javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy

[jennifer]

 

[Zebidee]

I suggest toggle clamps mounted under the panel. You'll probably need to get your hand up through some wires, but at least there shouldn't be anything nastier than 5v there.

This is an example of what I mean by toggle clamps. Lever gets mounted to side of cabinet, hook onto CP. You push lever down to secure, pull it up to release. I have another version on my old cabs but can't find a link to them new anywhere, might be too old or whatever.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33038641642.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.23313af5lQ1LrG&algo_pvid=2fcd4ee8-ed99-4c40-9436-238d2364b963&algo_expid=2fcd4ee8-ed99-4c40-9436-238d2364b963-22&btsid=0bb0620316100598159594460e09f8&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

[yamatetsu]

Velcro? You might need to staple it to the wood though just to stop it peeling off.

Seconded. I bought a strip of velcro in a DIY store and used it on my Pinup CP. That thing doesn't move a bit, it is even a bit difficult to get it off the battens. If the velcro peels off, just replace it.

Another option would be using dowels. Sand the upper halves of the dowels a bit so that the CP can't move but you can still pull it off easily.

[javeryh]

Thanks for the suggestions.  You guys have given me a lot to think about...

Velcro was something floating around in my head and the reason I didn't think it would work is not because of strength but because of getting the CP to sit exactly where I want it to sit and also level since velcro can be (slightly) compressed.  It is important that the front lip of the CP sit as close as possible to the front face of the cabinet so the roundover looks clean (it won't look 100% clean due to the difference between laminate front and polycarbonite CPO being slightly different shades of black).  If I used velcro, I'd have to lower the CP support battons by the thickness of the velcro.  Probably not a huge deal, right?  I wish there was a way to test this before committing.

Dowels are another really cool idea that never crossed my mind... I'm not sure I have the skills to make it all line up though.  I'd have to be PERFECT with the holes both underneath the CP (with only 1/2" to grab into) and also the battons.  This would prevent sliding but maybe not pulling up (although pulling up on the CP during play is not really a concern).

The toggle clamps are exactly my original idea and what I was planning all along.  These are the ones I have on hand:



Getting everything lined up will be tricky, but not impossible (I think).  The main issue is getting the clips in exactly the right place on the inside of the cabinet.  I am reasonably sure the pressure of the clamps pulling down will be enough so stop the CP from sliding forwards or backwards (and actually forwards will be impossible once the glass is installed over the monitor).  Angle brackets seem like a variation on the toggle clamps so we are on the same page there.

Still not sure.  Probably a toss up between the toggle clamps and the velcro.  I'll start with the toggle clamps and if I can't get it just right I will try the velcro.   

I think today is the day... it was going to be yesterday but instead I watched 9 hours of football like an idiot especially when I had no rooting interest whatsoever...   

[yamatetsu]

Velcro was something floating around in my head and the reason I didn't think it would work is not because of strength but because of getting the CP to sit exactly where I want it to sit and also level since velcro can be (slightly) compressed.  It is important that the front lip of the CP sit as close as possible to the front face of the cabinet so the roundover looks clean (it won't look 100% clean due to the difference between laminate front and polycarbonite CPO being slightly different shades of black).  If I used velcro, I'd have to lower the CP support battons by the thickness of the velcro.  Probably not a huge deal, right?  I wish there was a way to test this before committing.

Testing is easy. Take a piece of scrap wood, screw some battons on it, apply velcro, apply velcro to the CP, connect. Clamp the whole thing down, try to move the CP. You won't be able to.

As for aligning the CP and the front: Screw/glue some stop blocks under the CP (front, left and right) so that the CP will be inserted in the perfect position and cannot be moved.

[javeryh]

Velcro was something floating around in my head and the reason I didn't think it would work is not because of strength but because of getting the CP to sit exactly where I want it to sit and also level since velcro can be (slightly) compressed.  It is important that the front lip of the CP sit as close as possible to the front face of the cabinet so the roundover looks clean (it won't look 100% clean due to the difference between laminate front and polycarbonite CPO being slightly different shades of black).  If I used velcro, I'd have to lower the CP support battons by the thickness of the velcro.  Probably not a huge deal, right?  I wish there was a way to test this before committing.

