Extruded vs Cast Acrylic Plexiglass

[AzureKnight]

I tried searching for this and couldn't find anything on it, so I apologize in advance if this topic has been covered.

I'm looking to order a sheet of plexiglass for my cp from Tap plastics and they have two forms of plexi: Cast or Extruded.

The cast is almost 40% more than the extruded (which the description on the site says is crystal clear).

Since I have little experience with these materials does anyone know if the extra cost is worth it?  Do they both hold up the same under use?  Are they equally easy to work with?  (I know Lexan can scratch easier so I am trying to stay away from that.)

Thanks.

[RandyT]

Here is a nice page which points out the differences.

For a cabinet window, cast would be better for the scratch resistance.  Probably the same for a CP (sorry didn't see that part originally).  If you go with extruded, and have it laser cut, be careful about using solvents like alcohol for cleaning.  It can have some bad effects.  Better to avoid solvents altogether with laser cut or flame polished parts, just to be safe.

[lamprey]

Are you thinking of using clear plexi to protect the artwork? If so, my opinion is to skip the plexi and just get a high quality overlay that includes a polycarbonate laminate (a la gameongrafix.com and others). They are plenty durable on there own without the need to cover them.

[AzureKnight]

Randy,
Thank you for the info that is very helpful.



lamprey,
I have a minigrip flightstick from Ultimarc and it has an extremely low clearance from the base to the start of the grip.  In another thread I was discussing mounting options for it and I think in the end I have settled on just top mounting it.  That means removable artwork and plexi.  Honestly I like the look of a cabinet with or without plexi.  I know I could mount the stick other ways but most of them involve metal working that I just don't have the tools or the skills for.  I do plan on ordering from gameongrafix.  That being said, I'm capable of over-analyzing and second guessing myself to death so I may change my mind (or have it changed by advice here  )

[PL1]

I have a minigrip flightstick from Ultimarc and it has an extremely low clearance from the base to the start of the grip.  In another thread I was discussing mounting options for it and I think in the end I have settled on just top mounting it.  That means removable artwork and plexi.

You can mount the art on top of 1/8" hardboard and flush top-mount your sticks on 5/8" MDF like this diagram from Slagcoin.



This will make the top layer removable if you ever want to repair/replace the sticks while keeping the art intact, smooth, and undamaged.


Scott
P.S. If anyone is wondering what hardboard is, see this post in AzureKnight's Minigrip Mounting thread or the bottom cover here on my standalone pinball controller. (near the end of the post)

[AzureKnight]

I have to admit that I am more of a software guy than a carpentry guy.  I've worked with hardboard a few times in the past and found it a total nightmare to try to get a clean cut on.  If I did go that route any recommendations?

[PL1]

I have to admit that I am more of a software guy than a carpentry guy.  I've worked with hardboard a few times in the past and found it a total nightmare to try to get a clean cut on.  If I did go that route any recommendations?

A drill guide is your friend for drilling vertical holes using a forstner bit/holesaw.

Having a spoiler board behind the material you are drilling thru will help you avoid blowouts.

Here are several approaches to building a layered panel:
(Use a scrap of hardboard to verify if your forstner bit/holesaw makes a clean hole before trying METHOD 2)

METHOD 1
1. After you cut the 5/8" MDF base to the desired size/shape, cut a slightly larger piece of hardboard.

2. Drill the button holes and the round joystick holes in the MDF with a forstner bit/holesaw.

3. Clamp the MDF and hardboard together.

4. Drill holes in the hardboard large enough to fit a router flush-trim bit.

5. Use the flush-trim bit to enlarge all the button holes and round joystick holes to match the MDF.

6. Use several buttons in the farthest-apart holes (minimizes wiggle) to hold the MDF and hardboard together.

7. Trim the outside edge of the hardboard to size using the flush-trim bit.

8. Route/drill the pockets for the joysticks in the MDF.

METHOD 2
1. After you cut the 5/8" MDF base to the desired size/shape, cut a slightly larger piece of hardboard.

2. Clamp the MDF and hardboard together.

3. Drill the button holes and the round joystick holes with a forstner bit/holesaw.

4. Trim the outside edge of the hardboard to size using the flush-trim bit.

5. Route/drill the pockets for the joysticks in the MDF.


Scott

[SavannahLion]

Here is a nice page which points out the differences.

For a cabinet window, cast would be better for the scratch resistance.  Probably the same for a CP (sorry didn't see that part originally).  If you go with extruded, and have it laser cut, be careful about using solvents like alcohol for cleaning.  It can have some bad effects.  Better to avoid solvents altogether with laser cut or flame polished parts, just to be safe.

Holy crap... I had no idea extruded has such variance.... the core layers in my project are made using Acrylic sheets. I better check those measurements before I put it together....