Is it possible to get some shots of the guts later?
I'm dying to see the wiring and how you routed them all out..... How you manage the slack to allow for rotation...... Where you placed the I-PAC..... You know, all the manly gory shots!!!!! 
Btw, I bought the first components today for my own rotating control panel. I've modified your idea already though! heh. Instead of PVC pipe to allow for rotation I'm going to use two 3" lazy susan bearings. Did you see any limitation in these that I don't? I think I have all the mounting and wire routing problems licked. I'm just wondering what your thinking was for avoiding them.
All will be revealed! When I get the time... I'm sick now, and my involuntary 5-week vacation is coming to an end (meaning, I'm running out of money...) so I'll just be doing stuff in the evenings. You won't see anywhere near the progress I've been making in the last month.

Right now, everything is just duct-taped in place until I get all the space constraints worked out and everything's wired up and working. I still need to do my modular Star Wars / Terminator 2 panel, but that's pushed to weekends now...
I fully intended to use 5" lazy suzan bearings, until I tried to put them into my model and discovered a few problems. For one, the 5" ones were too big, and would end up going past the edges of the CPs, so they'd be visible. Also, lazy susans are made to receive weight from above, not from the side, so the bearings really wouldn't do anything. Lastly, I couldn't figure out any way to mount two of them with the CPs in the way. Somehow, you've got to get some screws behind the cp ends to connect them to the bearings that would have to be already bolted into the cab. Also, I wouldn't have been able to build my roller-latch locking system with even 3" bearings. The PVC is working fine, and would be cheap and easy to replace! (BTW, it wast a BEEYOTCH to get the CP turnstyle mounted, even with just the frame, no panels. Once you get a couple of the roller latches into the holes, though, it pretty much holds everything in place, so I can remove and replace the PVC tubes without any trouble.)
Superb, as always, 1UP!
I can't wait to see your write-up on converting the Pro to a DOT spinner. Did you use the same dual m/switch method like you did on your Model 1?
I haven't done anything to the Pro yet... It seems like you could do a much better hack with it though, since it has that whole frame now. I was thinking of putting machine screws in thru the 4 mounting holes, placing a small spring on each screw above and below the plate, and then the whole thing would be on kind of a suspension, with the optics locked to the wheel. But the thing is so nice as is, I don't really want to mess with it! (Plus, I spent a bit more to get the Pro and the Optipac then I did on the Model 1...) Anyway, I put the player start buttons close to the knob, so I might be able to use those as up/down buttons. Might not work, but I couldn't get that high in DOT lately anyway. But when I was 12, I whooped its ass!