Testing is easy. Take a piece of scrap wood, screw some battons on it, apply velcro, apply velcro to the CP, connect. Clamp the whole thing down, try to move the CP. You won't be able to.

As for aligning the CP and the front: Screw/glue some stop blocks under the CP (front, left and right) so that the CP will be inserted in the perfect position and cannot be moved.

Damn.  I wish you could have just come over and done this for me.  I'm an idiot.  I just spent like 3 hours getting everything PERFECT and now I just realized that the side battons lock the monitor in the cabinet... so I can't take it out to install the bottom 1/2 of the toggle clamps without unscrewing everything.  Good thing I didn't glue the battons in place.

Your idea about the stop blocks is genius.  I think 2 small pieces towards the front will lock everything in place.

[javeryh]

OK the stop blocks are an absolute necessity.  The clips work (mostly - I need to find tune since one side is a little loose) but I can still easily pull the CP forward with normal play on the joystick.  The blocks should prevent that movement - I’ll install them tomorrow.  Took me 4+ hours to basically install the battons and clips because I’m slow... in more ways than one apparently.

[javeryh]

Control Panel is secure.  This part was fun.  I decided on using the clips I had laying around. 

First thing I did was finally attach the battons to the cabinet but I had to be careful where I put the screws - I didn't want to them to get in the way of the clip hardware.  I also wanted about 1/2" overhang (or is it underhang?) so that the glass that will eventually cover the monitor has something to rest on.  So the battons support both the CP and the monitor glass.





Next, after some careful measuring, I installed the clips.  You can see in this shot that I had to add a small piece of scrapwood under the bracket because the batton holding the monitor was not long enough.  The screw sticking up to the left of the clip is a stop for the monitor.  It is held in place by gravity only but because of the angle I needed something to stop it from sliding all the way down and out of place.  The screw does the trick.





And here is a shot from underneath with the control panel in place.  There will be two USB cables coming off of the panel for the iPAC2 and the servostik motor which I'll install once I'm ready to put the computer inside.  There won't be a lot of room to work with once the monitor is back in pace but I did check and I can reach the clips if I stick my arm up through the coin door.



And here's where I'm at.  I'd say it's looking good!



Another minor thing I did was finish the joystick dustwasher.  I had an extra 38mm clear dustwasher that I ordered from Focus Attack a while ago (it's really just a piece of plastic) that I spray painted black on one side.  When you flip it over so the painted side is face down, it looks perfect. 

Next up is figuring out where to put the volume knob for the speakers I ripped apart.  It's just a loose PCB with the knob attached so I'll probably try mounting it just inside the coin door somehow.   

[Zebidee]

Looking niiiiiice. Glad you went with the clips/clamps, CP should be rock-solid now.

BTW love the wood veneer, really screams retro and never truly dies. Even if it gets scratched to hell it is possible to bring it back to life with a little wood putty, some acrylic paint, tung oil and a fair bit of elbow grease.

[javeryh]

Looking niiiiiice. Glad you went with the clips/clamps, CP should be rock-solid now.

BTW love the wood veneer, really screams retro and never truly dies. Even if it gets scratched to hell it is possible to bring it back to life with a little wood putty, some acrylic paint, tung oil and a fair bit of elbow grease.

Thanks for the kind words.  The wood paneling is my favorite part about this project but if it gets damaged it won't be tat easy to fix since it is actually a vinyl sticker... but it should be able to hold up over time.  My kids are older and the basement area where my cabinets are is tiny and not a place where people fool around.

Today I managed to install the volume knob.  This was relatively easy once I decided where to put it and also realized there were mounting holes in the PCB... I actually cut a block of wood and started carving it to match the surface of the board so everything would sit flush until I had an "aha" moment.  I wasted 2 hours on it... I can't get out of my own way LOL.

Nothing to this other than screwing it in place where it is easily reachable and then managing some cables.





