Hybrid Full Size Coctail Arcade/FPin Table w/ 256 points multitouch (Finnished)

[Jin2k9]

I more or less finished this project a few moths ago. Its kind of a hybrid Arcade/Mame/Future Pinball with 3D emulation full size living room table with 256 point simultaneous Multi-touch points. It currently runs Win 8.1, OSX 10.9, Ubuntu and Android.

Screen saver/Idle mode with multi touch


Vertical game selection menu


Galaga running


Full side view


Joypanel and coin chute view. Insert Coin


Splitscreen view for horizontal games



Top view


Hyperpin example


Hearthstone running with multitouch


Multitouch Air hockey =P


OSX


Win 8.1


Android


Inside the table



I might do a more in depth building posts on this project later on. In the meantime here is a couple of videos you guys can check out.

Full mame and multi touch demo
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lfdrxbgfkokrbk7/Multitouch-Arcade-Table-Demo.mp4?dl=0

Future pinball with 3D emulation and ir tracking (BAM) (IR tracking activates around 30 sec into the video.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8p1bqhii1gu46m0/Tron-Pinball-3D-Test.MP4?dl=0

[menace]

Clean and classy and BIG!  Nicely done!  Its a shame your smoking on it--all your nice white controls will turn yellow

[yotsuya]

Nice, simple design. Love the fact you didn't go all gaudy on it and add a bunch of useless stuff. And I think the cigs and ashtrays are strangely a nice touch.

[Drnick]

At least he is using an ashtray and not just hanging the smokes off the side of the machine.  Very nice clean work,  A detailed log of the build would be appreciated I am sure.

[talkgeek]

Very nice, excellent aesthetics and execution 

Definitely keen to find out the details behind the build

Well Done!

[emphatic]

Very nice!

[thomas_surles]

Let's see a video demo!

[arno]

Nice work!

[mvolke1]

That's a sexy beast, right there 

[Jin2k9]

Thanx guys for your positive feedback. I will try to sort out my scribblings and pictures some time in the near future and give you a more in-depth look of the building process. Stay tuned is all I can say for now since my work-log is just a big mess right now.

And yeah I probably should give up smoking at some point 

Let's see a video demo!

I  posted 2 video links at the bottom of my post, but in case you missed them, here are the dropbox links again. Unfortunately I wasn't able to upload these to youtube for some reason.

Full mame and multi touch demo
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lfdrxbgfkokrbk7/Multitouch-Arcade-Table-Demo.mp4?dl=0

Future pinball with 3D emulation and ir tracking (BAM) (IR tracking activates around 30 sec into the video.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8p1bqhii1gu46m0/Tron-Pinball-3D-Test.MP4?dl=0

[ChanceKJ]

Wait... Is that backlight for the display split from the LCD and laying on the bottom of the cab floor? Is that what I'm seeing here? And if so... Why?

Also, how did you achive that split screen effect for horizontal games? Does it know to go 2x split for 2 player games, and vertical or horizontal for everything else? I like the idea of being able to play a game like Mario 3 in the split screen 2x mode, but then Donkey Kong in a vertical.  I'm going to need this for an upcoming coctail project I'm working on.

[yotsuya]

Wait... Is that backlight for the display split from the LCD and laying on the bottom of the cab floor? Is that what I'm seeing here? And if so... Why?

Also, how did you achive that split screen effect for horizontal games? Does it know to go 2x split for 2 player games, and vertical or horizontal for everything else? I like the idea of being able to play a game like Mario 3 in the split screen 2x mode, but then Donkey Kong in a vertical.  I'm going to need this for an upcoming coctail project I'm working on.

Use the cocktail setting under visual settings in MAME.

[Jin2k9]

Wait... Is that backlight for the display split from the LCD and laying on the bottom of the cab floor? Is that what I'm seeing here? And if so... Why?

Very  observant and totally correct. I had to do this so that I could re-build a regular 40" inc TV to a 40" multitouch screen with fiducial recognition (it can sense and recognize marked objects with barcodes on the botton placed on top of the screen, for instance marked mug, cellphone ect and activate a function based on that fiducial)

[ChanceKJ]

Wait... Is that backlight for the display split from the LCD and laying on the bottom of the cab floor? Is that what I'm seeing here? And if so... Why?

Very  observant and totally correct. I had to do this so that I could re-build a regular 40" inc TV to a 40" multitouch screen with fiducial recognition (it can sense and recognize marked objects with barcodes on the botton placed on top of the screen, for instance marked mug, cellphone ect and activate a function based on that fiducial)

  well done sir!

[Speed Racer]

Wow, that's some nice work there  I really like some of the ideas here - I think I want to start another project!

I'm curious about a couple of things though...

1) What sort of monitor and touch control are you using?

2) I see photos with and without glass on top. This might be a stupid question, but does the touchscreen only work without the glass?

