Twisty-Grip mod help needed (TheMan, SirPoonga, OSCAR, LilWolf, 1Up please read)

[Tiger-Heli]

Ah good, I'm on the right track, a few additional questions below:

Is it necessary for the X-axis (Up-down) dowel to extend almost to the right grip, and what purpose does that serve?
Yes, because unlike the Y-axis dowel the dowel is stationary.  You connect the POT to the right grip (I used double sided sticky tape.  Works great) and when the grip is rotated the bottom of the POT rotates but the shaft is stationary.

Double-sided tape was one of my suggestions (not shown in the Twisty Plans).  And I was right that the dowel is stationary.

Let me rephrase the question above:  The POT mounts to the left edge of the dowel.  The dowel has a hole 1.32 inches from the left edge.  Nails go through this and through the slot in the X-axis shaft and the holes in the left spacer.  This holds the dowel stationary as the shaft rotates, since the spacer is glued into the large T.  However, the dowel length is shown as 6.3 inches meaning the right end of the dowel sticks out 1-inch beyond the right end of the X-axis shaft.  What purpose does this serve?  Couldn't I make the dowel length 2.0 inches and it would still be held in place by the left spacer and I would have more access for my centering spring and for running wires down the middle of the yoke?

What prevents the pot shaft from sliding all the way into the dowel and slipping?
If I understand this question, you use a setscrew to secure the POT to the shaft and the nail prevents it from moving in and out.

This wasn't mentioned by them either, although I do remember seeing a set screw to hold the pot in in the later pictures at http://www.twistygrip.com/figures.htm.  I am planning to use jamnuts to keep the pot out of the dowel, (and I could always add a setscrew later, if required).

Do my changes to the design seem logical to you?
I haven't had time to read all of the replies.  If I have sometime on Friday, I'll look over the entire thread.
Sorry, still workin on the basement.  I have cabinets coming and I'm not ready for them
TM

Fair enough, thanks!!!

P.S.  I now agree with the TwistyGrip people and do NOT use the centering feature.  I've found I don't need it and other games that I use the Yoke with didn't have this feature.  I could be wrong.

I think I will want auto-centering!  I think I have it licked too, though!!!

[Tiger-Heli]

New handle ideas from my upcoming arcade FAQ:

White handles and Red buttons on a Yoke don't cut it with me!!!

[SirPoonga]

I got an email from Ricky Martin (Twistygrip dude, yes, that's his name!).  He said he knows about these issues, he's been watching this thread.  He's making a cutaway pic.  But since he can only do this stuff on weekends it might take some time.

[Tiger-Heli]

I got an email from Ricky Martin (Twistygrip dude, yes, that's his name!).  He said he knows about these issues, he's been watching this thread.  He's making a cutaway pic.  But since he can only do this stuff on weekends it might take some time.

Interesting, I e-mailed TwistyGrip a week ago, before I started the thread and still have heard no response.  I'd like to discuss these issues with him.

Today's update, I visited Lowe's again last night - They only sell ABS in 1.5 inch diameters, so I don't think I can find the 1-1/4 inch ABS locally.  Look like white handles for me    (Although it doesn't bother me that much).

Also, I checked the 1.5-inch male and female adapters again.  There is a little less than 5/8 of clearance on with the adapter tightened all the way down, but there is only a couple of threads more than 3/4 inch TOTAL clearance.  The adapter would catch a couple of threads and would mount on some 1x10, 1x3, etc. boards, but not all (3/4 is kinda a guideline for 1x? boards).  It would not mount on a 1/2-inch board.  I didn't try but 5/8 MDF should work well or I might end up routing (Dremeling) out the back of the 1x10.  Problem is you need to take a very small amount off, (1/16 to 3/16 would help, but 1/4 is too much).  OTOH, the male adapter has a wide flat flange so if you took too much off I think you could just glue it on and it would still work.

Also, Lowe's carry PE pipe (black Sil-O-Flex) in 1/2, 3/4, and 1-inch diameters.  Could replace some of the yoke parts if you want a black one.

Home Depot does not carry the ABS fittings.  I need to check their PVC fittings as they carry a different brand which might work better.

[rampy]

Today's update, I visited Lowe's again last night - They only sell ABS in 1.5 inch diameters, so I don't think I can find the 1-1/4 inch ABS locally.  Look like white handles for me    (Although it doesn't bother me that much).
work better.

Just a thought... is it out of the realm of possibility to die the ABS black using RIT dye or some industrial equivalent?  Would look better than paint, i'm guessing (if it "takes" to the plastic)

If you did try it.. be sure to let it soak enough or you'll end up with purple instead of black handles...

