Just arrived

[TIGER8855]

Great job as usual!

Did you paint the dash gloss black? I'm not sure if I should paint mine with gloss or satin.

[Brian74]

I am also interested in the shaft extension. 

[Howard_Casto]

Well he mentions it's steel, but I'd like to know if it was specifically milled or what, because it looks suspiciously like something you could pick up at the hardware store and Logitech has used the same diameter shafts for ages, so it'd likely work for all of us. 

[SegaOutrun]

damn you. I was content with my wheel until i saw your steering shaft. The shaft on my Driving force gt is so small, my hands barely fit without hitting the base. excuse me while i take my wheel apart....sigh.

[Brian74]

damn you. I was content with my wheel until i saw your steering shaft. The shaft on my Driving force gt is so small, my hands barely fit without hitting the base. excuse me while i take my wheel apart....sigh.

 Here is how I did mine. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130821.msg1343586.html#msg1343586

[SegaOutrun]

damn you. I was content with my wheel until i saw your steering shaft. The shaft on my Driving force gt is so small, my hands barely fit without hitting the base. excuse me while i take my wheel apart....sigh.

 Here is how I did mine. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130821.msg1343586.html#msg1343586

Way out my budget. I just took my wheel apart. I think $5 worth of pipes and rivets is going to do the job for me.

[Howard_Casto]

I was thinking raid lowes and see what they've got in the fencing section.  If that doesn't work maybe sewer/drain pipe.  That stuff is unbelievably strong and yet easy to cut and adapt to different diameters. 

[vandale]

Yeah that looks pretty slick. 

What are you using for a shaft extension on the wheel?

Thanks. Using a 50mm steel exhaust tube that has been crushed at one end and flared at the other to ensure it is a tight press fit onto the Logitech shaft and inside the Logitech wheel. I have then drilled and bolted the hidden end behind the dash. Thinking I will rivet or pk the steering wheel end.

[vandale]

Great job as usual!

Did you paint the dash gloss black? I'm not sure if I should paint mine with gloss or satin.

Thanks. I painted it with a high gloss enamel with a wide fan spray head to try and get a finish that doesn't needed cutting and polishing. The trick was I used a filler primer and kept sanding it flat then re-primering then sanding again to give the black a nice even base. I was thinking of using matt to prevent too much reflection from the screen but then decided against it as I love the piano black look

[vandale]

damn you. I was content with my wheel until i saw your steering shaft. The shaft on my Driving force gt is so small, my hands barely fit without hitting the base. excuse me while i take my wheel apart....sigh.

Hehe, yes I had that issues on previous cabs and decided the extra work was well worth it in the end

[vandale]

damn you. I was content with my wheel until i saw your steering shaft. The shaft on my Driving force gt is so small, my hands barely fit without hitting the base. excuse me while i take my wheel apart....sigh.

 Here is how I did mine. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130821.msg1343586.html#msg1343586

Hi Brian, hows the cab coming along?

[Howard_Casto]

Yeah that looks pretty slick. 

What are you using for a shaft extension on the wheel?

Thanks. Using a 50mm steel exhaust tube that has been crushed at one end and flared at the other to ensure it is a tight press fit onto the Logitech shaft and inside the Logitech wheel. I have then drilled and bolted the hidden end behind the dash. Thinking I will rivet or pk the steering wheel end.

Hmm... so exhaust pipe huh.  I'm from WV... pretty sure it's a state law that I have at least a few car parts lying around... let me see what I can find. 

[vandale]

I just drilled and screwed the wheel end with a coarse threaded m5 screw, 4 of them. Done up very tight. I am surprised the plastic shaft didn't stress or whiten or crack so that's good. It feels nice and strong but I won't be pulling myself in and out of the cab with it as only original wheels can handle that and even some of those fail.

[BadMouth]

I thought it was exhaust pipe!

[Howard_Casto]

In regards to pulling yourself out of the cab.... if I were to do this mod, I would make my dash out of 3/4 inch plywood.  So if some idgit did that, the stress would be on the dash and not the wheel assembly. 

So did you cut the wheel or what?  I trying to understand exactly how you did this before I even attempt it. 

