Hi To All Newbie With Zero Delay Encoder Questions

[MarkyB]

Hi to all,

I am new to this forum, and new to building a bartop arcade.

I have bought a 5 volt Zero Delay encoder including 5 volt led buttons and wiring kit.

Separately, I have also purchased 2 coin buttons, and a pair of 1 and 2 player buttons,
to go into the front panel of the bartop, but these come with microswitches, unlike
the Zero Delay led buttons bought from eBay.

I would like to buy crimp connectors to solder onto the wiring kit as the crimps, which has a microswitch,
are larger on the front panel buttons, I understand this can be done, but I would like to know which is the
positive wire from the Zero Delay kit, Yellow or Red? I understand that the 2 black wires are the ground.

Also how does the wiring hook up to the microswitch, I believe the Positive and Negative have to be
separated for the led lamp?

Thankyou for any help

Marc

[PL1]

I have bought a 5 volt Zero Delay encoder including 5 volt led buttons and wiring kit.

Separately, I have also purchased 2 coin buttons, and a pair of 1 and 2 player buttons,
to go into the front panel of the bartop, but these come with microswitches, unlike
the Zero Delay led buttons bought from eBay.

I would like to buy crimp connectors to solder onto the wiring kit as the crimps, which has a microswitch,
are larger on the front panel buttons, I understand this can be done, but I would like to know which is the
positive wire from the Zero Delay kit, Yellow or Red? I understand that the 2 black wires are the ground.

Also how does the wiring hook up to the microswitch, I believe the Positive and Negative have to be
separated for the led lamp?

Related thread: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,154240.msg1617451.html#msg1617451

The "Gnd. (daisy-chain)" notations on the schematic are for an "active low" device where ground is daisy-chained.



The ZD encoder is an "active high" device -- the daisy-chain black wire is 5v, not ground

 


Scott

[MarkyB]

Thankyou Kindly Scott,

That has helped me out alot.

The only confusing issue, is that I don't have a daisy chain with the package that I bought, it
just has ground connections all connecting into the same button if you see what I mean?

The package I bought was from extreme-hardware on eBay with 16 led buttons, I still
understand when wiring a microswitch, (the one's that click down into the bulb bayonet holder)
the positive and negative have to be separated, I just don't know which spade terminal
to connect them too. I guess a photo would help to explain what I mean.

Regards

Marc

[PL1]

The only confusing issue, is that I don't have a daisy chain with the package that I bought, it
just has ground connections all connecting into the same button if you see what I mean?

The package I bought was from extreme-hardware on eBay with 16 led buttons, I still
understand when wiring a microswitch, (the one's that click down into the bulb bayonet holder)
the positive and negative have to be separated, I just don't know which spade terminal
to connect them too. I guess a photo would help to explain what I mean.

The two microswitch connections go to the Normally Open (NO) and Common (COM) tabs.

Ignore the Normally Closed (NC) tab.

The NO and COM aren't polarized, but when you wire the microswitch to the ZD, it is better to connect 5v to NO and the encoder input to COM.

That way there isn't 5v sitting on NC when the button isn't pushed ==> less likely to cause an accidental short.

Here's an exploded view of a typical LED button.



The LED plugs into the socket and connects to the "stirrup" tabs.



I usually orient the LED so the LED negative terminal is on the same side as the big black plastic tab since the color black is usually associated with ground.

PROTIP: Use diode check on your multimeter to verify that the LED is working and oriented the desired way BEFORE you install the button.   


Scott
EDIT: Forgot to mention that most microswitches use 0.187" Quick Disconnects (QDs) and the LED "stirrups" use 0.250" QDs.  The wiring that came with your kit probably has 0.110" QDs.
Your choice on whether to cut/re-crimp or make a 0.110" Male to 0.187"/0.250" Female adapters as needed.

[MarkyB]

Hi Scott, just a query,

The two microswitch connections go to the Normally Open (NO) and Common (COM) tabs.

The NO and COM aren't polarized, but when you wire the microswitch to the ZD, it is better to connect 5v to NO and the encoder input to COM.

That way there isn't 5v sitting on NC when the button isn't pushed ==> less likely to cause an accidental short.

When you say encoder input to COM, you are meaning the Yellow wire as in above photo in the start of the thread, as in the
Ground wire (Yellow) goes to the COM terminal as I am understanding it, that make's sense if that is correct?

