Building a workbench. Looking for advice.

[vorghagen]

Since my existing workbench is actually an old outdoor setting the inlaws no longer wanted, I've started building something a little more sturdy.

For the bench top I'm using an Ikea Numerar countertop. 38mm thick. Not sure what kind of wood but online search suggests beech.
Legs are treated pine sleepers 200x75mm.
I'll be bracing it with some cypress pine cladding I've got lying around.
Question: What would be the best way to attach the legs to the bench top? I rather not drill through the top if I can avoid it. Would a right angle bracket be strong enough? Coach screw? Wood Screw? Other?

[Le Chuck]

You could route in a boot that through bolts the leg.  That would be very secure and not mar the top but I would have no issue bolting through the top.  With that thick top you can recess the bolts so they're below flush and do two per post.  It would be super easy, very secure, and if you did inserts on the legs you could change out tops when they wear out very easily.  Afterall this is a work bench so it's bound to take some abuse. 

[BorgDog]

Nice beefy legs you have there.  Are you putting any other top support like crossbars between the legs?  If so I would do pocket screws up through the crossbars.  If not, I would definitely go with something that has more lateral support than the little right angle brackets you show, either a much beefier version of that, or heavy duty shelf supports would work nice.  I don't think you need much to hold the top down, the structural integrity of the whole bench is more important.

[Vigo]

The method I have been taught is to build a supporting frame underneath the actual slab. Like in this picture. Then you can just either do pocket screws or even longer screws straight up and through.

[yotsuya]

+1 on using pocket screws to secure the top.

[vorghagen]

Thanks for the advice guys.
Le Chuck, I like the sound of the boot option but I don't actually know what that means. Is there a "for dummies" explanation?
Borgdog, No crossbars between the legs as I was planning to put drawers in later down the track. There will be a diagonal brace on the back side though (material pictured, but longer). Might look into shelf supports.
Vigo & Yotsuya, Never heard of pocket screws before but a google search was informative. Very cool. Would they work with the legs themselves? In addition to brackets/supports of course.

[horizon]

Might be a more relevant search to put "pocket holes" in google.

If you've ever heard of the Kreg Jig, you know what pocket holes are.

 

[knave]

I used strips of 1 x 1 and screwed them to the bottom of the bench top and to the legs (2 sides of each leg). Rock solid.

The 2x4 is just a brace and not secured to the top, though I could have used a pocket hole or just toenailed(screwed) it in if I needed more stability. (I didn't)

Other than screws this bench is made from all reclaimed wood.

[Vigo]

If you are building a bench with accesories, I would also recommend looking into what you are wanting with it before you finish the design. For example, if you want a carpenters vice like the one I pictured, You will need framing/bracing on the front under your slab to mount it to. You might also want to look into shelf/drawer options and clamp systems.

[Le Chuck]

A boot is a open ended box that has the same inside dimension as the outside dimensions of your leg. Then secure the boot to the table top using a combination of wood glue and screws. Routing it in a small amount can add a lot of stability. Probably overkill for this application.

[Fursphere]

Whatever you do, put that bench on heavy duty casters (wheels).   Nothing worse than having a heavy duty bench you can't move without a forklift (or dissembling it).

+1 for Vigo's advice too.    Frame + pocket hole screws from underneath. 

[jennifer]

   Jenn would put the crossboards under the top, But then glue the top to the frame with some subfloor adhesive.

[Freakazoid!]

check here for tons of information on workbenches:

http://lumberjocks.com/

Be forwarned though - many of the benches are geared toward working with handtools that cause significant racking forces on the bench and are designed to resist said forces.

[vorghagen]

Today I bought some 42x42mm timber lengths for a basic frame. I'm planning on using wood glue and pocket screws to attach these to the benchtop then bolt the legs to the frame (pic1). I'll likely add either brackets or shelf supports to the legs themselves for a little more rigidity.
Once the legs are on I'll bolt on a diagonal brace for added strength (pic2, but much neater) then maybe another timber frame to support a bottom shelf.

Any stupid mistakes that I can't see yet?

[yotsuya]

If you build a sturdy bottom shelf, you won't need a diagonal brace.

[bfauska]

If you build a sturdy bottom shelf, you won't need a diagonal brace.

A triangle trumps a parallelogram everyday. I'd do both or just the brace.

[yotsuya]

If you build a sturdy bottom shelf, you won't need a diagonal brace.

A triangle trumps a parallelogram everyday. I'd do both or just the brace.

Unless he's planning on dancing on top of his workbench, I think he'll be fine.

[jennifer]

      Speaking as someone who has danced on a few tables (Dance,Dance) .... The bottom shelf would be more functional in terms of storage. 

[yotsuya]

Yeah, the bottom shelf on my workbench is as solid as the worktop and really helps keep everything solid and together. It's not shifting in either direction.

A brace wouldn't hurt, of course, but the shelf is way more functional.

[shponglefan]

Whatever you do, put that bench on heavy duty casters (wheels).   Nothing worse than having a heavy duty bench you can't move without a forklift (or dissembling it).

In my experience having a bench that can't be easily moved is actually a good thing.  Especially if one is doing any planing.

[BorgDog]

Whatever you do, put that bench on heavy duty casters (wheels).   Nothing worse than having a heavy duty bench you can't move without a forklift (or dissembling it).

In my experience having a bench that can't be easily moved is actually a good thing.  Especially if one is doing any planing.

What he said.  my benches are all lagged to the wall to stop them from moving at all.  That said, if you need to move it for whatever reason casters definitely help, but I would mount them so they could be raised up and the bench set on it's legs for maximum stability.

[Vigo]

I've been looking into retractable casters of some sort for my upcoming workbench project.

[vorghagen]

The idea was to keep this bench in the same place for the next 20 years so I wasn't looking at casters. But those retractable ones look like they could be pretty handy without affecting the "stay put" qualities of the bench. They also look like they could be easily added after construction is finished.

I'll be attaching the legs this weekend and adding a simple shelf as well. Expect photos of crooked pocket holes by Monday.

Thanks for your help everyone. 

[Nephasth]

I've been looking into retractable casters of some sort for my upcoming workbench project.

Ooooo... I need some of those for my sandblasting cabinet.

[wp34]

I've been looking into retractable casters of some sort for my upcoming workbench project.

Those are awesome!  I may get those for my workbench.   

[vorghagen]

Hospital visits can really slow down a project........ but now there is progress.

Didn't end up using pocket screws as I don't have a jig and my first few attempts were, frankly, shite. The legs fit into the frame almost perfectly and I attached them using long wood screws.
The bottom shelf is simply 3 planks of pine laid across the legs braces with cut corners to give a bit more space and to help keep the legs square. Feels solid as a rock and I've even danced on it for strength testing. Very happy with how it turned out. Might add retractable casters if I find myself moving it around a bit.

Thanks for all your advice and suggestions.