Advice needed on 4 player frankenpanel (Dream Home Arcades) rotary and other ?

[Rockstead]

Some of you will not appreciate this type of build, I can respect that, but it's not t feedback I'm looking for, deposit has been left and I'm doing it.

The 4 player bat sticks are 8-way, I was told I could switch my player 1 and 2 to 8-way rotary controls and it won't impact the normal 8-way stick games and I won't be able to tell the difference that I'm using a rotary control.

Can anyone share their opinion on this, I don't want to mess up the majority of games for the small minority that support rotary controls. I'll only be  able to afford this type of purchase one in my life, it's my mid-life crisis purchase

Similar question on spinners, would there be any difference to the user if you used a push / pull Spinner vs a Spinner that doesn't move? Push / Pull would be make tron perfect, but I don't want to give up functionality for other Spinner games.
‎
I attached a picture of my planned build.

[PL1]

Here are a few links that may help you decide based on the games supported.

    Rotary joystick:  http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Joysticks#Rotary_Joysticks

Some games work well without a rotary stick by remapping the rotary functions to buttons like this.

    Push/pull spinner:  http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials#Push.2Fpull_spinner_games

Only 4 games use the push/pull function -- the push/pull shouldn't cause a problem in other spinner games.


Scott

[Rockstead]

Thanks Scott, I tend to over think these things. As a resident expert, what would you do?

Based on what you said, I see no reason not to do the push / pull spinner, But I have no idea if I should be messing with a proven control panel that DHA sells, the owner mentioned that only 1 in a 100 customer might request it, I also read elsewhere that the controls won't feel the same when used as an eight way, although DHA said it won't make a difference, I'm kind of scared.‎

[yotsuya]

Some of you will not appreciate this type of build, I can respect that, but it's not t feedback I'm looking for, deposit has been left and I'm doing it.

I respect your honesty. Having said that, good luck with your build.


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[PL1]

The question you are asking is the equivalent of asking what kind of motor vehicle you should buy.

Person 1 - "Toyota Camry."
Person 2 - "No, a Ford F-150!"
Person 3 - "No, a mini-van!"
Person 4 - "You're gonna regret buying anything less than a stake-bed truck with a hydraulic tailgate-lift."
Person 5 - "How can anyone even consider anything but a Mercedes?"

The correct answer depends on your needs/wants/budget.

Here's one other thought to consider:  It's easier to replace a rotary joystick (4 microswitches + rotary switch) with a non-rotary joystick (4 microswitches) than it is to replace a non-rotary with a rotary.

WARNING: If you want the option to swap joysticks in case the first ones don't feel right, check on what joystick mounting hardware the vendor uses.

Hopefully they don't use wood screws into MDF which would force you to use a different mounting method for the replacement.

Regardless of what kind of thread geometry the wood screw has, with MDF you can only tighten it reliably once. When you loosen and retighten a screw in MDF it pulps and strips it.

Scott
EDIT: Just noticed that the pic you posted shows carriage bolt heads for the joystick mounts -- swapping sticks should be easy.   

[Rockstead]

I don't think my question is equivalent to that at all, more like, I've chosen a specific car, brand, and model but I'm interested in an option that may affect my drive, so I ask someone who has extensive experience on what they think.

[BadMouth]

Unrelated to your actual question, but make sure they don't angle your P3&4 joysticks.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137496.msg1418704.html#msg1418704

The one in the pic you posted has them slightly angled.  If you need more convincing do a search of the main forum here.

Sorry for not answering your question, but it is related to you not being disappointed in a very large purchase. 

I haven't used Happ rotary sticks before, but if I were in your shoes I'd go for them.
If you decide you don't like them, swap them with the lesser used player 3&4 joysticks and remap the few rotary games in MAME to use those controls instead.
Guests probably aren't going to be able to tell the difference.
You also always have the option of dropping plain joysticks back in it.  Those bat top happ comps only cost around $8-10 each.

[Rockstead]

Badmouth, Thank you so much for the feedback. If they look and feel exactly the same way, then why not (still waiting for confirmation on that). If I end up having them, I could do as you say, move them to player 3 and 4 or swap them out completely. 
‎
Is swapping them out something I could easily do, I don't have to mess with wires or anything like that?

I really appreciate the advice on the angled controls, I'm going to message that user because I was worried the 8-ways wouldn't play Karate champ right and just other feedback since he is bought a similar unit.

The thing I'm confused about is that his player 3 and 4 are angled? Wouldn't none nailed mean all the sticks are leveled and the panel would have to be even wider?

