Author Topic: SPACE INVADERS DELUXE: To restore or MAME? (Read 9645 times)

HoopstarsGarage · « **Reply #40 on:** May 12, 2005, 10:04:47 pm »

Don't suppose you want to take some meaurements of the cabinet for me? ..and maybe Jakobud might like them too

rohan · « **Reply #41 on:** May 12, 2005, 10:29:29 pm »

IMO, MAME it the right way. None of the art should be touched, that includes the backdrop. Don't do anything you can't undo. That still leaves several games that could be played properly, though. That's quite a classic, even if it was pretty common.

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #42 on:** May 12, 2005, 11:46:30 pm »

that thing's AWESOME Alan!!!
just hold out for a good monitor at a decent price
one will come along eventually

Apollo · « **Reply #43 on:** May 13, 2005, 01:16:26 am »

Awesomely cool cab, mame it. Keep everything intact, leave the PCB inside unconnected even, put a T-stick plus red ball top and 2 buttons on the CP with a colour monitor and set it up for classic verticals, Galaxian, Scramble, Phoenix, 1942 etc.
That thing is the coolest but who the hell plays Space Invaders these days?
Everything you do will be totally reversible very easily and you'll have a rockin cab until you sell it ( personally I would never sell it ).

Stingray · « **Reply #44 on:** May 13, 2005, 09:37:55 am »

Quote from: Apollo on May 13, 2005, 01:16:26 am

That thing is the coolest but who the hell plays Space Invaders these days?

I do.

-S

AlanS17 · « **Reply #45 on:** May 13, 2005, 10:09:56 am »

Quote from: HoopstarsGarage on May 12, 2005, 10:04:47 pm

Don't suppose you want to take some meaurements of the cabinet for me?

AlanS17 · « **Reply #46 on:** May 13, 2005, 10:16:51 am »

Well I'm STILL waiting on that replacement monitor. That dude finally sent it out just yesterday...

We'll see what happens.

ChadTower · « **Reply #47 on:** May 13, 2005, 10:33:06 am »

I don't get the difficulty here. The only difference between a 21" and 23" monitors is the mount. Just alter the mount enough to put in a 21", if that's all you can find. I don't think anyone would fault you for changing the mounting hardware a little bit if it means the difference between MAME and restoration.

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #48 on:** May 13, 2005, 10:37:14 am »

Quote from: AlanS17 on May 13, 2005, 10:09:56 am

You couldn't mount a mirror in the cabinet without a mirror, though. The dimensions of the cabinet prevent it.

AlanS17 · « **Reply #49 on:** May 13, 2005, 10:41:06 am »

LOL my bad. I fixed the above post. My brain was going faster than my fingers.

AlanS17 · « **Reply #50 on:** May 13, 2005, 10:42:40 am »

Quote from: ChadTower on May 13, 2005, 10:33:06 am

I don't get the difficulty here.

ChadTower · « **Reply #51 on:** May 13, 2005, 10:53:19 am »

Ah, rereading, Drew said he had sold 23" monitors, you mistakenly said 21", apparently.

So, you've been talking all this time about the inability to find a 19" b/w monitor? Damn, man, those are easy to get. Hell, just take a 19" b/w tv and put it in there, that's all those really old monitors are...

AlanS17 · « **Reply #52 on:** May 18, 2005, 12:03:56 am »

Bad news on the restoration front, people. I got that new monitor and hooked it up. Still nothing. I'm beginning to think the problem isn't even the monitor. When I plug it in, the lights come on inside, but I'm not getting sound or picture. However, I have the feeling the speaker is getting power cuz it makes a popping sound when I unplug it. So I'm starting wonder if the problem isn't the game board.

Everything in there is cosmetically intact and nice and clean, but that doesn't mean it's working. The "genius" that owned this thing before me cleaned it regularly on the inside. Lord only knows what he might have done to it...

This thing might begetting MAMEd after all...

