Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up --- Bug Reports --- Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys  (Read 31019 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7675
  • Last login:Today at 03:42:11 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #280 on: January 13, 2022, 04:57:21 pm »
Any ideas on how to secure the marquee place?  I routed out an area behind the marquee cutout where it will sit but it "floats" meaning when it is in the recessed area there is like 1/4"-1/2" all the way around that the marquee does not fill.  What can I do to keep it in place?  When it is correctly positioned, I also have to fight gravity because it will want to slide down 1/4"-1/2" to sit on the bottom lip of the cutout.



I have 2 pieces of plexiglas and the marquee print sandwiched in between. I am thinking of using packing/scotch tape to keep these 3 pieces together (just slightly covering the edge that will not be seen and then using double-sided tape along that same edge to attach it to the MDF.  This will hold short-term but I think as the MDF soaks up the glue it will eventually fail.  Any ideas on how to keep it in place (not permanently)?

Also, would you scuff the back piece of plexiglas with sandpaper to diffuse the LED light evenly?   :cheers:

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2220
  • Last login:Today at 07:04:25 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #281 on: January 13, 2022, 06:03:27 pm »
You can get translucent white plexi designed to diffuse light, I've used it before for marquees, works well. I've also used plain white paper, works ok-ish.
Check out my completed projects!


javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7675
  • Last login:Today at 03:42:11 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #282 on: January 14, 2022, 10:56:44 am »
You can get translucent white plexi designed to diffuse light, I've used it before for marquees, works well. I've also used plain white paper, works ok-ish.

I am not putting one more dollar into these LOL so I think I'm just going to scuff up the plexi I already have cut for behind the marquee.  Going to hopefully get to this today if I can figure out how to hold the marque securely in place.   :cheers:

10yard

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 64
  • Last login:Today at 07:24:53 pm
  • L BREAK into program
    • DKAFE Frontend
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #283 on: January 14, 2022, 11:52:20 am »
Any ideas on how to secure the marquee place?  I routed out an area behind the marquee cutout where it will sit but it "floats" meaning when it is in the recessed area there is like 1/4"-1/2" all the way around that the marquee does not fill.  What can I do to keep it in place?  When it is correctly positioned, I also have to fight gravity because it will want to slide down 1/4"-1/2" to sit on the bottom lip of the cutout.



I have 2 pieces of plexiglas and the marquee print sandwiched in between. I am thinking of using packing/scotch tape to keep these 3 pieces together (just slightly covering the edge that will not be seen and then using double-sided tape along that same edge to attach it to the MDF.  This will hold short-term but I think as the MDF soaks up the glue it will eventually fail.  Any ideas on how to keep it in place (not permanently)?


You could use "J" brackets (or adapt what brackets you have available) to fix/push the marquee in place within the recess.  I'm thinking something along these lines. 

« Last Edit: January 14, 2022, 11:55:05 am by 10yard »
Check out my Donkey Kong Arcade Frontend at https://github.com/10yard/dkafe#readme

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7675
  • Last login:Today at 03:42:11 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #284 on: January 14, 2022, 12:41:53 pm »
This is giving me an idea.  I think Iím going to tape everything together around the edge so the plexiglas/marquee/plexiglas ďsandwichĒ stays together as one piece making sure the tape won't be visible through the cutout on the front panel and then put a very very thin strip of double sided tape around the edge so I can stick it in place.

Then maybe I can use weatherstripping instead of the J brackets but same idea of wedging it in place.  Then I can add some cleats along the top and bottom to create some pressure against the panel to make sure it doesnít move because the glue will absorb into the MDF over time.

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7675
  • Last login:Today at 03:42:11 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #285 on: January 14, 2022, 03:38:47 pm »
Alright, I think I have this sorted.  I found some clips in a drawer that seem to be working:



These might have come with a frame or something and Iím sure Iíll be cursing if I ever actually need them but whatever.  I found 8 of them which should be enough for both cabs.

