Pole Position driver bartop - Finished!

[johnrt]

My driver bartop is by far the arcade machine I'm using the most. And I couldn't completely forget my Pole Position style bartop side panel I did when creating my Sega Outrun bartop (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,139895.0.html). So tonight I made this cardboard model of it. I even have a new spinner and a 6" wheel for it if I decide to go on with it. So what do you guys think? Probably the CP needs a little more work. Maybe make it more alike the original. And on this one i want a real gear stick, so the wheel may be placed a little to the left as it is on the original cabinet. This one will also be a lot easier to build since it's not that curvy as the Sega OutRun.

Well, any ideas and thoughts guys?

[ChanceKJ]

This must happen.

it's the only answer i think we're going to give you.

[johnrt]

I rebuilt the cardboard model. I also made it a little smaller. Now I'm playing around with some CP-layouts. I added a admin-button panel between screen bezel and CP. The buttons turned out a little misplaced, but it's just cardboard. I reallly have to finish this one, and sell it afterwards. I have almost all the parts so the investments will be kept to a minimum.



Malenkos diamond shaped control layout turned out to be a great success, so why change that?

[yotsuya]

You're building it to sell it?

[johnrt]

You're building it to sell it?

What can I say. I like building. 

[Minwah]

You're building it to sell it?

What can I say. I like building. 

I would keep it and put a pot based ~270 degree wheel on your Outrun one

[jennifer]

        That little wheel looks all cute, But doesn't that make it hard to play?

[johnrt]

        That little wheel looks all cute, But doesn't that make it hard to play?

Well, no. I'm using that wheel on my OutRun bartop (actually it's one inch smaller), and it's fantastic to play with. 

[Malenko]

I see that diamond button layout is serving you well 

[johnrt]

I see that diamond button layout is serving you well 

Yes, that was a genious suggestion, made by someone in here...  I think you know who? 

[johnrt]

Experimenting with side artwork for the Pole Position bartop. Staying as true as possible to the original. Although some modifications has to be made. At least when it comes to placement of logos.

[johnrt]

It was a nice day outside today, so I took the opportunity to cut the side panels for the bartop.

First I printed the template in real size:


Taped the template onto som cheap chipboard, marked around the paper, and roughly cut the side panel template.


To make sure the straight lines are straight I screwed an old furniture shelf on the template:


And routed it. The result: A 100% straight line. I repeated that on every straight line.


For the inner curves I wrapped some sandpaper around a maglite:


And sanded the curves.


The finished template:


And here's both my driver bartop templates:


Testing the curves with a pencil:


Based on the finished template I roughly cut the side panels, screwed the template onto the panels and routed them:


And the result:


Finally, testing the printed template with the real one. Now I have side panels that 100% matches my file! :-)

[johnrt]

I really hope this project will be finished:

http://ppclone.blogspot.no/

 In that case I want one for this bartop.

[johnrt]

There's no way I can do anything outside, so today I've only made some of the battens. I haven't glued them on yet in case I have to change something.


And regarding the CP area. I have to experiment on my cardboard model to figure out how I want it.

[Rick]

You are seriously inspiring me to put designs like these in my shop. Seriously, these are amazing.

[johnrt]

You are seriously inspiring me to put designs like these in my shop. Seriously, these are amazing.

Go ahead! If you want any photoshop files or whatever, just let me know. 

[johnrt]

I have made a CP overlay for test purpose. Be gentle, this is version 1. I'm using smaller buttons for View, Radio, P1, P2, and enter, exit.
So, what do you think?


And here's a test mock-up: (note: the CP will be 2 cm wider than this)

[ChanceKJ]

So if you can't get your hands on one of those Pole Possition repro PCB's would you just toss a Pi2 in it instead?

And I'm not sure why, but this build just screams to me that it needs one of those black open cell foam covered race wheels. Or something Like a mini replica from a McLaren MP4/2, Ferrari 126CK or an Arrows-Ford A3. (Call me bias )

[johnrt]

So if you can't get your hands on one of those Pole Possition repro PCB's would you just toss a Pi2 in it instead?

And I'm not sure why, but this build just screams to me that it needs one of those black open cell foam covered race wheels. Or something Like a mini replica from a McLaren MP4/2, Ferrari 126CK or an Arrows-Ford A3. (Call me bias )

Well, no Pi! If I can get a repro PCB I will immediately build a new CP! And I will make it easy to replace the whole CP when that time comes! :-) Until then I'll put in a real PC motherboard and make this a MAME build with the possibility to play any spinner game. (as usual)

[floriske.nl]

Really looking forward to seeing this one progress. ..

... literally unfortunately ...

Your pictures take ages to load over here  at least 5 minutes for this page alone. (Same goes for your outrun topic)

Don't know what type of image hosting you are using but i'd like to suggest finding a better spot for them 

The part I did see so far looks promising though!

[johnrt]

Made som panels today. Damn, I now have two projects going on at the same time. This hobby is really addictive! When it comes to cab-building I'm starting to get the hang of it. This is my 4th bartop. I've learned a lot, and I'm still learning. This cab is the most accurate one I've done so far. But I probably need a brake when I'm done with the 2 cabs I'm building right now. Time will tell. 

Here's today's pictures:

[jdbailey1206]

Love these bartops you're making john.  I would be afraid to play your Out Run or Pole Position.  I get a little crazy with driving games.  I might take a turn to hard and the wheel would come with me but the cab wouldn't.   

[johnrt]

Love these bartops you're making john.  I would be afraid to play your Out Run or Pole Position.  I get a little crazy with driving games.  I might take a turn to hard and the wheel would come with me but the cab wouldn't.   

I wish you all had a driver arcade cab. It's super fun! It's the only cab I'm actually playing on. And I'm starting to get the hang of the Seaside track in Pole Position. I really have to make a gameplay video soon! 

[jennifer]

 

Love these bartops you're making john.  I would be afraid to play your Out Run or Pole Position.  I get a little crazy with driving games.  I might take a turn to hard and the wheel would come with me but the cab wouldn't.   

That might actually be a thing, The handlebars on my Enduro racer were not only bent but the back plate was broke from stress...Apparently that whole cab has gotten to rocken in its past.

[johnrt]

That might actually be a thing, The handlebars on my Enduro racer were not only bent but the back plate was broke from stress...Apparently that whole cab has gotten to rocken in its past.

Well, you know. There's a difference between a full size cab and a bartop with a 5" wheel. 

[jennifer]

     The excitement wont stop at the 5"wheel. Some lead bars in the bottom of that cab might give some weight to that AWESOME build however. ... Or possibly a weighted sub base pedestal.

