The Gameroom Designs CNC Project

[yotsuya]

I can't believe how mean you guys are being to Rick. Shocked, I say, shocked I am at this behavior.

Your just trying to swing for a massive discount when his table gets up and going. At least I'm dishing out worldly advice on urban survival and granny warfare.

Why would I order something from the Great White North when I got HaRuMaNCustoms down the street?

I bet he slipped on some poutine.

[ChanceKJ]

Two words: Coversion Rate.

[PL1]

Let's look at what's more plausible, you got mugged by one of those little old lady pensioners you have out there roming the outskirts of the GTA.

Here's a documentary on the subject. 




Scott

[Rick]

Progress! (Yes, I've regained some mobility. My ankle still hurts like an SOB, but I've upgraded from crutches to hobbling around on a cane. That's definitely not going to hold me back from working on this project.)



I've assembled most of the gantry, and have the z-axis carriage complete as well. (Well, that is, until I noticed that BuildYourCNC short-shipped me two of the aluminum l-channels I ordered. They're on their way, and once they arrive, I'll be able to assemble the uprights.) The y-axis carriage moves like butter. I added some nice, cheap wiring carriages from China to accommodate the wiring requirements, and they look - and work - pretty well so far.

A few "learning moments" from this build, indeed. I realized that I designed many of the movable channels with a 3/8" round hole (to accommodate the barrel nuts) and then 1/4" slider... ...which makes using a 1/4" machine screw a requirement. Yeah, not so smart when the ID of your slotted bearings are 3/8". So, after looking all over the internet and local shops for a bearing reducer that will give me an ID of 1/4" and and OD of 3/8", the best I could come up with were aluminum or steel reducers from China at $1.50 each. No thanks. I'm not that patient, nor am I spending that much on each one.



I went to Canadian Tire, and found some tubing that met my needs perfectly. I'll give it a try and see what comes of it. If it adversely affects the quality of the cuts, or wears out too quickly, I'll know to upgrade to a better solution. (Worst case scenario, I've already redesigned all of the parts that have this issue - so I can always use this version of the CNC to cut replacements!)



Next steps are getting the z-axis assembled, extending the wiring to the control boxes so I can get the hookups ready, and building the base table. I'm excited to get this baby up and running - as everybody knows, it's been a very long time coming, and I'm going pretty stir crazy not being able to produce my arcade cabinets.

[lamprey]

Rick,

I may have missed it, but have you decided on what software you are going to use?

I have a little CNC machine on order (should be here next week) and I'm doing some research on software. I intend to use Mach3 initially as the control software, at least initially. But, I'd be curious to know what you are or are thinking of using as far as CAD/CAM goes?

 

[Rick]

I may have missed it, but have you decided on what software you are going to use? I have a little CNC machine on order (should be here next week) and I'm doing some research on software. I intend to use Mach3 initially as the control software, at least initially. But, I'd be curious to know what you are or are thinking of using as far as CAD/CAM goes?

I've got Cambam to produce my GCode and I'm using Mach3 for my control software. It seems to have everything I need by way of software for control, and I've just used it to test some of my motors. I've had a few questions regarding how to do some tasks, and a quick Google search has given me the answers I've needed.

[lamprey]

Cool!

Thanks for the response and good luck with the build!

[Yvan256]

First of all, I hope you get well, get well soon. /Seinfeld

I added some nice, cheap wiring carriages from China to accommodate the wiring requirements, and they look - and work - pretty well so far.

Secondly, would it be possible to see a photo of the back, especially how you anchored the wiring carriage to your Z-axis? I've added the same thing to my CNC2116 but it's an ugly hand-made hack, maybe if I saw how you did it I'll be able to cut a better-looking method once my CNC is up and running.

[Rick]

First of all, I hope you get well, get well soon. /Seinfeld

Thanks! I'm doing a lot better! (I've upgraded to a cane from crutches, so there's that.)

Secondly, would it be possible to see a photo of the back, especially how you anchored the wiring carriage to your Z-axis? I've added the same thing to my CNC2116 but it's an ugly hand-made hack, maybe if I saw how you did it I'll be able to cut a better-looking method once my CNC is up and running.