The red you see in the pic is double sided foam tape that I added to the end of each clip to not scratch the plexiglas and also let me tighten the screw down pretty good.

Hereís how it came out:





All thatís left is to sort out the lighting and install the CPs.  :cheers:

bobbyb13

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1063
  • Last login:Today at 02:38:36 pm
  • I'm TRYing to build arcade controls!
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #286 on: January 14, 2022, 08:19:49 pm »
Removable.
Adjustable.
Inexpensive.
Simple.

Elegant!
What's that watermelon doing there?

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2220
  • Last login:Today at 07:04:25 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #287 on: January 14, 2022, 08:45:02 pm »
Lol, in my experience most arcade operators would do similar, just use 2 pieces of Perspex/plexi and put the uglier, more scratched one, at the back. Less cost, more convenience.

Having said that, a translucent piece at back really does make a marquee shine, so long as you have some good art/print to put there, and the budget of course :%
Check out my completed projects!


vertexguy

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 304
  • Last login:Today at 11:05:43 am
  • ...but this one goes to 11.
    • forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161694.0.html
    • V E R T E X G U Y - The Online Portfolio of Chris Kline
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #288 on: January 14, 2022, 11:18:24 pm »
Javery I'm curious what you're planning to light the marquee?  A LED strip?  A simple 1 inch deep cardboard box behind it with the inside painted white and a led strip around the back wall should light that up easily enough.  White surface reflection works wonders

javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7675
  • Last login:Today at 03:42:11 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #289 on: January 15, 2022, 12:11:11 pm »
Removable.
Adjustable.
Inexpensive.
Simple.

Elegant!

LOL - thanks.  Inexpensive and elegant are my 2 favorite things although I often fail on the inexpensive part.   :laugh:

Lol, in my experience most arcade operators would do similar, just use 2 pieces of Perspex/plexi and put the uglier, more scratched one, at the back. Less cost, more convenience.

Having said that, a translucent piece at back really does make a marquee shine, so long as you have some good art/print to put there, and the budget of course :%

So I should scuff up the back piece, right?  As it stands now, it is transparent and I think roughing the surface with some sandpaper will help diffuse the light.

Javery I'm curious what you're planning to light the marquee?  A LED strip?  A simple 1 inch deep cardboard box behind it with the inside painted white and a led strip around the back wall should light that up easily enough.  White surface reflection works wonders

I made a cardboard box but lined it with aluminum foil.  Zeb also said I should have covered it in white paper instead so I might do that.  I bought a USB powered LED strip for $8 from Amazon (the kind with the peel off backing to stick it to a surface) but it's not long enough.  At only 18" I can only span the marquee width one time.  I should have bought a longer strip but the 36" strips are only in soft white (not cool white like I wanted).  I am returning them and might take a drive to home depot today to see if I can get something there.

It's the little details like this that always slow me down at the ned because I didn't think it trough and just thought I'd wing it when the time comes...

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2220
  • Last login:Today at 07:04:25 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #290 on: January 15, 2022, 06:37:33 pm »
So I should scuff up the back piece, right?  As it stands now, it is transparent and I think roughing the surface with some sandpaper will help diffuse the light.

Honestly, I think roughing up the surface of the back piece is a mistake. It will block more than diffuse the light, and introduce colours that aren't in your art. What you want to see when you look at the marquee is light, filtered through the colours on your marquee art. I rather like your art a lot, like a Monet it is an outdoor scene full of natural light, colour and activity. You don't want to be putting a grey wash through that.

I once did a few Mortal Kombat themed cabs and got some very nice marquee art printed, designed to be backlit. I then experimented with clear perspex, paper, and that translucent white diffuser I mentioned. Then, because I didn't quite trust my own eyes and objectivity, I took photos of the results so I could compare them side-by-side. The translucent white perspex backing won the competition easily, then colours were clear and bright with the lamp itself not visible at all. Done right, the white paper behind looked acceptable in 2nd place, lamp not visible but light/colour was dulled a little. Plain clear perspex didn't diffuse the light at all, uneven bright spots obscured the details in the art, lamp was essentially "visible" and, to my eyes, looked barely acceptable. I didn't try scratching but refer my comments above for why.