[johnrt]

     The excitement wont stop at the 5"wheel. Some lead bars in the bottom of that cab might give some weight to that AWESOME build however. ... Or possibly a weighted sub base pedestal.

Ohhh! *Blush* 

[yotsuya]

Apparently that whole cab has gotten to rocken in its past.

If the racing cab's a rockin'...don't bother knockin'! 

[johnrt]

BTW people: How is my english? Is it OK? Do you understand everything I write?

[jennifer]

BTW people: How is my english? Is it OK? Do you understand everything I write?

  A+, You even tricked Jenn with the fact that might be an issue.

[ChanceKJ]

BTW people: How is my english? Is it OK? Do you understand everything I write?

i think we can all agree that mines worse. 

[johnrt]

A+, You even tricked Jenn with the fact that might be an issue.

A+? Well, thanks!! I didn't expect that! 

[johnrt]

.

[Rick]

The view is way more fantastic than this picture shows.

I beg to differ.

[johnrt]

I made more panels today. And also the bottom base. You also see a detail on how the front bezel plexi will be mounted. So here's today's pictures:

[BorgDog]

Nice work, looks great.  I like the bevel detail on the boards behind the marquee.

[Malenko]

no rear shots








































of the cab?


Also, how much for you to make one of those view select circuits for me? I'll pay international shipping, no ---smurfs--- given 

[johnrt]

no rear shots

You funny man! 

Well, here you go: This is a shot from the rear showing the power intake:

Also, how much for you to make one of those view select circuits for me? I'll pay international shipping, no ---saint's minions--- given 

Well. Why don't you make it yourself? It's all there out on the internet. I can help you with links to parts and so on.

[johnrt]

I found some very cute aluminium profiles today. These will be perfect for marquee holders. I also cut holes for the speakers. I'm using the same speakers and grills as I did on my OutRun bartop.

[ChanceKJ]

-1, design does not contain an exhaust pipe.

[jennifer]

-1, design does not contain an exhaust pipe.

  Jennifer gets all confused... Wheres there an exhaust pipe?... +1!

[johnrt]

Nehh... somebody must have smoked his own underwear. 

[Malenko]

Well. Why don't you make it yourself? It's all there out on the internet. I can help you with links to parts and so on.

PM'ed!

-1, design does not contain an exhaust pipe.

Ya know, a tiny bass tube shaped like a tail pipe aint a bad idea!

[ChanceKJ]

That's what I was thinking. On that little surface on the back. Just a small hole with a tailpipe sticking out. Maybe take a torch and age it a bit.

[jennifer]

   WHAT?,  Have I finally gone insane?? Or am I missing something??.... I could maybe get on board with a vent pipe for cooling or something. But even then a screen would be better to keep out mice and such.

[ChanceKJ]

Mice??

[yamatetsu]

Ya know, a tiny bass tube shaped like a tail pipe aint a bad idea!

Ah, c'mon, it's gotta be a double barrel chrome pipe at least 

[jennifer]

   It happens, Those pesky things will get in there and chew wires...And pee, (I think they like the warmth of the electronics) No need to give them an open door.

[johnrt]

If there's gonna be a tail pipe back there it has to come smoke out of it. No way I'm installing fake pipes! 
Maybe I can power this arcade with something like this:

And have a REAL portable racing arcade. No need for electricity.

[Fursphere]

As long as you don't mind your eyes burning from the nitro methane fumes.  Lol

[johnrt]

Does anyone of you guys have the Pole Position 2 bezel artwork? Or somebody knows where to find it?

[Xiaou2]

Your build skills are good.. and I do like bartops.. but I think that the wheel space isnt very good for a 360 degree game.

 Games like supersprint, turbo,  and etc.. requires you to whip the wheel as hard as you can... then let it spin untill the desired angles... then grab the wheel and stop it immediately.    Such a motion on your design,  will end up smashing your hand into the side panel... and possibly get wrenched between that wheel and the cabinet side panel.

 With Pole Positions.wheel... its raised... due to the arms being bent outwards.  Its also got a raised mount, if memory is correct... as well as plenty on spin space.  The wheel outter diameter, is extendedwell past the cabs side panels... and thats the most important.

 I think you should get a 2 or 4way shifter in there.  And an analog pedal set thats either plugged in via a jack... or use of a wireless controller hack.  Certain games play ok in digital mode...but others really require that additional control.

 The pedal set could possibly be integrated into the base. Pull out drawer unit and or a box section that completely disconnects from the rest of the cabinet.

 Id mod the wheel... build or get a better one,  that has a more similar pp or turbo look, and that angled arm setup. Make a raised mount.   Maybe even make it so the control panel hangs over the table edge further too.(depending on if the table is flush faced, orr allows feet to slide under where the cp is aligne.

 An exaust is a cool idea... but probably only if other things are also real...such as real speedometer, tach, oil...etc.
Othwise keep it uniformly 2d, with at most, cab sides that extend in the shape of exhaust pipes, and graphically overlayed.

 Use of under-lit stenciled plexiglass. .. could make some cool effects.

 Vibration shaker motor, as well as bass-shaker transducers would be great.
Optional engine vibration and noises could be added.
A tiny pair of fuzzy dice Hanging under the marquee?
8 ball shifter knob?
Leather covered wheel and cp?
Optional blower fans for speed simulation.. and or air vents for mere hand & body cooling.
Possible optional sound effects.
Headphone jack
Mp3.player mounted inside.the cp... with merged game audio.
Possible surround speakers mounted on telescopic extending pull-out system.
Possible mini sub, and or bass shaker ttansducer..built into the pedal unit.
Replica of outruns sliding wheel shaker mounting plate?
Dual wheel system.. supporting geared pot or optical.. using a d-shaft couple/de-couple slide-lock  assembly..

Finally... a possible stand, extending legs, folding box, or wheeled trunk . Where the main unit is facing  Inwards when closed
Rear tail brake lights?
Spoiler top rear?
Ignition key on/off switch
Mp3 used as the radio... but volume control dial hacked to the speaker amp.
High quality sealed speakers. Ports make awful boomy farty bass.
Tempered Polorized glass in front of the monitor?

[ChanceKJ]

Does anyone of you guys have the Pole Position 2 bezel artwork? Or somebody knows where to find it?

  my GoogleFu must be weak tonight.  I really can't seem to find one at all. Closest I can find are images and I'm afraid it's beyond my ability to recreate that.

[markc74]

This might help 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B2XxpmZ16vfOX2w3ZWU3T1E4dm8&usp=sharing

[johnrt]

my GoogleFu must be weak tonight.  I really can't seem to find one at all. Closest I can find are images and I'm afraid it's beyond my ability to recreate that.