Here's a shot from the top:



There's a mount for each end that has screw holes. I've attached the one end using screws, and the end that's on the motor will be attached using some strong foam tape. (I don't know what it's called - it's some foam-like, rubbery tape that holds really, really, well.)

I wasn't able to move the gantry to get a full rear picture, as I've got the room packed with parts for the table right now, which I hope to get to assemble in the next week or so. I'll keep posting pics as I progress, and hopefully the above helps a bit in the interim.

[Yvan256]

Here's a shot from the top.

There's a mount for each end that has screw holes. I've attached the one end using screws, and the end that's on the motor will be attached using some strong foam tape. (I don't know what it's called - it's some foam-like, rubbery tape that holds really, really, well.)

I wasn't able to move the gantry to get a full rear picture, as I've got the room packed with parts for the table right now, which I hope to get to assemble in the next week or so. I'll keep posting pics as I progress, and hopefully the above helps a bit in the interim.

Thank you, that photo is more than enough. I was hoping to see how you fixed the chain to the Z-axis. On my CNC I've added a plastic plate and simply bolted the chain to my Z-axis. It looks like crap so I won't post a photo until I've cut a proper plate. 

P.S.: I see that your low-cost cable chain looks similar to mine and the links don't open at the top to insert the cables. I strongly recommend to have your wires installed through the chain (while you can still keep it flat all the way through) before you go any further.

[Rick]

I see that your low-cost cable chain looks similar to mine and the links don't open at the top to insert the cables. I strongly recommend to have your wires installed through the chain (while you can still keep it flat all the way through) before you go any further.

Good advice! Thank you, sir!

[Rick]

Without further adieu, a video for your enjoyment.

I have completed the wiring of the machine, and have to complete the table and mount the gantry. This video shows the machine moving - slllloooowwwwlyyy - through a simulated cut of a side of a bartop arcade cabinet. (I haven't tuned it for the proper speed as yet.)



Apologies for the quality. I recorded the video on my phone, and then added titles and crap in Microsoft Movie Maker. (My first try - certainly not professional quality.)

[Rick]

Forgive the potato, but I wanted to take a quick shot of my dining room right now:



I totally rewired everything yesterday, as I found some items which would undoubtedly short out in the long run, and will be posting pics of this work when it's complete. I went a little nuts with the braided sleeves and zip ties.

[yotsuya]

What's your plan for dust collection?

[Rick]

What's your plan for dust collection?

I've integrated a separate holder and shoe for the vac - I just need to add the plastic/brushes around the shoe. I have a Dust Deputy and Shop Vac for DC in the short term, and if they don't keep up, I'll be getting a dedicated DC from my local Home Hardware.

[Malenko]

Forgive the potato, but I wanted to take a quick shot of my dining room right now

looks delicious.

[Rick]

looks delicious.

Merci! I'm very excited. Here's some wiring pron for y'all... (Sorry for the poor quality. Once everything is complete, I'm planning on taking some proper pictures with my DSLR.)



I've soldered every connection to the motors, and covered the connections with heat-shrink tubing. Once complete, I used the nylon braiding and some black electrical tape to tidy the connections, and some color-coded zip ties to keep everything properly labeled.

I have three final tasks before running my cutting tests... First, I have to cut some mounting points for the X-Axis chain guides - I have four to cut and mount, and then attach the chain guides to them. (The X-Axis motors work, and I've tested the movement while holding the chain tight in my hand.) Second, I want to wire in some limit switches to the X, Y and Z-Axis to prevent the machine from damaging itself or causing bigger problems. I have an abundance of microswitches, so it's not a hard task to complete. Third and finally, I need to wire in my router and vacuum system.

Once that's all done, I'm going to do some cutting tests, and then I'll be back in business!

[Locke141]

Rick this is looking darn. 

[Le Chuck]

Ref dust collection - a good setup goes a looooong way but not all the way for in-home use.  Can you isolate that room from your house central hvac?  Are you prepared to put in paint booth style flaps on entry ways?