Maybe another off the wall idea would be to use that paint on truck bedliner stuff if you wanted a black textured feel...

Just a few random thoughts...

rampy

[Tiger-Heli]

Just a thought... is it out of the realm of possibility to die the ABS black using RIT dye or some industrial equivalent?  Would look better than paint, i'm guessing (if it "takes" to the plastic)

If you did try it.. be sure to let it soak enough or you'll end up with purple instead of black handles...

Maybe another off the wall idea would be to use that paint on truck bedliner stuff if you wanted a black textured feel...

Just a few random thoughts...

rampy

BTW, ABS already is black, you meant PVC!

Good ideas, Dunno!  TwistyGrip's plans say that PVC can't be painted reliably, but that stuff isn't paint.  I don't think I'll experiment with it, but if anyone else wants to . . .

[rampy]

BTW, ABS already is black, you meant PVC!

Good ideas, Dunno!  TwistyGrip's plans say that PVC can't be painted reliably, but that stuff isn't paint.  I don't think I'll experiment with it, but if anyone else wants to . . .

doht! I'm having that kind of morning... yeah PVC that's what I meant =)

rampy

[Tiger-Heli]

Update on the project.   Visited Home Depot yesterday.  The Tee fitting is 4-1/4 inches wide, so you won’t be able to insert it after the central box is built.  (Need to build the box around the Tee as you are going.

This might not be news to anyone else, but I experimented with the Dremel and the #409 cutoff wheels and some excess CPVC pipe I had lying around.  I  found I could stack four disks on the mandrel and cut a 3/16-inch slot, instead of the normal 1/32-inch slots (estimates, so don’t complain about the math.)  The larger stack also was stronger for elongating the slot once I had it cut.

Regarding the top wood, this seems to be more of a problem than I expected.  The coupling will not work with 3/4-inch thick wood and is too wide for 1/2-inch or even 5/8 inch.  The HD I was at only sells 3/4-inch and 1/2-inch MDF, so I might go with 5/8-inch plywood.  This might be okay as the laminate adds some thickness, or I could add some laminate samples to the bottom side to shim it out to a larger thickness.  

[TwistyGrip]

Yes, I'm Ricky Martin, still the owner of TwistyGrip (despite the CustomArcade disaster).  I've been thinking about the best way to help you, TigerHeli.  email me again - I always reply.  Like Saint, Real Life (TM) has a grip on my life but after reading this thread I've been inspired to fit in one last project to clear up the confusion.

I have enough parts for one last TwistyGrip that I'll give to Saint.  I'll videotape the whole thing and make the MPEG online.  It will be bit-by-bit, so you can email me back if you want me to shoot a different angle.  Do you think that will work?  Let me know!

Now here's where *I* need help.  The MPEG will be huge, so I need a place to put the file.  I'll try my own server first, but even an hour of build time footage will eventually be too large.  Any sugestions?

Here's some old footage (4 megs) on the x-axis shaft.  However, somewhere in this thread someone *did* nail the answer to your question about the dowel sticking out.

[Tiger-Heli]

Yes, I'm Ricky Martin, still the owner of TwistyGrip (despite the CustomArcade disaster).  I've been thinking about the best way to help you, TigerHeli.  email me again - I always reply.  Like Saint, Real Life (TM) has a grip on my life but after reading this thread I've been inspired to fit in one last project to clear up the confusion.

Okay, I'll E-mail you today.

I have enough parts for one last TwistyGrip that I'll give to Saint.  I'll videotape the whole thing and make the MPEG online.  It will be bit-by-bit, so you can email me back if you want me to shoot a different angle.  Do you think that will work?  Let me know!

Sounds like a good idea to me.

Now here's where *I* need help.  The MPEG will be huge, so I need a place to put the file.  I'll try my own server first, but even an hour of build time footage will eventually be too large.  Any sugestions?

Can't help you there.  MameWorld gives me a little web space for posting, but I don't think they can afford the bandwidth for that.  I can ask if no one else has any suggestions.

Here's some old footage (4 megs) on the x-axis shaft.  However, somewhere in this thread someone *did* nail the answer to your question about the dowel sticking out.

I never saw it in the thread, but it's clear from the video.  The shaft has to stick out so you can position it after it's installed.  I still think I might try letting the shaft extend a 1/4-inch on the left side and using vise grips to position it, as the return spings work much better if the shaft doesn't go through the right side.  Some of this won't make sense until I actually start buying parts and trying stuff out.

[rampy]

I'd consider hosting it. How big do you think it'll be?  100 megs? 600 megs?  

