
Used a piece of 1/8" threaded rod. Found a drawer knob(?) threaded inside with 1/8". The little square is a cube of wood, attached to the cp, and with a tiny eye-hook screwed in also- the rod slides through the eye, serves as the pivot point.
On the Tstick's white knob(the 4/8 switch) I used another eyehook with tiny nuts on either side to keep the other end of the rod in place & attached to the tstick. The eye-hook holes are the same height off of the CP so that when the rod goes through both, it's perfectly parallel to the plane of the CP
Also I had to file some of the tstick away- in the groove that the original white knob slides through, from 4way to 8way. Unmodified you need to give slight pressure to lift the knob before you can slide it to switch. I smoothed it out so that only the one motion is needed
Turns out this caused some problems. If you move the stick in circles, it causes the white actuator ring(inside the tstick, its the round disc with square cutout) to move a bit. This causes the white switch to move a little, if you keep going i nthe same driection it keeps moving, if you start circling the other way it moves the other way. Some games would get a little too vigorous and Id start missing moves- with the restricter turned only partway it misses some diagonals and acts weird in general
I ended up filing some more out of that groove, at each end this time. Now theres a nice gentle curve there, enough to keep it from moving once it's at the far end