Help with Star Wars yoke adapter

[greenmanjph]

I need some help badly. I'm restoring a Star Wars arcade cabinet and bought an original yoke off of ebay (it's actually a "Lock On" yoke, but I was told they're the same basic yoke).

The problem I'm running into is that I want to connect the yoke to the PC running the emulator of the SW game (I'm trying to keep costs down, by the time I finished buying all of the original internal parts, it would've been close to just buying an actual running cabinet), so I need a yoke to USB adapter. I saw one for sale at "thisoldgame.com", but it's $90.00 and I would like to try and find something for a lower price. I would also like to refrain from taking apart the whole yoke and having to put a bunch of different parts in it.

I'm attaching a pic of the yoke 13 pin connector.

If anyone has any ideas and or knows where to find an adapter that's not close to $100, please let me know.

Thanks.

[PL1]

Check out the KADESTICK thread in my sig.

It has all the details you need including the yoke pinout and links to TwistyWrist for the connector/pins so you can keep the original harness intact instead of maiming for MAME.


Scott

EDIT: The connector is different from the SW connector/pinout -- if it uses potentiometers for the X- and Y-axes, it should have all the same wires, just arranged differently.

See CN-3 in the upper right on pg 11 of the manual here.

EDIT2: Manual wiring is worded wierdly.     Does that yoke use potentiometers or optical discs?

 

[greenmanjph]

Wow, I should've come here first, for the first time I feel like someone can actually help me with this.

From your pics, they look like potentiometers.

I hate to ask a stupid question, but what should I be looking for specifically in the KADESTICK link? Sorry, I'm kind of new to this type of stuff, especially the wiring and circuit boards. I used to play these games all the time when I was younger, but never really looked inside. 

Thanks.

[PL1]

From your pics, they look like potentiometers.

Yes, your yoke does indeed use potentiometers.   

If you can use a multimeter and solder, you can build and program a KADESTICK interface for this controller.

I hate to ask a stupid question, but what should I be looking for specifically in the KADESTICK link? Sorry, I'm kind of new to this type of stuff, especially the wiring and circuit boards. I used to play these games all the time when I was younger, but never really looked inside. 

You came to the right place to learn how to Build Your Own Arcade Controls . . . interface.   

The things to look for are:

[Extraneous BS removed]

5. TwistyWrist is your friend -- not sure if there is a cheaper source for the connector that you need for the Lock-On yoke

Twistywrist has the molex connector and pins required to connect to the yoke harness without hacking it apart -- please don't maim for MAME.   

6. You'll need to translate the SW Yoke Pinout to your setup by ohming out which wires are which.

[Extraneous BS removed]

That should cover the main points that you need to know.

I'll take a closer look later at the Lock-On manual and see if I can give you an assist on #6. 


Scott
EDIT: Large info and image dump removed from items 1-4 and 6, see tutorial below for the updated info and images.   

[yotsuya]

Easy as 3.141592653589793238462643383279502884197169399375105820974944592307816406286208998628034825342117067982148086513282306 64709384460955058223172535940812848111745028410270193852110555964462294895493038196442881097566593344612847564823378678 31652712019091456485669234603486104543266482133936072602491412737245870066063155881748815209209628292540917153643678925 90360011330530548820466521384146951941511609...

[PL1]

Here's a likely Lock-On Yoke pinout for you to check.

EDIT: Lock-On yoke pinout confirmed and image updated.


Scott

[greenmanjph]

Wow, that's really good detailed info. Thanks, I might have to try it out. It looks much cheaper than the ready made at $90.

[aldub516]

I came in interested... Walked out after all that^^. This is why I love this site, it gets me to learn things I'd never learn or understand.

[PL1]

I came in interested... Walked out after all that^^. This is why I love this site, it gets me to learn things I'd never learn or understand.

It looks more complicated than it is.

Anyone who has wired up a control panel already knows how to do the buttons -- they are almost half of the wiring involved in this.

There are 4 buttons, 2 potentiometers, a frame ground, and a pullup resistor.

