Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up Try the site in https mode Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: I hope I'm in the right place!  (Read 10123 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

PwnFx

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13
  • Last login:March 15, 2014, 11:20:47 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
I hope I'm in the right place!
« on: February 26, 2014, 02:16:09 pm »
Hello ladies and gents of arcadecontrols. I've had the idea of building a so-called "mame" cabinet for my step-son for his birthday. I have the computer, I've tinkered with various emulator setups, I have a 23" lcd monitor, I've used google sketchup to draw a rough outline of how I'd like the cabinet to look.
The few issues I've faced here is doing it on a budget, it will be used by him and all of his friends so it will take some abuse, they're rough kids, and I could build a virtually indestructible machine, or I could build one on the cheap. I prefer the cheap route, as I'm not the wealthiest man alive. I've briefly read through guides and tutorials, did a lot of google work, and watched a bunch of hour long multi-series youtube videos of people building and designing their cabs.
My two obstacles right now are: Controls, and sound.
Before I get into the questions, first I'll give a little bit of information on my forecast for the project as a whole.
Linked are pictures of my sketchup model and what I'm hoping to achieve with it.
http://oi58.tinypic.com/2wfsmja.jpg
http://oi59.tinypic.com/2w7h7hk.jpg
http://oi57.tinypic.com/qxwap0.jpg
As you can see from the pictures, I am seeking two players, mounted speakers, a sliding keyboard tray, an opening for the computer, or possibly an opening door. Since it will be for the kids to play, I'm not going to bother with coin slots or anything extra like that.

Do any experienced builders see any potential problems with the basic design of the thing? I build a lot of my own things from wood, my uncle does woodworking for a living so we will be building it properly, I'm just curious if there's any obvious flaws in my plan.

Now onto the controls part: I've been in contact with a seller on ebay (ebay is easy to work with, and easy to contact the sellers, so I started there) about a set of controls. I don't know much, better yet, anything about arcade controls, all I know is that I want the cheapest "all-in-one" solution out there, but not so cheap that it'll be broken before I even assemble it. This is the product page for what I was recommended by the seller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221281135290 (I hope this is allowed to post ebay links)

My other major (probably minor) issue I've encountered is what do I do for sound? I know I need speakers (would prefer cheap, partially because I'm doing this on a budget, partially because it'll give a nice crappy arcade-like sound), I know I need an amplifier for the speakers, and I know I need a power source, I've looked and asked around, but overall, I've just hit brick walls when it comes to the sound aspect of the whole thing. I'd like to keep this as cheap as possible, but still have mountable speakers that are visible.
The only thing I have come up with is using this powered amp: http://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-LP-2020A-Lepai-Amplifier-Shipping/dp/B00C2P61FO/ref=sr11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393382566&sr=1-1&keywords=audio+mini+amplifier+with+power+supply
With a set of car speakers rated for low RMS watts within the guidelines of the above listed amp, only problem with that is, I can't find a set of car speakers that are that low for a set of two.

[edit] You will also see that I have no cutout for a marquee, that's simply because I don't know enough about the type of glass to be used, and the cost of it. I know that plexiglass is pricy, other than that, I more or less disregarded the idea of a marquee because of the potential cost.

I've been trying to decide also what type of wood to use, whether I use mdf, melamine, or plywood, people have said melamine for it's durability, but if I get a nice plywood, it seems they're in the same area as far as cost vs. durability.

I've been over thinking and under utilizing my brainpower, so hopefully I can get some things cleared up that are most likely just beginner mistakes and issues.

Thank you in advance!
« Last Edit: February 26, 2014, 02:18:28 pm by PwnFx »

Generic Eric

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4520
  • Last login:July 15, 2024, 09:18:25 pm
  • Restore! Don't maim for MAME, build from scratch!
    • forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,143226.0.html
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2014, 02:36:47 pm »
My advice would be to add some bracing to support the two vertical sides.  Cross beams.  Make sure it is supported well in the base.  *shrug*
It looks like it might be prone to flexing.

Best wishes

Unstupid

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 997
  • Last login:September 08, 2021, 08:46:34 am
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2014, 02:38:09 pm »
Your design looks good, just a little out of proportion.  The controls look awfully high.  As far as speakers go, check out partsexpress.com.  look for "full range" speakers that can run on the low wattage, high ohm output of that amp.   I'd also ditch the keyboard tray.  It's not worth the extra headache.

JDFan

  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3448
  • Last login:March 03, 2025, 10:29:54 am
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2014, 03:04:19 pm »
The controls you linked should work fine The happ buttons and competition joysticks are a good balance between performance and price for all around performance and hold up well (I purchased a similar set of buttons from the same seller and they shipped promptly and everything arrived in good working shape and the colors for the buttons were what was ordered (just be sure to list the colors you want on the order invoice or send them an E-mail with the colors ( I forgot to put it in when placing the order but sent an e-mail and they did package it correctly)

One thing to note is the Xin-mo encoder shows up as a 2 gamepads in windows rather than a keyboard encoder so does take a small amount of setting things up for MAME but it only takes a few extra minutes but there may be a few PC games that do not offer gamepad support so might require other software (ie. joy2key) to get working properly depending on what you plan on installing other than MAME. (not really an issue but can take some setup time and testing so figured I'd mention it)

For the sound the amp you linked is what many people use along with a set of car speakers (Like these for $13 each - http://www.amazon.com/Power-Acoustik-XPS-104-Midbass-Midrange/dp/B000AQ8OFC/ref=sr_1_63?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393444004&sr=1-63&keywords=car+speakers ) but another option since you are using a PC would be using the sound system of the computer along with a set of PC speakers as they can usually be found at a local thrift store cheaply and include all of the power and amplifier parts in the package. (can usually either leave them as is or remove them from the cases and mount the parts as needed.)