‎

[BadMouth]

Is swapping them out something I could easily do, I don't have to mess with wires or anything like that?

You'd have to unplug a quick disconnect terminal for each direction and move it over to the replacement stick. EDIT: UNLESS THEY ARE SOLDERING THE SWITCHES...MAYBE YOU BETTER ASK.
There will also be a ground to each switch connected via a quick disconnect, but they will be daisy chained and it doesn't matter what order you put them back in.


The joysticks are held in by 4 carriage bolts (you can see the tops of them on the pic you posted), so that part is simple.

The thing I'm confused about is that his player 3 and 4 are angled? Wouldn't none nailed mean all the sticks are leveled and the panel would have to be even wider?

No, everything on the panel stays in the same place.  Player 3 or 4 still stand at an angle, buttons are still angled, but the joystick is not angled.
The joystick is oriented parallel with P1 & P2.

It's counter-intuitive but players will move the joystick in relation to the character on the screen, not their own body.
Google pics of all the old 4 player arcade games like Gauntlet and The Simpsons.  Look at the up arrow on the artwork or the carriage bolt heads.
They are all "non-angled".  There were a couple exceptions where a company tried to angle the sticks, but none of the popular games had them angled.

Angled sticks aren't unuseable, but if a guest who hasn't used the machine walks up and starts playing it will take them some time to adjust.
The non-angled stick is more intuitive to use and doesn't have a learning curve.

[PL1]

Good catch on the angled sticks, BadMouth.   

I don't think my question is equivalent to that at all, more like, I've chosen a specific car, brand, and model but I'm interested in an option that may affect my drive, so I ask someone who has extensive experience on what they think.

Actually, you've chosen the garage (pedestal/control panel) that will house the cars. (joysticks/buttons/spinner)   

Q: Which is the best joystick/button/other control type?
A: Depends.   

Each game was originally designed and fine-tuned for a specific set of controls.

Generally speaking, the closer you can get to the original, the better suited the controls are for that game.

The other consideration is your personal preferences.

Some people can't tell the difference between the handling of a Zippyy and an LS-32, but some can.

Some people hate Happ Supers (the joystick that the Happ Rotary is based on) but I like them.

The bottom line is that preferences regarding controls are highly subjective.


Scott

[harveybirdman]

I can't say anything constructive about this but I am interested in the final pricetag so following.

[Rockstead]

quote]
No, everything on the panel stays in the same place.  Player 3 or 4 still stand at an angle, buttons are still angled, but the joystick is not angled.
The joystick is oriented parallel with P1 & P2.

It's counter-intuitive but players will move the joystick in relation to the character on the screen, not their own body.
Google pics of all the old 4 player arcade games like Gauntlet and The Simpsons.  Look at the up arrow on the artwork or the carriage bolt heads.
They are all "non-angled".  There were a couple exceptions where a company tried to angle the sticks, but none of the popular games had them angled.

Angled sticks aren't unuseable, but if a guest who hasn't used the machine walks up and starts playing it will take them some time to adjust.
The non-angled stick is more intuitive to use and doesn't have a learning curve.
[/quote]

BadMouth,

Thanks again for your feedback, I had not even gotten to the point where I was asking about the layout because that isn't actually my design from Dream Home Arcades, but it's the one I was going to ask them to build, I had found the picture on their site.

How were you able to tell the player 3 and 4 were angled, I don't see arrows on the panel (maybe Im not looking close enough).

It's hard for me to picture how the 3rd and 4th player use the same directional angles as player 1 and 2 and not have a hard time pressing the required buttons, doesn't that become an issue?

Thanks to you I also found all the kaneda threads, I actually reached out to him, I hope he responds.

I understand what you are saying now, directionly they should all be the same regardless of where the person standing, so let's say I had not noticed, would I have been able to fix that myself through software? would it have been feasible for me to open up the control panel and rotate it? I ask because kaneda had said that you guys saved his build on that, so it sounded like it would not have been fixable.

Anything else constructive you can provide, I know you guys had kaneda fix his button placement, are the ones on my picture okay?

I have to say I'm worried about the spacing for the dedicated 4-way, but I was assured it works well, not sure how.

[yotsuya]

If you Beetlejuice Kaneda, I WILL gut you....

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[harveybirdman]

Went back and read your first post....

I don't want to mess up the majority of games for the small minority that support rotary controls.

Yet you're willing to do it for spinners, tron stick, and dedicated 4way?