After some considerations, I think the PP2 bezel is quite ugly, so I'll stick to the PP1 one.

[johnrt]

Ok. Not going to quote or address everything here.

Your build skills are good.. and I do like bartops.. but I think that the wheel space isnt very good for a 360 degree game.

 Games like supersprint, turbo,  and etc.. requires you to whip the wheel as hard as you can... then let it spin untill the desired angles... then grab the wheel and stop it immediately.    Such a motion on your design,  will end up smashing your hand into the side panel... and possibly get wrenched between that wheel and the cabinet side panel.

 With Pole Positions.wheel... its raised... due to the arms being bent outwards.  Its also got a raised mount, if memory is correct... as well as plenty on spin space.  The wheel outter diameter, is extendedwell past the cabs side panels... and thats the most important.

This was also one my first thoughts. But the final plan for this is a PP only cab using the ppclone (http://ppclone.blogspot.no/) if and when it's gonna be finished. In the meantime (or perhaps forever) it will me MAME'd. The final build is about 3 cm wider than the cardboard model, and the CP's placement is a little bit raised so there just 5.5cm of sidepanel at most on each side. And you can not compare this to the fullsize cab. Like my OutRun bartop the driving will be a little "tighter".. if you know what I mean. I have also tested the wheel on the cardboard model using the spinner connected to a laptop, and I felt good about it. So hopefully it'll work OK. Otherwise, there's gasolin and matchsticks available. 

I think you should get a 2 or 4way shifter in there.  And an analog pedal set thats either plugged in via a jack... or use of a wireless controller hack.  Certain games play ok in digital mode...but others really require that additional control.

I agree! And when the ppclone is available I will make one. Until then the diamond shaped button-pattern works fine. And I made it easy to change the CP just for that purpose. And analog pedal... well, I tried it, didn't like it, and for PP the only thing that matters is full throttle anyway! 

And for the other suggestions, well, in that case I need a bigger cab! 

[johnrt]

Now I'm almost finished making all panels I need for this cab. And I also replaced the marquee retainers with another type. I made the back lid, but right now it's too tight so I have to adjust it a little. And I testfitted a monitor inside there. I need a bezel to determine the exact monitor location inside the cab. And I need the mandatory lock on the back lid.

Now to some decisions: Should I add USB-connectors on the back panel? Should I add an addtional on/off switch? What about fans? What computer should I install? What kind of PSU? I need to sort these things out. Since the monitor probably will be mounted quite deep inside the cab, there's not much space left. I will however make room for a MiniATX motherboard if required. So the first priority will be to determine the monitor location, then I'll take it from there.

And nothing is glued yet. I usually don't glue anything until I'm 100% sure how I want it.

[DeLuSioNal29]

JohnRT, The quality of your builds are SICK!     Looking great so far!  I can't wait to see this one finished.  Those marquee brackets look perfect!

Keep up the good work!

DeLuSioNaL29

[ChanceKJ]

Why not just put a Pi in there and put both versions of PP on it? I bet you could skin a basic Pi front end to choose either game. 

[johnrt]

Why not just put a Pi in there and put both versions of PP on it? I bet you could skin a basic Pi front end to choose either game.

Will a Pi run PP ok? (I've never used the Pi before)
Edit2: ok there's only one way to find out. I have buy myself a Pi!

Edit: Making it a PP only bartop would simplify the build A LOT! No need for admin buttons at all!

[ChanceKJ]

I figure why not?

Purist will say that a Pi won't give you that original feel. Pffft, whatever.  The new Pi2 should be more then enough to run a few 1970-80's era games.

Skin the fronted to basically give you a choice between both games. simple. done.


Here, this might help...

[jond]

i just have 2 questions what size monitor are you using and where or what do you use for a wheel and controls? is it just a usb spinner whit a wheel attached?

thanks and very nice job

Jonathan

[johnrt]

i just have 2 questions what size monitor are you using and where or what do you use for a wheel and controls? is it just a usb spinner whit a wheel attached?

A 15" LCD. And the wheel is a SpinTrak spinner from Ultimarc with a 6 inch mini steering wheel:
http://www.ultimarc.com/SpinTrak.html

[yotsuya]

I figure why not?

Purist will say that a Pi won't give you that original feel. Pffft, whatever.  The new Pi2 should be more then enough to run a few 1970-80's era games.

Skin the fronted to basically give you a choice between both games. simple. done.

Why do you hate games, Chance?

Have you played with the RP2 and the front ends? Attached a wheel to one? It's not as simple. done.

[ChanceKJ]

  I'm an equal opportunist hater I guess. 

[ChanceKJ]

I mean really, in comparison how hard can it be?? The way I look at it, that YouTube channel is pretty solid when it comes to easy to follow advice. I'm sure the hardest thing would be getting the spinner going and I'm sure retropi has that covered.

Really,

Like I'm probably just gonna buy a Pi to try it out. It looks easy as dirt.  ...mind you some people find advanced calculus easy.  At any rate, I might use one for that future SMB build I wanna do next. 

Also Microsoft is giving away Windows 10 free with RPi2's when it's released. I'm sure we're gonna see a LOT more builds with them.

[yotsuya]

I'm an equal opportunist hater I guess.

 
 

The problem is that the FEs for the PI aren't as community/modder friendly as, say, MALA or ArcadeFE. Once they get there, they might be a better option. I love the look of EmulationStation, but it's closest to GameEx and is best suited for running a bunch of stuff.

[yotsuya]

I mean really, in comparison how hard can it be?? The way I look at it, that YouTube channel is pretty solid when it comes to easy to follow advice. I'm sure the hardest thing would be getting the spinner going and I'm sure retropi has that covered.

Really,

Like I'm probably just gonna buy a Pi to try it out. It looks easy as dirt.  ...mind you some people find advanced calculus easy.  At any rate, I might use one for that future SMB build I wanna do next. 

Also Microsoft is giving away Windows 10 free with RPi2's when it's released. I'm sure we're gonna see a LOT more builds with them.

Honestly, I think the target for those videos are people who want to slap together something that "PLAYS ViDEO GAMES, MAN!!1!". For the tinkerer, it's not there yet.

I have a Pi2. When I get some time, I might mess with it, but other than running older versions of games faster, there's no reason for me to give up the MiniITX and Atom boards I'm currently using. I just found an old build of MAME called FastMAME on an old hard drive, and I want to see what kind of performance it gets on an Atom board.