Next is putting the monitor back inside and installing the computer and connecting the controls.  Won't be long now...

[bperkins01]

Looks great    
You may have mentioned it - do you have a link to the material you used for the wood grain sides?
I'm restoring a Ms. Pacman cabaret and it looks pretty close ..  hmmm...

[Zebidee]

Today I managed to install the volume knob.  This was relatively easy once I decided where to put it and also realized there were mounting holes in the PCB... I actually cut a block of wood and started carving it to match the surface of the board so everything would sit flush until I had an "aha" moment.  I wasted 2 hours on it... I can't get out of my own way LOL.

Plywood offcuts are actually really great for this, and I've become pretty good at it. You can carefully carve/drill out a single layer ("ply") and then use that to slide your PCB in for a neat finish. I've used this for panel-mounting volume controls (i.e. external access) to arcade cabs, even USB and audio ports (the carved plywood holds PCB/pot firmly behind the panel).

I could post photos but don't want to muddy your thread with my crap.

[Zebidee]

Looks great    
You may have mentioned it - do you have a link to the material you used for the wood grain sides?
I'm restoring a Ms. Pacman cabaret and it looks pretty close ..  hmmm...

Restoring? If you have original woodgrain veneer remaining, even it it is scratched to hell, it could probably be restored to former glory.

Cab #4 from left in my sig was a piece of steaming meadowmuffin when I got it free, could barely see there was woodgrain under the scratches. By time I was done it looked like new furniture.

[bperkins01]

Mine is vinyl...



Its a mess..  Its not laminate..

The stuff on javeryh's cab looks pretty close..

[Zebidee]

Mine is vinyl...

Its a mess..  Its not laminate..

You're right it looks pretty bad, but are you sure that's vinyl? I'd have to see it for reals to be sure. What is that yellowish area near the screw (which I assume is there to hold in the layer)? Is that substrate for the top layer of a laminate?

Not trying to argue bperkins, your pic is good but not enough, and I don't have enough experience with original Ms Pacman cabs. I know that vinyl woodgrain was in use in the early 80's because we had a System 80 computer (TRS 80 clone) that had vinyl woodgrain on the sides. Yeah, woodgrain on a computer how high-tech is that! Anyway, I dunno, what is left of the woodgrain look on that Ms Pacman looks better than ordinary vinyl.

[bperkins01]

Yea - its vinyl  - or its the worlds thinnest laminate..  When I was removing it with the heat gun.. it melts..  heat gun sucked..  would have taken days to remove.  I ended up sanding it off.
I appreciate you caring 

[Zebidee]

Urgh hoped/thought they'd have used something better for Ms Pacman ah well

[javeryh]

Looks great    
You may have mentioned it - do you have a link to the material you used for the wood grain sides?
I'm restoring a Ms. Pacman cabaret and it looks pretty close ..  hmmm...

Thanks.

I bought THIS stuff from Amazon.  I'm in the US but ordered from Amazon UK because Amazon US did not sell a similar product that was wide enough.  I don't know why but I searched for days and days and all of the rolls being sold in the US were a couple inches too short.  It arrived pretty quick (less than a week) and one roll was plenty for one side (so I ordered 2 rolls).  It went on SUPER easy.  I was nervous but shouldn't have been.  It seems like it is going to be durable over time and the adhesive on the back seems to be good too.  I would definitely order it again.

Also, the lighting in my pic makes it appear lighter than it is in person.  I think it would be a good approximation of your Ms. Pac-Man cabaret but you'd have to cover the entre thing because it's not an exact match.  Can't wait to see you bring that back to life!

[bperkins01]

Thanks for the info - I have a few options I'm sorting through - but that one looks pretty good.
I'm stripping the sides down to bare particle board.  It needs repair and is expanded around the edges.  So it will be *new*
thanks!
Keep up the good work

[javeryh]

Thanks for the info - I have a few options I'm sorting through - but that one looks pretty good.
I'm stripping the sides down to bare particle board.  It needs repair and is expanded around the edges.  So it will be *new*
thanks!
Keep up the good work

I would be concerned about any vinyl sticking to particle board unless you seal it first.  Mine is made out of MDF and I was even nervous about that so I painted it with 2 coats of Kilz to seal it and I sanded it down to 220 before applying the vinyl.