Each button has an input wire and a button ground wire shared (daisy-chained) with another button.

Each potentiometer has 3 wires -- 5v, wiper, and analog ground.

Total of 13 wires for this yoke.

If you take it one wire at a time, it's easy.   


Scott

[greenmanjph]

I noticed that you have yoke pins 3 and 6 going to the "ground (analog)" on the circuit board, but you only labeled one ground analog pin on the board, where is the other one for the other yoke pin?

Also, where exactly does the resistor go? I can't really see where it was put on the board from the pictures.

[greenmanjph]

You also mentioned a Molex connector. I'm assuming I won't need that if I'm taking the wires off the old connector and soldering them to the KADESTICK.

If you're anywhere near Jersey, I'll bring it to you and beg you to hook it all that up for me. 

[lamprey]

I had a similar situation, as I had a yoke from another machine that was label as a star wars yoke. But, a couple of the pins were in different spots. I seem to recall the #9 pin being on the opposite side. At any rate, I didn't use a kade controller. But, I've used one of the Ultimarc controllers (U-HID?) and the ThisOldGame star Wars controller. I know it's expensive, but the TOG controller is the best option for plug-n-play as well as it's other benefits.

Regardless of what you use, I'd buy a female connector so you don't have to cut the original connector: just makes life easier all the way around.

Cheers!

[PL1]

I noticed that you have yoke pins 3 and 6 going to the "ground (analog)" on the circuit board, but you only labeled one ground analog pin on the board, where is the other one for the other yoke pin?

The easiest way to connect several wires to one through-hole on the board is to use one wire from the board to one side of a euro-style terminal strip and hook the two wires to the other side.



It also makes it easier to change wiring if you accidently hook something up wrong.

Also, where exactly does the resistor go? I can't really see where it was put on the board from the pictures.

It's under the black heat shrink on the red wire connected to "Vcc" in the lower left of this pic.



Vcc -- resistor -- wire -- E2/B or Vcc -- wire -- resistor -- E2/B (either way works)

You also mentioned a Molex connector. I'm assuming I won't need that if I'm taking the wires off the old connector and soldering them to the KADESTICK.

Please consider not cutting the wires off the original connector.

If you do decide to hack the harness, at least wait until we confirm the pinout on the original.

It will take several days for the AVR board to arrive and by then, we'll have everything sorted out and documented for the next guy.   


Scott
EDIT: Found a better picture of the pullup resistor. (Pic by Le Chuck)

[PL1]

Here are a few pics to help identify the wiring.


Scott
EDIT: Added more build pics.

[greenmanjph]

Ok, I'm going to grab the board and resistor, but I think I'm going to really need a step by step tutorial to pull this off. I don't want to screw it up.

I'm also confused about not cutting the wires from the connector yet. Won't I have to cut them to connect them to the board, or do I have to grab something else to connect it with?

[PL1]

I think I'm going to really need a step by step tutorial to pull this off.

Already working on it.  (See the wire identification pictures in the earlier post.)   

Figured I'd use your thread (and your assistance) to gather and sort the text/links/pics into a decent tutorial then copy it to either the KADESTICK thread or the wiki.

I'm also confused about not cutting the wires from the connector yet. Won't I have to cut them to connect them to the board, or do I have to grab something else to connect it with?

There's no need to cut it apart before you're ready to put it ALL together = finishing these steps first:
* Board received
* Pullup resistor installed
* Board programmed
* Jumper wires connected between the board and the euro-terminal strip
+ Make molex adapter cable (if I can talk you into not hacking the original harness  )

BTW, I tend to dedicate more time to assist people with the attitude of, "Even if I don't do it that way, let's document it to help the next guy."    over those with the attitude of, "Screw the next guy.  Tell me how to make mine work now."   

There are several good reasons to not hack the original harness:
  * Easy to disconnect the yoke for maintenance/rebuild
  * Allows you to use the yoke on the original cab without having to re-re-wire it
  * Molex connectors and pins are inexpensive
  * Future you is going to re-read this thread some day
  * Even if you keep it until your dying day, you won't own it forever -- do it for the next owner

It isn't hard to crimp these pins onto wires and make an adapter.