I wish I could produce the photos from that test here and now, but it was many years ago now and was only done for myself to understand. Even if I could find the photos, I couldn't be sure of the right captions/descriptions after all these years, so you'll just have to believe me  ;)

Javery I'm curious what you're planning to light the marquee?  A LED strip?  A simple 1 inch deep cardboard box behind it with the inside painted white and a led strip around the back wall should light that up easily enough.  White surface reflection works wonders

I made a cardboard box but lined it with aluminum foil.  Zeb also said I should have covered it in white paper instead so I might do that.  I bought a USB powered LED strip for $8 from Amazon (the kind with the peel off backing to stick it to a surface) but it's not long enough.  At only 18" I can only span the marquee width one time.  I should have bought a longer strip but the 36" strips are only in soft white (not cool white like I wanted).  I am returning them and might take a drive to home depot today to see if I can get something there.

IIRC, what I actually suggested was painting the inside of the box with some plain white paint. This will reflect just the visible light. "Ceiling white" is ideal if you have it, but otherwise (and thinking $$$) whatever leftover cans you might have from painting the house or something will look fine, so long as it is at least mostly white (most wall paints are actually off-white, which is why I recommended ceiling white above). Remove the foil, because it will look too harsh (shiny, reflects images, not just light) and will reflect pretty much everything except gamma rays back at your balls, and don't use paper (feels like a fire hazard).

As for the LED colours - cool white includes more of the light spectrum and will highlight the sky part (blues, violets) of your marquee more. A warmer light will highlight the beach parts (reds, orange, yellow) more. Whatever works for you!

I do love your work on these cabs. The marquee is a standout, a unique part that you want to emphasise for that feeling of an Avery family beach holiday that you want to capture.

Check out my completed projects!


javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7675
  • Last login:Today at 03:42:11 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #291 on: January 16, 2022, 09:44:58 am »
Honestly, I think roughing up the surface of the back piece is a mistake. It will block more than diffuse the light, and introduce colours that aren't in your art. What you want to see when you look at the marquee is light, filtered through the colours on your marquee art. I rather like your art a lot, like a Monet it is an outdoor scene full of natural light, colour and activity. You don't want to be putting a grey wash through that.

I once did a few Mortal Kombat themed cabs and got some very nice marquee art printed, designed to be backlit. I then experimented with clear perspex, paper, and that translucent white diffuser I mentioned. Then, because I didn't quite trust my own eyes and objectivity, I took photos of the results so I could compare them side-by-side. The translucent white perspex backing won the competition easily, then colours were clear and bright with the lamp itself not visible at all. Done right, the white paper behind looked acceptable in 2nd place, lamp not visible but light/colour was dulled a little. Plain clear perspex didn't diffuse the light at all, uneven bright spots obscured the details in the art, lamp was essentially "visible" and, to my eyes, looked barely acceptable. I didn't try scratching but refer my comments above for why.

This is my worry with a completely transparent piece of plexiglas as the backer.  I am afraid the light will not be distributed evenly and I'll see the hot spots behind the marquee.  I'm going to experiment a bit and I might just bite the bullet and get something like THIS but I really don't want to.

IIRC, what I actually suggested was painting the inside of the box with some plain white paint. This will reflect just the visible light. "Ceiling white" is ideal if you have it, but otherwise (and thinking $$$) whatever leftover cans you might have from painting the house or something will look fine, so long as it is at least mostly white (most wall paints are actually off-white, which is why I recommended ceiling white above). Remove the foil, because it will look too harsh (shiny, reflects images, not just light) and will reflect pretty much everything except gamma rays back at your balls, and don't use paper (feels like a fire hazard).

Oh yeah - white paint.  I've got tons of it (I am slowly using up a 5 gallon tub of Bin Zissner) so it should be easy to remove the foil and paint the inside of the box... although painting cardboard seems kind of weird to me but no reason why it shouldn't work.