At the CNC in the aDooreit shop where I do all my work we have a great system and when you're cutting you don't see any dust billowing, but every time you remove a work piece there is a good layer of dust.  Especially MDF.  That ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- is no joke.  Everytime I do sign work I come home brown.  Wife makes me take my clothes off in the garage or else it is two days of dusting through the house. 

If you're doing panel work in the dining room - well I just think that's a poor decision man.   

[Rick]

Ref dust collection - a good setup goes a looooong way but not all the way for in-home use.  Can you isolate that room from your house central hvac? Are you prepared to put in paint booth style flaps on entry ways?

There's no inlet nor outlet in that room for the HVAC, and yes, I'm putting up some plastic to seal the room off - much like a paint shop.

At the CNC in the aDooreit shop where I do all my work we have a great system and when you're cutting you don't see any dust billowing, but every time you remove a work piece there is a good layer of dust.  Especially MDF.  That ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- is no joke. Everytime I do sign work I come home brown. Wife makes me take my clothes off in the garage or else it is two days of dusting through the house.

I hear you. I'm planning on setting up a camera so I can 'watch the action' but not be in the same room as the cutting when it's happening. That being said, there's a window there where I'll be planning on evacuating some of the dust in the months when I can open the window.

If you're doing panel work in the dining room - well I just think that's a poor decision man.

It's the only option I have available. I don't have a garage, I don't have a shed or even a basement. I live in a converted two-storey from a 70 year old wartime house... I'm doing the best with what I have.

It is my plan to build a workshop this spring, and I may be doing a Kickstarter/Indiegogo with which to help finance it.

[yotsuya]

Your wife must really love you, Rick. 

[Rick]

Your wife must really love you, Rick. 

That she does.

[pbj]

If you find you need to replace your dust collector, may I suggest a WiiU?

[Rick]

If you find you need to replace your dust collector, may I suggest a WiiU?

You may! My kids actually have a Wii and an original XBOX... ...neither of which get much play anymore. You're absolutely right, the WiiU would work perfectly!

[Rick]

Did some testing this afternoon, with some text. I must say, I'm very impressed with what this machine can do. Here's some 2" tall text, running at a modest 60IPM:



I had to run a couple passes of this test, as I hadn't zeroed my z-axis properly, and the original pass wasn't deep enough. (Now, it seems to be a bit TOO deep, as the Terminator font cut out a little more than I had anticipated it would.)

One thing you can see on the picture above is how crisp the lettering turned out. There's very little tearout in comparison to the holes to the right - those were some of my original tests, which didn't turn out very well at all. I only had an old, dull bit here, and ran it too hard. To that end, it nearly ripped the router mount right off of the z-axis.

I'm pretty proud of the machine, all in all. I've incorporated a home-made zeroing tool, and have an emergency stop as well. The dust shoe is getting a revamp next week as well, as I've got a mounting issue - the magnets are misaligned, and aren't as strong as I'd hoped. I've bought more, larger and stronger magnets to replace them with, and will be reinforcing the z-axis a bit more as well. I will say this - the current dust shoe picks up 80% of the dust from the machine as she runs, and this is simply using a new Shop Vac and Dust Deputy. I'm VERY impressed. The first tests I ran without the vac meant a cleanup of over an hour of three different rooms - dust even made it around the corner to my upstairs steps.

I'm going to post up more pics in the next week, once I've received my shipment of bits from China. I'll probably do more text testing in the meantime, as my current v-groove bit works really, really well and doesn't have to dig that deep for great results.

[Yvan256]

Did some testing this afternoon, with some text. I must say, I'm very impressed with what this machine can do. Here's some 2" tall text, running at a modest 60IPM:

Wow, nice text indeed! What software and router bit are you using? And congratulations on getting your CNC up and running! 

[Locke141]

 

Now that its working how hard would you say it was to do?

[Rick]

Wow, nice text indeed! What software and router bit are you using? And congratulations on getting your CNC up and running!

I used Cambam and the v-engrave plugin, which works amazingly well. I was concerned I'd need to switch out to use a dedicated v-engraving software, but the plugin is very simple to use - so easy, I had it configured within about 10 minutes. (The pic you saw was pretty much my first test. I think I may make some modifications to the depth of cut, so that it's a bit lighter and the letters don't mush together as much, but that's not hard.)