[ChanceKJ]

But see that's really it for me, I'm getting sick of that never ending burden of software. I mean, ES isn't a JAMMA board 60-in-1, but it's also NOT Hyperspin, (thank Science)

ES looks nice too, and judging by what I've seen I'm quite impressed.

[yotsuya]

But see that's really it for me, I'm getting sick of that never ending burden of software. I mean, ES isn't a JAMMA board 60-in-1, but it's also NOT Hyperspin, (thank Science)

ES looks nice too, and judging by what I've seen I'm quite impressed.

You can make Hyperspin as loud and as quiet as you want it to be. You don't NEED to use every single theme out there. For me, the wheel art is the main selling point. I've done custom themes that don't use loud music, Flash, or any of that other stuff, but the wheel art still makes it look nice.

And you're right, ES looks very nice. PiPlay looks like ass, so it'll be nice to see if they improve that.

[johnrt]

This afternoon I fell asleep on the couch, so I haven't done much. But I made a hole! Namely the hole for the lock on the back lid. Here's how I did that. (Ok, this is getting too detailed, but what the hell..)

Keep in mind that the hole for the lock is not completely circular, but kind of compressed on the sides. Hence the template.

I always make templates now. And then I try the template on som scrap wood. So first I make a template for the lock on some scrap MDF. Then I inserted the lock and drew the center line as the lock can be a little twisted in the template. Then I fastened this template on the back lid, drilled a hole just big enough for the copy bit, and used the router to copy the hole.

And for the inside I inserted some IKEA... thingy...  (see pictures). The result is a lock that is dead centered on the back lid! :-)

[ChanceKJ]

Oooo, clever use of IKEA spare parts. 

I'm sure we all have a bin of random ikea parts to some extent.

[emphatic]

Looks great!

[johnrt]

T-mold slot cut, back door finished. Well, that's it! 

[johnrt]

I made holes for some USB connectors and an on/off switch today. Additionaly I started gluing this togehter.

[johnrt]

Experimenting with bezel artwork. This turned out quite nice in my eyes. It's a combination of the PP1 upright and the PP2 sitdown bezel artwork.

[cw]

very nice blend

[tomstewdevine]

Really enjoying this build.

[johnrt]

I have made the ventilation grill on the top back panel today. This required making a jig. And I think the result is fantastic. /me like!  Here's pics. The last picture shows a 92mm ultra silent fan I'm gonna use on the back lid.

[johnrt]

I'm gonna try the Intel Nuc for this project. Just ordered one. :-)

[johnrt]

Yesterday I ordered the NUC, today it arrived. 

Tonight I've been gluing the cab. And I felt I had to make some reinforcement between the panels on the top. I think I nailed that quite well. I used some custom made wooden blocks and screwed the panels together. Along with the glue I think it'll hold together for ever. I also attached a pic of my NUC. I found out that you can connect an external on/off button to it (http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/sb/CS-034369.htm), which kind of makes it perfect as far as I can see. Well, nuff said, here's the pics:

[BorgDog]

Which NUC model is that, and what is that thing sitting to the left of it? 

[johnrt]

Which NUC model is that, and what is that thing sitting to the left of it? 

DC53427HYE, Core i5-3427U, DDR3 SO-DIMM, HD4000, 2xmini-PCIe, 1xHDMI, 2xDP, USB3.0, vPRO

This model was a demo-unit from the webshop which I got for half price. But it came in a sealed original antistatic package, so it's never been used. 

The thing sitting to the left of it is something called a CD-ROM. This particular CD-ROM contains the installation files for an operating system named Windows 98. 

[ChanceKJ]

This windows 98 that you speak of... is it compatible with my copy of windows 95?

Also, isn't that the exact same model of NUC i'm using in my SuperPlayChoice...  now i have to check...

[johnrt]

This windows 98 that you speak of... is it compatible with my copy of windows 95?

Also, isn't that the exact same model of NUC i'm using in my SuperPlayChoice...  now i have to check...

Are you happy with your NUC? I'm still missing RAM and a SSD in mine, so I haven't been able to test it yet.

[JDFan]

This windows 98 that you speak of... is it compatible with my copy of windows 95?

Also, isn't that the exact same model of NUC i'm using in my SuperPlayChoice...  now i have to check...

IF you need a copy of one of the 21 floppy disks for the win 95 install let me know or if you want to return to win 3.1 instead I've got the 6 3.5" disks for it also (since win 95 got so bloated !! - I mean I can understand they need more than the 8.64MB of install files required for 3.1 but to jump all the way to over 30MB for an OS !! ) - I never could figure those newfangled CD's out so still use the floppies instead !

[ChanceKJ]

Quite.

Lately it sits in a display case inside the controller in my games room. But it's a solid peice of kit for sure.

[ChanceKJ]

Haha. Those floppies are awesome. I'm trying to think of what one could do to even get those floppy disks to work with a NUC. Haha

I remember when we first got Windows 95. That classic Cougar wallpaper, a Weezer music video. It was a sign of things to come.

And then Windows Millennium happened a few years later, pfffft. Now that was a peice of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.

[JDFan]

Haha. Those floppies are awesome. I'm trying to think of what one could do to even get those floppy disks to work with a NUC. Haha

I remember when we first got Windows 95. That classic Cougar wallpaper, a Weezer music video. It was a sign of things to come.

And then Windows Millennium happened a few years later, pfffft. Now that was a peice of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.

Yeah was going through some of the old stuff looking for something the other day and these brought back a lot of memories :

[johnrt]

I remember when we first got Windows 95. That classic Cougar wallpaper, a Weezer music video. It was a sign of things to come.

Ohh... this brings back many bad memories of my first AST computer with 4 MB of RAM (and a harddrive with the breathtaking 850 MB of space!). It took forever to load the damn thing. When I got it upgraded to incredible 8 MB of RAM it kinda worked OK though. I kind of miss those times. Sound and network cards (ISA of course) that you had to set IRQ manually with a jumper... ohh the glory days!

[johnrt]

Cab is finally ready for it's first coat of primer. As boring as it may be, the repeatedly filling and sanding is paying off.

[Malenko]

filing then sanding multiple times, then priming and sanding multiple times, then painting and sanding multiple times.......

the most important and under appreciated steps in finishing a cab. 

[ChanceKJ]

filing then sanding multiple times, then priming and sanding multiple times, then painting and sanding multiple times.......

the most important and under appreciated steps in finishing a cab. 

Agreed.  It's like putting a nice shine on a good pair of shoes. Just takes time and patience.

[johnrt]

First coat of primer applied. Surprisingly good looking result. All the filling and sanding paid off. Just some minor flaws that I have to deal with.

