Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up Try the site in https mode Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: Final Lap racing cab - M2/MAME  (Read 6677 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

flash951

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 53
  • Last login:May 18, 2016, 04:22:39 pm
  • You should use CRT display
    • remimedia
Final Lap racing cab - M2/MAME
« on: August 17, 2014, 05:52:22 pm »





















































« Last Edit: August 17, 2014, 06:57:23 pm by flash951 »

geecab

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 252
  • Last login:Yesterday at 01:06:50 pm
Re: Final Lap racing cab - M2/MAME
« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2014, 05:31:22 pm »
Nice work! I've always liked the design of the final lap cab :) Are you planning to get the side art re printed?

flash951

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 53
  • Last login:May 18, 2016, 04:22:39 pm
  • You should use CRT display
    • remimedia
Re: Final Lap racing cab - M2/MAME
« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2014, 06:50:19 pm »
Thanks, it was so much work. I want a reprint, but I haven't found a decent photo of the side panel that I can use the reconstruct the side art. If someone got a photo from the side, I'm up for the task.

What do you think about the 25" CRT I took from a "donor" TV? I've connected it with RGBS just like arcade monitors. The European TV's got a SCART connector which has RGBS input (some resistors and two extra voltage signals needed though). 

I also need a router bit to make the groove for the t-molding. Do you know where to purchase such?
« Last Edit: August 19, 2014, 04:33:10 am by flash951 »

Howard_Casto

  • Idiot Police
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 19402
  • Last login:June 02, 2024, 04:09:27 pm
  • Your Post's Soul is MINE!!! .......Again??
    • The Dragon King
Re: Final Lap racing cab - M2/MAME
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2014, 05:17:08 am »
Fort the crt it really depends upon what you'll be playing on it.  If you want to also add some pc racers they are going to look terrible, so a lcd might be a better option.  Even model 2/supermodel stuff looks better on a lcd because the rendering is up-scaled.  But if you are strictly sticking to older arcade stuff, a crt would probably be better. 

I always get t-molding bits online.  If you go to your local home improvement store they charge twice as much.  Just make sure you get the exact size bit the t-molding supplier recommends and that it is a tri-wing type with a roller guide.  All other grove bits are crap and will dig into your wood. 

flash951

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 53
  • Last login:May 18, 2016, 04:22:39 pm
  • You should use CRT display
    • remimedia
Re: Final Lap racing cab - M2/MAME
« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2014, 08:59:39 am »
Only CRT for me, I would never ever put a LCD in a cabinet. In my opinion, even M2 games looks far better on a 15 kHz CRT than LCD, even if that games maybe had 24 kHz CRT originally, and with older games it feels so much more authentic. Except if I had a cab to play the high-res console/PC games of today, or a cab that had LCD originally,  I would put in a LCD too.

I have 3/4 t-molding, will this work?
http://www.t-molding.com/store/product.php?productid=57&cat=6&page=1
« Last Edit: August 19, 2014, 09:16:37 am by flash951 »

Howard_Casto

  • Idiot Police
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 19402
  • Last login:June 02, 2024, 04:09:27 pm
  • Your Post's Soul is MINE!!! .......Again??
    • The Dragon King
Re: Final Lap racing cab - M2/MAME
« Reply #5 on: August 19, 2014, 09:31:01 am »
Eh crts are over.  As soon as mame got hlsl support to simulate a crt screen, I ran out of excuses to hold on to them.  Mind you if the cab already has a working one that's one thing, but paying to put one in... eh ... it's not worth it anymore.  Shoot even stuff like model 2 has sweetfx.  Keep in mind this is coming from someone who 10 years ago would have found putting a lcd in a cab unforgivable. 

In regards to what you asked....It should, but remember that's just the cutting wheel... you still have to buy a shank. 

Pro Tip:  t-molding.com obviously is just re-selling slot cutters found elsewhere so you'll pay a premium from them.  Write down the specs and then search online for a better price. 

flash951

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 53
  • Last login:May 18, 2016, 04:22:39 pm
  • You should use CRT display
    • remimedia
Re: Final Lap racing cab - M2/MAME
« Reply #6 on: August 19, 2014, 03:04:25 pm »
I live in Norway, so the price on the item itself is not so important, because I have to pay 25% import VAT and maybe 40$ in shipping, and more. Unfortunately I can not find the correct cutter in the local shops where I live.
« Last Edit: August 19, 2014, 03:11:46 pm by flash951 »

geecab

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 252
  • Last login:Yesterday at 01:06:50 pm
Re: Final Lap racing cab - M2/MAME
« Reply #7 on: August 19, 2014, 04:55:29 pm »
Thanks, it was so much work. I want a reprint, but I haven't found a decent photo of the side panel that I can use the reconstruct the side art. If someone got a photo from the side, I'm up for the task.
I've just had a google for a good side art pic but couldn't find anything  :(. I don't suppose you've still got the old one you pulled off have you? With a good hi-res picture of that and good paint/vector application you could bring it back to life :)

What do you think about the 25" CRT I took from a "donor" TV?
Its cool! I put a 19inch screen in my mame cab because I had a 19inch 4:3 LCD monitor spare (so it was the cheap option). I would have gone larger if I could. If you find your screen is a little too big, you could always reduce the screen size of the games slightly in mame  :)

I also need a router bit to make the groove for the t-molding. Do you know where to purchase such?
I had the same problem finding the right routing bit in the UK. In the end I bought my cutter, arbor and bearing, from axminster (www.axminster.co.uk). Its been about 3 years since I bought these bits, but I think they cost me a total of £50. It seemed quite expensive at the time...
These are the part numbers of what I bought, hopefully you might be able to google search these and find somewhere near you that has them or something similar:-
CMT Arbor 824064 (Shank (S): 1/4")
Axcaliber Bearing 666247
CMT Three Wing Slot Cutters 822316  (1.6mm cut width)

I've attached a picture of my Cutter, arbor and bearing. Let me know if you need more measurements.
Just thought, it might be worth having a look (or posting a question) on the "woodworking" section on this site, as this subject comes up from time to time.

Hope this helps!

flash951

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 53
  • Last login:May 18, 2016, 04:22:39 pm
  • You should use CRT display
    • remimedia
Re: Final Lap racing cab - M2/MAME
« Reply #8 on: August 21, 2014, 05:00:37 pm »
I've ordered now from GroovyGameGear, because the one from the other arcade shop was cutting to deep I think (1/2)".

flash951

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 53
  • Last login:May 18, 2016, 04:22:39 pm
  • You should use CRT display
    • remimedia
Re: Final Lap racing cab - M2/MAME
« Reply #9 on: August 31, 2014, 04:07:20 pm »
I've got the router bit, but It wouldn't fit my European routers chuck "6 mm", so I went to a key smith to grind of about 0,3 mm, after this it would fit and it was cutting the wood like butter.