I bet for half the budget you could so a 4P pedestal with Trackball support that will suffice for 96% of everything you and your friends will play.  I say play but they'd probably spend most of the time navigating what will undoubtedly be a unweildly gameslist.  Od course I know that at 37 I will never have three (let alone 5) of my friends over at once unless it's my kid having a sleepover or something but I'm not starting that argument with you.

I know you said you're doing this and you don't want any of this type of feedback, but what you're saying doesn't make any sense to me.

[Rockstead]

Went back and read your first post....

I don't want to mess up the majority of games for the small minority that support rotary controls.

Yet you're willing to do it for spinners, tron stick, and dedicated 4way?

I bet for half the budget you could so a 4P pedestal with Trackball support that will suffice for 96% of everything you and your friends will play.  I say play but they'd probably spend most of the time navigating what will undoubtedly be a unweildly gameslist.  Od course I know that at 37 I will never have three (let alone 5) of my friends over at once unless it's my kid having a sleepover or something but I'm not starting that argument with you.

I know you said you're doing this and you don't want any of this type of feedback, but what you're saying doesn't make any sense to me.

I can respect people calling it ugly, especially at a DYI forum, but there are no forums for people who buy units like this, plenty of people referred me to people that would be better than this large sellers, but no one was able to present themselves in a professional manner, price lists, options, quotes in a reasonable time, couldn't offer safe shipping, warranty, phone support, references, portfolio of past builds, proven build designs among other things, I can't design a system, I wouldn't even try, I can't even design art work, I have 0 aritistic ability, I need a complete turn key solution.

I have 4 young kids, most people wouldn't agree with that either and I wouldn't recommend it This thing will get more family use than you can imagine, and I also own all the current gen systems with 4 controls and I can tell you that I hate them, aside from Mario Kart on the Wii U, the games just aren't fun, too heavy on the graphics and nothing on the gameplay, the gameplay on arcades from the late 80s and 90s is what made me a gamer for life and that's all I did back then, it was all about getting to the arcade with my friends, and I still have those same key friends that are waiting to come over, except now none of us smoke and there will be no cigarette burns or seedy characters wanting to talk to me or asking me how old I am or if I like to get high It's funny, because I look back now and the arcades that used to exist in my city (Montreal) were all also accompanied by xxx video booths, imagine today hearing about something that attracts children in the same establishment that hosts men jerkin it in a small booth in the same vicinity as to where your kids are playing, my how things have changed.

In terms of space, I can only do this one cabinet, it's not going to happen again, it just isn't feasible. So I know it could be considered fugly, but feedback like badmouth gave is exactly what I was looking for, I would have wanted to kill myself on the angled sticks, and I so so appreciate getting that feedback, unlike Kaneda, nothing has been built, I have nothing to re-do, I'm taking the time to make the best out of this type of design.

[Nephasth]

Kaneda is a --cream-filled twinkie--. Don't be like Kaneda. And quit "reaching out" to that dipshit.

[harveybirdman]

I didn't intend to say it was fugly, only that you are sacraficing intuitive playability either way so the rotary question is moot.

At least do a 4 way 8 way switchable for player one instead of a dedicated 4 way.  There are no simultaneously played 4 way games so you only need one.

[yotsuya]

Maybe it would behoove Dream Home Arcades to host their own forum for these type of questions.

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[Rockstead]

I can't say anything constructive about this but I am interested in the final pricetag so following.

It's embarrassing telling people who build their own machines, but including shipping, in the area of 4300usd.

I didn't want to mention it because it will bring out flames from those waiting to pounce, it will bring out ton of messages about how someone can sell it cheaper, but I've got nothing to hide and it's worth mentioning that some respected builders from the Mame Arcade Builders on FB quoted near identical pricing, I don't have an issue with it, it's a once in a lifetime purchase for me.‎

[Rockstead]

Maybe it would behoove Dream Home Arcades to host their own forum for these type of questions.

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I guess you are saying you don't want my kind around here, anyhow everyone wants to be able to ask someone other than the company they are buying from, regardless of the product.

[Rockstead]

I didn't intend to say it was fugly, only that you are sacraficing intuitive playability either way so the rotary question is moot.

At least do a 4 way 8 way switchable for player one instead of a dedicated 4 way.  There are no simultaneously played 4 way games so you only need one.

But if player 1 and 2 can be rotary / 8-way and there would be no difference to the user and game play wouldn't be affected for either type of play (rotary or 8-way play), why would I give that up for a 4 way/ 8 way when I have the dedicated 4-way positioned already? ‎

[harveybirdman]

Well to me it's about real estate on the panel and aesthics but clearly that doesn't bother you.  If you Combine functionality you could make players 3 and 2 the rotary support or 3 and 4 and have the switchable joy at P1.