[johnrt]

First video of the project:

[johnrt]

And now I'm almost done painting the black parts (except for the back lid). Tomorrow I'm gonna install Windows on my NUC (I forgot my Win7 Install USB-stick at work).

Side panels willl be covered with artwork, so no paint there.

[BorgDog]

Both of yours looking nice, I especially like the vent slots you made, I'll have to remember that.

[johnrt]

Bottom base mounted, and some stick-on floor protectors from IKEA placed over the screws. I also mounted speakers, power intake, USB-connectors and the on/off button. Here's the pics:

[johnrt]

I'm currently playing with the artwork for this. I had to widen the marquee a little. Maybe it resulted in too much real estate on the sides of the Pole Position logo. What do you think?
As usual you can download the full photoshop files:
http://www.379009.net/polepos-bartop/photoshop/
(3.83GB unzipped, 35MB zipped)

[jennifer]

    I would say the "Pole position" could be made larger by separating the 2 a bit and making the white a bit longer and wider, Obviously then centering it on the checkerboard.... Other than that two thumbs up.

[johnrt]

    I would say the "Pole position" could be made larger by separating the 2 a bit and making the white a bit longer and wider, Obviously then centering it on the checkerboard.... Other than that two thumbs up.

I agree. And I'm right now completely redrawing the whole thing. I'm also gonna check how the same gradient as in the bezel will turn out in the marquee. So I'm making the blue squares transparent in photoshop.

[ChanceKJ]

Side art: smaller Atari logo, larger race scene ?

[johnrt]

Marquee v2: (Here's together with the bezel)

Link to updated marquee PSD file:
http://www.379009.net/polepos-bartop/photoshop/marquee_realsize-2015.03.20.zip

[johnrt]

To avoid vibration from the marquee plexi (the speakers IS right behind it) I'm applying self-adhesive velcro band, well at least the soft part of it. I had great success with this on my OutRun bartop.

[johnrt]

I made the hole for the fan on the back lid today, and testfitted the fan and the fangrill. Pretty cool, and it was a tight fit (see pics). This fan is a PWM fan and since I will not be using a traditional motherboard on this build I need some kind of fan controller. So I ordered one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/181694032917

[johnrt]

Playing with the CP design. Ditching the minibuttons and using regular size admin-buttons as well.
I feel there's something missing still...

[johnrt]

Too much?






Edit:
Without gradient:

[johnrt]

Bartopmania's new forum software has this nice preview:

[yamatetsu]

The CPO should definitely have the gradient, but I would change the color of the text in the gradient to white or something, otherwise it might get lost a bit as it is right now.

[johnrt]

The CPO should definitely have the gradient, but I would change the color of the text in the gradient to white or something, otherwise it might get lost a bit as it is right now.

I tried white and many other different colors. The text just disappear on that background.

[johnrt]

It's getting there...

[8BitMonk]

Great build john! Some ideas for your graphics.

I'd increase the logo text size in the marquee and reduce the red Atari logo to compensate. I like the marquee better blue, the Pole Position text gets lost with the warm gradient since it has orange triangles behind the letters. A gradient from the original blue to a lighter blue might add some visual interest. Example below:
 


It might be interesting on the side art to break out the graphic like they do on the cockpit version and reduce the Atari logo. Example below:

[johnrt]

Great build john! Some ideas for your graphics.

I'd increase the logo text size in the marquee and reduce the red Atari logo to compensate. I like the marquee better blue, the Pole Position text gets lost with the warm gradient since it has orange triangles behind the letters. A gradient from the original blue to a lighter blue might add some visual interest. Example below:
 
It might be interesting on the side art to break out the graphic like they do on the cockpit version and reduce the Atari logo. Example below:

Thanks! That's very interesting. You surely took some time on this. Look like you even downloaded and edited the photoshop file. I like the blue gradient! I will try that. Thanks again! 

[ChanceKJ]

8Bit's side art is SICK!

That's exactly what I was thinking!

[Malenko]

so weird to see red gas and green brake.

[Rick]

so weird to see red gas and green brake.

Maybe Johnrt's Australian?

[johnrt]

so weird to see red gas and green brake.

Never mind that.  At the end it will be corrected. 

[8BitMonk]

Thanks! That's very interesting. You surely took some time on this. Look like you even downloaded and edited the photoshop file. I like the blue gradient! I will try that. Thanks again! 

Just a few minutes actually, I do it for a living so it's pretty simple when you have the source files and right tools.

If you use the sideart idea I'd add back the b/w checkers somewhere. Maybe sub out the thin blue and red stripes with a stripe of checkers that is about the width of them combined. Or maybe replace the gray block area with checkers. 

[ChanceKJ]

so weird to see red gas and green brake.

Maybe Johnrt's Australian?

...or from Edmonton.

[Superfrog]

Great build john! Some ideas for your graphics.

I'd increase the logo text size in the marquee and reduce the red Atari logo to compensate. I like the marquee better blue, the Pole Position text gets lost with the warm gradient since it has orange triangles behind the letters. A gradient from the original blue to a lighter blue might add some visual interest. Example below:
 


It might be interesting on the side art to break out the graphic like they do on the cockpit version and reduce the Atari logo. Example below:

I really dig this artwork 

[johnrt]

I tested the artwork on the cab tonight. I haven't done anything to the side art yet, but I will. I have miscalculated the size of the CP. The artwork is 19 cm deep, but the CP is only 18 cm deep. Well well, not a big deal, I just have to redesign the CP artwork a little. Additionaly I made the monitor mount and testfitted the monitor inside the cab. It turned out quite well I think.

The monitor is an old HP Compaq of some sort which I got from a flee marked for almost nothing. It had a non-standard 12V power plug which I removed and then soldered 2 wires directly on the PCB. Now I need a decent 12V power supply for the monitor, the marquee LED-strip and some other electronic gizmos. Nuff said, here's today's pics:

[8BitMonk]

Looks good, I like the blue better. I prefer the marquee text a little bigger and red Atari smaller but not bad as is. The way you have it is truer to the proportions of the original logos.

[johnrt]

Looks good, I like the blue better. I prefer the marquee text a little bigger and red Atari smaller but not bad as is. The way you have it is truer to the proportions of the original logos.

I just made the changes to the gradient in a hurry and then printed it out. I'm gonna follow your advice and make the red Atri logo smaller and the rest bigger. At least I'm gonna try that and see what it looks like.

[johnrt]

I need some advices here.

1. I'm done priming the back lid. Should I paint the back lid white? It really looks kinda cool.


2. Any idea for what to use around the inner monitor bezel? Some foam or maybe card board covered with black felt? Something easy to cut and adapt.

