Need advice from previous Custom CP Sanwa owners

[Unrealcpu]

After countless google searches , reading slagcoin CP Layout requirement and researching and viewing countless videos online , I have come to the conclusion this is the place where I will find my answers before I start my arcade build.

I will sum this up as short as possible. I will be using 3/4 MDF for the CP and routing out with a mortising bit to 1/4 Inch for the Sanwa JLF joystick.  From my understanding you need at least 8-13mm which is a few mm below and above 1/4 inch to successfully mount the Sanwa JLF, is this correct or should I route to 3/8th or 7/16th to 10-11mm? Keep in mind I will be adding a layer of plexi to the CP and assume this will add 2mm to the top of the CP.

Also is it even worth my time to purchase a JLF S-plate and route out to 1/4 inch and mount? THis approach might not be the best for sturdiness maybe because of only using two m4 screws, however I noticed I can get 6mm m4 screws and maybe countersink some t-nuts to make sure the stick is secure to the mdf ..


If so I am trying to figure out how many millimeters I need to route and what mortising bit I will need? ..  should I take it down to 3/8th . 9.5mm or 7/16th 11mm?  I know the deal you need about 23mm from the ball top to the cp..

My plan for buttons is to use sanwa screw on, 30mm forstner bit and countersink the bottom to 35mm , I hope this is enough so the screw nuts so they don't touch on a vewlix type CP layout.  36mm is recommended and as far as I know minimum install thickness for me should be about 6-10mm thickness.

Thanks for your help

[PL1]

Welcome aboard, Unrealcpu.   

There are several more mounting options in the FAQ.
(Wiki is still down, but here's a link to the Internet Wayback Machine)

https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks

Check out "Under mount (support blocks)".




Scott

[BadMouth]

I've done a few.  None of them really 100% right. 
I tend to just use screws instead of bolts that go all the way through.
My cab would not last in public.

Anyways after routing the first couple I switched to sandwiching a top layer of 1/4" and bottom layer of 1/2" MDF.
I like this way much better.  The 1/4" thickness works good and I like the height it puts the joysticks at, but I wouldn't trust 1/4" to hold the joystick bolts.


On my own cab, I used S-plates and routed the back layer down far enough that the face of them was against the top layer.
It doesn't really leave enough wood to get away with just using screws.  I've got 6 screws in each one (drilled extra holes) and it's probably still going to give out someday.
 
On another CP for someone else, I used the original plate, 1/2" nylon spacers from Lowe's, & some scrap aluminum plate to make my own S bracket.
I like this solution much better than the OEM S bracket.  It feels more solid.  Both because you're bolting into thicker wood and you're using 4 screws (or bolts) instead of 2.   I used a large bit and drill press to taper the mounting holes in the mounting plate so they would sit more flush in it.



My other tip is to cut out the button holes close enough that the button nuts (rings) on the back just barely touch.
It keeps the buttons evenly spaced.   

Button wrenches don't work on the Japanese style buttons, so you need a fair amount of room around the outside edge to get your fingers in there to tighten them.

[Unrealcpu]

Wow thank you for the write up and pictures.. Since I am on a mobile device I am limited to what I can write back. This is exactly what I was looking for prior to building my arcade cab.. I do plan to make a vewlix clone in the spring, for now though I might make something small either a vertical or horizontal bar top 2player.   
I am definitely going with 3/4 for extra sturdiness to avoid warping.. still have to buy a decent plunge router and so far got all the bits. Even got the 3/4 inch Freud bit that Donavan meyiers used that cost 44 bucks on Amazon so I can make that incredible 3/4 45 degree bevel ..     anyway I am so tempted to just go 3/4 inch and use classic concave or convex competition buttons and joysticks so I don't have to do serious CP mod for the joysticks and buttons. 
But you are right and so is the mod that posted a very helpful wiki link with pictures how layering on the bottom side with blocks for the joystick can work .  Your picture with the modded metal plate is pretty cool.  HOwver I think for me right now is to buy an S plate for 5 bucks for each joystick and route out the necessary area for the joystick. I think this way should give me more than 10mm of wood to counter sink some t-nuts for 10mm m4 screws . I will be buying a plunge router and have a specific mortising bit to basically take 3/4 down to about 1/4 or 6 mm ..  I think 3/8th or 10mm should be enough for the screw type buttons made by sanwa, not only that acrylic plexi should make the panel a lot harder . . I think  two screws will be enough for the joystick with the use of the S plate as long as I use  t-nuts . Would anyone like to chime in about using the S plate ? I don't think the stock JLF is suitable for custom control panel even with the use of blocks since you have less than  1/4 inch or about 8 mm of wood.  I do think s plate will work well with t nuts  even with just two m4 screws and with the compatible m4 tnuts .
I can see why most people online just go with happ competition covex ,

Oh also has anyone experienced happ competition convex vs sanwa 30mm screw in buttons? We all know there is a lot more distance from the top of the button to the bottom where the cherry switch is activated vs happ and sanwa ..however is this really that noticible? I guess I am spoiled with mad catz fight sticks with sanwa parts.

Bad mouth I forgot to mention , why would this person what a crazy amount of buttons in one area lol . I can see this becoming a serious weak point in the Control panel.  Also you should have just routed out about 35-35 mm for each button and this would have at least left a few MIlimeters of thickness in the wood between buttons .  Personally I think this is a bad idea in theory to mount sanwa buttons .
Using 1/6 inch plexi should always be used on top to increase the structural integrity of the CP. what forstner bit are people using for sanwa buttons on the backside? 35mm or 36 mm to counter sink . I ordered 35mm and hope this is doable , I think I should have gone with slagcoin recommendation of 36mm because of the sanwa plastic nuts.

[BadMouth]

Bad mouth I forgot to mention , why would this person what a crazy amount of buttons in one area lol . I can see this becoming a serious weak point in the Control panel. 

It was for a paraplegic guy who didn't have use of his hands, but could still hit buttons with his pinky knuckle.
He came up with the layout.  The buttons are all grouped together so he can get to them faster.
He said it worked good, although he did ocassionaly hit start or select by accident.  If there is a version 2.0 it will probably have those moved up a bit.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,128941.0.html

Also you should have just routed out about 35-35 mm for each button and this would have at least left a few MIlimeters of thickness in the wood between buttons .

Not sure exactly what you mean here.  The nuts that screw on the back are wider than the top side of the buttons.
I use them as a guide with them just touching, so the amount of wood between the holes would be equal to double the thickness of the nuts.

The diameter of the nuts on the back are 35mm, so it sounds like we're talking about the same amount.
(that would leave 5mm between button holes.)


For the recess behind the buttons though....
A 35mm hole leaves no room around the edge to get your fingers in there to tighten the nut.
So, I'm saying on the backside you need to route it out a little farther around the outer edge of where the button group is so you can get your fingers in there to tighten them.  Maybe you could get in there with a pin and turn the nuts a little at a time.
Start in the middle and work outward when installing the buttons.

[Unrealcpu]

Makes sense about the buttons , having to route. Slagcoin recommends 36mm to counter sink the buttons so the screw nuts can be accessed to tighten . Might have to return the 35mm forstner and order 36mm