lubricating ball bearings

[rampy]

Before I type my query.... note I looked at this thread , here and and here  I also visited bobroberts Tball tips section

the above links were very helpful...

Anyways... I picked up a refurb betson/imperial3" trackball... it rolled great up and down but a little shakey left to right.... so I picked up some 3 in 1 oil and lubed a few of the bearings... only thing is the bearings I lubed, rolled worse.... well that's not entirely true...
They were quieter/smoother but didn't really roll very well.. no satisifying whiiizzzzzzzzz.

So yeah... it's like the lube is actually slowing it down... maybe it's breaking up the dried out lube and it's gumming up ?  maybe more treatments? maybe a better lube (xiao2's contact cleaner/lube or some liquid teflon like lube?)

The bearings look to be in good shape and spin smooth... but just don't whiiizzzz (does that make any sense?)

it  actually rolled better when re-assembled... but I want more wizzzzz.... maybe my expectations are too high?

Any thoughts appreciated....

rampy

[Xiaou2]

Hi Rampy : )


   The reason the bearings are worse... is most likely cause there is some dirt inside them.   The 3-in-1 just added to the problem... making the dirt more like mud.

  The component cleaner will eat away the 'mud' and dirt, add a bit of lube to it... and the thing will spin with a whirr like you wouldnt believe.

 However... if the bearings have rust in them... use wd40 first, then use the component cleaner afterwords - cause wd leaves junky residue behind.


 
 

[drabbit]

Here are a few thing I learned about bearings from one of my other hobbies, R/C Racing.

First of all to clean bearings, there are only a few ways of really doing it well. The hard way is to open the sides of it and clean it out with a good bearing cleaner (spray or liquid with a brush). The easy way is to get the Bearing Blaster from RPM Products www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/tools/fixtools.htm#top. This little beauty is well worth its price, you squeeze the bearing between the top and bottom part of the tool and spray some cleaner through the hole in the top part via the small straw that comes with the spray can. I usually use brake cleaner found in most automotive parts store. The cleaner is forced to go trough the bearing and bring with it all of the gritty stuff. Spin the bearing a bit and start over if there is still some grit in it, you might have to spray a few times to get all clean.

When the bearings are all clean and had time to dry, lube them up with some bearing oil. This is another product that you could find at your local hobby shop that sells R/C cars and parts.

After this, if the bearings still have a gritty fealing to them, they are really due to be replaced. Replacing small bearings like the ones in trackballs can be a pain. Check your local hobby shop, they can get most sizes easily.

Here is a great on-line R/C store, it's called Tower Hobbies and can be found here www.towerhobbies.com.

Hope all of this helps.

[OSCAR]

Nearly every petroleum-based lubricant, spray or otherwise, have a solid content.  The solid is what releases the oil when pressure is applied to the bearing or what-not.  If there was no solid content, the actual oil would quickly dissipate, and there would be no lubrication.  Oil will naturally "evaporate" (not really the correct term, I guess), and leave the solid content behind.  Frequent and liberal lubrication will flush out the solid, but that is difficult with sealed bearings such as used on trackballs.  It is most likely this left-behind solid content that is causing your problem.

The recommendations to use a cleaner are right on, however if you do not reapply a lubricant, then the balls are just running on really clean races, which makes them very fast as Xiaou2 mentioned.  Does this hurt anything?  Do you need to relubricate?  Probably not, especially since we are talking about realitively slow rpm & forces with trackball bearings which are rated somewhere around 500 lbs & 50,000 rpm.  Lubrication really only extends the life of the bearing by reducing the wear on the inner & outer race.

The reason 3-in-1 oil is recommended for trackball bearings is because it is very light in solid content.  You also read on Bob Roberts page that he recommends relubricating every 3 months or so.  This is frequent enough to help flush out old solids and keep the trackball running smoothly until rollers are shot and the ball is cracked.  

It is neglected trackballs, and refurbs, that can really see improvment by using the cleaning agents.  Well-maintained ones should never need it.

[rampy]

Thanks guys...

It just seemed weird that the 3 in 1 made it spin less freely (yet smoother)....

I picked up some "Tuner Control cleaner and lube" from radio shack... you can see it here  is that the stuff you used xiao2?

I'll try it on the roller bar bearings and contrast and compare ... maybe cleaning with this stuff and then lub with  3 in 1...  

rampy

[Xiaou2]

 Hi Rampy,


   I just found one of the used cans.   Mine is the same shape and design... yet it says electronic cleaner.  Its probably the exact same stuff... but labled differently.
 
 Hmmm... heres the contents:  Proprietary Hydrocarbon Solvent, Carbon Dioxide CAS 124-38-9


 Says on front:
--------------------
  contains no cfc's or hcfc's
  safe on most plastics
  leaves no residue
 
  cleans away dust, dirt, and oxides

 cat no. 64-4327
--------------------

  Rampy,  try without the 3 in 1.  I think you will find it much better that way.  As oscar stated... the 3 in 1 will slow them down.   Also, there really is no need for that oil, as the bearing carry almost no load, and are only spun at low speeds.

  Application:

  Hold bearing in fingers, and spray 'heavily' on one side.  Let solution soak into the bearing cover for about 30 seconds.  

2) Spin bearing with the solvent side still facing upwards.  Spin it rapidly for about 15 seconds.  (simular to a washing machine

3) Repeat the whole process for the SAME side.  This will completely flush any remaining gunk out. (rinse cycle

4) Turn bearing over, and do the other side the same way.

 Report progress on the board, so people will believe me
(with exception to Oscar    )

[Xiaou2]

hmm... maybe its not quite the same.  Mine says its flammable.   Maybe its the propellent thats flammable though?

 BTW - The ones I got were notorious to run out of propellent and still have a lot of liquid still left in the can.  If that is so... you can puncture (carefully!)  a small hole into the side of the can to get the rest out.   Make sure to cover the hole though,  otherwise, the stuff will just evaporate into thin air.

[rampy]

dammit... they had that stuff there too... but I grabbed this stuff because it had lube in the label .... plus I used to use this stuff on motor brushes....

If it's just the degreasing power that's important, I wonder I could just use brake cleaner... as that's stuff that evaporates fast and degreases....

bah... I wonder if should return the stuff I got or try it or ...  i'm sure whatever I do will work out fine...

I'll post my results when I get a chance to try a few things...

thanks again...
rampy

[OSCAR]

 Rampy,  try without the 3 in 1.  I think you will find it much better that way.  As oscar stated... the 3 in 1 will slow them down.   Also, there really is no need for that oil, as the bearing carry almost no load, and are only spun at low speeds.
<snip>
 Report progress on the board, so people will believe me
(with exception to Oscar    )

I don't think you read my post the way it was intended.  To paraphrase my previous statement...

... Do you need to relubricate?  Probably not, especially since we are talking about realitively slow rpm & forces with trackball bearings which are rated somewhere around 500 lbs & 50,000 rpm.  Lubrication really only extends the life of the bearing by reducing the wear on the inner & outer race.

I don't disagree that they should be cleaned, in fact I recommended it as well.  Although, I have never read anywhere, except on this board, that bearings should not be lubricated.  You will certainly never see a bearing manufacturer recommend it, either.