3) I see you have tested IR tracking with BAM in your video. Can this be done on your build? Where does the IR tracking camera go on a cocktail cab?

Cheers 

[Jin2k9]

Wow, that's some nice work there  I really like some of the ideas here - I think I want to start another project!

I'm curious about a couple of things though...

1) What sort of monitor and touch control are you using?

2) I see photos with and without glass on top. This might be a stupid question, but does the touchscreen only work without the glass?

3) I see you have tested IR tracking with BAM in your video. Can this be done on your build? Where does the IR tracking camera go on a cocktail cab?

Cheers 

1) Standard Samsung 40" TV with 178 Degrees View angle (Old model, don't remember the exact model, but can find out.) Multi-touch method: DSI Setup.

2) Depends on technique used (LLP, DSI) ext, diffuser used and type of top glass used. It can be used with regular glass to convert it to a free hand drawing board using IR pen (not shown in any of the videos). With a special type of top glass touch works through the top glass with a DSI setup. With a LLP setup touch will work through regular glass, but the IR pen drawing board function and fiducial recognition does not work.

3) You place the cameras under the lcd panel, preferably on the short side wall furthest away from you in a 35-45 degree upwards angle. The cameras dectects IR Light though the LCD panel (you ned to split the lcd panel, diffusers and backlight apart to be able to use this method). This also eliminates the problem on regular futurepin builds where the cameras are placed in the backbox and are not detecting the IR light if you tilt your head down too much when looking at the "playfield". But here since the cameras are placed under the screen/playfield this is no longer an issue =)

[rovingmind]

can you point me toward a link of some kind showing how to do that screen conversion?

[Yenome]

on an average what did this project cost you. Im interested in building one my self specially after seeing your demo video. awesome work. I need a new coffee table.

[Jin2k9]

can you point me toward a link of some kind showing how to do that screen conversion?

Not really since all the other decently explained DSI projects I found online used a projector with rear projection acrylic glass and not an lcd panel. Although the principle is basicly the same, they used different materials, no diffuser (the rear projection glass in these projects also worked as the diffuser) and therefore none of them explained how to take the lcd screen apart or how to disassemble the back-light for modding. So I had to improvise a lot and find my own solution to many of the problems regarding this. I don't remember if I took pics along each step of the way through this process. However I can try to explain this later when I have sorted out my project notes.

First test after taking the LCD screen apart:


LCD panel reverse test after taking it apart, placing the lcd panel upside down on a glass table (view from under the glass table, using a fake back-light)


Test fit after removing the back-light tubes, modding the back-light chassis, mounting fans + getting ready to test fit the Camera, IR filter and optics and testing my custom metal frame idea for holding the LCD panel

on an average what did this project cost you. Im interested in building one my self specially after seeing your demo video. awesome work. I need a new coffee table.

Not really relevant I guess since taxes and shipping to Norway killed me compared to the parts. Step woodwork prizes, screws and mounting material didn't help either. I got some parts of this project sponsored. I wanted Sanwa parts for the consoles. I used however a cheap ass coin chute. I Tried to make it as cheap as possible without loosing quality. I mean I could have bought ---smurfy--- happ parts, a cheap Joystick 2 player pcb instead of an IPAC ect. I guess I did the whole build for around $1100 USD (you can consider $350 of those shipping and taxes), not counting the PC or DMX controller (for controlling DMX lights and lasers in your living room which you probably don't need unless you have DMX controlled lights in your home).

M-PC Multi Touch based DMX control and Media playlist remote running side by side.


You don't really need an I7 quad core with 16 gig ram like I put in, when considering I used a dual core 2.2 ghz with 4 gig ram for all the initial tests and that worked just fine.

What I can say though is that's its not "expensive" to get the touch screen functionality. If you use the LLP method it will probably only run you into $100 usd extra. IF you opt for the DSI method it probably will run you into $200-250 usd. That is if you live in the US or Germany though.

[Louis Tully]

.

[Yenome]

yea this thing is awesome i been wanting a coffee table build But now i think i got a new direction i can see the touch abilities being popular at holiday get togethers

[rovingmind]

thanks for posting the extra pictures. 

I was using the google and saw this one http://nuisance-table.blogspot.com/ but he seems to be using a different tracking method than you are.

Can you clarify one thing?  Are you using the DSI with the infra-red LEDs going into the edge of the glass overlay? 

or are you using this method? http://wiki.nuigroup.com/Diffused_Illumination

[Jin2k9]

thanks for posting the extra pictures. 

I was using the google and saw this one http://nuisance-table.blogspot.com/ but he seems to be using a different tracking method than you are.

Can you clarify one thing?  Are you using the DSI with the infra-red LEDs going into the edge of the glass overlay? 

or are you using this method? http://wiki.nuigroup.com/Diffused_Illumination

First one is LLP. Having IR lasers creating a "grid" over the top glass layer. Seems like the guy in this example used a lens with way too much distortion and was not able to correct it. Also using 2 light tubes in the middle of the table also seems like a bad idea. Even with a perfect diffuser installed I am pretty sure the LCD panel would not be evenly light lit.