PwnFx

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13
  • Last login:March 15, 2014, 11:20:47 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2014, 03:08:06 pm »
My advice would be to add some bracing to support the two vertical sides.  Cross beams.  Make sure it is supported well in the base.  *shrug*
It looks like it might be prone to flexing.

Best wishes
Well, I'm glad I posted in the proper place, at least I did one thing right!
Yes, yes, braces are intended, I just didn't feel it were necessary to include them in my first rough sketch.  :D

Your design looks good, just a little out of proportion.  The controls look awfully high.  As far as speakers go, check out partsexpress.com.  look for "full range" speakers that can run on the low wattage, high ohm output of that amp.   I'd also ditch the keyboard tray.  It's not worth the extra headache.
I have it set so high because it will be used mostly while sitting on a stool or a higher chair, but also can be played by an adult while standing. The top of the control panel in the sketch at the lowest part of the angle near the front sits roughly 41" high, what seems to be the standard height for control panels?
Why do you think the keyboard tray will be such a headache? I only intend to include a keyboard tray because the computer will also be used for other games like minecraft and whatever else him and his friends play, it was only included so he doesn't require an additional table or area to have the keyboard and mouse setting. I will admit it is slightly out of proportion, but that is mostly due to the fact that it was a rough sketch of the overall design.
Do you think that amplifier will be an acceptable solution, so long as I can find speakers appropriate for it?
Thank you guys for your input!

The controls you linked should work fine The happ buttons and competition joysticks are a good balance between performance and price for all around performance and hold up well (I purchased a similar set of buttons from the same seller and they shipped promptly and everything arrived in good working shape and the colors for the buttons were what was ordered (just be sure to list the colors you want on the order invoice or send them an E-mail with the colors ( I forgot to put it in when placing the order but sent an e-mail and they did package it correctly)

One thing to note is the Xin-mo encoder shows up as a 2 gamepads in windows rather than a keyboard encoder so does take a small amount of setting things up for MAME but it only takes a few extra minutes but there may be a few PC games that do not offer gamepad support so might require other software (ie. joy2key) to get working properly depending on what you plan on installing other than MAME. (not really an issue but can take some setup time and testing so figured I'd mention it)

For the sound the amp you linked is what many people use along with a set of car speakers (Like these for $13 each - http://www.amazon.com/Power-Acoustik-XPS-104-Midbass-Midrange/dp/B000AQ8OFC/ref=sr_1_63?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393444004&sr=1-63&keywords=car+speakers ) but another option since you are using a PC would be using the sound system of the computer along with a set of PC speakers as they can usually be found at a local thrift store cheaply and include all of the power and amplifier parts in the package. (can usually either leave them as is or remove them from the cases and mount the parts as needed.)
Other than mame, I was thinking about using (hyperspin?), I have no problem configuring the controls through joy2key or similar, but is there another solution available that makes it easier, while staying within a close price range of those controls listed?

As far as the speakers go, I'd rather not use PC speakers, mostly because of the size of them, unless I buy a larger set of speakers. I just feel as if it will be a bit of a hassle to disassemble and jury-rig it to the cabinet.
Thank you for your help! You guys have shed light on things already, that I've spent hours searching and getting no results.
« Last Edit: February 26, 2014, 03:14:02 pm by PwnFx »

EMDB

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 865
  • Last login:September 05, 2023, 09:18:51 am
  • Project RetroCade
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2014, 03:48:13 pm »
Nice start. The controls seem okay for your purpose. The control panel seems a bit high and maybe a just a bit too steep angle.

The monitor should be angled a bit (move the upper part to the back) as you look towards it from above and not straight from the front.

I would remove the bottom front part (below the control panel). It will make it easier to play standing up without constantly kicking the cabinet. The keyboard drawer might not be necessary but if you want to keep it you could limit its height a bit so it will not stand out so much.

Maybe increase the front plate above the speakers and add a marquee. It's not so expensive (some plexi glass and a light source) but gives your cabinet a much nicer look.

Car speakers will do just fine.

Some of the above comments are personal taste. Mine is based on my current build:

 


« Last Edit: February 26, 2014, 04:18:22 pm by EMDB »

Drnick

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1642
  • Last login:June 21, 2024, 03:32:31 pm
  • Plodding Through Life
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2014, 03:55:57 pm »
Your design looks good, just a little out of proportion.  The controls look awfully high.  As far as speakers go, check out partsexpress.com.  look for "full range" speakers that can run on the low wattage, high ohm output of that amp.   I'd also ditch the keyboard tray.  It's not worth the extra headache.
I have it set so high because it will be used mostly while sitting on a stool or a higher chair, but also can be played by an adult while standing. The top of the control panel in the sketch at the lowest part of the angle near the front sits roughly 41" high, what seems to be the standard height for control panels?
Why do you think the keyboard tray will be such a headache? I only intend to include a keyboard tray because the computer will also be used for other games like minecraft and whatever else him and his friends play, it was only included so he doesn't require an additional table or area to have the keyboard and mouse setting. I will admit it is slightly out of proportion, but that is mostly due to the fact that it was a rough sketch of the overall design.
Do you think that amplifier will be an acceptable solution, so long as I can find speakers appropriate for it?
Thank you guys for your input!