I did this before getting a decent pair of ratchet crimpers  -- looks terrible, but works fine.



Pretty sure the connector on your yoke harness is a Molex 15 pos Plug 3x5 .062 (part number 03-06-2152) with male pins.

The corresponding connector is a Molex 15 pos Receptacle 3x5 .062 (part number 03-06-1152) with female pins. (part number 02-06-1103)

You may want to get two receptacles and 30 pins -- enough pins for practice and a backup housing if you mess it up.

The idea is to hook it up like the attached mockup.


Scott

[leapinlew]

I had a yoke to USB adapter from the dreaded vendor that we shall never speak of again, which I finally got working good.

I considered this Old Games adapter, as it's the only other game in town.

It was an easy win to get it hooked up. $90 is worth it in my opinion.

[greenmanjph]

Seeing that last picture, I have to say it's starting to make more sense to me now.

First of all Scott, I want to say I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out with this build, even though it's probably a hassle having to show someone with little knowledge how to build this from square one.

Second, I'm going to grab the receptacles and pins, but should I grab extra wires too?

Also, what is the part in the middle in the last picture, should I grab that too?

[PL1]

First of all Scott, I want to say I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out with this build, even though it's probably a hassle having to show someone with little knowledge how to build this from square one.

No problem. 

Writing tutorials is a good way to make the hobby more accessible to more users.

Second, I'm going to grab the receptacles and pins, but should I grab extra wires too?

Your best choice for crimping is stranded (not solid) wire.

22 gauge is big enough to easily work with and small enough to fit perfectly in the through-holes of the AVR board -- great size for arcade controls.

Radio Shack has this 3-color set.

Amazon has this 6-color set.

If that's too many colors, you can try for the Nephasth (Two-Headed Beast) look.   



More suggestions for wire suppliers/sources in this thread.


Scott

[greenmanjph]

I found some 8' strands of 5 different color 22 gauge wire on eBay for $6.00, figure that should be more than enough.

What about that other piece I mentioned in my last post (the piece circled in the picture)?

[PL1]

I found some 8' strands of 5 different color 22 gauge wire on eBay for $6.00, figure that should be more than enough.

Good choice as long as the wire is stranded, not solid.   

What about that other piece I mentioned in my last post (the piece circled in the picture)?

Oops.  Started that reply before your edit.

The circled item is a 12 position euro-style terminal strip. (available from many vendors like Radio Shack, Amazon, Groovy Game Gear, etc.)

Yes, you will need one.


Scott

[PL1]

How to Build a KADESTICK Yoke Interface

Finished tutorial cross-posted to the KADESTICK thread here.



  Required skills:
Soldering - tutorial here.
Crimping molex pins - covered in step #7
Using a multimeter - covered in step #10

  Tools:
Multimeter
Wire strippers
Pin crimp tool (HT-336-FM with an HT-236-2U crimp die for 0.084" pins)
Pin removal tool (Optional -- This one is for 0.062" and 0.093" but it also works with 0.084")
Soldering iron
- Solder
- Flux
- Isopropyl alcohol (to clean after soldering)
- Q-tips and/or acid brush (to clean after soldering)
Needlenose pliers, foreceps, or wire-bending tool
3/32" security bit (to remove yoke cover) -- This set with 33 bits and this set with 100 bits both have the correct one
7/64" hex bit (to remove outer grips)
3/32" jeweler's screwdriver (to turn the terminal setscrews)

  Materials:
1 ea. - MattairTech MT-DB-U4 board -- select the 16 MHz crystal, ATMEL DFU (FLIP) bootloader, and "Headers Not Included" options.
1 ea. - USB 2.0 A Male to Mini-B 5 Pin Male cable (Similar to this one)
1 ea. - 10k Ohm resistor (1/8 watt or 1/4 watt)
1 ea. - 12 position euro-style terminal strip (only 10 terminal positions needed)
15-20 ft. - 22AWG (or similar) Wire -- stranded, not solid
Heat shrink
Mounting feet for board (if desired)
Loop clamps (Adel clamps)
Molex connector and pins that fit with the connector and pins on the yoke harness
- Star Wars yoke = Molex CONNECTOR PLUG 12POS .084 (part number 50-84-1120) with female pins. (part number 02-08-1004)
- Lock-On yoke = Molex 15 pos Receptacle 3x5 .062 (part number 03-06-1152) with female pins. (part number 02-06-1103)