Now that its working how hard would you say it was to do?

It's a constant learning challenge, but it wasn't as hard as I had anticipated it would be. I would definitely recommend anyone who can, to buy their own machine to learn on. That being said, I'm considering building up a hobby 2' x 2' (and possibly a 2' x 4') machine and possibly selling the kit in the next few months. Something that'll be competitive with the existing (sometimes overpriced) solutions out there.

[DeLuSioNal29]

Looks good Rick!   

DeLuSioNaL29

[ChanceKJ]

...That being said, I'm considering building up a hobby 2' x 2' (and possibly a 2' x 4') machine and possibly selling the kit in the next few months. Something that'll be competitive with the existing (sometimes overpriced) solutions out there.

That's a GREAT idea Rick!

[Thestoney]

Rick firstly that looks good for first test , try to get hold of art cam as to me it's very simple to use but its a full package and not as expensive as it first appears. How is that dust shoe working for you ? I'm still ( after 3 different ones ) happy with mine

[Le Chuck]

I use Artcam. It's a lot like my government. It's absolutely terrible until you compare it to anything else, then it's pretty damn good.

Adobe needs not make a version.

[Rick]

Rick firstly that looks good for first test, try to get hold of art cam as to me it's very simple to use but its a full package and not as expensive as it first appears. How is that dust shoe working for you ? I'm still ( after 3 different ones ) happy with mine

Thanks! This is actually "Dust Shoe 2.0" and I have a "3.0" coming this week - as soon as my replacement bits arrive from China. It does amazing right now - but I hope the next one will be even better.

Is there any reason why I should invest in Artcam over Cambam? I'm enjoying Cambam pretty much right now, and it seems to do everything I need so far.

I use Artcam. It's a lot like my government. It's absolutely terrible until you compare it to anything else, then it's pretty damn good. Adobe needs not make a version.

LOL.

[BobA]

Looks like great results so far.  The lettering is magnificant. 

[Mamezilla]

Good job Rick ! Keep up the good work !

[Thestoney]

Rick Artcam cam out on top when I starting looking mainly because you can build the software package as your needs / requirements increase , could be worth a look .

[Le Chuck]

I've heard good things about cambam so if that's what you're rocking and you're happy then stay with that.  Artcam really shines when it comes to working with raster captures and the layering interface is intuitive if you're used to photoshop.  Of course the artcam ---daisies--- figured that out and went and monetized the layering function since 2013 - greedy a-holes.  I still rock the 2011 version because it is a more robust package out of the box and I'm not missing any of the bells and whistles that have been since added.  95% of my work is all simple cut patterns tho (I do the g-code for as sign business as a moonlight gig) so it's super simple work, artcam lets me automate a lot of the processes and get me down to where I'm basically a cog.   

[Rick]

Artcam came out on top when I starting looking mainly because you can build the software package as your needs/requirements increase, could be worth a look.

I'm definitely all for the 'best of the best'. I'll keep it in mind if things change! I don't plan on doing a lot of 'minute detail work', however, this could always change.

I was very interested in Artcam when I owned my Carvewright a few years ago, because the interface seemed pretty intuitive, and very similar to the functionality it had.

I've heard good things about Cambam so if that's what you're rocking and you're happy then stay with that.

It's a nice package, and it's really inexpensive at $149. I can't complain. There's the ability for some quality plug-ins and a good community for support.

Artcam really shines when it comes to working with raster captures and the layering interface is intuitive if you're used to Photoshop. Of course the Artcam ---daisies--- figured that out and went and monetized the layering function since 2013 - greedy a-holes. I still rock the 2011 version because it is a more robust package out of the box and I'm not missing any of the bells and whistles that have been since added.

Yeah, I read that, and that was one of my concerns when I looked at different packages. I'm not one for the whole "pay more for DLC that should be included" thing.

95% of my work is all simple cut patterns tho (I do the g-code for as sign business as a moonlight gig) so it's super simple work, Artcam lets me automate a lot of the processes and get me down to where I'm basically a cog.

