Just arrived

[vandale]

Plans are to do a full restoration as the cab has no rust and is in excellent condition. Shame its got a Scud Race gearstick, nice but not original. Oh and its got #1 on the seat

Then install a 27 inch 16:9 1080P LCD running Nuexzz's Daytona patch. Surround sound. Logitech hack with servo amp and a nice and fast core 2 duo or i3 with plenty of ram, custom xp boot logos etc.

[BadMouth]

Logitech hack with servo amp

The Sega motors are 120v and have a clutch mechanism, they're not 24v like the Happ setups that the servo amps are used with.
See links to Aganyte's interface in the driving cab info thread.
It's a bit over my head. 
I've been trying to find someone who knows what they're doing to help me put together an order for blank pcbs, but haven't had any luck.
I can solder the parts in, but I'm clueless about the file formats and options to get the boards made.

[vandale]

Logitech hack with servo amp

The Sega motors are 120v and have a clutch mechanism, they're not 24v like the Happ setups that the servo amps are used with.
See links to Aganyte's interface in the driving cab info thread.
It's a bit over my head. 
I've been trying to find someone who knows what they're doing to help me put together an order for blank pcbs, but haven't had any luck.
I can solder the parts in, but I'm clueless about the file formats and options to get the boards made.

Bugger never knew. I wonder if this setup is even original sega, will have a look tonight. If it is then I will resort to doing a G27 install and biff the arcade gear replace the seat, remove the Daytona stickers and just make a cool PC racing sim with no emulation.

[vandale]

Progress. Stripped the whole cab ready for a soapy wash and hose down. Plastic welded and filled a bad crack and hole on the side plastics. Confirmed as Badmouth suspected its a 100v force feedback with 24v clutch so that will be biffed. Picked up a  27inch 1080P Samsung panel for $50 locally and a av labs 5.1 surround system including amp and wiring locally for $25.

[AMG KC]

Was the NANAO dead? Those are exceptional monitors...

[Generic Eric]

How much of the base is metal?  It looks metal anyway

[twistedsymphony]

I've been trying to find someone who knows what they're doing to help me put together an order for blank pcbs, but haven't had any luck.
I can solder the parts in, but I'm clueless about the file formats and options to get the boards made.

You might wan to check out http://www.expresspcb.com they have a free PCB design software that you can download and use and once you're done they can make the board for you.

If you're looking for more traditional software then Eagle PCB was the most commonly used last time I looked into it.

Was the NANAO dead? Those are exceptional monitors...

No kidding... one thing about this forum that always makes me cringe is how often people throw away perfectly good HARD TO FIND tubes in lieu of an LCD...

I'll take a CRT over an LCD for classic games any day...  At least put those tubes up for sale or give them away on Craigslist... heck I'd gladly pay $100 or $150 for a good Tri-Sync compatible tube.

[jennifer]

    STOP...STOP.... Even Jennifer is getting all concerned here, put that monitor back on your computer and lets take a closer look @ that CRT.

[opt2not]

 
Even if that Nanao chassis was dead, it could still be used for a tube-swap!  I don't see any burn-in, from those pictures.

Most likely that Nanao is a dual-sync.
Still, Nanao 24khz monitors are a rare breed, and can be used for a candy cab transplant!  Please don't trash it. Either sell it or donate it to someone worthy of such a godly monitor. Clearly you're a mere LCD mortal that should not possess such a heavenly CRT. 

[AMG KC]

Been here two days and look what ive started!! Hahaha!! I collect CRT displays of all types and store them here, i give them away to anyone that wants to come and collect them, as its becoming more common for retro gamers to want a decent display for their games.

I generally use a CRT projector for gaming, looks awesome.

[vandale]

Was the NANAO dead? Those are exceptional monitors...

tube ok, board dead. Done plenty of Nanao sims so this time decided to do a HD version

[vandale]

How much of the base is metal?  It looks metal anyway

The whole thing is metal and plastic, no wood. Typically these are very rusty at this age so I am very happy with its condition

[vandale]

Even if that Nanao chassis was dead, it could still be used for a tube-swap!  I don't see any burn-in, from those pictures.