HoopstarsGarage · « **Reply #53 on:** May 18, 2005, 12:11:16 am »

..and when you are MAMEing it.. you could take some mearuements too

But seriously, if you MAME it, atleast do it in such a way that it can be reversed should you ever get a working game board and/or monitor..

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #54 on:** May 18, 2005, 12:18:32 am »

I read somewhere that you should check the 10 UF electrolytic capacitors on the main
board, right beside where the daughter board plugs in

There's like 4 of them or something

If that's all it is it'll be a cheap fix

AlanS17 · « **Reply #55 on:** May 18, 2005, 10:20:10 am »

Quote from: IntruderAlert on May 18, 2005, 12:18:32 am

I read somewhere that you should check the 10 UF electrolytic capacitors on the main
board, right beside where the daughter board plugs in

There's like 4 of them or something

If that's all it is it'll be a cheap fix

Really! Hmmm... and what would be the symptoms of bad caps? Would it be total system shutdown? I might just have to look into that...

How do I test a capacitor, though?

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #56 on:** May 18, 2005, 10:32:30 am »

I'm no expert but here's a helpful page:
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/captest.htm

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #57 on:** May 18, 2005, 10:37:51 am »

It was on one of the newsgroups

Quote

Rick Adair wrote in message <3859d...@news.desupernet.net>...
>Need some info on vid problem with SID. The video started getting garbled as
>if it was losing sync. Then all of a sudden the vid just stop. I cleaned all
>connectors and replaced all the fuses. No Luck. It almost seems like the
>video isn't getting power. the game works other wise. I can coin up and get
>sound and control just no video. Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Sounds like you've lost the 10uF cap near the edge connector
on the motherboard.

Alex
http://home.neo.lrun.com/ayeckle/
ayeck...@neo.lrun.com (Play)
yeck...@diebold.com (Work)

The guy replaced the caps but it didn't fix his problem.

Worth a try though I guess.
Just be careful and don't shock yourself

AlanS17 · « **Reply #58 on:** May 18, 2005, 11:04:11 am »

Well it looks like that guy still had sound. I don't think I'm getting sound.

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #59 on:** May 18, 2005, 11:39:21 am »

You don't suppose it could simply be that someone flipped the dipswitches when "cleaning" do ya'?

AlanS17 · « **Reply #60 on:** May 18, 2005, 11:43:29 am »

There's a set of dipswitches, but none of their settings should affect whether the game actually works or not. They affect aspects of the game (like upright vs cocktail), but nothing like whether it works or not.

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #61 on:** May 18, 2005, 11:54:50 am »

I'm still looking around
I found this if you need it:
http://pdf.textfiles.com/arcade/manuals/sideluxe.pdf

AlanS17 · « **Reply #62 on:** May 18, 2005, 11:55:56 am »

Thank you very much. I'm about out of ideas on this thing. It makes me want to rip my hair out.

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #63 on:** May 18, 2005, 11:57:00 am »

The manual mentions a safety switch you have to pull out to restore power to the monitor
there's also some fuses on the transformer board

AlanS17 · « **Reply #64 on:** May 18, 2005, 12:16:42 pm »

Well I checked the fuses on the transformer board. They look brand new. So do the fuses in the monitor chassis.

I'll have to have a look into that safety switch, though...

I'm expecting to be upset either way, though. If it's something simple like that then maybe I just wasted $110 on a new monitor. And if the monitor isn't the problem at all then I still wasted $110 on a new monitor.

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #65 on:** May 18, 2005, 12:23:38 pm »

well you can always re-ebay the monitor
and if it raises your spirits any check this out:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13716&item=6180350878

Stingray · « **Reply #66 on:** May 18, 2005, 12:26:51 pm »

Snipped this from a disscussion on another board. Not sure if this applies to you or not, but thought I'd pass it along:

Quote

I had a Midway one a few years back. Elektronforge.com rebuilt the boards and PS for me. It worked for 20 minutes and burned out the board. If you guys have a Midway version.........get your voltmeter and test of -5 Volts on the pcb!!! It needs it or it takes out board parts in a VERY short time. My wiring was dirty, and it took its toll that quicky. I am guessing thats what cooked it the first time, too.