If you're interested in why your thread might rankle some feathers we can have that conversation. But out of respect for the forum diehards I will refrain from rehashing old stuff.

Honestly it doesn't directly affect my market and no original hardware will be harmed in the making of your project so go for it.

I do think you'd be happier with a switching joystick for player one instead of a dedicated 4 way but other than that and the advice you've already received I doubt there is any left you want to hear.

And I know you don't care but I bet I could buy 5 to 8 dedicated games for that price.

[yotsuya]

Maybe it would behoove Dream Home Arcades to host their own forum for these type of questions.

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I guess you are saying you don't want my kind around here, anyhow everyone wants to be able to ask someone other than the company they are buying from, regardless of the product.

Don't put words in my mouth. What I'm saying is that it would be beneficial for DHA to have a place where they could answer these questions for potential customers. Especially, as you said,  there doesn't seem to currently be a place for their customers to get answers.

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[Rockstead]

I never said that, I came here looking for feedback on rotary controls and a push / pull spinner vs a regular Spinner. I got lucky with Badmouth telling me about the angled controls, so I was hoping for more feedback like that. In fact I haven't even spoken to DHA about that, so I can't assume they would have done that, I don't know.  ‎

I never came here and commented about how nice this is, don't you guys agree, I don't need your approval to feel good about it. I knew ahead of time there would be people here that wouldn't like this kind of build, but yet I'm subjected to the same kind of responses as if I did.‎
‎
In terms of DHA, their pre-sale service has been excellent so far, no complaints.

Anyhow, we all have something in common, we love arcade games.‎

[BadMouth]

How were you able to tell the player 3 and 4 were angled, I don't see arrows on the panel (maybe Im not looking close enough).

The joysticks are mounted by carriage bolts, one in each corner.
In the pic, you can tell that the joysticks are slightly angled by where the heads of the carriage bolts are in relation to the straight lines of the artwork.

I understand what you are saying now, directionly they should all be the same regardless of where the person standing, so let's say I had not noticed, would I have been able to fix that myself through software? would it have been feasible for me to open up the control panel and rotate it?

No.  You'd have to drill new holes for the bolts and possibly route out the area for the joystick.

It's hard for me to picture how the 3rd and 4th player use the same directional angles as player 1 and 2 and not have a hard time pressing the required buttons, doesn't that become an issue?

I don't understand why it would be an issue.  Again, look at pictures of the control panels of your favorite 4 player arcade games and see how the joysticks are oriented.


I just felt obligated to give a heads up.  Not looking to debate the issue or spend my free time trying to convince a random person on the internet that I speaketh the truth.
At least not on a weekend.  If I were at work, I might waste my time doing such a thing just to kill time. 

[yotsuya]

You said, and I quote, " but there are no forums for people who buy units like this," so I said, "gee, maybe DHA should host one." Nothing more, nothing less. I didn't call you a heathen or infidel or that you insulted my purist tendencies or anything like that. I think it WOULD be nice if DHA and Maximus Arcades had their own forums to help potential customers get answers. I never said "your kind and your questions" weren't welcome here. Hell, no one has. My comment was completely about DHA and not about you.

As I said, good luck with your build.

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[yotsuya]

How were you able to tell the player 3 and 4 were angled, I don't see arrows on the panel (maybe Im not looking close enough).

The joysticks are mounted by carriage bolts, one in each corner.
In the pic, you can tell that the joysticks are slightly angled by where the heads of the carriage bolts are in relation to the straight lines of the artwork.

I understand what you are saying now, directionly they should all be the same regardless of where the person standing, so let's say I had not noticed, would I have been able to fix that myself through software? would it have been feasible for me to open up the control panel and rotate it?

No.  You'd have to drill new holes for the bolts and possibly route out the area for the joystick.

It's hard for me to picture how the 3rd and 4th player use the same directional angles as player 1 and 2 and not have a hard time pressing the required buttons, doesn't that become an issue?

I don't understand why it would be an issue.  Again, look at pictures of the control panels of your favorite 4 player arcade games and see how the joysticks are oriented.


I just felt obligated to give a heads up.  Not looking to debate the issue or spend my free time trying to convince a random person on the internet that I speaketh the truth.
At least not on a weekend.  If I were at work, I might waste my time doing such a thing just to kill time. 