[yamatetsu]

Should I paint the back lid white? It really looks kinda cool.

Yep.

Any idea for what to use around the inner monitor bezel? Some foam or maybe card board covered with black felt? Something easy to cut and adapt.

Here's what I did :

I made a bezel. After having read the $2 cardboard bezel thread somewhere in this forum, I wanted to do a version without all the measuring. My take on this :

- I need thick cardboard, thin black cardboard and doubletape

- Get the screen measurements, mark the rectangle on the thick cardboard and cut it out

- mark the rectangle on the black cardboard with a pencil

- make a second rectangle, each side 3 cm smaller

- cut the smaller rectangle out
 
- make diagonal lines from the corner points of the small rectangle to those of the larger rectangle

- Cut along the lines

- now I have four 'lips' that I can wrap around the thick cardboard

- put doubletape on both sides of the thick cardboard and the space between them

- if I put the black cardboard on the thick cardboard and wrap it around it, the corners will not be covered in black because of the diagonal cuts. To solve this, I simply cut out four small strips of black cardboard and place them on the corners. They will be held in place by the rest of the cardboard.

Some pics :

The thick cardboard + doubletape + four corner strips



The back side of the black cardboard, you can see one of lips sticking up on the left



The finished bezel



And the bezel under the glass

The thick cardboard is the bezel in your case. You basically just put double tape on it, wrap it in black cardboard and put black strips in the corners.

[johnrt]

The idea is to make a bezel like this:

[yamatetsu]

Oh. In that case, have a look at the $2 cardboard bezel. Maybe you can adapt it. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,17175.0.html

[johnrt]

Not much going on. I decided to ditch the old HP Compaq monitor. The picture was not good! I'm using a Samsung instead. So I had to make some brackets.

[ARTIFACT]

This is amazing! I want to make a bar too driver cab now....

[johnrt]

Power outlet mounted. And I'm trying to use the shortest cables possible for everything.

[ChanceKJ]

  briliant

[johnrt]

I have finally nailed the damn bezel! I made it out of 4mm plywood. Tomorrow I'm gonna buy myself some black felts and glue it on the inside. I think that will turn out nice in the end.

In other news: Today I FINALLY finished the Suzuka track in PP2! That was the last track I haven't yet finished.

[BorgDog]

Awesome work on the bezel!

On a slightly related note, I've been meaning to ask what all games you play on your Outrun cab, and how is your button layout working for you?  Anything you would change?  I ask as I plan on a future theft of the build for my own driver.. only smaller

[johnrt]

Awesome work on the bezel!

On a slightly related note, I've been meaning to ask what all games you play on your Outrun cab, and how is your button layout working for you?  Anything you would change?  I ask as I plan on a future theft of the build for my own driver.. only smaller

Well, I have a lot of games installed. But as usual I only play a few. PP1 and 2, OutRun and Virtua Racing is my favourites. Two of them are 270 degrees wheel games, but I think they work fantastic with the 360 spinner. I also TRY to play Arkanoid, but I find that game too hard!

The diamond shaped button pattern works like a charm. In fact it works so well, that I have ditched the pedals I initially meant to use. I find the gameplay very satisfying on my OutRun bartop, and I still play it several times a day.

I have a Radio-button on my CP (for a couple of games that require this). I would ditch the Radio-button next time. My sequential View-button also works like a charm. Well, I am quite happy with my driver bartop, and it IS my favourite arcade so far, and the only one I'm actually playing!

[BorgDog]

Thanks for the feedback John.  I was thinking of making my own shifter that would essentially hit two buttons and would operate the same as yours, Hi and Lo, do you think that would work if it was just to the right of the gas brake buttons?  I'm sure I'll do a mock up when the time comes.

[johnrt]

Thanks for the feedback John.  I was thinking of making my own shifter that would essentially hit two buttons and would operate the same as yours, Hi and Lo, do you think that would work if it was just to the right of the gas brake buttons?  I'm sure I'll do a mock up when the time comes.

I've been thinking about the same thing myself. But it won't work in MAME without detecting the high/low state. And I don't know how to do that. If I could figure it out, I'd make some electronics to communicate with MAME. Another option is to compile a MAME version yourself that supports a 2-button High/Low shifter.

[BorgDog]

Thanks for the feedback John.  I was thinking of making my own shifter that would essentially hit two buttons and would operate the same as yours, Hi and Lo, do you think that would work if it was just to the right of the gas brake buttons?  I'm sure I'll do a mock up when the time comes.

I've been thinking about the same thing myself. But it won't work in MAME without detecting the high/low state. And I don't know how to do that. If I could figure it out, I'd make some electronics to communicate with MAME. Another option is to compile a MAME version yourself that supports a 2-button High/Low shifter.

hmmm, I guess I'm confused, that's what I thought you were running, although I see they are clearly labeled gear up and gear down.  Guess I need to actually research the games in question before I start asking more questions.

[johnrt]

hmmm, I guess I'm confused, that's what I thought you were running, although I see they are clearly labeled gear up and gear down.  Guess I need to actually research the games in question before I start asking more questions.

There's a difference. Some games have more than 2 gears, hence the gear up and gear down button. But you will also find that the topmost button says LOW/HIGH/(GEAR DOWN). That button either Gear down when more than 2 gears or shifts between High/Low when 2 gears. Did that make sense?

[BorgDog]

There's a difference. Some games have more than 2 gears, hence the gear up and gear down button. But you will also find that the topmost button says LOW/HIGH/(GEAR DOWN). That button either Gear down when more than 2 gears or shifts between High/Low when 2 gears. Did that make sense?

Yes, perfect sense, thanks for clarifying.

[johnrt]

This turned out to be the mother of all bezels! (well, if not the mother, then at least the stepmother). I'm very happy with the outcome. The felt is pitch black and non-reflective, so it's a perfect material for monitor bezels, at least these kinds of monitor bezels. I think we need to use more felt in our builds! :-)

[johnrt]

I think I nailed the CP. I just ended up with two versions. Which one?





And without buttons:

[edekoning]

I really like the top one, but you have to get the buttons dead center in those rings, otherwise it will not look so good

[bfauska]

Bottom one. The button group oval seems less busy than the individual outlines.

[ChanceKJ]

Bottom one. The button group oval seems less busy than the individual outlines.

...you have to get the buttons dead center in those rings, otherwise it will not look so good

Agreed on both counts.

[Malenko]

The diamond shaped button pattern works like a charm. In fact it works so well, that I have ditched the pedals I initially meant to use.