[bperkins01]

Thanks for the info - I have a few options I'm sorting through - but that one looks pretty good.
I'm stripping the sides down to bare particle board.  It needs repair and is expanded around the edges.  So it will be *new*
thanks!
Keep up the good work

I would be concerned about any vinyl sticking to particle board unless you seal it first.  Mine is made out of MDF and I was even nervous about that so I painted it with 2 coats of Kilz to seal it and I sanded it down to 220 before applying the vinyl.

Good call.  I'll be sealing the existing stuff to stabilize it..  The inside is going to get some fresh black paint.. I can easily spray the sides too..
thx

[javeryh]

Alright... after about a day of configuring all of the games (spinner sensitivity) and making sure they work and also finally implementing the pause/hole to exit feature (thanks Arroyo!), there are only a few things left to do on the software side. 

1. Configure ServoStik so that it automatically switches depending on the selected game
2. Hide Windows 10 (and boot straight to Hyperspin.exe)

I think that's it unless I'm forgetting something obvious.  One thing I couldn't figure out was how to launch games from Hyperspin by pressing "any button" instead of just P1 Start.  It's fine because that's what the instructions on the CP say and it was how I intended it to work but someone else suggested launching by pressing "any button" (buttons 1, 2 and 3) and it seemed like a good idea.  In HyperHQ you can only change the field for Launch Game to one button (unlike in MAME where you can make multiple buttons do the same thing).

I'm also placing the order for the monitor glass today - a 17-15/16" x 13-1/4" piece is going to run me $50!  Tempered, 3/16" thick, gray tint, beveled and polished edges really run up the price.

So... is there a guide or something for the ServoStik configuration to get it to work with Hyperspin?  I haven't plugged in the USB cable from the servo board to my PC yet but I image it's more than just plug and play.  Any guidance here would be great otherwise I'm going down the google/trial and error rabbit hole.

[Zebidee]

I'm also placing the order for the monitor glass today - a 17-15/16" x 13-1/4" piece is going to run me $50!  Tempered, 3/16" thick, gray tint, beveled and polished edges really run up the price.

My strong recommendation: do not get gray tint, just clear glass is best. Gray tint will just make your screen darker and colours less vibrant.

Other than that strong recommendation, these suggestions: you probably don't need tempered glass, not worth the cost, and I'd choose a bit thicker (6mm, 1/4") if it will fit.

[Arroyo]

First off.  Wow.  The whole thing pops and looks fantastic.  What I appreciate most is sticking to a traditional form.  We have a lot of wide screen cabs these days (totally guilty myself), and it’s refreshing to see classic lines.

Regarding launching a game with any button.  The recommendation would be the same as with the pause/exit.  When launching a game, look to Rocketlauncher, specify each of the buttons you’d like to work (as far as I know there isn’t a limit).  I don’t have screen shots but if you are having trouble I can provide.  Nice work!

[javeryh]

My strong recommendation: do not get gray tint, just clear glass is best. Gray tint will just make your screen darker and colours less vibrant.

Other than that strong recommendation, these suggestions: you probably don't need tempered glass, not worth the cost, and I'd choose a bit thicker (6mm, 1/4") if it will fit.

Really?  I've always used gray tint and it always looks better to me at least.  Even my DK with the "original" bezel/plexi in front wasn't clear... I think.  I was wavering on the tempered glass but I think it's probably a good idea in the long run just in case.  1/4" is a good idea so I'll price it out.  I probably don't need the beveled edges either but I honestly don't care about the $50 cost (although paying less would be good) so might as well get it exactly how I want.

First off.  Wow.  The whole thing pops and looks fantastic.  What I appreciate most is sticking to a traditional form.  We have a lot of wide screen cabs these days (totally guilty myself), and it’s refreshing to see classic lines.

