javeryh's Woodgrain Cabaret Copy

[jennifer]

One final thought...The longer the steel is the more displacement of stress you gain, so more the better, but using 2" is probibally going require cutting/grinding one leg down for height in the space you have there...I dont think big box has what I am talking about, but your local steel shop will usually cut and sell it to size...Or online metals.com will even ship it to your door 😉.

[Zebidee]

I suggest toggle clamps mounted under the panel. You'll probably need to get your hand up through some wires, but at least there shouldn't be anything nastier than 5v there.

This is an example of what I mean by toggle clamps. Lever gets mounted to side of cabinet, hook onto CP. You push lever down to secure, pull it up to release. I have another version on my old cabs but can't find a link to them new anywhere, might be too old or whatever.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33038641642.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.23313af5lQ1LrG&algo_pvid=2fcd4ee8-ed99-4c40-9436-238d2364b963&algo_expid=2fcd4ee8-ed99-4c40-9436-238d2364b963-22&btsid=0bb0620316100598159594460e09f8&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

[yamatetsu]

Velcro? You might need to staple it to the wood though just to stop it peeling off.

Seconded. I bought a strip of velcro in a DIY store and used it on my Pinup CP. That thing doesn't move a bit, it is even a bit difficult to get it off the battens. If the velcro peels off, just replace it.

Another option would be using dowels. Sand the upper halves of the dowels a bit so that the CP can't move but you can still pull it off easily.

[javeryh]

Thanks for the suggestions.  You guys have given me a lot to think about...

Velcro was something floating around in my head and the reason I didn't think it would work is not because of strength but because of getting the CP to sit exactly where I want it to sit and also level since velcro can be (slightly) compressed.  It is important that the front lip of the CP sit as close as possible to the front face of the cabinet so the roundover looks clean (it won't look 100% clean due to the difference between laminate front and polycarbonite CPO being slightly different shades of black).  If I used velcro, I'd have to lower the CP support battons by the thickness of the velcro.  Probably not a huge deal, right?  I wish there was a way to test this before committing.

Dowels are another really cool idea that never crossed my mind... I'm not sure I have the skills to make it all line up though.  I'd have to be PERFECT with the holes both underneath the CP (with only 1/2" to grab into) and also the battons.  This would prevent sliding but maybe not pulling up (although pulling up on the CP during play is not really a concern).

The toggle clamps are exactly my original idea and what I was planning all along.  These are the ones I have on hand:



Getting everything lined up will be tricky, but not impossible (I think).  The main issue is getting the clips in exactly the right place on the inside of the cabinet.  I am reasonably sure the pressure of the clamps pulling down will be enough so stop the CP from sliding forwards or backwards (and actually forwards will be impossible once the glass is installed over the monitor).  Angle brackets seem like a variation on the toggle clamps so we are on the same page there.

Still not sure.  Probably a toss up between the toggle clamps and the velcro.  I'll start with the toggle clamps and if I can't get it just right I will try the velcro.   

I think today is the day... it was going to be yesterday but instead I watched 9 hours of football like an idiot especially when I had no rooting interest whatsoever...   

[yamatetsu]

Velcro was something floating around in my head and the reason I didn't think it would work is not because of strength but because of getting the CP to sit exactly where I want it to sit and also level since velcro can be (slightly) compressed.  It is important that the front lip of the CP sit as close as possible to the front face of the cabinet so the roundover looks clean (it won't look 100% clean due to the difference between laminate front and polycarbonite CPO being slightly different shades of black).  If I used velcro, I'd have to lower the CP support battons by the thickness of the velcro.  Probably not a huge deal, right?  I wish there was a way to test this before committing.

Testing is easy. Take a piece of scrap wood, screw some battons on it, apply velcro, apply velcro to the CP, connect. Clamp the whole thing down, try to move the CP. You won't be able to.

As for aligning the CP and the front: Screw/glue some stop blocks under the CP (front, left and right) so that the CP will be inserted in the perfect position and cannot be moved.

[javeryh]

Velcro was something floating around in my head and the reason I didn't think it would work is not because of strength but because of getting the CP to sit exactly where I want it to sit and also level since velcro can be (slightly) compressed.  It is important that the front lip of the CP sit as close as possible to the front face of the cabinet so the roundover looks clean (it won't look 100% clean due to the difference between laminate front and polycarbonite CPO being slightly different shades of black).  If I used velcro, I'd have to lower the CP support battons by the thickness of the velcro.  Probably not a huge deal, right?  I wish there was a way to test this before committing.

Testing is easy. Take a piece of scrap wood, screw some battons on it, apply velcro, apply velcro to the CP, connect. Clamp the whole thing down, try to move the CP. You won't be able to.

As for aligning the CP and the front: Screw/glue some stop blocks under the CP (front, left and right) so that the CP will be inserted in the perfect position and cannot be moved.

