pm »

I would check all that electrical tape and get rid of it. Pull them out one at a time and make sure there aren't any crossed wires, then use a butt connector, crimp it and use shrink tubing to repair. Even if that doesn't fix the problem, you really should do it anyways for future reliability.

Also, look for broken or shorted solder joints on the PCB...

SirPoonga · « **Reply #64 on:** July 13, 2005, 04:31:31 pm »

Actually yeah. Now that I have it at my apartment I should pull out my multimeter and test if the right power is going to the monitor.

I will rewire the whole thing. Like I said, I might put it in a cocktail cabinet. I'm going to wait until I decide on that. If I do put it in a cocktail cabinet it will require rewiring

SirPoonga · « **Reply #65 on:** July 14, 2005, 10:02:28 am »

Just reminding myself of a link, been using this thread as a bookmark of asteroids links.
http://www.arcadedocs.com/vidmanuals/A/asteroids_2b.pdf

SirPoonga · « **Reply #66 on:** July 15, 2005, 08:17:54 pm »

Got my rebuild kit.

Big blue is now going to become big black!

ChadTower · « **Reply #67 on:** July 15, 2005, 09:29:28 pm »

Awesome. Swap out that old filter cap, don't even test it. Just take the old one and chuck it in the trash. Once that is in place, test the power supply outputs under load. It shouldn't be hard to find on the net what the proper values should be. The testing will probably be best done on the AR board, not necessarily the power supply itself, though test the inputs to the AR board as well. If you get acceptable voltages out of the AR under load, you're good to look at the PCB and test from the test points there (+5v, +12v, X, Y, and Z outputs I think). If the AR doesn't check out, order an AR rebuild kit and do that. An AR rebuild kit literally is a 15 minute job.

I'm half in the bag, honestly, but IIRC X and Y should fluctuate between +12v to -12v and Z has a smaller range of like 0v to +5v. I'm pretty sure on the X and Y but not as certain on the upper limit of the Z... I need another beer.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #68 on:** July 15, 2005, 09:40:44 pm »

yeah, I will deal with that in abit.

I looked at the case transistors on the v2000. It appears they have that heat transfer stuff on them that you use for PC CPUs??? If so I gotta get some of that

ChadTower · « **Reply #69 on:** July 15, 2005, 10:08:25 pm »

What do you mean by v2000?

SirPoonga · « **Reply #70 on:** July 15, 2005, 10:30:44 pm »

ok people, riddle me this.
First grab the v2000 manual
http://www.ionpool.net/arcade/asteroidtech/asteroidsrepair.html or
These two pages:
http://westnet.com/~chris/arcade/19V2000/page19.html
http://westnet.com/~chris/arcade/19V2000/page21.html

The fuse that is blowing is F100. You see that is between pin 7 of the connector and the diode rectifier. Page 21 tells me that needs to be AC 30V RMS (along with pin 10 of course).

So I look at the atari wiring specs which you can see here
http://photobucket.com/albums/v472/SirPoonga/asteroids/?action=view&current=harnesswiring.jpg

Look at P22 Pins 7 and 10 goto 11 and 13 from the video power supply. That says 65V!!

Huh?
Page 1 of the v2000 manual does say "I/P POWER @60V AC"
I haven't measured AC in awhile. Do I put my multimeter to pin 7 and 10 or 7 and ground (pin 11)?

v2000 = Wells Gardner 19v2000. Every doc I find seems to refer to it like that.

Edit, my bad
INPUT VOLTAGE ........ 30-0-30 VAC RMS center

It's been awhile since I worked with AC. Still need to know which pins to test and what value to expect.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #71 on:** July 15, 2005, 11:13:32 pm »

So, figured out how to test with help form chat people

So, the 5amp fuse blows, which means it is drawing too much current. But the right voltage is going to that. Does this mean the parts are failing? Hence the rebuild kit?

I have to go through and test all of the pins on the connector. I tested continuity on of of them and that passed.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #72 on:** July 15, 2005, 11:35:09 pm »

Have you guys ever seen a blown slo-blo? I looked at it compared to a good one. The wire coil looks like it boils, it's bubbled up in a couple of spots. It's kinda cool

SirPoonga · « **Reply #73 on:** July 16, 2005, 02:36:09 pm »

Do I need to discharge anything? (Including Big Blue?)
Yep, I need to discharge the monitor, what about big blue, I want to make sure on that. It's a 28,000uf 25V capacitor. That's not going to feal good. And how if I need to?

Ok, I saw this:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,14906.0.html
Read this:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,38152.0.html

Do I need the have the all the chassis wires plugged in to where ever they go (tansistors, yoke, etc) or can I take that out and still be able to disharge the HV circuit?

I might just call a local TV repair company and have them dicharge and deal with the 4 capacitors that go on the HV circuit. The rest I should be able to deal with.

RayB · « **Reply #74 on:** July 16, 2005, 02:56:12 pm »

You're talking to yourself again Poonga

SirPoonga · « **Reply #75 on:** July 16, 2005, 03:28:45 pm »

For your enjoyment
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/SirPoonga/asteroids/parts.jpg

SirPoonga · « **Reply #76 on:** July 17, 2005, 01:47:33 pm »

Emailed Bob Roberts. Don't need to dicharge big blue. The circuit does that one minute after you turn it off according too Bob.

So, come monday I will call a local TV repair place and see if they will discharge the monitor. (And maybe put hte 4 caps on the HV circuit for me too)

SirPeale · « **Reply #77 on:** July 17, 2005, 02:11:25 pm »

Now that I've been working with these things for a while, I can say with some confidence now: don't bother with the repair shop! You can do the job yourself.

I know discharging an XY is different from a raster, but the details are posted on the 'net.

Then just replace your caps. You *do* have a soldering iron, yes?

SuperGunGuru · « **Reply #78 on:** July 17, 2005, 06:53:41 pm »

Quote from: SirPoonga on July 16, 2005, 03:28:45 pm

For your enjoyment
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/SirPoonga/asteroids/parts.jpg

Heh I see you got a pen from Bob Roberts also. He sent one with my last order. I think of it as my official pen for any tech work I do. It's like a lucky pen

RayB · « **Reply #79 on:** July 17, 2005, 08:54:26 pm »

Lagniappe!


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