Regarding launching a game with any button.  The recommendation would be the same as with the pause/exit.  When launching a game, look to Rocketlauncher, specify each of the buttons you’d like to work (as far as I know there isn’t a limit).  I don’t have screen shots but if you are having trouble I can provide.  Nice work!

Thanks buddy!  A classic look is what drew me to this design so it's good to hear that it actually does look that way.

As for the Rocketlauncher settings - that makes sense.  I was making changes in HyperHQ (changing "enter" to "1") so I was in the wrong place.  I'll take a look and see if I can find the "launch game" setting in Rocketlauncher. 

I'm starting to wonder if I should have been taking notes and making a guide for myself in case I forget all of these settings.  I actually thought about making some sort of print out with directions on it that gets stapled to the inside of the back door in case someone else ever becomes the owner of this thing (if so I'm probably dead LOL).  Having to unscrew the CP battons to remove the monitor is something that should probably be spelled out somewhere...

[javeryh]

Wow setting up the ServoStik with Hyperspin could not have been easier. 

In RocketLauncher under Global -> Settings -> Mapping there is a Ultimarc box and a ServoStik Mode with a drop-down menu for auto, 4-way, 8-way and false.  All I did was change this one setting from false to auto and it seems to be working.  I've tested a bunch of different 8-way and 4-way games and the joystick is switching properly.  Literally couldn't have been easier which is why there's no guide out there.    Took me 2 hours to figure it out but still...

Next up is hiding Windows 10 and getting everything inside of the cabinet.   I hate this part because getting back to windows to mess with stuff is usually a pain after you turn everything off.  Once I do that I just have to put everything in the cabinet, hook up the coin door and that's it.   

[Zebidee]

My strong recommendation: do not get gray tint, just clear glass is best. Gray tint will just make your screen darker and colours less vibrant.

Really?  I've always used gray tint and it always looks better to me at least.

Up to you and your taste and your money I reckon. But my advice is still to avoid it for arcade cabs.

You want a monitor "well" and dark/black bezel to minimise any external reflected light and normally to make the screen as bright as possible in comparison. I know that gray tinted glass may seem to make the monitor well more of a "well", might even make it look better in pictures, but you don't need it and it only detracts from your screen brightness. you monitor is designed to be viewed without gray glass in front.

Having said that, our human brains and eyes adjust perception to the duller colours and you might not even notice what you are missing.

You might want tinted glass for say an outdoor window, to cut intensity of bright sunlight. I've never seen tinted glass in professional arcade cabs. If you find the screen is too bright, turn down the brightness. Not saying gray tint didn't ever get used, just not that often and not that I ever saw.

[Zebidee]

Regarding launching a game with any button.  The recommendation would be the same as with the pause/exit.  When launching a game, look to Rocketlauncher, specify each of the buttons you’d like to work (as far as I know there isn’t a limit).  I don’t have screen shots but if you are having trouble I can provide.  Nice work!

After reading this I started looking at Rocketlauncher trying to get my head around how it works. Looks very exciting! Just in the middle of trying to setup new frontend to launch my games etc for Windows 7 setup. I found the forum but guessing I'll need to watch some YT videos etc. Got any good links for new users?

[javeryh]

Regarding launching a game with any button.  The recommendation would be the same as with the pause/exit.  When launching a game, look to Rocketlauncher, specify each of the buttons you’d like to work (as far as I know there isn’t a limit).  I don’t have screen shots but if you are having trouble I can provide.  Nice work!

After reading this I started looking at Rocketlauncher trying to get my head around how it works. Looks very exciting! Just in the middle of trying to setup new frontend to launch my games etc for Windows 7 setup. I found the forum but guessing I'll need to watch some YT videos etc. Got any good links for new users?

Hmm... I watched a ton of stuff but the videos by Planet Geekdom were the ones I followed.  Then for setting up the dynamic marquee I watched a tutorial by MAMEFAN.  It took me a long time to figure it all out (started with zero knowledge).