Also would you just crimp the terminals, or use solder for better connection?

Regards

Marc

[PL1]

When you say encoder input to COM, you are meaning the Yellow wire as in above photo in the start of the thread, as in the
Ground wire (Yellow) goes to the COM terminal as I am understanding it, that make's sense if that is correct?

Yes, IF the wiring colors are the same as above.

Never trust wiring colors on knockoff products like the ZD -- always verify with your multi-meter and test before installing.

Encoder input (Ground) yellow wire to COM.  Black wire (5v) to NO.  Nothing on NC.

                                      ___ (NC)
Gnd. Yellow (COM) ___/ ___ (NO) Black 5v

Also would you just crimp the terminals, or use solder for better connection?

QD crimps will work fine and they are easier to disconnect for maintenance when things eventually break.

A ratchet crimper tool (even the el-cheapo Harbor Freight version) is your friend.


Scott

[MarkyB]

When you say encoder input to COM, you are meaning the Yellow wire as in above photo in the start of the thread, as in the
Ground wire (Yellow) goes to the COM terminal as I am understanding it, that make's sense if that is correct?

Yes, IF the wiring colors are the same as above.

Never trust wiring colors on knockoff products like the ZD -- always verify with your multi-meter and test before installing.

Encoder input (Ground) yellow wire to COM.  Black wire (5v) to NO.  Nothing on NC.

                                      ___ (NC)
Gnd. Yellow (COM) ___/ ___ (NO) Black 5v

Also would you just crimp the terminals, or use solder for better connection?

QD crimps will work fine and they are easier to disconnect for maintenance when things eventually break.

A ratchet crimper tool (even the el-cheapo Harbor Freight version) is your friend.


Scott

Thankyou for the information Scott,
appreciate your help, I will be careful and check with a multimeter :-)

I have checked the terminals, and on the 1 and 2 player button microswitches, the terminal where
I would crimp the female crimp (LED terminal), these are for 6.3mm female crimp size.

That should be okay as the Zero Delay wiring are 2mm thick, and 6.3mm crimps are good for conductors
between 1.5mm and 2.5mm, so all good.... :-)

Regards

Marc

[MarkyB]

PROTIP: Use diode check on your multimeter to verify that the LED is working and oriented the desired way BEFORE you install the button.   

Hi Scott,

I have a multimeter with a Diode setting, but how do I connect up the positive and negative lead to the arcade button,
what terminals do I attach the multimeter too, to check all is okay?

Newbie to electronics 

Any advice would really help 

Many Thanks

Regards

Marc 

[PL1]

You can understand most of basic electronics by relating it to plumbing.

    Voltage = water pressure

    Amperage = gallons of water

    Diode = spring-loaded one-way valve

In order for the one-way valve (diode) to allow even a trickle of water (amperage) to flow, there are two conditions that must be met:

1. The water pressure (voltage) must be pushing in the right direction.

If it's pushing the wrong way, the valve will not allow water to flow. ("reverse bias" on the diode)

2. There has to be enough water pressure (voltage) to overcome the spring and open the valve, allowing water to flow. ("forward bias" on the diode)

I have a multimeter with a Diode setting, but how do I connect up the positive and negative lead to the arcade button,
what terminals do I attach the multimeter too, to check all is okay?

The LED socket connects to the two metal 0.250" "stirrup" tabs pointing vertically in this pic -- not the 3 metal tabs on the microswitch positioned diagonally.



- Set the multimeter to diode check

- Touch the black multimeter lead to the metal "stirrup" tab next to the black plastic tab (far in pic) and the red multimeter lead to the other metal "stirrup" tab. (near in pic)

- If the LED is oriented the right way, the multimeter will provide enough voltage to "forward bias" the diode and dimly light it.

- If the LED doesn't light, unplug the LED holder (white item in pic above), turn it 180 degrees, plug it back in to the socket, and test it again.

The multimeter doesn't provide enough current to brightly light the LED or electrocute you.   


Scott

[MarkyB]

Thankyou Scott,

really helpful, it sounds pretty straightforward to perform
With a multimeter.

Regards

Marc

[BuffaloArcade]

Very helpful.  I'd been searching for days on what the actual terminals and wires were on both the four prong buttons and the LED lamp buttons with the five prongs.  Super helpful.  Thank you.