easyget buttons with Ipac4

[Vestal]

I got the easyget LED 2 player kits from amazon and I have an Ipac4.  The easyget kit comes with its own encoder.  I would like to use the Ipac4 because I paid for it.  Anyone know how it wires up?  Meaning how to I wire the button to the Ipac4 and still get the LED's to light?  The buttons are 4 prong and the common wire is on the right side.

Thanks

[Titchgamer]

You will need a separate driver board for the LEDs.
The Ipac will only control the Buttons.

You can find a wiring diagram for the Ipacs on ultimarcs website.

[Vestal]

I know how to wire to the I-Pac.  The buttons are not labelled nor do they have wiring diagrams - they come with their own board.  The buttons have 4 prongs.  The two on the right are common.  So I am assuming that the ones on the left - one is control and one is led power(5v)  I just don't know how to tell which one is which.  I tried hooking them up to a power supply but I ended up smoking the buttons.  Any help would be appreciated.

THanks

Vestal

[Nephasth]

I know how to wire to the I-Pac.

I tried hooking them up to a power supply but I ended up smoking the buttons.

Good ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- right here.

[PL1]

The buttons are not labelled nor do they have wiring diagrams - they come with their own board.  The buttons have 4 prongs.  The two on the right are common.  So I am assuming that the ones on the left - one is control and one is led power(5v)  I just don't know how to tell which one is which.

1. Set your multimeter to diode check to find the LED.

Red lead on LED positive and black lead on LED negative will forward bias the LED and light it dimly.

The multimeter doesn't provide much current so it won't fry the LED.

2. Set your multimeter to ohms/continuity to verify that the other two are the switch.

3. Check for cross-connections between the LED and the switch -- not likely, but a good idea to check since you don't have a schematic for the buttons.

4. You mentioned smoking some buttons when you hooked them up to a power supply.

Verify that the original board uses 5v to power the LEDs -- if not, you may need some current-limting resistors.   


Scott

[Vestal]

Scott

Thanks a ton.  I will try that!! Exactly what I was looking for.

Second question:
Since these buttons and joysticks come as a "2-player set" and with their own I/O card, if I wanted to do a 4-player arcade - can I just use two of these "2-player sets" plug in these 2 I/O cards to the raspberry pi and key board map to make this a 4-player set and not use the Ipac 4?

Thanks again

Vestal

[PL1]

Forgot to mention that the non-LED version of those ZD Encoders is an "active high" device -- the common is 5v, not ground.

In case you're not sure which wire is ground, look at the underside of the ZD encoder -- all the wires/traces on the outside are tied together so that's ground 5v.

. . .
EDIT: Melvinbates mentions here that the ZD has 5v on the outside plane.

Since these buttons and joysticks come as a "2-player set" and with their own I/O card, if I wanted to do a 4-player arcade - can I just use two of these "2-player sets" plug in these 2 I/O cards to the raspberry pi and key board map to make this a 4-player set and not use the Ipac 4?

The easyget 2-player LED kit pictures on Amazon show one LED ZD Encoder per player.

Configuring the software for four single-player LED ZD Encoders (gamepad-style encoders) will probably be more difficult/confusing than configuring it for one IPac4. (hybrid keyboard/gamepad/mouse-style encoder)

The other considerations are:

1. Can the RasPi handle four USB inputs?

If not, you'll need a powered hub since IIRC the USB spec for un-powered hubs is 100mA/port. (see below)

2. How much current will the LED ZD Encoders draw to light all those LED buttons @ ~20mA per button?

  8 buttons = Coin + Start for all four players
12 buttons = P1 + P2 player buttons (6 each)
  8 buttons = P3 + P4 player buttons (4 each)
  2 buttons = Exit + Pause
----
30 buttons * 20 mA/button = 600 mA + whatever the encoder part of each PCB draws

IIRC the USB spec for motherboard connections is 500mA. (without a powered hub)


Scott

[Vestal]

Scott - thanks again

That might explain smoking the button then.

Hum......

This is why I wanted to use the Ipac and rewire outside of the provided I/O cards.  I haven't even got to the joysticks yet. They have their own connector with 5 wires - I am assuming for the 4 imputs and common. I am just afraid I will get this thing wired up and then it won't work.  The microswitched buttons would of been easier - I just thought I would cash in on these buttons because they were LED and Zero delay features.

All your questions are my questions too.  I am not sure what to do besides spend more money. Any suggestions on what to do from here?

Thanks again
Vestal

[Vestal]

To answer your question about the Raspberry pi - yes it has 4 usb's and I have a usb hub.  I didn't think about the over all amperage consumption.

I have everything to build - spent just under a 1000 for all - to build the stand and all the parts and pieces.

I was hoping to use what I have.

Thanks for all the help.... I will take all I can get!!!

Vestal

[PL1]

I haven't even got to the joysticks yet. They have their own connector with 5 wires - I am assuming for the 4 imputs and common.

Correct.


Scott

[Vestal]

So Scott

If you were me... what would you do?  Get different buttons? Or would you try and rewire what I have?