I'm pretty sure even with "standard" windows media player compression/formatting (yuck) it could be chopped down signifigantly... or Divx;)

Please let me know, and i'll setup a subdomain and some space if I can accomodate you.

Rampy

PS (no it's not a geoshitties account - I have a modest VPS that I can divvy up a largish pool of space/bandwith)

[TwistyGrip]

Sorry TigerHeli, I didn't get any email yet.

Rampy, this would be an interesting project.  The compression probably couldn't overcome over an hour of video, so I'll pare the full video down to explaining only the critical/confusing parts.  I've already started shooting, and there's a lot of raw footage.  Too much in fact.  Are there any areas in particular anyone wants to see?  I'm starting from the very beginning and addressing the problems as they come up.

[Tiger-Heli]

Sorry TigerHeli, I didn't get any email yet.

Check your PM (Personal Messages at the top), I might not have had your correct E-mail address.

[saint]

Did this ever go anywhere?  Very interested!

--- saint

[Tiger-Heli]

Did this ever go anywhere?  Very interested!

--- saint

Not that I know of.  I never saw anything beyond the 4M video.  And I never built a Twisty Grip, although I still have the sketches and ideas I was working on.

[allroy1975]

I've been going nuts thinking about a SW Yoke
I want one bad.

I don't care if original, but I want one that feels nice and works the way the old one did.  GREAT CONTROL!

Is there a reason you couldn't make a small box out of 2x4s (should be strong) then drill a hole through the middle horizontally and then run a little metal pipe through it and put some other triggers on it?

I don't know.  It just seems like this shouldn't be that hard to reproduce with something a little more sturdy and better looking than white PVC pipe.

I'm super interested in this too...

Allroy

[Tiger-Heli]

I've been going nuts thinking about a SW Yoke
I want one bad.

I don't care if original, but I want one that feels nice and works the way the old one did.  GREAT CONTROL!

Is there a reason you couldn't make a small box out of 2x4s (should be strong) then drill a hole through the middle horizontally and then run a little metal pipe through it and put some other triggers on it?

I don't know.  It just seems like this shouldn't be that hard to reproduce with something a little more sturdy and better looking than white PVC pipe.

I'm super interested in this too...

Allroy

Well, that's basically what I was attempting to do.  2x4's are probably too bulky, but 1x4's could work.

As I see it, these are your problems:  PVC is very inexpensive, but the Twisty-Grip still ends up about $40, IIRC.  Adding custom parts increases the cost, and if the cost goes over $100, you probably could buy an original yoke, which will be sturdier and better made than a home-built project.

[allroy1975]

would it be possible for someone with a SW/Atari yoke to measure all the parts of the controller along with gear sizes, number of teeth, and stuff like how long shafts are?  case (box in the middle) size and all that?

That would be a big help i think...

Allroy

[Chris]

would it be possible for someone with a SW/Atari yoke to measure all the parts of the controller along with gear sizes, number of teeth, and stuff like how long shafts are?  case (box in the middle) size and all that?

This has already been done; you just need to hunt down the threads.  There's a Word template at http://www.fraggersxtreme.com/museum/Temp/yokeplans.zip (Thanks, Tiger-Heli) with life-size drawings of the yoke, and the gear specs have definately been posted before.

--Chris

[Tiger-Heli]

would it be possible for someone with a SW/Atari yoke to measure all the parts of the controller along with gear sizes, number of teeth, and stuff like how long shafts are?  case (box in the middle) size and all that?

Thanks Chris!  I would have forgotten I had that up there.

AllRoy - Keep in mind that you don't really need gear sizes unless you are making a reproduction of the original yoke.  Otherwise you could probably eliminate most of the gears and save some cost/complexity.

What would be really neat would be if someone made replica/replacement yokes using original dimensions and simplified plans and sold them commercially.

This has already been done; you just need to hunt down the threads.  There's a Word template at http://www.fraggersxtreme.com/museum/Temp/yokeplans.zip (Thanks, Tiger-Heli) with life-size drawings of the yoke, and the gear specs have definately been posted before.

--Chris

[allroy1975]

What would be really neat would be if someone made replica/replacement yokes using original dimensions and simplified plans and sold them commercially.

yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking about doing.  or even something like the Twistygrip plans but using more "real" arcade stuff...get the exact gear size and stuff like that, find a metal box to house the wires and stuff...plus I don't think I can do this without putting a button in the middle for spy hunter.

The idea I had the other day was to make the whole frame from 2x4's just so it'd be sturday, then cover it all (once built) in black laminate.
We'll see what's easier.  I don't mind shelling out some cash for a good looking controller, even if it's not an "original".  So I'd like those bob roberts grips.

Allroy