Most likely that Nanao is a dual-sync.
Still, Nanao 24khz monitors are a rare breed, and can be used for a candy cab transplant!  Please don't trash it. Either sell it or donate it to someone worthy of such a godly monitor. Clearly you're a mere LCD mortal that should not possess such a heavenly CRT.

I am saving the nanaos for my battle city cab so never fear they will be resurrected

If I am playing game sin 1080P then I don't want them downscaled to 24khz. pooooooooooo

[TIGER8855]

How much of the base is metal?  It looks metal anyway

The whole thing is metal and plastic, no wood. Typically these are very rusty at this age so I am very happy with its condition

Your right about the rust. The twin I'm restoring is the same version (all metal and plastic) and it has a lot of rust.

Most of it is just surface rust but it's worst than that around the fan vents. Hopefully a good sandblast of the base should clear most of it.

[AMG KC]

Was the NANAO dead? Those are exceptional monitors...

tube ok, board dead. Done plenty of Nanao sims so this time decided to do a HD version

Hmmm... 1080 lines is high def for gaming now eh?  Why didnt you go a CRT and do 2048x1536 or higher? Even 1600x1200 or 1920x1440 is going to give you more and a better aspect.

[vandale]

Was the NANAO dead? Those are exceptional monitors...

tube ok, board dead. Done plenty of Nanao sims so this time decided to do a HD version

Hmmm... 1080 lines is high def for gaming now eh?  Why didnt you go a CRT and do 2048x1536 or higher? Even 1600x1200 or 1920x1440 is going to give you more and a better aspect.

Calm down buddy, I understand you are obsessed with CRT and probably rub your knob on them before you go to bed at night. Doesn't give you any reason to hijack my thread with your pro CRT crap, piss off and troll somebody else's posts.

Will only say it once so don't bother replying as I have added you to my ignore list

[vandale]

Water blasted the frame to get rid of all the dirt and grime. Cut the seat rails off the Daytona seat as they were welded on, looked to be an aftermarket mod to prevent the bolts ripping through the frame and then dug out a scud race seat that will bolt straight up. Will strip the stickers and make custom ones at a later date. Also purchased an exlease Hp XW4400 PC, installed win 7 x64 ultimate, 8gb ram and a gts450 Nvidia DX11 card. I did a test run on Dirt3 at maximum detail at 1920x1080p and it averaged 59.25 fps so am very happy with such a bargain purchase of only $50.

[TIGER8855]

Man you don't muck around. Looking good so far. Love the scud race seat. Much better than the daytona seats and will look fantastic when mounted.

Do you know how you are going to mount the LCD? Are you going to keep the original bezel?

[AMG KC]

Was the NANAO dead? Those are exceptional monitors...

tube ok, board dead. Done plenty of Nanao sims so this time decided to do a HD version

Hmmm... 1080 lines is high def for gaming now eh?  Why didnt you go a CRT and do 2048x1536 or higher? Even 1600x1200 or 1920x1440 is going to give you more and a better aspect.

Calm down buddy, I understand you are obsessed with CRT and probably rub your knob on them before you go to bed at night. Doesn't give you any reason to hijack my thread with your pro CRT crap, piss off and troll somebody else's posts.

Will only say it once so don't bother replying as I have added you to my ignore list

What the hell is his issue? Im calm as a coma, i cant see where anyone could possibly think i wasnt, but anyway... And hijack his thread? Get f***en real!!! Hahaha!!!

I was merely asking a question, but obviously it was abit too difficult.

[opt2not]

Both you noobs need to chill. 
 I for one am glad you're not scraping the CRT. I notice you have a NAC, though maybe a bit bastardized, I'm glad to see you didn't replace the CRT there. That would be a complete shame (and pointless).
But if you've been here long enough you'd notice that the LCD vs. CRT issue is a reoccurring one. Many of threads of discussion were created about it, there is even another on the go right now...
 
Vandale, have you seen the giz10p LCD retro kit? http://www.giz10p.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=373

There is a link to their kit's installation instructions, with some pictures that might give you some ideas how to mount your monitor eloquently. Might be helpful.
Also, that site has some NOS parts if you're stuck looking for any replacements.

