I figure one day I'll need to change the pots, so I guess if anyone has a tutorial somewhere, I'd look at it and file it away for the dark day I need to do that.
Swapping potentiometers on a SW yoke is pretty easy.
1. Either make a note of which tab each of the three wires are on
or take a picture so you reconnect them in the proper order.
2. Desolder/disconnect the wires.
3. Loosen the set screw on the 14 or 28 tooth gear connected to the pot and remove that gear. (BTW, this pic shows an unusual dual pot in place of the original one)

4. Loosen/remove the nut and lockwasher holding the pot to the mounting bracket and remove the potentiometer.
5. Turn the new potentiometer shaft to the middle of the possible range of motion -- if it can turn 270 degrees, it should be about 135 degrees from both stops.
WARNING: Not doing step 5 can result in damage to the gears when the potentiometer stops turning before the yoke hits the rubber bumpers (X-axis)
or the cross-pin (bottom center of pic below) hits the top/bottom of the slot. (Y-axis)

6. Install the new potentiometer. There is a tab on the body of the pot that aligns with a slot in the mounting bracket.
7. Verify that the resistance between tabs 1 and 2
or tabs 2 and 3 is half the resistance between tabs 1 and 3 -- adjust the potentiometer as needed.
8. Without turning the handles or 60 tooth gear from their normal resting position, align the set screw on the 14/28 tooth gear with the flat on the potentiometer shaft, re-install the gear, and tighten the set screw.
9. Gently test the range of motion to ensure that the gears are meshing properly and that the potentiometer shaft turns freely through the full range of motion.
10. Reconnect the three potentiometer wires.
11. Connect the yoke to the interface board and calibrate the interface board.
There are more pics on the wiki
Yoke Rebuild page.
Scott