Building a Star wars yoke from scratch

[menace]

I mentioned this to a couple of guys at the last auction and figured I should post an update...I'm building one out of 1/4" ply and sheet metal--I'll post some pics and a brief how to, when i get it a little further along--I haven't taken as many pics as I should have so there may be some intuitive leaps required by the reader... but it feels and moves like the original so far.  What I could use is some close ups of the original and inside non-blurry shots would be especially appreciated--all my inside shots (that were clear) came from e-bay

[Magnet_Eye]

Damit! I am getting really annoyed with the whole Star Wars thing.. I mean, I love the game.. but is it really worth it to spend tons of hours and money to just play the game? And I doubt anyone who has built Star Wars controls actually ever won the game entirely...

I dunno... I  love that friggin game, but I am starting to question the obsession with it and the obsession to emulate the damn controls....for ONE game? JEEZ!

 

[tep0583]

Hell yes it is.

That was my absolute favorite arcade game of all time.

No BS.

(and it plays like crap with EVERY other controller I've ever user)

[menace]

I dunno... I  love that friggin game, but I am starting to question the obsession with it and the obsession to emulate the damn controls....for ONE game? JEEZ!

normally i would agree with you but I'm actually having fun putting this together and trying to keep it cheap without sacrificng feel and aesthetics (too much)--I'm hoping i can use it with spy hunter too since i desperately want to play that game properly as well

Also, its something i would only do if i could do it myself--if my only option was to buy the yoke then i could proabably live with out. *shrug*

[DrewKaree]

I'm just writing to say THANK YOU!

Thank you for spelling YOKE correctly.

I know this isn't a spelling bee here, but for some reason seeing someone type in "star wars YOLK[/i][/u] always makes me wonder..if they can't figure out that "no eggs were harmed in the making of this control",  HOW the heck can they figure out how to complete one of these things!?!?  

It's one thing to misspell for the sake of tender eyes that may be viewing this site, but my eyes are tender too, and some folks' spelling are like shards of glass in my eye!  

Some things trip a person's anal retentive nerve, others...pheh!

Sorry about that OT rant.

[Xiaou2]

 Menace,  I commend your efforts  : )    They are well worth it in the end... as you just cant play the game correctly without the YOLK.  

  (drewkaree...  you need to Lighten up.  Spelling a word incorrecly isnt a crime... or even worth a single bit of duress.  I may spell things wrong at times... but hey,  Ive got a good heart and I think that counts Far more than anything else in life.  Do not judge or see people for thier flaws ((if spelling wrong is hardly a major flaw )) ... rather seek to see them as you would want to be seen... with love, respect, understanding, forgivness...ect.   Remember that words are just a symbol for what we want to say..  if you can get the point across, whats the big deal?)

  I HIGHLY recomend that you make a pot 'port' so that you can plug/unplug a pedal into the y-axis... instead of using the back/forth motion of the yoke.  It just wont work well enough in spyhunter.  The game is too fast and furrious, and you will just get uber fusterated. (i tried with my yoke) Youll also enjoy other racing games much more that way.

 

[menace]

good tip--thanks!

[crashwg]

rather seek to see them as you would want to be seen... with love, respect, understanding, forgivness...ect.

Are you a chick?  Just givin' ya sh($ Xiaou2

[Stingray]

I look foreward to seeing your how-to, Menace.

-S

[MinerAl]

On the idea of a pot-port and pedals:  would my electric-guitar volume pedal (like a wah-wah but for volume instead of tone) work for a driving game pedal?  I can't imagine cobbling together anything more bullet proof or cooler looking.

This is what I'm talking about.

[GroovyTuesdaY]

Anyone ever make one of those yokes made from PVC pipe and some other stuff?  I remember seeing the site where they give you complete color walkthrough pictures etc., but i don't think i have ever seen where anyone built one of those.  

To answer whether or not its worth it to build a yoke for only one game.....YES, YES & HELL YES!!! lol.   What do you think this site is all about?  Its for us obsessed SOB's  who just can't do without the REAL thing!!!! I don't know how many times my girlfriend has had her friends over to our house and the conversation always comes up about my arcade controls and how they thinks it stupid to spend so much money on it etc.etc...   I always tell them to pi$$ off!  I tell them  that I LOVE ARCADE GAMES and made the controls because I LOVE THE ARCADE GAMES and if they don't like, to damn bad! lol, I don't remember ever "asking" anyone for their approval anyways lol.  
So, anyways, is it worth it?  If a game is worth alot to you as an individual, then hell yea its worth it!!! And don't ever let anyone make you feel stupid for thinking its worth it!  SCREW THEM HIPPIES!!! lol

~Nuff saiD~
GroovY~
 

[GamingGreg]

Anyone ever make one of those yokes made from PVC pipe and some other stuff?  I remember seeing the site where they give you complete color walkthrough pictures etc., but i don't think i have ever seen where anyone built one of those.  

The site you're talking about is http://www.twistygrip.com/.  I know some people have made these, and they do work, but I've heard that the "feel" just isn't the same.

I myself am debating whether I should build my own yoke, or buy one of gamecab's new yokes. Perhaps a hybrid of the twisty grip with happ handles could work? Not sure at this point.