Solid advice, my friend.

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[Rockstead]

Badmouth,

I should clarify, I wasn't debating with you, I'm going to make sure to do it exactly as you said, I guess I just don't remember my days gaming in the arcade.‎

Are you okay with the button layout (aside from the 8/6 buttons), spacing and aligned for finger size vs aligned equally?‎
I guess after reading all the Kenda threads, I was expected to be beaten up, but I'm listening to everything that has been said, I'm not pushing back on anything.

I mean I expect people not to like how busy it is, but when you tell me something flat out won't work or be careful of this because it won't work as you expect it to or we have have seen this mistake made before, I totally appreciate the years of experience you guys have.‎

[zallax]

I definitely agree with BadMouth.  Joysticks should not be diagonal.  Players adjust to it very easily if not naturally. 

If you go with mechanical rotaries, like LS-30's.  I would highly recommend Groovy Game Gear's GP-Wiz40 MAX with Rotary support.  It was the only encoder I could find that seemed to work consistently with fast rotation of those sticks.

Another thing to consider is the trackball.  With more controls, comes less movement available to the trackball.  If you're an avid fan of Golden Tee and/or similar games, your layout might make the trackball feel cramped.  I personally suck at those games, so on my crowded panel it is not as much of a loss.  Just remember to try and not place the joystick at P2 in-line or at the 45 degree mark as you can see below on my panel.



Lastly, think about ergonomics.  I personally would rotate your button sets.  One thing I learned when re-making my panel is that the button sets were close to the joysticks.  The configuration like you've shown, causes the player to keep their wrists close together and then twisted back in order to stay in proper orientation with the controls.  While using the joystick and button set, your arms will make the shape of a ^ with your wrists twisting back to to line up best with the button orientation.  This is, by no means, ergonomic and will wear you out over long usage.  In my configuration above,  the button set is rotated to allow the left arm to stay perpendicular to the screen and the right arm rotated in a little to the left.  My arms are effectively in this orientation | \, but more importantly neither of my wrists are twisted which makes it much more comfortable to play.

Good luck with your panel!

[yotsuya]

I definitely agree with BadMouth.  Joysticks should not be diagonal.  Players adjust to it very easily if not naturally. 

If you go with mechanical rotaries, like LS-30's.  I would highly recommend Groovy Game Gear's GP-Wiz40 MAX with Rotary support.  It was the only encoder I could find that seemed to work consistently with fast rotation of those sticks.

Another thing to consider is the trackball.  With more controls, comes less movement available to the trackball.  If you're an avid fan of Golden Tee and/or similar games, your layout might make the trackball feel cramped.  I personally suck at those games, so on my crowded panel it is not as much of a loss.  Just remember to try and not place the joystick at P2 in-line or at the 45 degree mark as you can see below on my panel.



Lastly, think about ergonomics.  I personally would rotate your button sets.  One thing I learned when re-making my panel is that the button sets were close to the joysticks.  The configuration like you've shown, causes the player to keep their wrists close together and then twisted back in order to stay in proper orientation with the controls.  While using the joystick and button set, your arms will make the shape of a ^ with your wrists twisting back to to line up best with the button orientation.  This is, by no means, ergonomic and will wear you out over long usage.  In my configuration above,  the button set is rotated to allow the left arm to stay perpendicular to the screen and the right arm rotated in a little to the left.  My arms are effectively in this orientation | \, but more importantly neither of my wrists are twisted which makes it much more comfortable to play.

Good luck with your panel!

Great advice, as well.

The only thing I'll add to this conversation, which I consider to be helpful, is this: make sure that you let dreamhomearcades know that you have clear expectations and that you as a paying customer want your machine built to your specifications. Don't let them try to talk you out of something just because they say "we've sold hundreds of machines and we never had to do that." You're spending your good hard-earned money on a product, it should be made the way you want it.

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[Rockstead]

I definitely agree with BadMouth.  Joysticks should not be diagonal.  Players adjust to it very easily if not naturally. 

If you go with mechanical rotaries, like LS-30's.  I would highly recommend Groovy Game Gear's GP-Wiz40 MAX with Rotary support.  It was the only encoder I could find that seemed to work consistently with fast rotation of those sticks.

Another thing to consider is the trackball.  With more controls, comes less movement available to the trackball.  If you're an avid fan of Golden Tee and/or similar games, your layout might make the trackball feel cramped.  I personally suck at those games, so on my crowded panel it is not as much of a loss.  Just remember to try and not place the joystick at P2 in-line or at the 45 degree mark as you can see below on my panel.



