No matter if you choose to laminate, roll, wrap or spray your final finish, do your best to get the prep right. Take your time, fight that voice in your head that says "this is boring, sanding is boring, sanding primer is boring, sanding filler is boring, putting on more primer is boring" Once your done you can stand back and say, I did that! Feck, I'm awesome!
The prep: looks like you've put in some hard work already
-time to break out that brand new dust mask you just purchased, technicolour boogers do not impress anyone
-make sure all of the old paint is removed. Different types of paint can react with each other.
-Machine sand the large flat areas with 80-120p(aka grit) and on a low speed.
-as a note regarding machine sanding speed, slower will remove more material and the faster the speed the finer the scratches.
-Block sand the edges, using a sanding block will remove material quicker
-also with block or machine sanding, don't press down too hard. This will allow the dust to escape from between the paper and the thing you're sanding, causing less clogging and better quality levelling of the surface. Firm downward pressure but not hard, let the sand paper do some of the hard work. Make friends with the sand paper, you'll be spending some time together.
-once that's done, a quick 180p on a medium speed on the large surfaces and on the narrow edges by hand without a block
-where possible use compressed air to blow the surface dust
-It's Filler Time!
-I didnt find any advantage using wood hardener, even on chip board
-I find two component filler the best, aka body filler, bog, bondo, you add a small amount of hardener to the filler. It dries quickly and thoroughly by chemical reaction just as long as the directions on the can are followed. As a rule of thumb, more is less. Sure, if you mix in a lot of hardener it will dry quicker but, there's a chance the colour of the hardener could bleed through to your top coat!
-only mix a small amount of filler at a time, it drys quick. You can always mix more.
-that bottom corner of your cabinet may take a few goes with the filler in order to get it flat and square. Applying filler to holes is easy, making a shape with filler is an art form. Some tradesman take years to perfect the technique. Don't get discouraged!
-Once the filler starts to harden, it's time to stop applying and leave it alone. Go mix up more if you need to.
-I like to use a metal filler applicator like this
-while the filler is drying, go clean your applicator with some thinners and take a one coffee(sometime between 7:30am to 10am) or one beer break(time of day optional). That should give the filler enough time to have dried. You can use a heat gun or even a hairdryer to speed it up if it's cold where you're working. Only warm up the filler, no need to cook it.
-dust mask back on!
-block sand the smaller holes with 120p-180p, finish off with 240p. Run your finger over the filled hole, if you feel a little divit, apply another small fine layer of filler, block sand again with 180p and finish off with 240p
-hey, where's that mask!
-for the corner, start with 80p using a block making sure you hold the block flat on the surface. When you have removed most of the filler, still holding the block flat on what ever surface your working on, use sanding strokes towards and off the edge. Run your hand over the corner or use a strait edge to test if it is to the shape needed. Just like the process for the holes, apply a fine layer of filler to finish the area and do a fine block sanding.
-blow the dust off
-have a break
Now you're ready for Prime time, and you have some choices to make.
-I like to use two component (2pac)primers, this is the stuff used on modern cars. It's not the best stuff to be breathing in, for you or your family/neighbours. So a good "gas" mask is needed and a well ventilated area that is away from other people. There are two ways this can be applied. Spraying, it can even be rolled. Each technique has pros and cons. Spraying will give a flatter surface making easier to sand, uses less primer and quicker, but the overspray will go everywhere that's not covered. Rolling 2pac will use a lot of primer, peely(orange peel effect), lots of bigger dust blemishes, but no overspray, less fumes for un masked people.
-While 2pac is my preference, there is also automotive Acrylic primer. Acrylic was used on vehicles pre 90's. It just needs to be thinned down and sprayed. 2pac will require 2 or three coats where as automotive acrylic will require 4 or 5. Acrylic is less lethal than 2pac, it is less durable, it has a higher degree of reaction to other paint types, it cost less than 2pac. Acrylic can be difficult to sand since it is plastic and it never really fully drys or cures. It is still possible to get a great final finish with this type of primer. Back in the day, apprentices would start to learn with this type of paint.
-house paint primer is my least favourite and do not recommend it if you're after a finish that has less orange peel effect. I've used top shelf, black label, hand made in Germany house paint type primers. I just trusted what the label said, "easy to sand". Worst stuff, it cracked, it clogged sand paper and flaked off the boards. If you just want to roll on the final finish, then I recommend this. Roll it on, it will build up an orange peel texture which will hide most imperfections. Once it's dry, a light once over with 240p sand paper to remove any largish dust particles and you're ready to roll.
-pressure pack, rattle can, spray can primers and paint. There is so many different types of this on the market. Depends on what is available and legal in your neck of the woods. The quality has improved over the years. There are cans that spray in a fan shape for better coverage, there is even 2pac versions. Painting a large area with an aerosol can be tiring. Just think about holding that spray cap down the entire time. It can expensive. Also If the air temp is too warm the paint will dry while you are applying the paint, which makes it difficult to achieve an even final finish
-while it's not a type of paint you may want to consider one of these spray guns. I've used one to put on 2pac primer. It has some advantages over a traditional compressed air spray gun. It's a bit quieter, it's cheaper than a compressor setup with an HVLP spray gun and it seems to have less fumes(don't be silly, still use a mask). There are many makes and models, check 'em out. I know I was surprised what can be achieved.
I've seen an impressive full size Zelda cabinet on this forum. The quality of the prep he's done is excellent and it shows in the final gold wrapped finish. Sorry don't know how to add the link(no pun intended) to the project thread. It's worth searching to have a look!
It is a major job going down the 2pac path but I believe the time and effort is all worth it in the end. Except for the money, oh Iforgot to mention the money!
If you want any more info Im happy to help.
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