Good luck. 

[Howard_Casto]

Just for the record, if you are going to run anything modern on a cab, you go with an lcd.... it isn't much of a debate at this point.  Modern games are designed with a  16:9 ratio in mind and crts are incredibly heavy, bulky and require specialized hardware to interface with a pc. On the other hand lcds small form factor allows you to put then in any configuration and with modern video cards having a native hdmi out, you can just throw a budget tv in a rig and get a hd picture right out of the box. 

I was very adamant about crt only back in the day and if you are restoring a classic cab (pre mid-90's) then it's certainly the preferred method.  However, if you are making a mame cab, again unless you are going to be playing only classics on the thing, it's just more practical to use a lcd panel, especially now that mame and other emulators have hlsl effects that do a good approximation of a crt. 

It isn't even something to argue about anymore.  Even happ primarily sells lcd replacements for monitors at this point.  If you prefer crt displays then that's great and you should use them... I have a few in my classic cabs, but justifying using one in a new build is getting harder and harder as the years roll on.

[opt2not]

Also, not sure of your location, but someone at KLOV is giving away free driver cab seats:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=305954

Looks like he has a Sega GT/Scud Race one too.

[vandale]

Both you noobs need to chill. 
 I for one am glad you're not scraping the CRT. I notice you have a NAC, though maybe a bit bastardized, I'm glad to see you didn't replace the CRT there. That would be a complete shame (and pointless).
But if you've been here long enough you'd notice that the LCD vs. CRT issue is a reoccurring one. Many of threads of discussion were created about it, there is even another on the go right now...
 
Vandale, have you seen the giz10p LCD retro kit? http://www.giz10p.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=373

There is a link to their kit's installation instructions, with some pictures that might give you some ideas how to mount your monitor eloquently. Might be helpful.
Also, that site has some NOS parts if you're stuck looking for any replacements.

Good luck. 

Thanks for the info. I will be mounting the LCD behind the original bezel etc to keep it looking clean. I am not into cabs that have the LCD just placed on a shelf looking all out of place.

Noob, maybe not, been building mame cabs for 18 years, just not active on these forums for long

[jennifer]

      Well then you would know that the curve of the original Sega bezel wont match up to that flat screen.... So carry on.

[BadMouth]

      Well then you would know that the curve of the original Sega bezel wont match up to that flat screen.... So carry on.

The guy has converted quite a few driving cabs (4 or 5 that I remember, counting twin setups as one) and sold them for a good profit.
He knows what he's doing....and he's not going to spend much doing it. 

[opt2not]

Noob, maybe not, been building mame cabs for 18 years, just not active on these forums for long

Yeah, that's what I figured, but I consider any new member here with a low contribution to the forum a noob till proven otherwise.

But please, don't let me derail the thread. There is some great stuff happening in here, looking forward to the further progress and project log.
Makes me jealous, I almost had a Sega GT 1-seater cab that I would have done the same thing to, but the timing was bad due to being laid-off...(for the record, I would have thrown a new LCD into it too...and definitely keep the Nanao as a back-up for my NAC).

Carry on 

[AMG KC]

      Well then you would know that the curve of the original Sega bezel wont match up to that flat screen.... So carry on.

You are probably on ignore too 

[vandale]

      Well then you would know that the curve of the original Sega bezel wont match up to that flat screen.... So carry on.

yes and you would know with a little elbow grease and skilled hands you can modify the bezel for a tight fight

[vandale]

Spent a few hours on the cab this afternoon before the sun went down:

Side plastic fell over in the wind, so brittle it just smashed.

Plastic welded and bogged the damage

Rails were not the same bolt pattern so I drilled and tapped new holes etc

Seat base painted

Bezel cut with a knife and ruler to get flat for LCD

All cut ready to be cleaned up

Speaker grills cleaned and painted

Foot base, removed old vinyl and glue, painted ready for new rubber etc

Fitted the seat to the freshly painted frame. I used a hard wearing gloss black enamel, will take a few days to harden.

[TIGER8855]

You did all that in a few hours! I spent a few hours on mine this afternoon as well and didn't get anywhere near that much done.