The controls you linked should work fine The happ buttons and competition joysticks are a good balance between performance and price for all around performance and hold up well (I purchased a similar set of buttons from the same seller and they shipped promptly and everything arrived in good working shape and the colors for the buttons were what was ordered (just be sure to list the colors you want on the order invoice or send them an E-mail with the colors ( I forgot to put it in when placing the order but sent an e-mail and they did package it correctly)

One thing to note is the Xin-mo encoder shows up as a 2 gamepads in windows rather than a keyboard encoder so does take a small amount of setting things up for MAME but it only takes a few extra minutes but there may be a few PC games that do not offer gamepad support so might require other software (ie. joy2key) to get working properly depending on what you plan on installing other than MAME. (not really an issue but can take some setup time and testing so figured I'd mention it)

Other than mame, I was thinking about using (hyperspin?), I have no problem configuring the controls through joy2key or similar, but is there another solution available that makes it easier, while staying within a close price range of those controls listed?

Thank you for your help! You guys have shed light on things already, that I've spent hours searching and getting no results.

[edit] You will also see that I have no cutout for a marquee, that's simply because I don't know enough about the type of glass to be used, and the cost of it. I know that plexiglass is pricy, other than that, I more or less disregarded the idea of a marquee because of the potential cost.

I've been trying to decide also what type of wood to use, whether I use mdf, melamine, or plywood, people have said melamine for it's durability, but if I get a nice plywood, it seems they're in the same area as far as cost vs. durability.

I've been over thinking and under utilizing my brainpower, so hopefully I can get some things cleared up that are most likely just beginner mistakes and issues.

1) Height,  I have mine at 36" Works perfectly sitting on a barstool or standing, Has been played by People of height range 5Ft to 6ft 6 and all played comfortably sitting or standing. (Although they did want a little more shoulder room)  :laugh2: Keyboard tray is fine as the machine is going to be Multi purpose, I presume you will put a board on rails so you can slide it out to a comfortable location. 

2) Controls, Xin-mo I also have one of these seems OK in all the standard emulators, Well those that play nicely with a standard stick and 6 buttons, So everything up to Snes/Genesis There does seem to be an incompatibility with Hyperspin though. I read yesterday that Gamepad encoders/Joysticks do not work at all (Not sure about this as I have them working) But the fix is to use Joy2Key.  Along with this I know you cannot use 2 joystick/pad buttons at same time to exit screens in hyperspin (Chances are its related to joystick not working properly) This means If you are going for 6 button layout you will want to buy 2 extra Buttons (Well you only need 1 but you may as well make things even) These you can assign to start and Escape in hyperspin.  I went with some 8mm momentary switches  One red One Green. They cost about $2  You may be able to get round this with the use of Joy2Key though.

3) Plexi/lexan is not that expensive, If you can find a large picture frame that has plexi/lexan you can use this for the marquee area, It's what I did.  Even if you don't have a marquee I would double the height of the marquee area.  You could always leave it open for storage of game controllers and the like.

4) If you are confident with your woodworking/Finishing/Painting go with the Ply, Most melamine seems a little fragile to me, well for a full sized unit anyway.  It would probably be OK with a nice sturdy frame to attach to, and It does have a lovely clean finish which will save you time and money on the finishing/painting.

5) No such thing as "over-thinking" when building your own arcade controls. It's when you don't think enough that you end up with problems  :laugh2:

I would also recommend building some kind of bezel to hide the TV  It makes a world of difference to the overall finish, You don't have to have glass in front of that but it does top it off nicely and you could always add it later.


PwnFx

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13
  • Last login:March 15, 2014, 11:20:47 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2014, 04:45:32 pm »
1) Height,  I have mine at 36" Works perfectly sitting on a barstool or standing, Has been played by People of height range 5Ft to 6ft 6 and all played comfortably sitting or standing. (Although they did want a little more shoulder room)  :laugh2: Keyboard tray is fine as the machine is going to be Multi purpose, I presume you will put a board on rails so you can slide it out to a comfortable location. 

2) Controls, Xin-mo I also have one of these seems OK in all the standard emulators, Well those that play nicely with a standard stick and 6 buttons, So everything up to Snes/Genesis There does seem to be an incompatibility with Hyperspin though. I read yesterday that Gamepad encoders/Joysticks do not work at all (Not sure about this as I have them working) But the fix is to use Joy2Key.  Along with this I know you cannot use 2 joystick/pad buttons at same time to exit screens in hyperspin (Chances are its related to joystick not working properly) This means If you are going for 6 button layout you will want to buy 2 extra Buttons (Well you only need 1 but you may as well make things even) These you can assign to start and Escape in hyperspin.  I went with some 8mm momentary switches  One red One Green. They cost about $2  You may be able to get round this with the use of Joy2Key though.

3) Plexi/lexan is not that expensive, If you can find a large picture frame that has plexi/lexan you can use this for the marquee area, It's what I did.  Even if you don't have a marquee I would double the height of the marquee area.  You could always leave it open for storage of game controllers and the like.

4) If you are confident with your woodworking/Finishing/Painting go with the Ply, Most melamine seems a little fragile to me, well for a full sized unit anyway.  It would probably be OK with a nice sturdy frame to attach to, and It does have a lovely clean finish which will save you time and money on the finishing/painting.

5) No such thing as "over-thinking" when building your own arcade controls. It's when you don't think enough that you end up with problems  :laugh2:

I would also recommend building some kind of bezel to hide the TV  It makes a world of difference to the overall finish, You don't have to have glass in front of that but it does top it off nicely and you could always add it later.