Damn.  I wish you could have just come over and done this for me.  I'm an idiot.  I just spent like 3 hours getting everything PERFECT and now I just realized that the side battons lock the monitor in the cabinet... so I can't take it out to install the bottom 1/2 of the toggle clamps without unscrewing everything.  Good thing I didn't glue the battons in place.

Your idea about the stop blocks is genius.  I think 2 small pieces towards the front will lock everything in place.

[javeryh]

OK the stop blocks are an absolute necessity.  The clips work (mostly - I need to find tune since one side is a little loose) but I can still easily pull the CP forward with normal play on the joystick.  The blocks should prevent that movement - I’ll install them tomorrow.  Took me 4+ hours to basically install the battons and clips because I’m slow... in more ways than one apparently.

[javeryh]

Control Panel is secure.  This part was fun.  I decided on using the clips I had laying around. 

First thing I did was finally attach the battons to the cabinet but I had to be careful where I put the screws - I didn't want to them to get in the way of the clip hardware.  I also wanted about 1/2" overhang (or is it underhang?) so that the glass that will eventually cover the monitor has something to rest on.  So the battons support both the CP and the monitor glass.





Next, after some careful measuring, I installed the clips.  You can see in this shot that I had to add a small piece of scrapwood under the bracket because the batton holding the monitor was not long enough.  The screw sticking up to the left of the clip is a stop for the monitor.  It is held in place by gravity only but because of the angle I needed something to stop it from sliding all the way down and out of place.  The screw does the trick.





And here is a shot from underneath with the control panel in place.  There will be two USB cables coming off of the panel for the iPAC2 and the servostik motor which I'll install once I'm ready to put the computer inside.  There won't be a lot of room to work with once the monitor is back in pace but I did check and I can reach the clips if I stick my arm up through the coin door.



And here's where I'm at.  I'd say it's looking good!



Another minor thing I did was finish the joystick dustwasher.  I had an extra 38mm clear dustwasher that I ordered from Focus Attack a while ago (it's really just a piece of plastic) that I spray painted black on one side.  When you flip it over so the painted side is face down, it looks perfect. 

Next up is figuring out where to put the volume knob for the speakers I ripped apart.  It's just a loose PCB with the knob attached so I'll probably try mounting it just inside the coin door somehow.   

[Zebidee]

Looking niiiiiice. Glad you went with the clips/clamps, CP should be rock-solid now.

BTW love the wood veneer, really screams retro and never truly dies. Even if it gets scratched to hell it is possible to bring it back to life with a little wood putty, some acrylic paint, tung oil and a fair bit of elbow grease.

[javeryh]

Looking niiiiiice. Glad you went with the clips/clamps, CP should be rock-solid now.

BTW love the wood veneer, really screams retro and never truly dies. Even if it gets scratched to hell it is possible to bring it back to life with a little wood putty, some acrylic paint, tung oil and a fair bit of elbow grease.

Thanks for the kind words.  The wood paneling is my favorite part about this project but if it gets damaged it won't be tat easy to fix since it is actually a vinyl sticker... but it should be able to hold up over time.  My kids are older and the basement area where my cabinets are is tiny and not a place where people fool around.

Today I managed to install the volume knob.  This was relatively easy once I decided where to put it and also realized there were mounting holes in the PCB... I actually cut a block of wood and started carving it to match the surface of the board so everything would sit flush until I had an "aha" moment.  I wasted 2 hours on it... I can't get out of my own way LOL.

Nothing to this other than screwing it in place where it is easily reachable and then managing some cables.





Next is putting the monitor back inside and installing the computer and connecting the controls.  Won't be long now...

[bperkins01]

Looks great    
You may have mentioned it - do you have a link to the material you used for the wood grain sides?
I'm restoring a Ms. Pacman cabaret and it looks pretty close ..  hmmm...

[Zebidee]

Today I managed to install the volume knob.  This was relatively easy once I decided where to put it and also realized there were mounting holes in the PCB... I actually cut a block of wood and started carving it to match the surface of the board so everything would sit flush until I had an "aha" moment.  I wasted 2 hours on it... I can't get out of my own way LOL.

Plywood offcuts are actually really great for this, and I've become pretty good at it. You can carefully carve/drill out a single layer ("ply") and then use that to slide your PCB in for a neat finish. I've used this for panel-mounting volume controls (i.e. external access) to arcade cabs, even USB and audio ports (the carved plywood holds PCB/pot firmly behind the panel).

I could post photos but don't want to muddy your thread with my crap.

[Zebidee]

Looks great    
You may have mentioned it - do you have a link to the material you used for the wood grain sides?
I'm restoring a Ms. Pacman cabaret and it looks pretty close ..  hmmm...

Restoring? If you have original woodgrain veneer remaining, even it it is scratched to hell, it could probably be restored to former glory.

Cab #4 from left in my sig was a piece of steaming meadowmuffin when I got it free, could barely see there was woodgrain under the scratches. By time I was done it looked like new furniture.

[bperkins01]

Mine is vinyl...



Its a mess..  Its not laminate..

The stuff on javeryh's cab looks pretty close..

[Zebidee]

Mine is vinyl...