So, I couldn't resist taking a quick video of the ServoStik actually working.  I'm quite pleased with myself for getting this to work even though all it amounts to is plugging in a USB cable.   



Punch list is down to:

1.  Hide Windows 10
2.  Put all the junk in the cabinet
3.  Wire coin door and coin return buttons (this is separate because there is no coin button on the CP)
4.  Install glass over monitor
5.  Build and install coin box

Other stuff I'd like to do:

1.  Add a metal ID manufacturing plate to the back or top
2.  Use the pause button to display controls on per game basis (this is potentially a huge project)
3.  Swap out the yellow coin return buttons for red ones (not sure if this is doable)
4.  Get very small wireless keyboard/mouse and store just inside coin door for admin stuff

Not much left to do now, unfortunately.  I'm really having fun with this project.

[javeryh]

Hiding Windows 10 and booting straight into HyperSpin is such a pain.  I have the Home version - fully licensed.  All of the YouTube videos I've seen that claim to work are on the Windows 10 Pro or Enterprise versions, which I do not have.  There is a way to "upgrade" for free, but I am worried about a watermark appearing on the desktop on top of everything that will not go away until I purchase the correct license.  If I try following these tutorials, they are editing folders/files in Windows that I do not have in my version.

So far, here's what it looks like if I just put a shortcut to HyperSpin.exe into ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows\Start Menu\Programs\Startup:



As you can see it sucks:

1.  HP splash logo visible for split second
2.  The D-SUB connection icon in upper left is visible (maybe this will change when I connect to the actual monitors I'm using in the cab?)
3.  Welcome wheel is spinning with user account info visible
4.  Taskbar on bottom of screen

Then HyperSpin loads.  I don't care that it takes 45 seconds but this is ugly as hell.

EDIT: I'm going to upgrade to Windows 10 Enterprise and see what happens.  Worst case scenario is I have to reinstall Windows 10 Home.  All of my HyperSpin/Rocketlauncher/MAME stuff is on an external USB so those settings should be safe.

EDIT: 2: OK, Upgrade to Enterprise is complete (no license) and it works for the most part.  #1 and #2 above are still visible but #3 and #4 are gone completely.  I can probably live with this since I'm reasonably sure there's no way to get rid of #1 since it is hard coded into the motherboard settings.  The weird thing is that when I first start Hyperspin and try to select a game to play there is a HUGE lag.  I can scroll through other games after pressing "start" (which changes the marque) and then the originally selected game will launch.  Not sure if this is because I'm running things off of the external drive or what.  Once I exit out and select something else the lag is reduced but not all the way. 

I'm inclined to copy everything from the USB drive to the internal hard drive to see if that helps but I do not remember at all what I had to point to when setting up HyperSpin/Rocketlauncher/MAME.  I would keep the file structure the same but all references to E:\ would have to change to C:\ and I'm not sure I want to get into that.

EDIT 3:  eff it I'm going for it.  Installing everything to the C:\ is a pain but I think I'll be happy I did it in the long run.

EDIT 4: I did it.  Everything seems to be working smoother as a result.  Hypermarquee was the hardest part - had to change a ton of settings there but right now everything is behaving as planned.  But now as a result of upgrading to Windows Enterprise I have a watermark in the lower right corner that sits on top of Hyperspin.  UGH. Never mind - once I shelled it again, explorer.exe never launches so the watermark never pops up.  Whew.  I think I'm going to call it for today but tomorrow I will be putting everything in the cabinet and playing some games dammit.

[yamatetsu]

1.  HP splash logo visible for split second
2.  The D-SUB connection icon in upper left is visible (maybe this will change when I connect to the actual monitors I'm using in the cab?)

1. That is a BIOS setting. Most motherboards have the option to turn it off. Try googling "bios turn hp logo off".

2. That is your monitor telling you which port it gets a signal from. I don't think that this can be turned off.

I don't know if this is feasible, a simple solution to #1 would be to have something that powers the computer on, waits a few secs and then turns on the monitor.