[menace]

update--have the main unit assembled--have to track down some suitable gears and interface the sidewinder.  here's what i have so far:

[GamingGreg]

That's awesome menace!  Where did you get those grips? and how did you attach them to the metal pipe? drill holes and glue?

Looking forward to seeing more pics as your project progresses.

[menace]

civic83 is doing a first draft read of the "how-to" and I still have to find some gears, but i don't think it will be a problem--I will ask saint if the site can host my how to when its done.  

I'm amazed there was no comment on the color of the grips--you must have been biting your tongue...it will all be painted gloss black when the time comes.

[LoRDDeVO]

Are those grips from the spinny lollypop thingies or from the spinny light thingies the have at raves?

[GamingGreg]

civic83 is doing a first draft read of the "how-to" and I still have to find some gears, but i don't think it will be a problem--I will ask saint if the site can host my how to when its done.  

I'm amazed there was no comment on the color of the grips--you must have been biting your tongue...it will all be painted gloss black when the time comes.

Yeah I kind of was bitting my tongue.  I figured you were probably going to paint them.  And now that LoRDDeVO has mentioned it, they do look like the grips off of some candy lollipop toy.  I hope they are sturdy enough for you.

[JustMichael]

On the idea of a pot-port and pedals:  would my electric-guitar volume pedal (like a wah-wah but for volume instead of tone) work for a driving game pedal?  I can't imagine cobbling together anything more bullet proof or cooler looking.

This is what I'm talking about.

Nope.  The pot (potentiometer) needs to have a linear taper not a audio taper.   Now if you replaced the pot in the pedal with a 100K linear taper pot, you could hook it up directly to the gameport on the pc.  If the pedal turns the pot only part of the way, you could use a large value pot.  100K linear pots are easy to find so I would try that route first.

[Brax]

What I could use is some close ups of the original and inside non-blurry shots would be especially appreciated--all my inside shots (that were clear) came from e-bay

Damn, I wish you would have said something before the auction, I could have brought you the real thing to check out.  What areas do you need to see?

[menace]

Mighty kind of you brax--I could use a shot from the rear with its cover off (that didn't sound very good did it...) so i can see the x pot and a close top down shot so i can see the Y pot. thats about it!  thanks again!

[GamingGreg]

Does anyone know the range of motion for each axis on a real yoke?  It seems from what I remember it was around 180 degrees or less.  I don't believe it's a full 270 degrees like the driving wheels.

Also I noticed on 1up's page here, that there was a larger gear on the main axis and a smaller gear on the pot.  Does anyone know what the gear ratio (#of large gear teeth to # of small gear teeth) is on these two axis are?

Also, some basic dimensions of the yoke would help, if anyone has those.

[GroovyTuesdaY]

Menace, just wanted to make sure your aware that if your going to use spray paint for those plastic grips, you might want to make sure you are using a  "plastic safe"  paint.  If not, the accelerator chemical that is used in most spray paints can cause plastics to  be eaten. I don't think you want that lol.

Maybe there are some hobbyists out there who know some paints that are plastic safe.    I have used the spray paint they use on R/C lexan car bodies as it is plastic safe, so there is a start anyways.  Do some checking so you dont ruin your grips

groooovY~  

[Chris]

What I could use is some close ups of the original and inside non-blurry shots would be especially appreciated--all my inside shots (that were clear) came from e-bay

This is the closest I have...

[Tiger-Heli]

All - see this previous thread for a similar idea -

http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=2699;start=0

Menace - check you PM.

Also - I assume you will add thumb buttons, correct?

Any chance of you selling completed assemblies?

[menace]

Got your Pm--thanks for the tips!

The handles are from one of those spinny light things--they are remarkably tough for what they are--once painted with some krylon they should look pretty good--triggers will be red.  

As far as thumb buttons--i haven't added them as of yet--I played the game in mame with 2 buttons only--what were the functions of the other two--just mirrors?  or did they have distinct functions (its been so long since I've played on an actual machine I completely forget )

I doubt they will become a marketing thing--don't have the time, but I will be posting (hopefully here) a full HOW TO doc when they are finished.  My goal: No component over 10$ (including the sidewinder--they are so cheap now) out of parts you likely already have laying around or can readily obtain--there will be dimensioned drawings in there too so you don't have to think about it!

Anyways, if you can wait till I'm done, then all questions will be answered in time.  Keep the tips coming though--there may be (and quite likely) is things i'm forgetting about the original.

[Tiger-Heli]

As far as thumb buttons--i haven't added them as of yet--I played the game in mame with 2 buttons only--what were the functions of the other two--just mirrors?  or did they have distinct functions (its been so long since I've played on an actual machine I completely forget )

In Star wars, all 4 buttons (2 triggers and 2 thumbs) only fire the lasers.

In Empire Strikes Back, the triggers fire lasers and the thumb buttons fire TOW cables.

In Return of the Jedi, the triggers fire lasers, and the thumb buttons fire lasers and rotate the turret (left and right) on the AT-ST walker levels.