Its a mess..  Its not laminate..

You're right it looks pretty bad, but are you sure that's vinyl? I'd have to see it for reals to be sure. What is that yellowish area near the screw (which I assume is there to hold in the layer)? Is that substrate for the top layer of a laminate?

Not trying to argue bperkins, your pic is good but not enough, and I don't have enough experience with original Ms Pacman cabs. I know that vinyl woodgrain was in use in the early 80's because we had a System 80 computer (TRS 80 clone) that had vinyl woodgrain on the sides. Yeah, woodgrain on a computer how high-tech is that! Anyway, I dunno, what is left of the woodgrain look on that Ms Pacman looks better than ordinary vinyl.

[bperkins01]

Yea - its vinyl  - or its the worlds thinnest laminate..  When I was removing it with the heat gun.. it melts..  heat gun sucked..  would have taken days to remove.  I ended up sanding it off.
I appreciate you caring 

[Zebidee]

Urgh hoped/thought they'd have used something better for Ms Pacman ah well

[javeryh]

Looks great    
You may have mentioned it - do you have a link to the material you used for the wood grain sides?
I'm restoring a Ms. Pacman cabaret and it looks pretty close ..  hmmm...

Thanks.

I bought THIS stuff from Amazon.  I'm in the US but ordered from Amazon UK because Amazon US did not sell a similar product that was wide enough.  I don't know why but I searched for days and days and all of the rolls being sold in the US were a couple inches too short.  It arrived pretty quick (less than a week) and one roll was plenty for one side (so I ordered 2 rolls).  It went on SUPER easy.  I was nervous but shouldn't have been.  It seems like it is going to be durable over time and the adhesive on the back seems to be good too.  I would definitely order it again.

Also, the lighting in my pic makes it appear lighter than it is in person.  I think it would be a good approximation of your Ms. Pac-Man cabaret but you'd have to cover the entre thing because it's not an exact match.  Can't wait to see you bring that back to life!

[bperkins01]

Thanks for the info - I have a few options I'm sorting through - but that one looks pretty good.
I'm stripping the sides down to bare particle board.  It needs repair and is expanded around the edges.  So it will be *new*
thanks!
Keep up the good work

[javeryh]

Thanks for the info - I have a few options I'm sorting through - but that one looks pretty good.
I'm stripping the sides down to bare particle board.  It needs repair and is expanded around the edges.  So it will be *new*
thanks!
Keep up the good work

I would be concerned about any vinyl sticking to particle board unless you seal it first.  Mine is made out of MDF and I was even nervous about that so I painted it with 2 coats of Kilz to seal it and I sanded it down to 220 before applying the vinyl.

[bperkins01]

Thanks for the info - I have a few options I'm sorting through - but that one looks pretty good.
I'm stripping the sides down to bare particle board.  It needs repair and is expanded around the edges.  So it will be *new*
thanks!
Keep up the good work

I would be concerned about any vinyl sticking to particle board unless you seal it first.  Mine is made out of MDF and I was even nervous about that so I painted it with 2 coats of Kilz to seal it and I sanded it down to 220 before applying the vinyl.

Good call.  I'll be sealing the existing stuff to stabilize it..  The inside is going to get some fresh black paint.. I can easily spray the sides too..
thx

[javeryh]

Alright... after about a day of configuring all of the games (spinner sensitivity) and making sure they work and also finally implementing the pause/hole to exit feature (thanks Arroyo!), there are only a few things left to do on the software side. 

1. Configure ServoStik so that it automatically switches depending on the selected game
2. Hide Windows 10 (and boot straight to Hyperspin.exe)

I think that's it unless I'm forgetting something obvious.  One thing I couldn't figure out was how to launch games from Hyperspin by pressing "any button" instead of just P1 Start.  It's fine because that's what the instructions on the CP say and it was how I intended it to work but someone else suggested launching by pressing "any button" (buttons 1, 2 and 3) and it seemed like a good idea.  In HyperHQ you can only change the field for Launch Game to one button (unlike in MAME where you can make multiple buttons do the same thing).

I'm also placing the order for the monitor glass today - a 17-15/16" x 13-1/4" piece is going to run me $50!  Tempered, 3/16" thick, gray tint, beveled and polished edges really run up the price.

So... is there a guide or something for the ServoStik configuration to get it to work with Hyperspin?  I haven't plugged in the USB cable from the servo board to my PC yet but I image it's more than just plug and play.  Any guidance here would be great otherwise I'm going down the google/trial and error rabbit hole.

[Zebidee]

I'm also placing the order for the monitor glass today - a 17-15/16" x 13-1/4" piece is going to run me $50!  Tempered, 3/16" thick, gray tint, beveled and polished edges really run up the price.

My strong recommendation: do not get gray tint, just clear glass is best. Gray tint will just make your screen darker and colours less vibrant.

Other than that strong recommendation, these suggestions: you probably don't need tempered glass, not worth the cost, and I'd choose a bit thicker (6mm, 1/4") if it will fit.