[Brian74]

damn you. I was content with my wheel until i saw your steering shaft. The shaft on my Driving force gt is so small, my hands barely fit without hitting the base. excuse me while i take my wheel apart....sigh.

 Here is how I did mine. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130821.msg1343586.html#msg1343586

Hi Brian, hows the cab coming along?

It is at a stand still  I had to rebuild the pc, the motherboard died. I have to fix the sides like you did, paint and the first cab is done. Just got the G25 for the 2nd cab, have the pc. Just need to find a screen and do the shaft extension. Have to admit, this is coming out very nice. 

[vandale]

Thanks Brian.

I am envious of your shaft extension. looks like it will run true and stand up strength wise. I am considering ripping mine out and copying yours....

[Brian74]

Thanks Brian.

I am envious of your shaft extension. looks like it will run true and stand up strength wise. I am considering ripping mine out and copying yours....

Thanks Vandale, I am jealous of your body work skills. You did a great job on those sides. Mine are in pretty tough shape also. I am going to have to copy how you did your seat.

[vandale]

Small update.

I ripped out the seat speakers as they were 8ohms. They are 3x5 inch oval and I cannot source these in NZ so I made a 3x5 plate and inserted a 3x3 4ohm speaker in it, didn't get any photos of that though. Installed both into the seat, sprayed the speaker mesh and reassembled. Also removed the original sega dash speakers and installed some fusion tweeters which I have wired in mono and run to the centre out put on the 5.1 amp. Extended all the speaker cables and ran them to the amp also. Installed the 5.1 driver and reduced the volume of the rears so all 6 speakers are normalised. Removed the sega sub from the seat and placed the sub and amp below here to allow the sound to travel through the seat for a better driving experience. Mounted the rubber floor mat and polished the stainless covers. Because I have not used the sega pedal box I may have to lay some more rubber mat below the pedals to prevent wear on the paint and also have the rubber mat flow nicer. Next step is to move the amp volume to a spot on the dash and install a neat dial for that and the bass adjustments.

Pics:

[Brian74]

I hope you have fans in the front and the back of that base. I had my pc in the same spot and it got pretty hot in there. Looking awesome!

[vandale]

I hope you have fans in the front and the back of that base. I had my pc in the same spot and it got pretty hot in there. Looking awesome!

Good point. I removed the 110v fans as they had bearing noise. I prefer a low voltage replacement as they are quiet. I will run 2x12 volt fans direct to the PC molex if it struggles with heat.

[Brian74]

How do you like the pedals at that angel? I removed mine from the housing and mounted them the same way. I think I need to angel mine more. They just dont feel right.

[vandale]

They feel great. I have a size 11 foot and I can rest my heals on the rubber mat and tap inbetween the brake and acc pedals without lifting my leg which works just like in my real life car which has a similar angle pedal assembly.

Cheers

[MrThunderwing]

Hey Vandale, this project looks really good. Can I ask you a very noobish question? What exactly are you doing when you say that you've 'bogged' the damage to the cracked plastic in the image below? Are you literally just using something like a soldering iron to weld the plastic back together and then sticking some kind of plastic filler over the top? (I'm not planning on building any arcade machines any time soon, but I do have a crack in the rear bumper of my car that would benefit from something like this)

Plastic welded and bogged the damage

[Andy_Bogard]

Congratulations Vandale for your work!
Did you keep the OPC-20 Ogura Clutch?
Mine just broke so I am looking for another one...
I tried to send you Pms but it did not work :-(
Thank you for your answer!

[Howard_Casto]

Actually you sent me PMs.  I wondered what that was about as I don't have that cab. 

[vandale]

Congratulations Vandale for your work!
Did you keep the OPC-20 Ogura Clutch?
Mine just broke so I am looking for another one...
I tried to send you Pms but it did not work :-(
Thank you for your answer!

Hi, yes its in my pile of metal that goes to the scrap dealer, where are you located?

[vandale]

Hey Vandale, this project looks really good. Can I ask you a very noobish question? What exactly are you doing when you say that you've 'bogged' the damage to the cracked plastic in the image below? Are you literally just using something like a soldering iron to weld the plastic back together and then sticking some kind of plastic filler over the top? (I'm not planning on building any arcade machines any time soon, but I do have a crack in the rear bumper of my car that would benefit from something like this)

Plastic welded and bogged the damage

Hi, yes melted and bogged, sanded, bog, sand, primer fill, sand, primer, sand, paint 3 coats.