I noticed in you first pic you had a versus city cab in the background. I also have one in my garage which I will work on after my driver twin is finished. Is yours working or is it going to be another project.

[vandale]

You did all that in a few hours! I spent a few hours on mine this afternoon as well and didn't get anywhere near that much done.

I noticed in you first pic you had a versus city cab in the background. I also have one in my garage which I will work on after my driver twin is finished. Is yours working or is it going to be another project.

Yep, 4.00-6.00pm yesterday afternoon

The versus cab will become a SSFIVAE battle cab on Taito X emulation.

I just read your sega rally project, good work, we are almost doing the same thing. Good idea with the speaker grills, might have to copy you as my 27inch also needs to cut back the bezel to fit.

Cheers

[vandale]

More progress. Sanded, re bogged, sanded and painted the side plastics. Stripped, sanded and painted the monitor frame and finally added a thin layer of foam to the seat as the original cushions are long gone and the plastic is hard as a buggery. Some bad news that will set me back a bit is when the side plastics were drying the cat jumped up on the table, landed on the right side one and knocked it to the ground which smashed the bog job and messed the paint up. I will have to wait a few days until it is dry so I can repair and repaint, damn p u s s y!

ready for paint


Painted


frame painted


Starting to reassemble


Seat no cushions


Foam cut and contact glued


Seat foam complete, needs a slight trim


Cat damage

[Generic Eric]

More progress. Sanded, re bogged, sanded and painted the side plastics. Stripped, sanded and painted the monitor frame and finally added a thin layer of foam to the seat as the original cushions are long gone and the plastic is hard as a buggery. Some bad news that will set me back a bit is when the side plastics were drying the cat jumped up on the table, landed on the right side one and knocked it to the ground which smashed the bog job and messed the paint up. I will have to wait a few days until it is dry so I can repair and repaint, damn p u s s y!

ready for paint
Cat damage

My condolences to the family for their upcoming loss of pet. 

[jennifer]

    From ten feet away.... And across the interweb, that black paint appears to have laid down nice.

[vandale]

    From ten feet away.... And across the interweb, that black paint appears to have laid down nice.

Thanks. To be honest I am surprised how glossy it is considering my prep was minimal. The red needs a good cut once it hardens but I will have to be careful as the plastic is weak. Or I can just cover it in stickers.

[vandale]

Hi all, quick update. G25 arrived. Installed the screen. Modified the bezel to fit the 27 inch. Made speaker covers from alloy mesh. Affixed in place and matt blacked the whole thing to prevent to much reflection when playing games. Purchased a 6 channel sound card. Replaced the original 10w front sega speakers with 4ohm 30w Fusion 2 ways. Needed 4 ohm as that's what the 5.1 amp runs so will be looking at what I can cram into the head rest speakers tomorrow. Quickly ran Dirt3 and it looks great. Glad I didn't go with a 32 inch now as it would have been to large when sitting that close.

[vandale]

Also, not sure of your location, but someone at KLOV is giving away free driver cab seats:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=305954

Looks like he has a Sega GT/Scud Race one too.

Hi, sorry missed this post. Thanks for the link but I am in New Zealand

[vandale]

Decided to not use the Scud Race shifter as its primarily for PC games therefor the 6 speed Logitech will be more suitable. I had a look around other builds and wasn't a fan of just mounting the shifter on the cab so I cut the shell down and mounted it inside the original Daytona shell. Repaired some plastics, fresh coat of paint and some textured carbon fibre vinyl to finish it off. Also moved the shifter dpad etc to the left side of dash, looks ok as is, could have been mounted flush but way to much hard work to get all the holes perfect. I used a steel shaft to extend the wheel and extended the wiring to suit. Pedal were reversed in the original Logitech casing which I cut down and mounted against the firewall as mentioned earlier its for PC games so the clutch is needed.

Here are some pics:

[BadMouth]

I never thought of doing that. 

[Howard_Casto]

Yeah that looks pretty slick. 

What are you using for a shaft extension on the wheel?

[TIGER8855]

Great job as usual!

Did you paint the dash gloss black? I'm not sure if I should paint mine with gloss or satin.

[Brian74]

I am also interested in the shaft extension. 