1. Yes, the keyboard tray will be on a set of sliding rails that I kept from my old computer desk before I built my own. So it will tuck away nicely out of place.
I'll have to re-draw the whole configuration a few more times to get it just right, but like I've said, this was just a rough draft as a starting point. I'll see what I can do working with 36".

2. What other options do I have within a close price range? Other than the "Xin-mo"? I'll most likely already be using joy2key or other keymapping software, because I play a few games with a Game-Elements GGE909 controller, which I prefer a controller to arcade controls, but when having a machine configured to be played as an arcade machine, I might as well play my games there rather than my own computer.

3. Storage for controllers sounds like a nice idea. What are the common dimensions for the marquee "glass"? I've looked at local hardware stores for plexiglass and even for smaller pieces like 36x48 it's $32. I've never bought plexiglass though, so I don't know whether you can buy a custom size at homedepot/lowes/etc. But then again, I'm trying to be as low budget as possible, so I still may avoid this.

4. I am absolutely confident with it, and painting/finishing it is not a problem, I've been building and painting things for a while now, I just built new kitchen paneling out of pallet wood, and that was quite a battle with how rough it is, but in the end it was really no problem.

I was considering some sort of cover for the screen, and I know it will give a nicer overall finish, but again, money is tight, in the future I will most likely add it, because yes, being able to see the outer frame of the monitor is unappealing.

Thank you so much for your input, my scrabble brain pieces are starting to inch closer together based on everything you guys are feeding me. It's difficult to plan this out as a beginner, and on my own.


Nice start. The controls seem okay for your purpose. The control panel seems a bit high and maybe a just a bit too steep angle.

The monitor should be angled a bit (move the upper part to the back) as you look towards it from above and not straight from the front.

I would remove the bottom front part (below the control panel). It will make it easier to play standing up without constantly kicking the cabinet. The keyboard drawer might not be necessary but if you want to keep it you could limit its height a bit so it will not stand out so much.

Maybe increase the front plate above the speakers and add a marquee. It's not so expensive (some plexi glass and a light source) but gives your cabinet a much nicer look.

Car speakers will do just fine.

Some of the above comments are personal taste. Mine is based on my current build:

 

The control panel is only at a 10 degree angle, based on the sketch, which I took that "happy-medium" from other sketchup files that I measured the angle of their control panels. Is that really too steep?

I did have it angled back more originally, but then I thought that because a short kid would be using it mostly, that it may be better off being more "head-on", but I left it this way intentionally to see if it would actually be noticed. I want my sketch to be nit picked in every way possible so that in the end I build the best cabinet.

The bottom part, I configured this way intentionally, it leaves space underneath for feet to find their way to, and the angled section above it gives the kids a place to rest their feet while sitting, they usually sit in a chair in front of the living room tv and they lean their chair back so their feet can reach a shelf on the tv stand, I thought by doing it that way, I could avoid a potential chair tip on concrete (as it's going in a partially finished basement). --> http://i58.tinypic.com/z0tmx.png

When you say increase the front plate, do you mean where the actual marquee would be?

That is a nice cabinet you have there, do you happen to have any of the build progress on it? I'd really love to see the way it all came together!
[edit] Just saw the link in your signature! I'll have a look over it!

As far as painting/finishing, I didn't plan on doing any fancy decals, or T-Molding, partially to save money, and as far as painting goes, the kids have wanted something "galaxy" themed since I started working on the basement, and I was hoping to give it a paint job to look something like this: http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/57/b3/bc/57b3bc7238beaa197a4657e0a830362c.jpg - The reason I wanted to avoid T-Molding is because of two reasons, I don't know how much the T-Molding actually costs to cover something of this size, and also because I don't know what router bit to use, or how much it costs.

Again, thank you all for your input, it's helping bring clarity to my project! This is a great community here and I'm glad to be a part of it!
« Last Edit: February 26, 2014, 04:49:27 pm by PwnFx »

EMDB

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 865
  • Last login:September 05, 2023, 09:18:51 am
  • Project RetroCade
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #8 on: February 26, 2014, 05:23:30 pm »
The control panel is only at a 10 degree angle, based on the sketch, which I took that "happy-medium" from other sketchup files that I measured the angle of their control panels. Is that really too steep?
Than it probably just looks steeper. Mine is 11 degrees and perfectly fine.

I did have it angled back more originally, but then I thought that because a short kid would be using it mostly, that it may be better off being more "head-on", but I left it this way intentionally to see if it would actually be noticed. I want my sketch to be nit picked in every way possible so that in the end I build the best cabinet.
Try it by connecting a monitor to a pc. Simulate your cab plans by putting the monitor on a table and a stack of books, use a keyboard as control panel, also put that on the planned height and angle. Try different angles and heights when standing or sitting in front of it.

When you say increase the front plate, do you mean where the actual marquee would be?
Yes and add an actual marquee ;-)

As far as painting/finishing, I didn't plan on doing any fancy decals, or T-Molding, partially to save money, and as far as painting goes, the kids have wanted something "galaxy" themed since I started working on the basement, and I was hoping to give it a paint job to look something like this: http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/57/b3/bc/57b3bc7238beaa197a4657e0a830362c.jpg - The reason I wanted to avoid T-Molding is because of two reasons, I don't know how much the T-Molding actually costs to cover something of this size, and also because I don't know what router bit to use, or how much it costs.
You can round the edges and paint instead of adding t-molding. I would rather paint the cab fully black and add details like a marquee than have such notable 'artwork' all the way around.