-S

AlanS17 · « **Reply #67 on:** May 18, 2005, 12:33:41 pm »

Quote from: Stingray on May 18, 2005, 12:26:51 pm

Snipped this from a disscussion on another board. Not sure if this applies to you or not, but thought I'd pass it along:

Quote
I had a Midway one a few years back. Elektronforge.com rebuilt the boards and PS for me. It worked for 20 minutes and burned out the board. If you guys have a Midway version.........get your voltmeter and test of -5 Volts on the pcb!!! It needs it or it takes out board parts in a VERY short time. My wiring was dirty, and it took its toll that quicky. I am guessing thats what cooked it the first time, too.

-S

I can certainly check it out. I need a voltmeter, anyways. I need to see what parts of that machine are even getting power. I'm working blind.

ChadTower · « **Reply #68 on:** May 18, 2005, 01:03:46 pm »

Uh, did you look at the fuses or did you actually test them for continuity? You can't test a fuse by looking at it. Ever.

Have you done the basic things yet, like tested the outputs on each of the power supply tabs? Are you even sure you're getting proper power to the PCB and monitor?

SirPeale · « **Reply #69 on:** May 18, 2005, 01:31:55 pm »

Quote from: AlanS17 on May 18, 2005, 12:33:41 pm

I can certainly check it out. I need a voltmeter, anyways. I need to see what parts of that machine are even getting power. I'm working blind.

I'm going to do some yelling now.

WHAT ARE YOU EVEN DOING POSTING, WITHOUT HAVING PROPER TESTING EQUIPMENT?!?

I don't want another post from you in this thread until you have - AT MINIMUM - a multimeter. They're dead cheap. Get a digital one. There's one @ Radio Shack that folds up very small, it has a continuity checker, it's like $20 I think. Chad and I have the same one.

ChadTower · « **Reply #70 on:** May 18, 2005, 01:50:41 pm »

This is the one Peale is talking about.

It's $30, I did get it for $20 when it was on sale, though.

You could definitely get a better one, cheaper, from MCM or some other place if you were patient enough to order rather than buy at a store.

You can go no further with your testing without a multimeter.

AlanS17 · « **Reply #71 on:** May 18, 2005, 01:57:55 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on May 18, 2005, 01:03:46 pm

Uh, did you look at the fuses or did you actually test them for continuity?

AlanS17 · « **Reply #72 on:** May 18, 2005, 01:58:55 pm »

Then it's decided. I'm stopping at Radio Shack on the way home today. I've got one right by the house.

ChadTower · « **Reply #73 on:** May 18, 2005, 02:00:29 pm »

Good. Do you know how to use it? Do you know how to test a power supply? You really want to do some reading before you just start poking at electrical contacts.

What is your current skill level?

AlanS17 · « **Reply #74 on:** May 18, 2005, 02:08:31 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on May 18, 2005, 02:00:29 pm

Good.

ChadTower · « **Reply #75 on:** May 18, 2005, 02:13:25 pm »

Read this. All of it.

AlanS17 · « **Reply #76 on:** May 18, 2005, 02:37:41 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on May 18, 2005, 02:13:25 pm

Read this.

ChadTower · « **Reply #77 on:** May 18, 2005, 02:40:17 pm »

Yeah, it will take a while. Some you can skim, others you should read 4-5 times. I can't tell you how many hours I've spent reading Randy Fromm's stuff. It's awesome.

AlanS17 · « **Reply #78 on:** May 18, 2005, 10:28:51 pm »

Well I bought a multimeter on the way home, opened it up, and...

NO BATTERIES!!!

I guess I can't really blame anyone but myself, but I need daylight to work, and I have no daylight left. Maybe tomorrow...

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #79 on:** May 18, 2005, 11:38:34 pm »

maybe you should buy a lamp on your next shopping trip


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Should I restore this SID at any cost, or MAME it to play classics?

Author Topic: SPACE INVADERS DELUXE: To restore or MAME? (Read 9645 times)