[Howard_Casto]

Well he mentions it's steel, but I'd like to know if it was specifically milled or what, because it looks suspiciously like something you could pick up at the hardware store and Logitech has used the same diameter shafts for ages, so it'd likely work for all of us. 

[SegaOutrun]

damn you. I was content with my wheel until i saw your steering shaft. The shaft on my Driving force gt is so small, my hands barely fit without hitting the base. excuse me while i take my wheel apart....sigh.

[Brian74]

damn you. I was content with my wheel until i saw your steering shaft. The shaft on my Driving force gt is so small, my hands barely fit without hitting the base. excuse me while i take my wheel apart....sigh.

 Here is how I did mine. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130821.msg1343586.html#msg1343586

[SegaOutrun]

damn you. I was content with my wheel until i saw your steering shaft. The shaft on my Driving force gt is so small, my hands barely fit without hitting the base. excuse me while i take my wheel apart....sigh.

 Here is how I did mine. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130821.msg1343586.html#msg1343586

Way out my budget. I just took my wheel apart. I think $5 worth of pipes and rivets is going to do the job for me.

[Howard_Casto]

I was thinking raid lowes and see what they've got in the fencing section.  If that doesn't work maybe sewer/drain pipe.  That stuff is unbelievably strong and yet easy to cut and adapt to different diameters. 

[vandale]

Yeah that looks pretty slick. 

What are you using for a shaft extension on the wheel?

Thanks. Using a 50mm steel exhaust tube that has been crushed at one end and flared at the other to ensure it is a tight press fit onto the Logitech shaft and inside the Logitech wheel. I have then drilled and bolted the hidden end behind the dash. Thinking I will rivet or pk the steering wheel end.

[vandale]

Great job as usual!

Did you paint the dash gloss black? I'm not sure if I should paint mine with gloss or satin.

Thanks. I painted it with a high gloss enamel with a wide fan spray head to try and get a finish that doesn't needed cutting and polishing. The trick was I used a filler primer and kept sanding it flat then re-primering then sanding again to give the black a nice even base. I was thinking of using matt to prevent too much reflection from the screen but then decided against it as I love the piano black look

[vandale]

damn you. I was content with my wheel until i saw your steering shaft. The shaft on my Driving force gt is so small, my hands barely fit without hitting the base. excuse me while i take my wheel apart....sigh.

Hehe, yes I had that issues on previous cabs and decided the extra work was well worth it in the end

[vandale]

damn you. I was content with my wheel until i saw your steering shaft. The shaft on my Driving force gt is so small, my hands barely fit without hitting the base. excuse me while i take my wheel apart....sigh.

 Here is how I did mine. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130821.msg1343586.html#msg1343586

Hi Brian, hows the cab coming along?

[Howard_Casto]

Yeah that looks pretty slick. 

What are you using for a shaft extension on the wheel?

Thanks. Using a 50mm steel exhaust tube that has been crushed at one end and flared at the other to ensure it is a tight press fit onto the Logitech shaft and inside the Logitech wheel. I have then drilled and bolted the hidden end behind the dash. Thinking I will rivet or pk the steering wheel end.

Hmm... so exhaust pipe huh.  I'm from WV... pretty sure it's a state law that I have at least a few car parts lying around... let me see what I can find. 

[vandale]

I just drilled and screwed the wheel end with a coarse threaded m5 screw, 4 of them. Done up very tight. I am surprised the plastic shaft didn't stress or whiten or crack so that's good. It feels nice and strong but I won't be pulling myself in and out of the cab with it as only original wheels can handle that and even some of those fail.

[BadMouth]

I thought it was exhaust pipe!

[Howard_Casto]

In regards to pulling yourself out of the cab.... if I were to do this mod, I would make my dash out of 3/4 inch plywood.  So if some idgit did that, the stress would be on the dash and not the wheel assembly. 

So did you cut the wheel or what?  I trying to understand exactly how you did this before I even attempt it. 

[Brian74]

damn you. I was content with my wheel until i saw your steering shaft. The shaft on my Driving force gt is so small, my hands barely fit without hitting the base. excuse me while i take my wheel apart....sigh.

