My beginners guide to wiring some common components in a MAME machine.

[markronz]

A year or two back I helped an old friend build a MAME arcade machine. The only issue was he had no experience whatsoever with wiring AND he lived across the country. Over the phone and email I was able to guide him from start to finish how to build and wire everything. I made him a wiring guide that covers a lot of the usual parts used in a cabinet. It's a massive PDF document with lots of pictures in it. Just thought I'd share the guide in case it's of any use to anyone. Some of it is specific to his particular computer, like the power button stuff, but most of it is general and could be of benefit to newbies to look at as a starting point.   In no way am I saying the way I wired things is the ONLY way to do things. It is however one way to do things.  Obviously there are a bevy of great choices out there for parts too. 

Seems a waste to make it and then have only one person ever view it. Otherwise if you're starting with no knowledge on how to wire, this will give you a good overview. Enjoy.

Let me know if you have any feedback!

My Wiring 101 PDF

[yotsuya]

Just skimmed through it, well done!

[markronz]

Thanks!   

[Slippyblade]

Very well done.  Maybe upload it to the files section so it stays on the board no matter what?

[chrisvg]

nice job!

[markronz]

Very well done.  Maybe upload it to the files section so it stays on the board no matter what?

Thanks!  How do I do that?

[P.H.U.]

Here is my feedback:

Firstly, I am a beginner. Bought my first cab for MAME around November 2015 and am learning as I go. I can see from your signature, you are an old school CRT guy. I think there are some vestiges in your methodology that don't translate to MAME. Or, for MAME, they can do without. For instance:

• The coin door lights, the marquee lights, the power for those can all be harvested from a PC's PSU. As such, there is no need to have an arcade switching power supply if what you are building is strictly for MAME
• I don't see anywhere you are wiring up a monitor. I am going to conclude that this MAME build is strictly for an LCD-based cab and you are simply plugging the monitor into a smart power strip. If so, I can see how you left this out as it is not necessary
• which leads to the next statement, if someone was looking for this to build a CRT based cab, they would have to look elsewhere for a beginner's guide
• This is preference, but I would left the smart power strip out and power every non-light device off the power distribution terminals (PC and monitor). Then switch off the cab with some AC power switch. You'd have to set the BIOS to recover after power loss however. IMO, it's cleaner this way and I am cheap

I like your pace. I like your pictures. I like your diagrams. I like how you articulated your thoughts. But even for a beginner like me, I would be asking questions even if I was building an LCD based cab. Anyhow, hope that isn't too harsh. Just honest feedback. Perhaps we can collaborate to add a CRT cab chapter, or remove the chapter with the arcade switching PSU, streamlining it more, etc. I definitely learned a thing or two with your chapters on connecting wiring.

[Token]

Thanks for sharing this, markronz. 

[markronz]

Let me first say again:

In no way am I saying the way I wired things is the ONLY way to do things. It is however one way to do things.  Obviously there are a bevy of great choices out there for parts too.

First, I thank you for your feedback.  You have some points, but have some things mistaken.  Let me comment below on your feedback.

• The coin door lights, the marquee lights, the power for those can all be harvested from a PC's PSU. As such, there is no need to have an arcade switching power supply if what you are building is strictly for MAME

This is true enough.  But I'm a cautious man.  I don't have fancy power supplies, just normal cheap ones that comes with the PC case.  Anyway, yes, you can absolutely use a PC's PSU.  I just personally prefer not to.  Just a preference thing, no biggy.   Even if I did use the PC's power supply, I would still personally use barrier strips.  I like it, and think it's cleaner.

Your next comment.

• I don't see anywhere you are wiring up a monitor. I am going to conclude that this MAME build is strictly for an LCD-based cab and you are simply plugging the monitor into a smart power strip. If so, I can see how you left this out as it is not necessary
• which leads to the next statement, if someone was looking for this to build a CRT based cab, they would have to look elsewhere for a beginner's guide

I patently disagree with this statement.  This guide is independent of what monitor you choose to use.  Whether you have a CRT, LCD, HDTV, LED, whatever else, it doesn't matter.  You can configure the video settings yourself.   Yes, it's true the monitor isn't connected with a cable or "wire" technically, but I don't have to tell you how to hook it up to your PC.  I have built now seven MAME machines and restored a few arcade machines.  The few of my own shown in my signature do have CRTs but I have built others using all the above mentioned monitor types and it's all the same.  What monitor you use does not change how you wire up a GPWiz, or a LEDWiz.  These things are universal and therefore it's my opinion that this guide is still very useful for a beginner's starting point for anyone.