2nd is more or less the DSI method I used with the diffuser placed under the LCD panel.

3rd method DI might work for a setup like this, but placing the diffuser on top of it all does not sound like a good idea for a LCD setup. For a projector setup however it will probably work.

[Jin2k9]

Here are the first post regarding the building details for this project.

The projects goals:

1. 256 Multi-touch Windows 8.1 + OSX and Linux support
2. Lightpen drawing support
3. Jamma support: Real Arcade PCBs are supported as well as JPACs
4. DMX light control
5. Remote control
6. Future Pinball

Where to start...

Hardware used:

Multi-Touch Parts:
IR Led Strip  850 nm, 120°
Acrylic W/Metal particles
Regular Acrylic for Diffuser holder
PS3EYE
IR Filter 750nm
M12 Mount
M12 Lens (170 Degrees)

Display:
Samsung
Model Code: LE40A559P4CXXE
Type No: LE40A559

Diffuser sheet
LCD Panel
LCD Back-light
Power board
Video Board
LCD Board
Remote control board

IR-Light Pen:
LED from old DVD Remote Control
Standard Marker
AA Battery
Switch from old Keyboard Receiver

Arcade Parts:
Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT  x2
Sanwa OBSF-30 x12
Sanwa OBSF-24 x 2
CPU Comparable Electronic Coin Acceptor (TW-130)
Modded CD-ROM audio cable
J-PAC
Jamma Harness Assembly
16 Wire control cable (6 Meters) (55-721-85)
15 Pin Dsub Male x2  (44-055-69)
15 Pin Dsub Female x2 (44-055-10)
15 Pin Dsub Enclosure x4 (44-093-63)

Metal Parts:
Custom Screen Frame
Custom ATX Power Bracket
Custom Video and Power Card Mounting Bracket
Custom Rib Card Mounting Bracket
Custom Joystick Panel x2
Table legs x4

Wood and misc:

MDF 2.1 mm Full plate x2
Wood Screws (lots of different sizes and length)
Powerbox
Power clamps
Cable channels
Wire strips
Mounting bolts large with washers and nuts  x4
Mounting bolts small with washers and nuts x16
screw holders x 14
Plastic gloves
Molex splitters x3









Choosing your display:

Here are the important factors:

Make 100% sure the Display you're choosing has NO FFC issues. The LCD panel should have a 178 degree viewing angle or more. A back-lit panel would be preferable. Large LCD frame holder preferable.

Since I never really  had taken apart any LCD panels before, I wanted to do some research and practical testing the check out the general idea before taking apart the Samsung panel I wanted to use for the table. The testing started with an old 14" PC monitor which was pretty easy to dismantle the LCD on.









After a successful test I wanted to practice the procedure on a larger screen before dismantle the Samsung TV and its LCD panel. Lucky for me a friend of mine had a couple of broken LCD TVs lying around that I was given (One 40" with cracked panel and One 32" that wont power on)





The principle was of cause still the same, however I had to be really careful with the 40" LCD panel once IŽd taken it apart. After yet a successful test I felt comfortable to take the Samsung TV I was going to use apart.

After taking the TV apart and disseminating the LCD panel I did a quick test to make sure The TV and LCD panel still worked.



It was then time to seriously start on the woodwork's. I drafted up the basic dimensions for the table. Top plate 150x90cm. Left and right sides 60x30 Front and back 60x70. Then I had to start to party assemble everything to continue my testing.







The Next step was to check if the back-light was strong enough to light up the screen properly from a distance and not create any dark spots. I placed everything upside down on my cheap glass table I picked up at finn.no.



On my first power up I didn't bother to mount the diffuser ect which gave this result.



I then decided to mount the diffuser and wire everything in. This finally gave a satisfactory result.







Then it was time to start on the joystick panels, since my optics, ir filters and special acrylic hadn't arrived yet. Yet again I did a cheesy mockup drawing of what I wanted.



After assembling the pieces it was time to find out where to drill the holes. Like everyone else these days I just ripped off the setup from the Tatio Viewlix joypanel. Template was downloaded from slagcoin and printed out without any adjustments on my Mac. If you wonder why I didn't center the stick in middle of the joypanel, there is a good reason for this. Your palms needs to rest on the panel or you will get tired really fast when playing.






 I also got the metal panel made which is pictures under the parts used listing. After drilling the holes and test fitting buttons and an old hori joystick from an old PS2 stick, this was what the result looked like.





I then went to Filmteam A/S and got a artwork printout for the joypanel. Again I ripped off the Tatio Viewlix Panel and added the start button since I wanted a easy solution and a clean look



My new sanwa parts finally arrived and I mounted the JFL stick, joystick sleeves ect. This gave me the following result. However the pink buttons didn't really fit the clean and simplistic look I was going for.