 Here is how I did mine. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130821.msg1343586.html#msg1343586

Hi Brian, hows the cab coming along?

It is at a stand still  I had to rebuild the pc, the motherboard died. I have to fix the sides like you did, paint and the first cab is done. Just got the G25 for the 2nd cab, have the pc. Just need to find a screen and do the shaft extension. Have to admit, this is coming out very nice. 

[vandale]

Thanks Brian.

I am envious of your shaft extension. looks like it will run true and stand up strength wise. I am considering ripping mine out and copying yours....

[Brian74]

Thanks Brian.

I am envious of your shaft extension. looks like it will run true and stand up strength wise. I am considering ripping mine out and copying yours....

Thanks Vandale, I am jealous of your body work skills. You did a great job on those sides. Mine are in pretty tough shape also. I am going to have to copy how you did your seat.

[vandale]

Small update.

I ripped out the seat speakers as they were 8ohms. They are 3x5 inch oval and I cannot source these in NZ so I made a 3x5 plate and inserted a 3x3 4ohm speaker in it, didn't get any photos of that though. Installed both into the seat, sprayed the speaker mesh and reassembled. Also removed the original sega dash speakers and installed some fusion tweeters which I have wired in mono and run to the centre out put on the 5.1 amp. Extended all the speaker cables and ran them to the amp also. Installed the 5.1 driver and reduced the volume of the rears so all 6 speakers are normalised. Removed the sega sub from the seat and placed the sub and amp below here to allow the sound to travel through the seat for a better driving experience. Mounted the rubber floor mat and polished the stainless covers. Because I have not used the sega pedal box I may have to lay some more rubber mat below the pedals to prevent wear on the paint and also have the rubber mat flow nicer. Next step is to move the amp volume to a spot on the dash and install a neat dial for that and the bass adjustments.

Pics:

[Brian74]

I hope you have fans in the front and the back of that base. I had my pc in the same spot and it got pretty hot in there. Looking awesome!

[vandale]

I hope you have fans in the front and the back of that base. I had my pc in the same spot and it got pretty hot in there. Looking awesome!

Good point. I removed the 110v fans as they had bearing noise. I prefer a low voltage replacement as they are quiet. I will run 2x12 volt fans direct to the PC molex if it struggles with heat.

[Brian74]

How do you like the pedals at that angel? I removed mine from the housing and mounted them the same way. I think I need to angel mine more. They just dont feel right.

[vandale]

They feel great. I have a size 11 foot and I can rest my heals on the rubber mat and tap inbetween the brake and acc pedals without lifting my leg which works just like in my real life car which has a similar angle pedal assembly.

Cheers

[MrThunderwing]

Hey Vandale, this project looks really good. Can I ask you a very noobish question? What exactly are you doing when you say that you've 'bogged' the damage to the cracked plastic in the image below? Are you literally just using something like a soldering iron to weld the plastic back together and then sticking some kind of plastic filler over the top? (I'm not planning on building any arcade machines any time soon, but I do have a crack in the rear bumper of my car that would benefit from something like this)

Plastic welded and bogged the damage

[Andy_Bogard]

Congratulations Vandale for your work!
Did you keep the OPC-20 Ogura Clutch?
Mine just broke so I am looking for another one...
I tried to send you Pms but it did not work :-(
Thank you for your answer!

[Howard_Casto]

Actually you sent me PMs.  I wondered what that was about as I don't have that cab. 

[vandale]

Congratulations Vandale for your work!
Did you keep the OPC-20 Ogura Clutch?
Mine just broke so I am looking for another one...
I tried to send you Pms but it did not work :-(
Thank you for your answer!

Hi, yes its in my pile of metal that goes to the scrap dealer, where are you located?

[vandale]

Hey Vandale, this project looks really good. Can I ask you a very noobish question? What exactly are you doing when you say that you've 'bogged' the damage to the cracked plastic in the image below? Are you literally just using something like a soldering iron to weld the plastic back together and then sticking some kind of plastic filler over the top? (I'm not planning on building any arcade machines any time soon, but I do have a crack in the rear bumper of my car that would benefit from something like this)

Plastic welded and bogged the damage

Hi, yes melted and bogged, sanded, bog, sand, primer fill, sand, primer, sand, paint 3 coats.