So for the SW series, you need the Triggers on the same button and the thumb buttons on independent buttons (3 inputs total).  I would wire each button to an individual input though, as that is how an original yoke was wired and it would be helpful for using the yoke with driving games, etc.  (or just more functionality in general).  You can always set MAME to "L Ctrl or L Shift" if a given game has only one input and you need the game to work with either trigger).

BTW - most SW MAME games are set up as:

Button 1 - Left Trigger
Button 2 - Left Thumb
Button 3 - Right Thumb
Button 4 - Right Trigger

[Gamecab]

I still have to find some gears, but i don't think it will be a problem--

Did you say gears?  Try www.mcmaster.com , and do a search for nylon gears.  I get my gears for the GameCab flight yokes from them.  The price can vary depending on what ratio that you actually need but in the end I think you will be happy with the results.  I tried different gears from other vendors but really was not too impressed.

Good Luck with the Yoke

Charlie

[Generic Eric]

well, I have a page of information (tread with caution, as it may be inaccurate, or I may have misqouted someone,) with various pictures in my signature

[Generic Eric]

<snipped>
Did you say gears?  Try www.mcmaster.com , and do a search for nylon gears.  I get my gears for the GameCab flight yokes from them.  
<snipped>
Charlie

Care to share the part numbers?

[menace]

thanks for the info guys--Since I'm building from scratch i have significantly more leeway in parts than in modifying an existing--It was my plan to use 2:1 gear ratio and hopefully with analogue adjustments in mame, should result in some fair representation.  If not, then I'll change the ratio to better suit.  i have a line on some gears from a hobby store so that if anyone ever wanted to duplicate my efforts it would be fairly easy.

[Gamecab]

<snipped>
Did you say gears?  Try www.mcmaster.com , and do a search for nylon gears.  I get my gears for the GameCab flight yokes from them.  
<snipped>
Charlie

Care to share the part numbers?

I use this part number for the 1/2 Inch shaft 57655K56.  I use this part number for the 1/4 inch pot 57655K55.  Both gears are perfect for the Yokes that I produce but be aware that you will have to add a set screw to both gears.  Due to the fact that both gears are 100% nylon you can drill a small hole and add your own in no time at all.   Keep in mind that the gears are not the cheapest priced as far as gears would go but they are of good quality.

Charlie

[saint]

Just email me when you're ready to put it online -- I'll be very happy to post it

My Yoke is at work right now, and my grips are elsewhere, but if you still need pictures of hte insides let me know and I can get them next week.

--- saint

civic83 is doing a first draft read of the "how-to" and I still have to find some gears, but i don't think it will be a problem--I will ask saint if the site can host my how to when its done.  

I'm amazed there was no comment on the color of the grips--you must have been biting your tongue...it will all be painted gloss black when the time comes.

[menace]

Thanks saint!  I appreciate the webspace --so far its just a word doc with pictures that sits around 2mb (50% done or so) but i'll forward it along when its all finished and proofed (as well as an engineer can proof writing that is )

[Stormy151]

Maybe an odd question, but could somebody with an original Atari yoke tell me how long/wide/deep the actual grips are?  I know I could buy a set of grips from Bob Roberts or Happ, but I'd like to try my hand at making a set- more fun that way...

[FractalWalk]

A handgrip on the Atari yoke is about 5"long,  1" wide and 2" deep at its widest part.

[menace]

Ok, POT question (not the give-you-the-munchies kind )  the dual strikes are 20k pots and have 180 degree range of motion but I've noticed 1up and others have hooked up the original atari pots (unknown resistance) and all worked well.  What pot can give me the 3/4 turn that I need and still function with the dual strike.  I guess i could change the gear ratio(now 2:1), but the gears i found are easy to find and cheap making them a great candidate for this little project.

[Brax]

My understanding is that the dual strikes use 20k pots but they only use 1/4 turn for their range of motion which equals only 5k (used). This matches the arcade pots of 5k. Desolder the dual strike pots, wire up the arcade pots and you're good to go.

(I've yet to do mine but that's my understanding of the process.) Let me know if I'm horribly off base.

[menace]

So if i can find a 5k--3/4 turn pot, I can use its entire range of motion on my home built one, and be recognized by the dual strike--ok--thanks for the clarification!

[GamingGreg]

So if i can find a 5k--3/4 turn pot, I can use its entire range of motion on my home built one, and be recognized by the dual strike--ok--thanks for the clarification!

I don't think the original yoke had a full 3/4 (270 degrees) of travel on any axis.  My guess is that it's just under 180 degrees on the x-axis and around 90 degrees on the y-axis (maybe a bit more).

Can anyone tell us the amount of travel allowed on each axis from the original yoke?

[Xiaou2]

 I cant tell exactly from your pic... but are the grips completely vertical or are they angles inwards at the top like the original yoke?

 Its VERY important to angle the grips.  My first yoke attempt had no slants...  i found that pushing up and down too far on the y axis caused pain and discomfort on the wrist.  

 The inward angle helps to turn your wrist, into a position that allows greater up/down travel, without discomfort.

  The slants wernt just for deco as i once thought...  so I rebuilt the sleeves that connected to the grips with a slanted mounting cut... and it worked so much better.