Fitting T moulding - inside curve

[bobmoo79]

Apologies if this is in the wrong place.....


I tried to install my t molding last night and got 90% around the first side without too much trouble. Around external curves/corners I cut a small section out of the 'barb' to give the flexibility to hug the curve properly. It was a good result.
But then when I came to an inside curve (think the curved side panel at the front, near the screen on a Weecade), I had all sorts of trouble. without cutting, the molding didn't want to sit in the curve properly. so I looked on the net and found that some people cut slits into the 'barb' to relieve the tension, and that should allow the molding to fit the curve properly.
HOWEVER, when I tried it I found the t-molding just ended up with kinks at intervals where the rear had been cut. (see photo). Note I should have rotated it, but hopefully you'll get the idea.)




Do you have any ideas what I did wrong? Or how I could prevent it doing this when I get some new molding to replace this?

Thanks.


EDIT:
I was doing this in a garage when the temperature was probably low. Certainly less than 10degree, maybe as low as 5degrees last night. Could the cold have caused this? I don't really want to waste more t-molding unless I figure out what caused it.

[Malenko]

you tap it in place with a mallet?

[bobmoo79]

No, I pushed it with my hand.
Where the slit is cut in the back is where the T molding has creased at the front. Between the slits in the back, the t molding has stayed relatively straight. I'm thinking i should just have removed the whole back section for the length of that curve and glued it in place. BUT I don't see other people having to do that.

[eds1275]

I cut a lot of slits, like 3-5 per inch. If you smack it in place seating the barbs all the way in, the shape of the wood should define the curve of the molding. Don't fold the molding.

[bobmoo79]

Hi eds, thanks for the advice, I'll try that next time.
I also plan to take the machine and T-molding into the house and allow them to reach room temperature before trying the next side. It should help if the tmolding is at around 20 degrees C instead of 5. I may even try warming it slighty with a hairdrier to make it more supple.

I didn't deliberately fold the molding, it just creased at those points by itself as I was fitting it.

[DeLuSioNal29]

I use a rubber mallet like this one:  http://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-Wood-Handle-Rubber-Mallet-Set-3-Piece-30508/205600805


You can use the curved side to follow the contour of the wood.  Simply turn it sideways when hammering.  Also, you can smack it all you want at this point and it won't change since the T-molding won't stretch.  You need to remove the T-molding that you put down after (from the end point of the curve), hammer it in, then put the rest in after the curve is hammered in properly.   

Good Luck!

DeLuSioNaL29

[BadMouth]

Confession:  I've used hot glue to hold the t-molding in spots on all of my projects.  To keep it from lifting out of sharp inside corners in particular.

Based on appearance, one of these things could be your issue:

Didn't put enough slices in the barb for it to flex into place.

Router slot didn't go as deep through that bend, not allowing the barb to go in all the way.

Slot is filled with sawdust, not allowing the barb to go in all the way.

Always clean your slots and ensure a minimum depth. 

[nitrogen_widget]

I have not yet known the joys of working with T moulding however when working with various types of flexible things that are being difficult I break out the heat gun and gently warm them up to me.

would such a method work in this situation?

[Vigo]

I have not yet known the joys of working with T moulding however when working with various types of flexible things that are being difficult I break out the heat gun and gently warm them up to me.

would such a method work in this situation?

Never tried that, but I never had problems. Only thing I would say is avoid melting the paint on the wood panels when using a heat gun.

[Generic Eric]

I'd suggest prepping the t molding separately with heat before applying it to the cabinet.

[liquid134]

ive found that a rubber mallet is key when installing t-molding.

[Ken Layton]

I make sure the new moulding is warmed to at least 70 degrees so it's soft and flexible. Be sure the groove in the cabinet has been vacuumed out of any debris. Then I tap it in with a rubber mallet.

[Generic Eric]

I suppose if your slot depth wasn't cut evenly, perhaps the router bounced on the side, you could get bulges like that.

[bobmoo79]

Thanks to all of you for your advice, it is appreciated.
I took my t molding into the house yesterday and left it a few hours to warm up (while I was at work) and when I came home it was so much more flexible than it had been while I was trying to install it in the cold garage. I didn't get around to fitting it last night, but I have confidence that the warmer t molding will install with no problems.

I'll do as you all say: use a rubber mallet, ensure the slots are uniform depth and clear of debris. I still have enough molding to complete one side of the cab but will need to order more for the other side.

I'll let you know how I get on....

[mgb]

Just be sure to be careful with the rubber mallet also as they can mar with black marks sometimes.
You can also buy non marring mallets

[AzureKnight]

I'll also ask if that is chrome T-molding?  If so when I just did mine I found that it really shows any ripples put in it by the rubber mallet.  I sanded out my slots a bit extra to allow it to got in a little bit easier after I did the first section.

Another thing I found helpful in doing an inside curve was to pre-work the T-molding it a bit.  Mine was delivered in a roll that would naturally curve to an outside corner (I'm betting yours came the same way).  It spent a few minutes with each piece bending and working it to an inside curve shape first.  that helped a lot.

[bobmoo79]

Yes, that's right. It's Chrome t molding and I guess because it's got a shiny surface it will show any lump and bump much easier than a flat colour would. I left the protective film on for the picture, which is why it looks blue/green.

You're right about it coming coiled up too. I got it from ArcadeWorldUK.
It was coiled quite tight and I had left it like that, taped up, for several days in a cold garage. Then when I needed it I cut the tape and immediately expected it to flex smoothly in the opposite direction. In hindsight it was a stretch too far and you've seen the result. I'm going to give it another go tonight when I get home from work. It's now sitting in the lounge, uncoiled and will be nicely warmed up by the time I get back home. :-)

[bobmoo79]

Just wanted to add that I redid the t-molding on Friday night when I got home and having it warmed up to room temperature really made a difference.

Just need to order some more so I can finish off the other side now.

Thanks all for your help