It makes me really happy that the idea has worked out so well for you! I'm still in the planning stages of my bartop racer and yours are such an inspiration; I need to make the cab worthy of the camerea circuit I got from you


That bezel is genius, and I was going to suggest felt then I scrolled down and saw thats what you used 
Might be too late to suggest, but could you move the enter exit buttons to the top of the cab or something and off the CP? Then you'd only have 2 buttons above the diamond, just seems crowded. Also, I like the oval better than the "individual circles"

[johnrt]

That bezel is genius, and I was going to suggest felt then I scrolled down and saw thats what you used 
Might be too late to suggest, but could you move the enter exit buttons to the top of the cab or something and off the CP? Then you'd only have 2 buttons above the diamond, just seems crowded. Also, I like the oval better than the "individual circles"

Nothing is too late. What if I ditch the Enter-button (I don't really need that afterall)? Then there will be 3 buttons there instead of 4. I'll try it. And the gradient is to be blue, not orange.

[johnrt]

Today I received the FAN-controller I ordered from ebay. This fan is REALLY silent! I have to concentrate pretty hard to hear it. The FAN controller also have a temperature censor and a audio buzzer if the temperature get too high. Link to FAN controller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/181694032917

I have also ordered a couple of delay circuits with adjustable delay to control the power for the monitor when arcade is turned on: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161330097657
(Initially I planned to make these circuits myself, but it's actually WAY cheaper to buy them from ebay.)

[BorgDog]

I have also ordered a couple of delay circuits with adjustable delay to control the power for the monitor when arcade is turned on: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161330097657
(Initially I planned to make these circuits myself, but it's actually WAY cheaper to buy them from ebay.)

OK, so I "think" I understand what this does, but would you mind do a little explanation/wiring diagram for us electrically challenged?  I believe I may want this for past and future projects.

Thanks.

[johnrt]

OK, so I "think" I understand what this does, but would you mind do a little explanation/wiring diagram for us electrically challenged?  I believe I may want this for past and future projects.

Wiring is explained here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251347657989
(Same circuit, only more expensive)

And here is another more advanced version: http://www.ebay.com/itm/360836715291

[BorgDog]

Thanks John, so basically it can be used to make your own smart power strip right? 

[johnrt]

Thanks John, so basically it can be used to make your own smart power strip right?

Yes. If you by "Smart" mean Delayed.

[johnrt]

And now I found a circuit I can use with my NUC to let the NUC control external power sources: http://www.ebay.com/itm/391036318137
I also ordered one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111607956129
And here's how to connect it:

[johnrt]

And here's my latest CPO:
(I think the buttons and wheel needs to be moved more to the right)

[johnrt]

I have spent the evening redrawing this damn thing in Photoshop. I think this is it:

[Malenko]

I like it! 

[jdbailey1206]

Better to be unhappy with it on the screen and being able to rework it than be unhappy with it applied to the cab. 

[yamatetsu]

Any chance of getting a button with the ESC / Exit text on it ? Two buttons with icons on them and a blank one with a text next to it in a row look a bit weird to me.

[johnrt]

Any chance of getting a button with the ESC / Exit text on it ? Two buttons with icons on them and a blank one with a text next to it in a row look a bit weird to me.

That'd be swell! Anyone knows? It HAS to be concave buttons.

[Malenko]

Any chance of getting a button with the ESC / Exit text on it ? Two buttons with icons on them and a blank one with a text next to it in a row look a bit weird to me.

That'd be swell! Anyone knows? It HAS to be concave buttons.

either vinyl sticker or relocate the exit button to the back of the cab and only have 2 buttons there    or make exit 1p+2p ?

[johnrt]

either vinyl sticker or relocate the exit button to the back of the cab and only have 2 buttons there    or make exit 1p+2p ?

This is what I'm gonna do: I'm gonna ditch the "Esc" text and somehow label the button itself.

Thanks for the inputs guys! You rock! 

Edit: And here's the "final" CPO:

[johnrt]

When testing the artwork I found that the View-button were placed wrong (it felt unatural), so I had to flip the View-button and the Credit-button.







And I made a LED strip for the marquee:

[johnrt]

Using a template and the router I made the button holes in my CP today. I'm gonna do a mock-up of the entire build tomorrow. And maybe make it playable. I'm still missing some electronic gizmos to complete it, but I possess the PC, the iPac, buttons and the spinner.

All holes are marked on the underside, and a 19mm hole is drilled for the copy bit:


Template is screwed on the back side:


Routing the holes from the top:


And the finished result:


For the credit button I made a square hole. This makes it possible to mount it in low profile:

[shrunkenmaster]

This is excellent! Thought I'd mention Ultimarc's U-HID Nano - it can detect high/low gear changes when you set the appropriate pin to 'pulse' mode. Might be worth looking into if anyone else is planning a racer. I used one in a Power Drift cab, works really well.

[BorgDog]

Looking great John!

Thought I'd mention Ultimarc's U-HID Nano - it can detect high/low gear changes when you set the appropriate pin to 'pulse' mode. Might be worth looking into if anyone else is planning a racer. I used one in a Power Drift cab, works really well.

Thanks for the info shrunkenmaster, I just read through Ultimarc's site and think I understand how this would work, but do you happen to have a link to an implementation of this?  Thanks

[johnrt]

This is excellent! Thought I'd mention Ultimarc's U-HID Nano - it can detect high/low gear changes when you set the appropriate pin to 'pulse' mode. Might be worth looking into if anyone else is planning a racer. I used one in a Power Drift cab, works really well.

The SpinTrak spinner actually seems to come with the u-hid nano. I'm very curious about this... Questions needs to be asked...

[shrunkenmaster]

Don't want to get off topic on the thread, suffice to say you could always email Andy at Ultimarc with any questions, he's a top fella. The Nano was enough to do my Power Drift - wheel, 2 pedals, gear shift hi/lo, start and credit switches. It's pretty easy to set up.

[johnrt]

Long time since last update. There's been too much work and way too little time for cab-building lately. Just wanted to let you guys know that the project is still going strong. Here's a pic of the electronic gizmos that goes in to this cab. From left to right: The Fan controller, the iPac, a delay circuit  for powering on the monitor and such, a 5V isolation module for powering on the rest of the electronics from the NUC and a PWM LED dimmer for the marquee.


In other news: While I was on a work-related trip to Oslo we tried the zip-line in the Holmenkollen ski jumping hill (http://kollensvevet.no/). A 5 on a cool'o'meter ranging from 1 to 10. 

[yotsuya]

Holy crap!!! (you decide what to apply that comment to!)

[ChanceKJ]

Cool!  They should really set one of these up at the jumps here in Calgary, I'm not really sure they can even use these ones anymore because the landing is too short.   