[javeryh]

1.  HP splash logo visible for split second
2.  The D-SUB connection icon in upper left is visible (maybe this will change when I connect to the actual monitors I'm using in the cab?)

1. That is a BIOS setting. Most motherboards have the option to turn it off. Try googling "bios turn hp logo off".

2. That is your monitor telling you which port it gets a signal from. I don't think that this can be turned off.

I don't know if this is feasible, a simple solution to #1 would be to have something that powers the computer on, waits a few secs and then turns on the monitor.

Thanks.  I think I fixed #1.  You can go into msconfig, click the "Boot" tab and click "No boot GUI" and restart.  Seems to have worked.  I kept rebooting, hitting F10 to get into the BIOS and went though every setting and couldn't fix it.  One Google search later after your suggestion and it's done.  LOL. 

As for #2, I'm going to be using 2 completely different monitors in the cabinet itself so once I get everything inside this should resolve itself.  I'll be doing that as soon as I get some work done...

[Jimbo]

Looking good mate - I can't wait for the video showcasing the entire cab when it's done!   

[javeryh]

Looking good mate - I can't wait for the video showcasing the entire cab when it's done!   

Thanks!  At this rate I'm never going to finish.  I have spent the better part of today messing with the computer... I had everything ready to go - added a long wire to the motherboard pins for power button on outside of cab, unhooked everything, etc. and when I went to put the computer into the cabinet... it didn't fit.  THe case is just too bulky (by like an inch).  There is so much empty space inside and also a CD drive that I don't need...

 

So... I started taking it apart completely.  I now have the motherboard, power supply and hard drive outside of the case and can probably mount it to the bottom panel of the cabinet using some PCB feet.  But in taking it apart, the cooler for the processor popped off because the 4 screws were connected directly to the case.  And of course the mechanical tab thing that keeps the processor in place is not locking (this HAD to have ben broken the whole time because I didn't do anything to it).

Anyway, can I use the motherboard outside of the case with no cooler on the processor?  Is this a fire hazard or something?  Without the case, there is no way to attach the cooler and also route air from a fan - there was a fan attached to the inside of the case and then a curved piece of plastic that directed the airflow through the cooler over the processor.  I'm afraid without this it will overheat but there's a good chance I have no idea what I'm talking about.



What would you guys do?

[vertexguy]

You may be able to come up with an alternate way to get airflow across the processor.  You definitely want the heat sync on your processor no matter what.  In the past when I've tried stuff like this for general PC use it will overheat quite fast without it.  From the looks of it you may be able to pull those screw things off the heat sync and just put a bolt through the motherboard with a nut on the back side?  As long as that is seated properly and tight enough against the processor you should get the right heat dispersion.

For airflow ideas consider just a standard plastic rectangular computer fan that runs off the PSU.  One or two of those blowing directly on the processor I would imagine should create the same airflow those plastic channels provide.  One consideration there is where the air is coming from.  The channels are designed to push fresher and presumably cooler air from the outside into the case and directly onto the cpu.  So if you can route it close to a vent, that could be fine.  I've had processors running with extra case fans on them in the past and that seemed to work fine for overheating.  Some of the bios settings provide a temp readout on certain motherboards.  That can be your indicator of how it's performing.  Take measure at cold startup, and then just run some cpu intensive games for an hour and check where it's at again.  In my experience with overheating computers in the past, if they were going to overheat, you could get it to happen fairly quickly with a cpu intensive game (talking non mame in my experience here, but should be similar).  You can probably google safe operating temp ranges on that particular processor to let you know how you're fairing too.

[bperkins01]

Put a couple of nuts on the cooling fins and bolt it back on the the processor. Bolt it from the underside just like it was the case.  It will fry without that fin attachment. 
You should use thermal paste to get that stack back together if possible

Then get a small fan that pushes air through the fins to remove the heat.  you don't need a hurricane..  just air movement
Look at the fan setup in your pc case and see how the air flows.. 
By the looks of it that's the only part that needs cooling..