PwnFx

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13
  • Last login:March 15, 2014, 11:20:47 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #9 on: February 26, 2014, 07:45:18 pm »
So here's a few questions that I still have:
1. Is there a better solution for the control setup that stays close to the price range of $65 USD? Something that operates as a keyboard rather than gamepad.
2. The speakers suggested by JDFan (http://www.amazon.com/Power-Acoustik-XPS-104-Midbass-Midrange/dp/B000AQ8OFC/ref=sr_1_63?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393444004&sr=1-63&keywords=car+speakers) - They're rated for 60w RMS each as I understand from the manufacture website, which exceeds the overall 40w rms rating for the amplifier (2x20 RMS), I'm not too audio savvy, so I really don't know the whole amp vs. speaker rms rating ordeal, but couldn't that be problematic?
3. What are some common dimensions for the marquee glass?
4. When using T-Molding, where do I buy from? Approximately how much will be needed? What router bit do I buy? I'll most likely be using 3/4" plywood.
5. For "clone cutting" the side panels when I get down to routing them, what kind of bit do I need for that? (I don't own a router, never used one yet, sorry if this is common knowledge stuff).
6. Am I missing any important steps?
7. What is the common height of an arcade machine? My sketch sits at 70" high, should I add or remove any height?


Thank you so much guys, you guys are a huge help!

Unstupid

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 997
  • Last login:September 08, 2021, 08:46:34 am
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2014, 03:24:32 am »
For bargain basement speakers that'll better match your amp check out these: http://www.parts-express.com/visaton-r10sc-4-full-range-speaker-8-ohm--292-597

I've used visaton speakers in my cab builds in the past and they sound good.  These ones have a wider range frequency response if 100-13k, run 8 ohm and are rated at 20watt (30max). 
« Last Edit: February 27, 2014, 03:33:23 am by Unstupid »

EMDB

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 865
  • Last login:September 05, 2023, 09:18:51 am
  • Project RetroCade
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2014, 05:00:47 am »
So here's a few questions that I still have:
1. Is there a better solution for the control setup that stays close to the price range of $65 USD? Something that operates as a keyboard rather than gamepad.
2. The speakers suggested by JDFan (http://www.amazon.com/Power-Acoustik-XPS-104-Midbass-Midrange/dp/B000AQ8OFC/ref=sr_1_63?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393444004&sr=1-63&keywords=car+speakers) - They're rated for 60w RMS each as I understand from the manufacture website, which exceeds the overall 40w rms rating for the amplifier (2x20 RMS), I'm not too audio savvy, so I really don't know the whole amp vs. speaker rms rating ordeal, but couldn't that be problematic?
3. What are some common dimensions for the marquee glass?
4. When using T-Molding, where do I buy from? Approximately how much will be needed? What router bit do I buy? I'll most likely be using 3/4" plywood.
5. For "clone cutting" the side panels when I get down to routing them, what kind of bit do I need for that? (I don't own a router, never used one yet, sorry if this is common knowledge stuff).
6. Am I missing any important steps?
7. What is the common height of an arcade machine? My sketch sits at 70" high, should I add or remove any height?


Thank you so much guys, you guys are a huge help!
I see the BYOAC virus already got you and made you look into t-molding, marquees and keyboard encoders  ::)

Drnick

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1642
  • Last login:June 21, 2024, 03:32:31 pm
  • Plodding Through Life
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #12 on: February 27, 2014, 08:05:58 am »
So here's a few questions that I still have:
1. Is there a better solution for the control setup that stays close to the price range of $65 USD? Something that operates as a keyboard rather than gamepad.
2. The speakers suggested by JDFan (http://www.amazon.com/Power-Acoustik-XPS-104-Midbass-Midrange/dp/B000AQ8OFC/ref=sr_1_63?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393444004&sr=1-63&keywords=car+speakers) - They're rated for 60w RMS each as I understand from the manufacture website, which exceeds the overall 40w rms rating for the amplifier (2x20 RMS), I'm not too audio savvy, so I really don't know the whole amp vs. speaker rms rating ordeal, but couldn't that be problematic?
3. What are some common dimensions for the marquee glass?
4. When using T-Molding, where do I buy from? Approximately how much will be needed? What router bit do I buy? I'll most likely be using 3/4" plywood.
5. For "clone cutting" the side panels when I get down to routing them, what kind of bit do I need for that? (I don't own a router, never used one yet, sorry if this is common knowledge stuff).
6. Am I missing any important steps?
7. What is the common height of an arcade machine? My sketch sits at 70" high, should I add or remove any height?


Thank you so much guys, you guys are a huge help!

1) Kade controller possibly, but I can't be sure as you would have to source the joysticks and buttons separately http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,128745.msg1316035.html#msg1316035
2) Yes and no, somewhere should be a nominal value, the 60RMS is peak. Most likely they would be fine but I see someone else has given a closer match to amp
3) this varies from machine to machine to machine,  It wants to look in proportion to the rest of the machine though
4) Tmolding.com  They do plenty of 3/4" Tmolding also do the router bit, just check you get the right size for the barb on the tmolding you use
5) Pattern bit at least 3/4" in length (They do them with top and bottom mounted bearings, the bearing runs along the piece you want to clone)
6) I don't see anything you have overlooked yet.  Have you got Templates for your joystick and buttons from Slagcoin yet?
7) Once again varies, anywhere between 30 and 40,  I still vote for around 36"  :laugh2:

PwnFx

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13
  • Last login:March 15, 2014, 11:20:47 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #13 on: February 27, 2014, 05:53:56 pm »
I see the BYOAC virus already got you and made you look into t-molding, marquees and keyboard encoders  ::)
Yes, indeed!
For bargain basement speakers that'll better match your amp check out these: http://www.parts-express.com/visaton-r10sc-4-full-range-speaker-8-ohm--292-597

I've used visaton speakers in my cab builds in the past and they sound good.  These ones have a wider range frequency response if 100-13k, run 8 ohm and are rated at 20watt (30max).
Thank you, shipping brings a set of two to be over $30, which is a bit over budget, it's so hard to get all of the proper parts within a budget, I really need to get some more money to fund this project!