As for the LED colours - cool white includes more of the light spectrum and will highlight the sky part (blues, violets) of your marquee more. A warmer light will highlight the beach parts (reds, orange, yellow) more. Whatever works for you!

This is good to know - I won't sweat too much over it since these will not be in my house anyway.

I do love your work on these cabs. The marquee is a standout, a unique part that you want to emphasise for that feeling of an Avery family beach holiday that you want to capture.

Thanks - I wanted to make something unique and the art was the only way to do it.  In hindsight I don't think I would have painted the front black knowing how the marquee would turn out but it's only straight on where it's bugging me.  When taken together with the woodgrain side panels it looks really nice.  Also, the bright colors on the CPO should also help liven it up a bit.  Live and learn!   :cheers:

vertexguy

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 304
  • Last login:Today at 11:05:43 am
  • ...but this one goes to 11.
    • forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161694.0.html
    • V E R T E X G U Y - The Online Portfolio of Chris Kline
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #292 on: January 16, 2022, 08:34:04 pm »
This is my worry with a completely transparent piece of plexiglas as the backer.  I am afraid the light will not be distributed evenly and I'll see the hot spots behind the marquee.  I'm going to experiment a bit and I might just bite the bullet and get something like THIS but I really don't want to.

You are correct in your thinking.  Clear plexi will not diffuse a light source at all.  The thing is, it doesn't need to.  Think of the white box inner walls like giant light sources.  You want to shine your LEDs sideways to illuminate the back white walls, not the art. It's about reflective light.  You might even experiment with white paper on the back of the marquee.  The goal is for the light to bounce around like crazy behind the marquee before finally escaping through it.

Now to be fair my only experience with this approach is on the control and decorative lighting tests from my thread, but its working great so far.  I was going to try the same approach on my marquee when it's time.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2022, 11:57:19 pm by vertexguy »

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2220
  • Last login:Today at 07:04:25 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #293 on: January 17, 2022, 07:12:12 am »
I Googled up "light diffuser", very interesting.

If you can't afford a few dollars and the time to go down to your local plastics shop for a light diffuser backing piece for your marquee, try some baking paper. Baking paper is just the right translucency and comes in a roll, so easy to cut to size. If one piece isn't enough, just a second piece and add it in. Even better, it won't burn easily so no added fire risk :D
Check out my completed projects!


javeryh

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7675
  • Last login:Today at 03:42:11 pm
Re: javeryh's Salisbury Beach Twin Tullys
« Reply #294 on: Yesterday at 02:10:54 pm »
You are correct in your thinking.  Clear plexi will not diffuse a light source at all.  The thing is, it doesn't need to.  Think of the white box inner walls like giant light sources.  You want to shine your LEDs sideways to illuminate the back white walls, not the art. It's about reflective light.  You might even experiment with white paper on the back of the marquee.  The goal is for the light to bounce around like crazy behind the marquee before finally escaping through it.

Now to be fair my only experience with this approach is on the control and decorative lighting tests from my thread, but its working great so far.  I was going to try the same approach on my marquee when it's time.

Well I'm one step closer... just finished painting my cardboard boxes with some Kilz white primer/sealer.  Total slop job but I think it will work.  Ended up painting over layers of blue painter's tape and black cardboard.  It's... white.

I Googled up "light diffuser", very interesting.

If you can't afford a few dollars and the time to go down to your local plastics shop for a light diffuser backing piece for your marquee, try some baking paper. Baking paper is just the right translucency and comes in a roll, so easy to cut to size. If one piece isn't enough, just a second piece and add it in. Even better, it won't burn easily so no added fire risk :D

There has to be some tracing paper in my daughter's art supplies.  I could easily attach a piece to the back of the marquee plexiglas but maybe I won't have to.  The GameOnGrafix marque diffuses the light really well.  I'll know more once I set it all up hopefully this afternoon if I can get off these conference calls...