Your next comment:

• This is preference, but I would left the smart power strip out and power every non-light device off the power distribution terminals (PC and monitor). Then switch off the cab with some AC power switch. You'd have to set the BIOS to recover after power loss however. IMO, it's cleaner this way and I am cheap

I prefer to shut down my computers, not just kill the power to them.   I find it works out better in the long run.   So for me, I make my "exit" button do a shutdown in my Front End.  It shuts down the computer and the smart power strip sees that and controls the rest.  For me, I like that, I find it the cleanest option.  But again, there's more than one way to skin a cat.  So you could definitely do it your way too.  Just a preference call.

even for a beginner like me, I would be asking questions even if I was building an LCD based cab. Anyhow, hope that isn't too harsh. Just honest feedback. Perhaps we can collaborate to add a CRT cab chapter, or remove the chapter with the arcade switching PSU, streamlining it more, etc. I definitely learned a thing or two with your chapters on connecting wiring.

Questions are welcomed.  I'm not saying I didn't have to help my friend more on the phone or over FaceTime with questions, but I've tried to add corrections he needed into my document.   But this document gave him a starting point to start to build up the knowledge, simple things like how to splice, how to crimp, etc.  If you follow it literally from start to finish, it will work as it did for my friend.  That said, I'm open to adding more sections.  I don't think I'll remove the arcade power supply instructions as they are a valid option if you're so inclined.

Again, thank you for your feedback.

[PL1]

Two topics you may want to consider adding:

1. Selecting what gauge wire to use and whether to use solid or stranded. (stranded is more flexible and best for crimping)

2. Color code for QDs (yellow = 12-10 gauge, blue = 16-14 gauge, red = 22-18 gauge )


Scott

[P.H.U.]

markronz,

Totally understood. It is feedback. I would try to save as much money as possible when putting these things together. I would eliminate the arcade switching power supply as it is an expense and isn't required for MAME. The PC PSU can handle any terminals that require 12vdc or 5vdc. I too don't have fancy PC PSU's. My PSU's come with the used PC's I am using for MAME purposes.

I like power barriers too. 100% in agreement that it is much cleaner. I guess it is semantics. I refer to them as power distribution blocks as that is what Bob Roberts calls them in his guide. They are also called power distribution terminals, or whatever else someone might call them.

I also shut down my PC off with the FE. The difference is your method has the added expense of the smart power strip. Also, it leaves the PC is standby mode. From what I understand, any electronics device sitting in standby mode will consume 40% of its power draw like this. With an arcade cabinet sitting for long periods of time without activity, that is a lot of power drain. I'd power the PC from the power barrier/distribution block. Your method only requires the power to be flipped on. Shutting it down along with the lights and monitor would be done by shutting off the PC through the FE. But leaves the PC in standby mode. My method requires another step of flipping a switch to power off the monitor and lights after the PC is shut off with the FE. But the PC isn't in standby mode. But that is preference. Some benefits for each method. I guess I way more heavily on saving the cost of standby mode power use.

Regarding the monitor, the monitors I am coming across in my ventures are all CRT's that need ISO transformers. Your guide definitely doesn't have those wiring details in it.

Anyways, you got the gift. Perfectly ok to disagree; it's feedback.

[markronz]

Yep, feedback is feedback and I thank you.  I just want to make sure that my guide is presented accurately.  It's true that I don't particularly have cost in mind when I build mine.  If I did, I wouldn't have illuminated buttons and a LEDWiz.  I guess I'm more of the mind that if I'm going to do something, I might as well go all out.

One correction, my PC is never left in stand by mode. Mine is shut off.  It just has power supplied to it via the smart strip, but the PC itself is off.   I wouldn't like it if my PC was in stand by mode all the time.  I don't play it THAT often to want it like that.

And as for the monitors, I guess I haven't seem any that use ISO transformers where I'm at.  I just use PC monitors, TVs, etc.

Thanks again.

[markronz]

Two topics you may want to consider adding:

1. Selecting what gauge wire to use and whether to use solid or stranded. (stranded is more flexible and best for crimping)

2. Color code for QDs (yellow = 12-10 gauge, blue = 16-14 gauge, red = 22-18 gauge )


Scott

Good idea.  I do have a purchase list I sent him in a separate email of all the components to purchase first.   That might make sense to include in this guide.  Thanks!   

[PL1]

Sounds good.   

Also, might be a good idea to mention tools.

 - Ratchet crimpers (Harbor Freight or PIMFG) -- Details at http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135379.msg1398034.html#msg1398034

 - Molex pin removal tool (Optional -- This one is for 0.062" and 0.093" but it also works with 0.084")


Scott

[P.H.U.]

One correction, my PC is never left in stand by mode. Mine is shut off.  It just has power supplied to it via the smart strip, but the PC itself is off.   I wouldn't like it if my PC was in stand by mode all the time.  I don't play it THAT often to want it like that.

Right, Windows is shutdown by the FE. But the PC still consumes power unless you cut the AC line. This is what I mean by standby mode. Just about any consumer electronics device does this. Your TV does this when your press the power button on your remote. Your cable box. etc. Read up on it.

Knowing this, I setup it up like so when I flick the power switch off, the AC power is cut completely. I shutdown the PC first through the FE, of course. But once Windows is shutdown, I flick the AC switch off on the cab to shut down the monitor and lights. Then no power is bleeding by devices in standby mode.