[Malenko]

Actually you sent me PMs.  I wondered what that was about as I don't have that cab. 

I got em too

[Generic Eric]

Actually you sent me PMs.  I wondered what that was about as I don't have that cab. 

I got em too

I got one too.  It must have been a generic PM

[TIGER8855]

Congratulations Vandale for your work!
Did you keep the OPC-20 Ogura Clutch?
Mine just broke so I am looking for another one...
I tried to send you Pms but it did not work :-(
Thank you for your answer!

Hi, yes its in my pile of metal that goes to the scrap dealer, where are you located?

He is located in Belgium! I have one also but it's being sold with the steering assembly as a complete unit. Bit heavy to ship to Belgium.

[vandale]

I can sell it separately no probs, a lot cheaper to ship that way

[TIGER8855]

Plastic welded and bogged the damage


Hi, yes melted and bogged, sanded, bog, sand, primer fill, sand, primer, sand, paint 3 coats.

What brand/type primer did you use vandale?

I'm about to paint my side plastics and I have to use an aerosol can as I don't have a spray gun. I went to buy the primer and was surprised at what happened.

The first 2 stores I went to said that nothing would stick to the plastic? Another said they only knew one brand that works on plastic but it only had a few colors available. Then I said but can't I just get a plastic primer and then paint anything on top of that and the guy just repeated what he said about the one brand.

Another store had zinseer BIN which I've heard about and they guy said it "should work". The last store had a plastic primer but it was clear. My plastics are white and have severe yellowing where there was no sticker plus some bog work so I was hoping to use a white primer to cover that before the color coat.

So now I'm unsure what to do. I don't want to go and paint the whole side plastic only to find it didn't work right.

[Howard_Casto]

[offtopic]*sigh*  It would be nice to sleep....[/offtopic]

I would be interested in this as well, just for future reference. 

Things I do know:

Krylon makes a line of spray cans called "plasticoat" they are specifically designed for use on plastic, fiberglass and other non-metallic surfaces.  The stuff is a bit difficult to work with but it does work.  I used a little of it back in the day when I thought I was a case-modder.    The body filler might react differently to it though. 

To paint fiberglass and plastic in the automotive industry, they indeed do use a special primer.  I believe bulldog makes it.  The primer is more flexible so it prevents chipping and scratching.  There is a special procedure for painting though.  Generally you have to spray your paint over it while it's still tacky, but I'm not a body shop guy, so look it up. 

[vandale]

Hi guys. I used a spray can enamel called plastikote. Its a bog standard enamel spray can, same with the primer which was just named sand able primer by plastikote.

Howard, are your reffering to plastidip in a can, the spray on rubber stuff a lot of the car guys use to matt black there bonnets and wheels? If so then yes its a little difficult to work with but hard wearing and textured like the rubber coating on late model laptops etc. I chose not to use this as it takes a lot of cans to cover a small area with the 5 coats they recommend.

My advise is to use enamel in a can and ask for a spray nib that has a wide fan so you can get good coverage without line sin your paint. Allow it a week to dry in the sun or a warm room before handelling unless you want finger prints etc

Here is a link to the paint I used, not sure if you get it in the US. http://www.plasti-kote.co.uk/Product/pcode---4585/pccode---6751

Thanks

[Howard_Casto]

No that's the exact same thing I'm talking about. It's sold under the krylon brand here in the states... or at least it used to be (haven't bought some in some time, so maybe they branched off). 

*edit*

hmm either my memory is failing me or I've got it mixed up.  I have used plastikoat before and it works well, but the one I was thinking of is apparently called Krylon Fusion.  Long story short back when I used to use the stuff there were only one or two brands out there, but now that I'm looking today every major spray paint manufacturer seems to have their own version. 

[TIGER8855]

Thanks for the info vandale! I will give plastikote a go if I can get it here.

I also found rustoleum which is meant to work well with plastic. I will use this if I can't find plastikote.

[Andy_Bogard]

Vandale I sent you a PM!

[BC_Jeffro]

nice work !