1) Kade controller possibly, but I can't be sure as you would have to source the joysticks and buttons separately http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,128745.msg1316035.html#msg1316035
2) Yes and no, somewhere should be a nominal value, the 60RMS is peak. Most likely they would be fine but I see someone else has given a closer match to amp
3) this varies from machine to machine to machine,  It wants to look in proportion to the rest of the machine though
4) Tmolding.com  They do plenty of 3/4" Tmolding also do the router bit, just check you get the right size for the barb on the tmolding you use
5) Pattern bit at least 3/4" in length (They do them with top and bottom mounted bearings, the bearing runs along the piece you want to clone)
6) I don't see anything you have overlooked yet.  Have you got Templates for your joystick and buttons from Slagcoin yet?
7) Once again varies, anywhere between 30 and 40,  I still vote for around 36"  :laugh2:


1. Kade seems to only offer a single player solution, their two player 6 button each setup appears to require two of their chips. Or did I read wrong?
2. What does peak mean? I really don't know very much about audio equipment, sorry for my lack of knowledge.
3. Okay, I was just trying to get a rough size to try and get an idea of the price for the piece of glass.
4. What do you mean "the right size for the barb"?
5. Thank you. :)
6. I have not, I'm having a look now as I type this out, thank you very much. I was curious as to how to figure out the placement of those, very useful tip!
7. I've settled on 36" for the control panel, but I mean the overall height of the entire machine.

Thank you guys :)

DeLuSioNal29

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+6)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4779
  • Last login:July 11, 2025, 09:17:44 am
  • Build the impossible -"There is no Spoon"
    • DeLuSioNaL's YouTube Videos
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #14 on: February 27, 2014, 06:26:57 pm »
You may want to re-consider and not use "Zippy" brand switches.  They are loud as heck, and with your open end design, will be even louder.  However, you could always use them for now and upgrade them in the future to something quieter such as the microleaf switches over at GroovyGameGear.com :  http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=309

As far as PC speakers go:  I have mine mounted with the casing and everything right over my speaker ports.  Then I have a speaker grill covering the holes.  The key is to find 2.1 speakers that have a separate "controller" for the volume, so that you can mount it on under the control panel.   (no de-casing needed!)  :applaud:

http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-Computer-Speakers-CA-3090/dp/B00006B9W1/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1393543509&sr=8-7&keywords=2.1+speakers

DeLuSioNaL29
« Last Edit: February 27, 2014, 06:31:03 pm by DeLuSioNal29 »
Stop by my Youtube channel and leave a comment:

PL1

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9672
  • Last login:Today at 07:30:55 pm
  • Designated spam hunter
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #15 on: February 27, 2014, 08:01:27 pm »
1. Kade seems to only offer a single player solution, their two player 6 button each setup appears to require two of their chips. Or did I read wrong?
There is an extended mode firmware that supports 26 functions.

This requires some "backward wiring" of the joysticks and the admin buttons, as shown below. (If you want to use Goldleaf, Sanwa or Seimitsu 2-terminal buttons, you can do the fancy wiring using diodes.)

You can also add more "shifted inputs" using HWB, if needed.



More details and two other options for KADE shifted functions here.


Scott

PwnFx

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13
  • Last login:March 15, 2014, 11:20:47 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #16 on: February 27, 2014, 08:07:05 pm »
You may want to re-consider and not use "Zippy" brand switches.  They are loud as heck, and with your open end design, will be even louder.  However, you could always use them for now and upgrade them in the future to something quieter such as the microleaf switches over at GroovyGameGear.com :  http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=309

As far as PC speakers go:  I have mine mounted with the casing and everything right over my speaker ports.  Then I have a speaker grill covering the holes.  The key is to find 2.1 speakers that have a separate "controller" for the volume, so that you can mount it on under the control panel.   (no de-casing needed!)  :applaud:

http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-Computer-Speakers-CA-3090/dp/B00006B9W1/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1393543509&sr=8-7&keywords=2.1+speakers

DeLuSioNaL29

Hey, I just watched your youtube video and that's a very nice looking cabinet! Do you have a thread or anywhere with pictures of your setup, including where your speakers are located?

1. Kade seems to only offer a single player solution, their two player 6 button each setup appears to require two of their chips. Or did I read wrong?
There is an extended mode firmware that supports 26 functions.

This requires some "backward wiring" of the joysticks and the admin buttons, as shown below. (If you want to use Goldleaf, Sanwa or Seimitsu 2-terminal buttons, you can do the fancy wiring using diodes.)

You can also add more "shifted inputs" using HWB, if needed.



More details and two other options for KADE shifted functions here.


Scott

Sorry, I didn't see your reply when I posted this!
That seems a little complex for me, I know very little about wiring things together, I was really hoping for a fairly easy hardware setup, that requires little trial and error. I keep reading about this "ipac" thing, is it a good option? I know it's a little bit pricy, but if it's easier to setup, wouldn't it be a better route for me?

Thank you.