Ryan

[PL1]

If you were me... what would you do?  Get different buttons? Or would you try and rewire what I have?

If it was me, I wouldn't build a 4-player panel with LED player buttons.   

I don't know what you want/need.   

Before you go any further, have you gone through the "What type of build meets my needs?" section of the FAQ?

https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ

That design process should help you ask the right questions and narrow down what you want to build.

Protip: If your answer to step #2 is "All of them", your odds of success and contentment are pretty much zero.


Scott

[Vestal]

Sorry didn't mean to offend.

I have the cabinet built.  I want a 4 player machine.  I have know how to wire it with micro switches and the Ipac4.  I just wanted to add the "LED buttons" because I thought it was cool.  I even have the Raspberry pi set up and running emulation station. I have 10,000 games. The only thing I need is to hook up the controls, which looked easy but I don't know how to do is use these "sets/kits" style buttons. (without microswitches) If I had a schematic  I can wire it and rewire it, but I wasn't sure how this company utilizes their kit.  They don't provide any wiring schematics at all or any documentation.

Thats what forums are for.  Trying to save from buying the microswitch buttons.

Sorry

Vestal

[PL1]

Sorry didn't mean to offend.

No offense taken -- just wanted to be sure you had thought things through before ordering more stuff.   

I have the cabinet built.  I want a 4 player machine.  I have know how to wire it with micro switches and the Ipac4.  I just wanted to add the "LED buttons" because I thought it was cool.  I even have the Raspberry pi set up and running emulation station. I have 10,000 games. The only thing I need is to hook up the controls, which looked easy but I don't know how to do is use these "sets/kits" style buttons. (without microswitches) If I had a schematic  I can wire it and rewire it, but I wasn't sure how this company utilizes their kit.  They don't provide any wiring schematics at all or any documentation.

The closest I've seen to documentation are images like these from similar kits on Amazon. 





If you want to figure out how to wire these to the IPac and another voltage source (separate power supply or hacked USB cables) for the LEDs, I'll be happy to help you figure out the wiring on these buttons.   

To keep things clear, let's assign letters to the terminals in the pictures above:
A = yellow / B = black
C = red     / D = black

The first step is to set your multimeter to diode check to find if the LED is on the AB (yellow/black) or CD (red/black) terminals of the button -- test with no power applied or encoder wires attached.

Red lead on LED positive and black lead on LED negative will forward bias the LED and light it dimly.

Which pair is connected to the LED? Which tab is positive and which is negative?

The other pair is a simple 2-tab microswitch. (NO and COM)


Scott

[Vestal]

Scott

I have a basic multimeter with continuity, amps, and volts.  I checked continuity and I don't have any continuity between any of the posts.  I hope to get a meter with a diode checker today.  I will keep you posted.  Thanks for taking the time to help.  Once I get through the rewire I am set!!

Thanks again
Vestal

[Titchgamer]

Just to confirm you did have the button held in while testing?
It will be open otherwise

[Vestal]

 

Duh.... 

Sorry.. I will let you know tonight... working to quickly.

Thanks
Vestal

[Vestal]

Scott
 I tested A and B I got continuity when the button was pushed.i tested C&D with the diode test and it lit the light.

[Vestal]

Black was positive red was neg

[Vestal]

Or d was positive and c neg that what lit the light

[PL1]

Microswitch on A + B.

LED Negative (ground) on C.

LED Positive (5v) on D.   


Scott

[Vestal]

OK!!!   That is what I thought..... now for the joystick.   I assume I do the same thing.  Check continuity between each UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT, and the ground to know what wire is what and land them on the I/O card accordingly ..... correct?

THanks again for keeping me in line!!

Vestal

[PL1]

now for the joystick.   I assume I do the same thing.  Check continuity between each UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT, and the ground to know what wire is what and land them on the I/O card accordingly ..... correct?

Yes.
-----
Have you figured out how you want to power the LEDs?

Three options to consider:

  1. Separate external power supply (one rated for ~1A@5v gives you plenty of wiggle room)

  2. Y-cable between the power supply and the RasPi.

  3. Hacked USB cables (you'll need to divide the LEDs into two separate groups)
**Not sure if this option will damage the RasPi USB circuits due to the combined 600mA current draw**

For the daisy-chains and other wiring, Paradise Arcade shop has pre-fab wiring that will make things much easier.

- 16 Wire Rainbow Pack(TM) with .110" Quick Connector here.

- 30 Connection Black Daisy Chain (.110") here.
PROTIP: They don't have them in red but you can use red shrink wrap, scotch-tape wire labels, or "tape flags" to identify each connector on the 5v daisy chain so you don't get it mixed up with the ground daisy chains.  You may also want to label the LED ground chain.

 


Scott

[Vestal]

Yes

I have a separate power supply.  I tested it with the buttons last night.  Should work good.  Thanks for help.  I think... think I should be good.  I will add to this post if I have any further questions.  I will upload a photo when I am done.

Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!
Vestal