Lastly, think about ergonomics.  I personally would rotate your button sets.  One thing I learned when re-making my panel is that the button sets were close to the joysticks.  The configuration like you've shown, causes the player to keep their wrists close together and then twisted back in order to stay in proper orientation with the controls.  While using the joystick and button set, your arms will make the shape of a ^ with your wrists twisting back to to line up best with the button orientation.  This is, by no means, ergonomic and will wear you out over long usage.  In my configuration above,  the button set is rotated to allow the left arm to stay perpendicular to the screen and the right arm rotated in a little to the left.  My arms are effectively in this orientation | \, but more importantly neither of my wrists are twisted which makes it much more comfortable to play.

Good luck with your panel!

Thank you, I had not considered the wrist position. The problem is that I don't know what I don't know and this forum has been invaluable at this point. I will admit at the amount I'm spending, I'm assuming all these things are considered by the builder as this is a turn key solution, but that's my fault for assuming.

I also don't have all the experience of past builds to know that these are things I should consider. I added it to my list of what I will ask them to do, I'll ask for a layout and show it around before anything is cut.

I need to mention that I have no idea if DHA has corrected these type of things in their newer builds, I just chose a picture from their site but it's not my actual build, so I don't want my comments to be seen as negative towards them, because they are not.

[yotsuya]

I need to mention that I have no idea if DHA has corrected these type of things in their newer builds, I just chose a picture from their site but it's not my actual build, so I don't want my comments to be seen as negative towards them, because they are not.

I don't think DHA thinks these are things that need to be corrected.


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[zallax]

I forgot to respond on your spinner question.  TRON does not use a push/pull spinner, Discs of TRON does.  As for which spinner you should use, that depends on which games are more important to you. 

I have a dedicated Push/Pull DoT spinner.  Is it the best for play Araknoid?  I'm sure it's not.  However, I am probably in the top 5 best Discs of Tron players in the world, therefore, I had to have it. 

Which push/pull spinner is better, Blackhawk or TurboTwist High-Low?  Blackhawk is a fantastic piece of hardware but it huge in regards to footprint beneath the panel.  TurboTwist High-Low, however, works almost as good but utilizing much less real estate. 

If DoT is not an absolute favorite of yours, I would recommend a regular TurboTwist 2 with the Enery Storage Cylinder.

[DeLuSioNal29]

It's embarrassing telling people who build their own machines, but including shipping, in the area of 4300usd.

Can you get your deposit back?  Seriously.  For that price you can get one at ArcadesRfun and have a better looking system:
http://arcadesrfun.com/

I've used them before, Jack knows his stuff.

DeL

[Rockstead]

I only left a $500 deposit this past Friday and I can get that back if I needed to because the build has not started, I still have a few weeks before anything starts.

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[Nephasth]

Drop a couple grand on tools and a grand on building your own. Then you'll have a $2000 investment in sweet ass tools and a $1000 toy you'll be bored of in a year or two. Not to mention all the mad skillz you'll acquire along the way!

[harveybirdman]

Drop a couple grand on tools and a grand on building your own. Then you'll have a $2000 investment in sweet ass tools and a $1000 toy you'll be bored of in a year or two. Not to mention all the mad skillz you'll acquire along the way!

Dude that's mystics from Dark Crystal level wisdom right there son.

OP I know that might not be your path but I hope the future readers of this forum consider it as they begin their own journey.

BYOAC for life ( as well as refurbish your own and clone your own)

[drventure]

Drop a couple grand on tools and a grand on building your own. Then you'll have a $2000 investment in sweet ass tools and a $1000 toy you'll be bored of in a year or two. Not to mention all the mad skillz you'll acquire along the way!

Gotta second this comment.

But, if not, I'd seriously consider U360s (not sure if they were mentioned, the thread got long).

Fantastic joysticks that work with pretty much everything. They aren't +exactly+ the same feel as the original arcade switch driven sticks, but they're so flexible, they're totally worth it, and you already are going for something that's quite outside the "original arcade" look and feel, sooooo......

[DeLuSioNal29]

I'm all for building too. I agree with you guys.

However, if time is a concern and you still want to proceed, ArcadesRfun is having a Father's Day sale. Looks like it includes all software pre-configured too.



Check out the Facebook page.

DeL

[Rockstead]

Thank you everyone, I requested a refund of my deposit yesterday.

I'll start a new thread to discuss what I want in a build, I could start it here but it's no longer a discussion about a purchase from DHA.