Thank you! A subwoofer would be a nice addition to the whole setup.
« Last Edit: February 27, 2014, 11:22:45 pm by PwnFx »

PL1

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9672
  • Last login:Today at 07:30:55 pm
  • Designated spam hunter
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #17 on: February 28, 2014, 12:08:05 am »
That seems a little complex for me, I know very little about wiring things together, I was really hoping for a fairly easy hardware setup, that requires little trial and error. I keep reading about this "ipac" thing, is it a good option? I know it's a little bit pricy, but if it's easier to setup, wouldn't it be a better route for me?

It's not as complicated as it looks -- that's over half the wiring for the entire control panel.

If there's a dot where wires cross, that indicates a connection.  No dot = no connection.

The difference between KADE Extended Mode wiring and IPac wiring is that the 6 switches in the middle and right would only have 1 wire going to the encoder input instead of the two wires coming from the switches on the left.

That's a total of 20 straight wires, 6 Y's, and 26 daisy-chained grounds for KADE versus of 26 straight wires and 26 daisy-chained grounds for the IPac -- not a lot more effort IMHO.   ;D

Attached pics show one of the Y's installed on a joystick.

If you prefer, you could also use "shifted functions" for your admin functions.


Scott
« Last Edit: February 28, 2014, 12:44:59 am by PL1 »

PwnFx

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13
  • Last login:March 15, 2014, 11:20:47 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #18 on: February 28, 2014, 05:23:35 pm »
That seems a little complex for me, I know very little about wiring things together, I was really hoping for a fairly easy hardware setup, that requires little trial and error. I keep reading about this "ipac" thing, is it a good option? I know it's a little bit pricy, but if it's easier to setup, wouldn't it be a better route for me?

It's not as complicated as it looks -- that's over half the wiring for the entire control panel.

If there's a dot where wires cross, that indicates a connection.  No dot = no connection.

The difference between KADE Extended Mode wiring and IPac wiring is that the 6 switches in the middle and right would only have 1 wire going to the encoder input instead of the two wires coming from the switches on the left.

That's a total of 20 straight wires, 6 Y's, and 26 daisy-chained grounds for KADE versus of 26 straight wires and 26 daisy-chained grounds for the IPac -- not a lot more effort IMHO.   ;D

Attached pics show one of the Y's installed on a joystick.

If you prefer, you could also use "shifted functions" for your admin functions.


Scott

Which of the KADE devices should I actually be looking at when thinking of purchasing? They have a few different products ranging from $15-$55.

EMDB

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 865
  • Last login:September 05, 2023, 09:18:51 am
  • Project RetroCade
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #19 on: February 28, 2014, 05:29:35 pm »
Which of the KADE devices should I actually be looking at when thinking of purchasing? They have a few different products ranging from $15-$55.
You could also use an I-PAC2. 32 inputs + volume control + power control , shifted functions and easy programmable (default MAME keys are pre-programmed) for $39:


PwnFx

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13
  • Last login:March 15, 2014, 11:20:47 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #20 on: February 28, 2014, 05:32:07 pm »
Which of the KADE devices should I actually be looking at when thinking of purchasing? They have a few different products ranging from $15-$55.
You could also use an I-PAC2. 32 inputs + volume control + power control , shifted functions and easy programmable (default MAME keys are pre-programmed) for $39:



That's what I was thinking, it seems the KADE solution is going to require the $55 purchase. No matter the route I go for the encoder, which route should I go for the buttons/joysticks? I've been continuing to look around ebay for the cheapest "all-in-one" setup so I don't have to order pieces individually, and this seems to be a fair option: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Arcade-JAMMA-60-in-1-Kit-w-2-Joysticks-4-8-way-16-Push-Buttons-MAME-/251336973880?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a84d9de38
But then again, I really have no clue what I'm looking for here.

Thank you guys.

PL1

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9672
  • Last login:Today at 07:30:55 pm
  • Designated spam hunter
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #21 on: February 28, 2014, 05:42:19 pm »
Which of the KADE devices should I actually be looking at when thinking of purchasing? They have a few different products ranging from $15-$55.

The $29 miniArcade is probably your best option, but if you're handy with a soldering iron, the $22 complete kit is an option.

The Minimus AVR is the same AVR controller, but you don't get the screw terminals.


Scott
« Last Edit: February 28, 2014, 05:43:59 pm by PL1 »

PL1

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9672
  • Last login:Today at 07:30:55 pm
  • Designated spam hunter
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #22 on: February 28, 2014, 06:03:24 pm »
I've been continuing to look around ebay for the cheapest "all-in-one" setup so I don't have to order pieces individually, and this seems to be a fair option: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Arcade-JAMMA-60-in-1-Kit-w-2-Joysticks-4-8-way-16-Push-Buttons-MAME-/251336973880?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a84d9de38
You probably will have to order from more than one vendor, the trick is to find the most efficient combination of vendors to get the parts you want.   ;D

That ebay link has a Jamma harness so you'll need to cut it up and add some more QDs for your setup.


Scott

PwnFx

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13
  • Last login:March 15, 2014, 11:20:47 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #23 on: February 28, 2014, 06:14:32 pm »
I've been continuing to look around ebay for the cheapest "all-in-one" setup so I don't have to order pieces individually, and this seems to be a fair option: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Arcade-JAMMA-60-in-1-Kit-w-2-Joysticks-4-8-way-16-Push-Buttons-MAME-/251336973880?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a84d9de38
You probably will have to order from more than one vendor, the trick is to find the most efficient combination of vendors to get the parts you want.   ;D

That ebay link has a Jamma harness so you'll need to cut it up and add some more QDs for your setup.


Scott

Oh boy... This is starting to get discouraging. Lol.