I hear you! I actually hope to do some of this as well, but probably more 'direct to customer' work. With the Carvewright, I was making house number signs, but the machine took way to long to do what I wanted to do. Basically, you had to pre-prep the machine with the proper stock sizes, create the layouts in their proprietary software, and transfer it to a (get this) PCMCIA card for transfer into the machine. It's crazy - they still use this system even today.

I just learned a couple of things yesterday... (As well as something very disturbing about my CNC.) On Cambam, I learned to create 'styles', which greatly increased the speed at which I could do things. (For example, I created a style that basically says "cut everything highlighted using a 1/4" bit on the outer path, with a 0.01" roughing template, with a 1/4" depth pass, to a final depth of 5/8", and include 2 tabs per piece". All I have to do is highlight the polylines to cut, and voila, we're set to go. I copypasta'd the code above, made a couple of changes for the finish style, and there - I had a second style for the different pass.)

As for my machine - I looked in-depth at my drivers, and determined that (dammit, China!) the dipswitch settings were 100% REVERSED. (C'mon, China! Who the hell makes their settings "0=On and 1=Off"?) What that meant was, my machine was being fed 2A instead of the recommended 5A, and was running at 1/125 steps/in instead of 1/16 - so, I was underpowered, and under-torqued. OMG, you should see the machine run now! It even sounds deeper and meaner, and damn it if it doesn't just eat through the wood with no chatter from the motors.

[Rick]

Just doing some more testing with my v-engraving bit, while I wait for my new end mills to arrive...



It's a little bit rough around the edges, but I certainly can't complain considering I was running the machine at 120 inches per minute! That design took just over 4 minutes to cut in a single pass. (Pay no attention to the cut-off piece at the top. It's just scrap test wood, and I misaligned my image before I cut it. Noob mistake.)

 

[Rick]

I was extremely excited yesterday, when I received my shipment of endmills from China. Unfortunately, I was a bit disappointed that the 1/2" endmill was TOO LONG to fit into my router. (Now, it's not REALLY too long - I would, however, just have to remove the router from the CNC to attach it.)



I received one 1/2", three 1/4" and (unfortunately) one 6mm, which was supposed to be a 1/4"... ...and I have to say, either I don't know how to use them, or else, they are very, very poor quality.

I've been testing all day, and TRYING DESPERATELY to get a good cut out of these bits. I've run at normal speeds (60IPM), fast speeds (90IPM) and even super-slow speeds (5IPM), but I couldn't get a good cut from these bits. I've cut at 1/8" depths, I've cut at 1/16" depths, but all it seems to do is "push" the wood and not "cut" the wood. I've tried each of the above on 5/8" melamine and 1/4" hardboard, but to no avail. Here's a pic of the terrible quality cut on the melamine:



FINALLY, I went into my toolbox and picked out a generic 1/2" cutting bit (it has a round nose, but not a concern for my testing) that came with my Ryobi router, just to see what would happen if I recut a similar design. Here's the result:



The rough circles - and the "non-circles" were all cut using the endmill bits - as you can see in the lower "large central circle", it's not a circle at all. The bits actually jammed up the machine, making the motors whine, and causing me to have to use the e-stop. (Actually, the standard operation using the endmill bits during EVERY cut caused problems - the z-axis shook, and actually PULLED OFF the y-axis track at one point...)

Check out the smoothness of the other small circles - they're immediately easy to recognize - these were the ones I cut with the other standard (non-China) bit. EVERYTHING is smooth, and the machine didn't have a hiccup. In fact, it breezed through it, and I'm pretty certain it's because of the bit being used. If I had to guess, I would say that the endmills weren't sharp enough, or else, weren't made for cutting wood. (That's always another option - that I bought the wrong bits, ones that would be better suited for cutting metals or composites.) Of course, I'd like to go with the option that they're just bad.



So - while I'm pretty bummed today, I'll have to look at this for what it is, a successful test. I've verified that I will NOT be ordering any more endmills, and will instead, look for a proper bit for my requirements.