[Malenko]

Actually you sent me PMs.  I wondered what that was about as I don't have that cab. 

I got em too

[Generic Eric]

Actually you sent me PMs.  I wondered what that was about as I don't have that cab. 

I got em too

I got one too.  It must have been a generic PM

[TIGER8855]

Congratulations Vandale for your work!
Did you keep the OPC-20 Ogura Clutch?
Mine just broke so I am looking for another one...
I tried to send you Pms but it did not work :-(
Thank you for your answer!

Hi, yes its in my pile of metal that goes to the scrap dealer, where are you located?

He is located in Belgium! I have one also but it's being sold with the steering assembly as a complete unit. Bit heavy to ship to Belgium.

[vandale]

I can sell it separately no probs, a lot cheaper to ship that way

[TIGER8855]

Plastic welded and bogged the damage


Hi, yes melted and bogged, sanded, bog, sand, primer fill, sand, primer, sand, paint 3 coats.

What brand/type primer did you use vandale?

I'm about to paint my side plastics and I have to use an aerosol can as I don't have a spray gun. I went to buy the primer and was surprised at what happened.

The first 2 stores I went to said that nothing would stick to the plastic? Another said they only knew one brand that works on plastic but it only had a few colors available. Then I said but can't I just get a plastic primer and then paint anything on top of that and the guy just repeated what he said about the one brand.

Another store had zinseer BIN which I've heard about and they guy said it "should work". The last store had a plastic primer but it was clear. My plastics are white and have severe yellowing where there was no sticker plus some bog work so I was hoping to use a white primer to cover that before the color coat.

So now I'm unsure what to do. I don't want to go and paint the whole side plastic only to find it didn't work right.

[Howard_Casto]

[offtopic]*sigh*  It would be nice to sleep....[/offtopic]

I would be interested in this as well, just for future reference. 

Things I do know:

Krylon makes a line of spray cans called "plasticoat" they are specifically designed for use on plastic, fiberglass and other non-metallic surfaces.  The stuff is a bit difficult to work with but it does work.  I used a little of it back in the day when I thought I was a case-modder.    The body filler might react differently to it though. 

To paint fiberglass and plastic in the automotive industry, they indeed do use a special primer.  I believe bulldog makes it.  The primer is more flexible so it prevents chipping and scratching.  There is a special procedure for painting though.  Generally you have to spray your paint over it while it's still tacky, but I'm not a body shop guy, so look it up. 

[vandale]

Hi guys. I used a spray can enamel called plastikote. Its a bog standard enamel spray can, same with the primer which was just named sand able primer by plastikote.

Howard, are your reffering to plastidip in a can, the spray on rubber stuff a lot of the car guys use to matt black there bonnets and wheels? If so then yes its a little difficult to work with but hard wearing and textured like the rubber coating on late model laptops etc. I chose not to use this as it takes a lot of cans to cover a small area with the 5 coats they recommend.

My advise is to use enamel in a can and ask for a spray nib that has a wide fan so you can get good coverage without line sin your paint. Allow it a week to dry in the sun or a warm room before handelling unless you want finger prints etc

Here is a link to the paint I used, not sure if you get it in the US. http://www.plasti-kote.co.uk/Product/pcode---4585/pccode---6751

Thanks

[Howard_Casto]

No that's the exact same thing I'm talking about. It's sold under the krylon brand here in the states... or at least it used to be (haven't bought some in some time, so maybe they branched off). 

*edit*

hmm either my memory is failing me or I've got it mixed up.  I have used plastikoat before and it works well, but the one I was thinking of is apparently called Krylon Fusion.  Long story short back when I used to use the stuff there were only one or two brands out there, but now that I'm looking today every major spray paint manufacturer seems to have their own version. 

[TIGER8855]

Thanks for the info vandale! I will give plastikote a go if I can get it here.

I also found rustoleum which is meant to work well with plastic. I will use this if I can't find plastikote.

[Andy_Bogard]

Vandale I sent you a PM!

[BC_Jeffro]

nice work !