All:
Please understand I am not expecting "perfect"... (especially for the price) A tiny scratch here, a scuff there that isn't too visible playing black background classic 80's games is not a problem. Nor would have been "slight" burn in. But when you can see it through windows and what-not, it just wasn't acceptable.
I wish it wasn't a 99 pound bohemeth.
But I worry that they won't pack it well on the return and then it will get damaged, and then I'm totally out of luck as they said they would not do any further returns (understandable, but now that increases the risk factor significantly).
It's 60/40 right now.. 60% of me wants the refund, walk away, and put it towards something else. 40% says, ah, what the hell, get it, try it, and if still don't like it, I'm SURE someone will pay what I paid for it locally and then I'm still not out anything, or only a few bucks. PERHAPS. Though browsing the auction sites shows normal 21" PC monitors under $100 (+$60 shipping) for used ones too. But the open frame, for cabinet use *would have been* perfect.
But the risk it it arriving in worse and/or damaged condition, then it's a piece of $102 glass and metal paper weight. (a darn good one at that)... That's what's holding me back.
Then, Rampy explains his scanline problems... I read the other post a while back.
Me thinks (my limited monitor knowledge) that you either:
1) Simply jostled a connection and it is quicly fixable
2) You caused a particle to fall towards the gun in the tube (there are always particles like phosphor and metal from the shadow mask in there that can come off over time) and now have shorted one of the guns to the heating elements. (Search on the net for SCI.ELECTRONICS FAQ and "H-K" or "Heater-Cathode Short".)
Basically it's keeping the gun "on" by shorting it to the heater wire that keeps it warm ready to "shoot". Therefore if the signal is turned off to the gun, the short causes it to still glow low, thus allowing you to see all the horizontal and vertical retraces the gun does across the screen. If you search that SCI.ELECTRONICS FAQ you will see this sounds most like your problem, if memory serves.
This is fixable in a couple ways... You can put the tube face down and lightly tap the back, or CAREFULLY tap around the neck, but be warned it could break VERY easily! Then the particle will fall from the gun and towards the shadow mask (possibly causing a "dead" pixel to show up). Or, you can take it in and have them drive a ton of extra voltage through the heater coil (normally < 10 volts if I remember) to "burn" the particle off. But this can ruin the heater or gun or screen face too... it's a last resort.
So, if you're having that problem and others had divots (though no one else said anything about burn-in did they?) That makes me want a replacement less. A bad 21" for $102 is not worth it.
I guess the 19" will have to do, which sucks because I MAINLY will play vertical games, and they are only 13.5" on the horizontal screen. (And horizontals are only 18" since it's a computer monitor not TV tube, so again, smaller than "real arcade)...
It all sucks.. I had my heart set on a 20" visible screen!!!!!!!