Something like this to remove the heat is all you should really need...

https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-iUniker-30x30x7mm-Brushless-RetroFlag/dp/B076H3TKBP/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=cpu+cooling+fan&qid=1611268387&refinements=p_36%3A1253503011&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sr=1-12-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWEM3U1pVTVZWNklJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjA2Nzc2MkE2SThMWVUyODEzSCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzU0NjM4Mjg2QVRENURTNkkwVSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

HTH

[Zebidee]

Just some ideas here...

- If you can mount the motherboard sideways/side of cabinet it will collect less dust over time than it will sitting flat on the bottom. However, I'm not sure if your video card and cooler will be happy like that.
- If you're going to lie the motherboard flat then you might want to craft a cover to go on top.
- You might consider screwing motherboard to some scrap wood first, before installing into the cab.
- Can you make a rolling shelf or drawer to fit the motherboard onto? That way you can just slide it in/out when servicing.
- Use one or two case fans in your cab to exhaust hot air and draw fresh air in. Hot air rises, so have a fan higher up to get hot air out. Fresh air needs to come in as well, so make sure there is a vent somewhere near bottom of cab. This will improve airflow and efficiency of the exhaust fan. The intake vent doesn't necessarily need a fan.
- If pests/vermin are common in your area, consider mosquito mesh to cover your vent/fan holes. This is a must if you live in a tropical area (like me).

[javeryh]

Thanks guys. 

I've never had airflow problems in my cabinets so there are no vents and I usually leave the PC in the case so my thinking is if I leave it out of the case it will be even better.  I'll make sure to have a fan positioned so it is blowing across the cooler.  The main issue is attaching the cooler to the motherboard - I guess I need to go to Home Depot tomorrow to find some nuts for those screws and hope I can find some that fit.  Assuming I can do that, I'll mount the motherboard, power supply and fan on a separate piece of 1/2" MDF or plywood so it can sit on the floor of the cabinet.  I'm not sure it will work on the inside wall because of the monitor taking up so much space.  I just hope it still works when I put it all back together.  This is what I get for trying to repurpose a trash computer...

[Zebidee]

Thanks guys. 

I've never had airflow problems in my cabinets so there are no vents and I usually leave the PC in the case so my thinking is if I leave it out of the case it will be even better.  I'll make sure to have a fan positioned so it is blowing across the cooler.  The main issue is attaching the cooler to the motherboard - I guess I need to go to Home Depot tomorrow to find some nuts for those screws and hope I can find some that fit.  Assuming I can do that, I'll mount the motherboard, power supply and fan on a separate piece of 1/2" MDF or plywood so it can sit on the floor of the cabinet.  I'm not sure it will work on the inside wall because of the monitor taking up so much space.  I just hope it still works when I put it all back together.  This is what I get for trying to repurpose a trash computer...

I used to not worry about vents or fans much when I was in a mostly temperate and dry climate, no sea nearby (salt). However in a tropical climate it becomes very important.

If you get a chance to go to local hardware store, ask/look at some drawer runners. Get local guy at shop to explain how to install, is easy. Take measurements & pics of what you'll need before you go to the store.

Then you can have that slide-out drawer for your motherboard/PSU/Fan to mount into.

I had this before on a custom cab I did for a mate long time ago - 3rd from left in my sig pic. PC had no traditional case, much like yours, and was just screwed onto the wood. I will try to dig up some photos.

[javeryh]

Well after a trip to Home Depot for some #6 nuts and some time in the garage cutting a panel and some supports, I’ve got the computer mounted to a 1/2” piece of MDF.



It’s a smaller footprint than the case by a considerable amount.  The motherboard is screwed down but the fan and the PSU are being held in place by some double sided tape and some strategic blocking (the blocks are glued to the MDF).  It it relatively secure but if you guys have better ideas I’m all ears.

I’m about to finally put the computer in the cabinet but I’m a little concerned about the computer booting up because I removed the disc drive, the front USB panel, the internal speaker and the cable that ran from the motherboard to the rear panel for the printer.  Will I have boot issues?  Is the computer going to give me a bunch of errors because it is expecting those devices to be plugged in?  I guess I’ll find out...