PL1

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9672
  • Last login:Today at 07:30:55 pm
  • Designated spam hunter
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #24 on: February 28, 2014, 06:36:19 pm »
There are a lot of options.   :lol

If you want to narrow the number of vendors while keeping a good selection of quality products,  GGG, Ultimarc and Paradise Arcade offer just about anything you want/need.


Scott

PwnFx

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13
  • Last login:March 15, 2014, 11:20:47 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #25 on: February 28, 2014, 09:11:11 pm »
There are a lot of options.   :lol

If you want to narrow the number of vendors while keeping a good selection of quality products,  GGG, Ultimarc and Paradise Arcade offer just about anything you want/need.

Scott

What are the advantages of the KADE vs. ipac-2? Being at the lower price range for the KADE you linked ($29), it seems to be more within my budget.
I've been wracking my brain trying to come up with an overall cost to the whole project, because honestly, even if I had loads of money to spend, my woman does not allow me to spend "too much". Which she thinks $150 is too much, but I disagree.

So I need to buy: Materials to build -> Plywood, MDF, Melamine? @ $25-35 per 8x4 sheet. Not sure how many sheets I need yet.
Speaker solution: Amp + car speakers / PC speakers - @ $25ish
Control panel: Encoder @$30-$40, Buttons $?, Joysticks $?
Hinges for a door on the front, let's say $10?
Paint... $20-30?

What else am I forgetting to include in my costs?

PL1

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9672
  • Last login:Today at 07:30:55 pm
  • Designated spam hunter
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #26 on: February 28, 2014, 10:17:15 pm »
What are the advantages of the KADE vs. ipac-2? Being at the lower price range for the KADE you linked ($29), it seems to be more within my budget.
The IPac is a great product, but the two advantages of the KADE are lower price and the flexibility of the firmware choices.

If you really want to keep the costs down on the encoder and wiring, you can get the bare AVR and solder wires like these or these along with a daisy-chain from Paradise.

The time and effort savings and the consistent crimps make the daisy-chain a no-brainer good investment IMHO.   ;D


Scott

PwnFx

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13
  • Last login:March 15, 2014, 11:20:47 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #27 on: February 28, 2014, 11:54:54 pm »
What are the advantages of the KADE vs. ipac-2? Being at the lower price range for the KADE you linked ($29), it seems to be more within my budget.
The IPac is a great product, but the two advantages of the KADE are lower price and the flexibility of the firmware choices.

If you really want to keep the costs down on the encoder and wiring, you can get the bare AVR and solder wires like these or these along with a daisy-chain from Paradise.

The time and effort savings and the consistent crimps make the daisy-chain a no-brainer good investment IMHO.   ;D


Scott

Is there a guide or tutorial or general information area where I can learn about different wring setups, to fully understand what I'm getting myself into? I mean so far from the video I watched, it seems pretty straightforward, but I don't know much about wiring things.
The most I've ever done, is I build/fix computers in my spare time, and the connectors for the front panel switches to the motherboard, but it's as easy as sliding the pre-labeled end over the pin on the motherboard..

[edit] Last time I tried to solder, I pushed the soldering iron through the motherboard of an xbox controller. Lol, I'd rather stay away from soldering if possible.

[edit2] I see a lot of people using those cheapo zero delay encoders found on ebay for around $12, I know it's a hassle to configure them for some games, but in general, for a 10 year old, once I'm through with the frustration of configuring the thing, it'll do it's purpose, right?
I can always upgrade the entire panel setup in the future when I can afford something better, but as of right now, I'm getting yelled at for even considering spending as much as I foresee, so I really have to cut costs down. I may even end up going with a somewhat "slim" design similar to the vigolix, but not quite as small/slim, just to save in cost of materials.
« Last Edit: March 01, 2014, 12:27:20 am by PwnFx »

PL1

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9672
  • Last login:Today at 07:30:55 pm
  • Designated spam hunter
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #28 on: March 01, 2014, 01:16:27 am »
There's a basic explaination here in the FAQ showing two buttons.

There are also KADE specific example pics, including a 2 KADE setup, here.

Thanks for asking about this -- I just asked the KADE team to update the page now that Extended Mode is available.  :cheers:


Scott

DeLuSioNal29

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+6)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4779
  • Last login:July 11, 2025, 09:17:44 am
  • Build the impossible -"There is no Spoon"
    • DeLuSioNaL's YouTube Videos
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #29 on: March 02, 2014, 02:47:56 am »
Quote
Is there a guide or tutorial or general information area where I can learn about different wring setups, to fully understand what I'm getting myself into? I mean so far from the video I watched, it seems pretty straightforward, but I don't know much about wiring things.
Start by watching these videos here:  http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,80229.msg837804.html#msg837804

DeLuSioNaL29
Stop by my Youtube channel and leave a comment:

PwnFx

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 13
  • Last login:March 15, 2014, 11:20:47 pm
  • I want to build my own arcade controls!
Re: I hope I'm in the right place!
« Reply #30 on: March 06, 2014, 07:05:45 pm »
There's a basic explaination here in the FAQ showing two buttons.

There are also KADE specific example pics, including a 2 KADE setup, here.

Thanks for asking about this -- I just asked the KADE team to update the page now that Extended Mode is available.  :cheers:


Scott
Thank you. :)
Quote
Is there a guide or tutorial or general information area where I can learn about different wring setups, to fully understand what I'm getting myself into? I mean so far from the video I watched, it seems pretty straightforward, but I don't know much about wiring things.
Start by watching these videos here:  http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,80229.msg837804.html#msg837804

DeLuSioNaL29
Very useful thread, thank you for making it and linking it!