  Downloads:
The firmware for the board - 2-Axis HEX File -- Special thanks to Degenatrons for giving me permission to release a working copy of the hex file for anyone who wants to build an analog stick/yoke interface.      
FLIP 3.4.7 (or higher) to load the firmware onto the board - http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx

  Procedure:
1. Cut/strip/lightly tin a 2.5" - 3" wire and and bend one end into a U-shaped loop.  Cut one lead of the 10k ohm "pullup" resistor to ~1/4" and bend it into a U-shaped loop.



2. Solder the wire loop to the resistor loop (shown below with the end of a wire-bending tool) and insulate the connection with heat-shrink.



3. Solder the resistor and wire between the Vcc and E2/B holes on the board.



4. Use FLIP to load the firmware on the board using the procedures here.

5. Solder 4" wires to the following 10 board holes:

* Gnd (lower right) - Ground (Buttons)
* B0 - Button 1 (left trigger)
* B1 - Button 2 (right trigger)
* B2 - Button 3 (left thumb button)
* B3 - Button 4 (right thumb button)
* Agnd - Ground (Analog)
* F1 - X-axis Wiper
* F0 - Y-axis Wiper
* Avcc - 5v for Analog
* Gnd (lower left) - Frame ground

You may want to use color coded wires.


   

6. Connect the 10 board wires to the terminal strip. (strip shown was cut to 10 positions)



7. Make a Molex adapter cable.
- You may want to use color coded wires that match with your yoke harness.
- Crimp pins onto enough 12"(?) lengths of wire to connect each pin from the yoke harness to the terminal strip.

-- The "14" slot on the HT-236-2U die works well for 0.084" pins

-- Pic below shows a molex pin properly positioned in the jaws of a ratchet crimper with the wire end of the pin toward the slightly wider side of the crimp die, the "ears" on the pin pointing into the U-shaped side of the crimp die and the already-round part of the pin clear of the crimp die by just over a thumbnail-thickness.


- Insert the crimped pins into the molex housing.


8. Attach the Molex adapter cable to the yoke harness.

9. Carefully remove the outer grips (don't lose the springs on the thumb buttons or triggers) and the cover from the yoke so you can check the wiring.



10. Verify the wiring using your multimeter set to either continuity or ohms mode.
- Clip one lead of your multimeter to a wire in the yoke and touch the other lead to one wire after another in the molex adapter cable until you hear a beep (continuity mode) or read less than 2 ohms. (ohms mode)
- Connect that wire to the associated terminal on the strip -- some terminals may have more than one molex wire connected
- Repeat until all molex wires are identified and connected to the correct terminal.

Pic shows continuity from Y-axis potentiometer wiper (red lead) to the corresponding wire on pin 5 of the molex adapter cable. (black lead)



Star Wars harness pinout


Lock-On harness pinout


Terminals


11. Mount the board and terminal strip.  Add Loop clamps as needed for strain relief.

12. Test/calibrate the yoke and interface using Windows gamepad properties.

NOTE: Do not use a game to do this, since the game/emulator software adds more variables.



Troubleshooting
Axis reversed (i.e. crosshairs moving left when the yoke is turned to the right)
Reverse the axis by swapping the 5v and ground wires on tabs 1 and 3 of the pot.

Jitter (i.e. shaky crosshairs)
Jitter can be caused by the pots and/or the wires. (probably the pots)

To eliminate the wires, use a jumper wire with insulated alligator clips or a screwdriver to short the center tab (wiper) of the pot to either the tab with 5v or ground.