[johnrt]

Cool!  They should really set one of these up at the jumps here in Calgary, I'm not really sure they can even use these ones anymore because the landing is too short.   

The descent was controlled by a guy on the top with a braking mechanism. Like controlling a bicycle. Because of fog (I was the last one allowed down that day), the guy on top didn't see the landing platform properly, so I had too much speed at the end, crashed in the landing block and was thrown back several meters. But nothing dramatic.

Come to think of it: You really have to be more than a little crazy when you voluntarily run down these hills. Here's the norwegian world record holder, Anders Fannemel earlier this year:

[ChanceKJ]

Sweetjesus!

You Northern Europeans and your freakish control of skis and snow. Now all you need to do is learn how to play hockey  

[johnrt]

Now all you need to do is learn how to play hockey  

We have outsourced that to our neighbour country, Sweden. 

[ChanceKJ]

Now all you need to do is learn how to play hockey  

We have outsourced that to our neighbour country, Sweden. 

...Yeah, i hope you can still get your money back on that one.

[emphatic]

Hey! 

[ChanceKJ]

Hey! 

Lidstrom sucked, Forsberg sucked, and both the Sedin sisters suck. 







( I'm totally just messing with you )

[emphatic]

I don't care about sports, so you ain't got nothing on me.

[johnrt]

Today I made a little case for some of the electronic gizmos. It turned out pretty nice. Now I'm just waiting for some smaller parts to finish this cab.

[johnrt]

The CP is wired and my electronics box is done:

[johnrt]

The bartop is now playable. I'm still missing some minor parts but everything is wired up and working. All I need now is the artwork and the plexi. BUT!!! There's an issue: I think the wheel (CP) should be a tad steeper. My OutRun bartop's CP is a litttle steeper, and I feel it's more comfortable. The bad news is that it's A LOT of work to change this. The front panel is glued in place, so I'm not sure if it's worth doing anything about it. It does play well, and some spinner games feels better. I don't know...


Here's a pic from the drivers view:


I made a mounting bracket for the NUC from some 8mm lexan:


A detailed view. I drilled some holes and mounted spacers to help the airflow into the NUC:


And here's the back:


A little comparison between the wheel positions on my OutRun bartop and this one:

[DeLuSioNal29]

Nice!

[Peabo]

Where are those USB connectors from?

Love your builds.  I'm thinking a driver bartop is in my future...

[PL1]

Where are those USB connectors from?

They are Neutrik "NAUSB-W-B" feedthrus -- lots of vendors including Allied Electronics and Mouser carry them.


Scott

[Peabo]

Where are those USB connectors from?

They are Neutrik "NAUSB-W-B" feedthrus -- lots of vendors including Allied Electronics and Mouser carry them.


Scott

Thanks!

[emphatic]

Very nice!

[johnrt]

Guess what? All the poycarbonate is cut, and tonight I'm ordering the artwork. Tonight I have tested the artwork just to make sure that it'll fit. The cab is pretty much done in the other areas. The next pictures will be of a complete bartop.

Regarding the polycarbonate: I went by a shop nearby my work to buy a small sheet to complete my arcades. Once I told them what I was gonna use it for and showed some pics, they GAVE me the sheets! They thought it was the coolest thing. 

[ChanceKJ]

Haha! Karma for sending me those counters. 

[johnrt]

The cab is 100% finished. Tonight I applied the artwork and the T-molding. I'm very happy with the result. I will upload pics and a video on sunday. :-)

[DeLuSioNal29]

Can't wait to see it!  Congrats!

[johnrt]

So here it is. The Pole Position bartop! I think it turned out quite nice. This is probably my last bartop build. (Well, who knows...)

Here's pics and videos:

[emphatic]

Beautiful! 

[dmckean]

Still missing the Esc button sticker.

[johnrt]

Still missing the Esc button sticker.

I know... 

[SpaceHedgehog]

Well that turned out rather nicely to say the least 

Beautiful, and you've ended up with a lovely pair 

[Malenko]

You make the best bartops, truly inspirational work my brother. 

[vwalbridge]

Nice and clean bartop. Artwork is very well done and I liked your use of acrylic on the inside. Also, good use for an Intel NUC. Great little computers for bartops right?

Great work. 

[yamatetsu]

Nicely done as usual 

I can't find it in the 'completed projects' thread though ... 

[ChanceKJ]

<Insert Obligatory Comment of Congratulations With Over Use of Smilies Here>


  love it.

[Superfrog]

Great end result John 

I thought after the OutRun bartop you wouldn't top that one, but you did it fantastic 

Never say never again 

[ChanceKJ]

...Never say never again

Don Bluth FTW.   

[DeLuSioNal29]

Beautiful work. Just flawless. Congrats!

DeL

[crispux3]

Hi, I have a quick question for the designer as well as anyone who has followed the plans and built this bartop: Do you experience finger cramping on your right hand from extended play sessions?

I'm thinking about following these plans for my first ever bartop build. I have everything needed to do it, but just need to put it together. From some of the videos, it looks like your fingers and/or wrist would begin to cramp with extended play. Is this the case?

Thanks for any and all answers, I appreciate it.

[johnrt]

Hi, I have a quick question for the designer as well as anyone who has followed the plans and built this bartop: Do you experience finger cramping on your right hand from extended play sessions?

Actually: Yes! You may add an additional foot pedal (button) for the gas. Because the finger cramping is caused by constantly pushing one button over some time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[johnrt]

Hi, I have a quick question for the designer as well as anyone who has followed the plans and built this bartop: Do you experience finger cramping on your right hand from extended play sessions?

Actually: Yes! You may add an additional foot pedal (button) for the gas. Because the finger cramping is caused by constantly pushing one button over some time.

Edit: That being said, my driver bartops is by far the arcades I play the most!

[crispux3]

Hi. I downloaded the plans (but it seems the server is broken or something for your other plans?), and was just wondering on the side_panel_cut_template what one grid block equaled in terms of measurement? 1cm?

Also, what is the best way of printing this out?

Thanks.

[yamatetsu]

johnrt has left the forum and taken his pictures (and, apparently, his plans) with him. So you probably will have to figure these things out by yourself. As for the printing, I would tell the graphics program to print in tiles, so that you get a bunch of A4 sheets that you can tape together. If it turns out to be the correct size, you can take the file to a printshop and have them print it on one sheet of paper.

[jennifer]

    Not sure of what size your looking at there or what your budget constraints are... But A 52inch plot cut is what I use and its been wonderful, It will cut vector templates like a dream ensuring correct size right from a pdf. And will pre score your sticker just like some high end sticker set, All from your kitchen table.