If the wires/connections are good, the crosshairs should go all the way to the edge of the box and stay there without jitter.
- Jitter when shorting to 5v, but not when shorting to ground = bad 5v wire/connection
- Jitter when shorting to ground, but not when shorting to 5v = bad ground wire/connection
- Jitter when shorting wiper to 5v and when shorting wiper to ground = bad wiper wire/connection

If the wires/connections all check good,that just leaves the pots.


Scott

[greenmanjph]

Ok, I finally received my final shipment of parts today (I didn't realize that circuit board was so small). I'm going to try that great tutorial to put it together some time this week or weekend.

[PL1]

Ok, I finally received my final shipment of parts today (I didn't realize that circuit board was so small). I'm going to try that great tutorial to put it together some time this week or weekend.

I picked up another AVR board and will be making a dedicated Star Wars yoke interface and taking pictures as I go.   

LMK if there are any pictures you'd like to see in addition to the ones mentioned in the tutorial, or if it looks like there are any steps/details that I've left out.

Before you dig into the build, can you try out step #10 in the tutorial to confirm and document the pinout on your Lock-On yoke. (and maybe even the wire colors)
Lock-On yoke pinout confirmed.   

Scott
P.S. just noticed that you bought pin headers with your board -- you won't need them for this build.

[greenmanjph]

I don't mind waiting to put it together until you have yours done, I'd rather do it right the first time. I wasn't sure about the pins, so for the extra buck I figured I'd take the chance.

I'll check the wiring asap.

[PL1]

Steps 1-4 are ready.   

They cover installing the pullup resistor and programming the board.


Scott

[PL1]

The KADESTICK Yoke Interface build tutorial is ready for review here.   

Awaiting confirmation on the Lock-On yoke harness pinout.


Scott

[greenmanjph]

Sorry for the delay. As I was checking the continuity of the wires, I discovered that some of them were cut. Some looked like they were squished and cut as a result, and some looked like they were cut on purpose (have no idea why). I had to reattach and solder new wires before I could continue checking the continuity.

The pics attached below have the picture of the pinout given earlier, and a table showing the wire color, corresponding pin, position and location within the yoke.

Hope it makes sense. 

[PL1]

The pics attached below have the picture of the pinout given earlier, and a table showing the wire color, corresponding pin, position and location within the yoke.

Hope it makes sense.

Thanks!  Your notes confirm everything precisely.   

Updated the "Lock-On Yoke Pinout" image and added it to the tutorial.

There will be three terminals that get two wires from your molex adapter:
  - Gnd (Buttons) - Pins 9 and 12
  - Gnd (Analog) - Pins 3 and 6
  - 5v for Analog - Pins 1 and 4

For the rest, just match up the wording on the pin and terminal.   

LMK if you have any questions or suggestions on improving the tutorial.


Scott

[greenmanjph]

I'm almost halfway there, I forgot about the crimping tool, had to order one. Waiting for it to arrive to continue building.
 
Couple of questions in the meantime:

Can you post a tutorial on how to load the firmware to the board?

Can you also turn me on to a good FREE unzipping program for the HEX file?

Also, the Atmel link only brings you to the home page.


(I know the wires aren't color-coded, but getting a bunch of spools of different color wires started get a little expensive)

[PL1]

Can you post a tutorial on how to load the firmware to the board?

Already done.   

Step #4 of the tutorial above has the link -- click on the hyperlinked word "here".   

Can you also turn me on to a good FREE unzipping program for the HEX file?

7-Zip, WinZip, WinRAR . . . lots of choices here.

Also, the Atmel link only brings you to the home page.

They changed the download page URL -- updated the KADESTICK thread and tutorial linked in step #4 above.   

http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx


Scott
P.S. Looks good so far other than the Avcc wire being on the Aref pin.

How well did the solder joints turn out?

[greenmanjph]

Cool, thanks for the links, I'll try to upload the firmware this week.

The Avcc wire is in the next to last hole from the bottom in the terminal (that's where it looked like it went in the other pictures) the way I took the picture and because all the wires are the same color may make it look like it's in a different spot.

I had a problem soldering at first (it's been at least 20 years since I've done any soldering work on circuit boards and I'm a bit rusty), and I figured out what the problem was. I messed up the first most important thing to do with my soldering iron, tinning the tip . Once I did that, everything went together no problem.

[PL1]

The Avcc wire is in the next to last hole from the bottom in the terminal (that's where it looked like it went in the other pictures) the way I took the picture and because all the wires are the same color may make it look like it's in a different spot.

Actually, it looks like it's soldered in the wrong hole (Aref = blue arrow) on the board.

It should be in Avcc. (green arrow)


Scott

[greenmanjph]

I double checked it this morning (started to get a little worried). Luckily it was just the camera angle, the wire looks like it's in the right spot.
 

[PL1]

Scott

[greenmanjph]

Ok, I'm having trouble with the firmware upload.

First, I downloaded 7 Zip and then clicked the link for the HEX file, but I can't do anything with it (I've never had any luck with .ZIP files).

Second, when trying to hook up the board to FLIP I keep getting the following error message (in picture below). I don't know what I'm doing wrong.

[PL1]

First, I downloaded 7 Zip and then clicked the link for the HEX file, but I can't do anything with it (I've never had any luck with .ZIP files).

Click on the "2-Axis HEX File" link.

Choose the "Save File" option to download the "KADESTICK Hex.zip" file to a folder on your hard drive.

Use Windows Explorer to open that folder.

Open the "KADESTICK Hex.zip" file using 7-zip. (either double-click or right-click--7-Zip--Open archive)

Drag and drop the "KADESTICK.hex" file from the 7-Zip window to the Windows Explorer window.

The .hex file is ready for Flip to use.

Second, when trying to hook up the board to FLIP I keep getting the following error message (in picture below). I don't know what I'm doing wrong.

I've sent an e-mail to Justin Mattair to let him know that the board driver links on his website and in the manual are broken.

Also asked him whether the error you are getting is a driver problem or something else.   

Hope to hear back from him soon. 


Scott

[greenmanjph]

Ok, finally got my crimping tool today, attached the pins and hooked the wires up to the other side of the terminal. From the tutorial, it seems like there are a couple of holes in the terminal that two wires go into, and I just wanted to make sure that was correct. I attached pictures of the connections (again, sorry about the same color wire).

Let me know when you hear back about the firmware error.

Thanks.

[PL1]

From the tutorial, it seems like there are a couple of holes in the terminal that two wires go into, and I just wanted to make sure that was correct. I attached pictures of the connections (again, sorry about the same color wire).

By "couple of holes" I assume you are referring to the fact that I cut the two unneeded terminals off the end of the strip.

The tutorial shows 10 wires from the AVR board going to 10 terminals that connect to the 10 wires in the Star Wars molex adapter.

There will be three terminals that get two wires from your molex adapter:
  - Gnd (Buttons) - Pins 9 and 12
  - Gnd (Analog) - Pins 3 and 6
  - 5v for Analog - Pins 1 and 4

You've got two wires from the molex adapter going to each of these three terminals.

It sure looks like you're doing it right.   

No word from Justin yet.   

Does Windows even try to load drivers when you connect the board to a USB port? (Do this before you try to run Flip.)


Scott

[greenmanjph]

I seems to try and load the drivers, but I don't think it's able to.

I'm also confused about this part in the firmware procedures (part 4)

"Once FLIP is installed, the DFU bootloader drivers can be loaded.
Install the HWB jumper (or disconnect the pullup resistor) and power up the board (or press reset) to enter the DFU bootloader.
Windows will then prompt you for the ATmega32U4 driver -- point it to the Program Files/Atmel/Flip 3.4.2/usb directory and install.
If the Atmel drivers do not work, you may need to install the signed drivers from http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?module=Freaks%20Academy&func=viewItem&item_type=project&item_id=2196.
Once the driver is loaded, the device will appear as an ATmega32U4 device under Atmel USB Devices in the device manager."

I already installed the pull up resistor in step 3, but the firmware instructions say to disconnect it. Pressing the button on the board doesn't do anything either.