Author Topic: Rowe Saturn Jukebox Amplifier problems (Read 43891 times)

ed12 · « **Reply #80 on:** October 25, 2013, 10:47:33 pm »

at this point the speaker outputs are a mute point..
as they olny come into play once where have chked the driver boards
and made sure they are ok...
we are olny going to jump in the 2 bulbs to do exactely as i said
they will act as a fuse in a out side manor..this means we can tell
what is going on after the :fuses:,before we replace the fuses with new fuses
that will save u some time and $$$$
this is a normal bench test for any tech,bench tech
i do it on the road..i can tell from the light what is going on :down-stream:=load
once i am happy..i will replace the fuses..carry on
for u 2 equal lights25/40/60 <best> 60 or 100 watt
u can then test away with about 80% know u will not blow any down stream up
by keeping an eye on the light..
simple but works,>ol-school<

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #81 on:** October 25, 2013, 10:59:52 pm »

That is awesome! Ok,So should I go ahead and put this thing back together for to be ready for the next step?

ed12 · « **Reply #82 on:** October 25, 2013, 11:50:46 pm »

once we do a few chks with the meter
then by all means yes
until then keep both driver boards out..
it is to late for me tonight to go any futher
but u are about to get another lesson about your meter

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #83 on:** October 25, 2013, 11:59:09 pm »

Ok, no problem ed. Thanks again. Sorry if it seems as if I am not grasping it, I just want to make sure what I do is right. I dont want to screw it up because of my own stupidiy.

amandandme197 · « **Reply #84 on:** October 26, 2013, 12:11:54 am »

Ed, Shawn and Ken, I appreciate all of your help. If it were not for people like you guys, us newbies would not have a leg to stand on. Everybody learns some time, andI just happen to be a late learner and you guys are teaching me. Thank you for your time and patience.

lilshawn · « **Reply #85 on:** October 26, 2013, 12:26:40 am »

the light bulb would be used in place of the fuse. it's going to act as a current limiter.

basically you jump the burned out fuse with the bulb filament. when the bulb is inserted in the fuse holder, instead of a fuse that would burn out right away, the lightbulb lights up. the brighter the light, the more current that is flowing.

from this, you can deduce...

A) something is shorted out because the lightbulb comes on really bright.

B) something is open because the lightbulb doesn't come on at all.

c) nothing is wrong because the bulb comes on dim (or at least not as bright as it would be if it was shorted)

ed12 · « **Reply #86 on:** October 26, 2013, 12:36:20 am »

lilshawn
thk-u very much
i thought i had it a tad backwards
but the point is the same
lets get to these drivers
and by all means please..correct me as i go

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #87 on:** October 26, 2013, 01:30:29 am »

Ook, so do you think i need to order more trans, or do you think there may be a chance i didnt blow my new ones?

ed12 · « **Reply #88 on:** October 26, 2013, 11:29:52 am »

at this point we are going to save our money
and do a few tests incase u need more then just the finals
i suggest u get the light bypass made up
and tell me the size of bulb u are going to use
etc etc

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #89 on:** October 26, 2013, 02:18:09 pm »

Sounds good buddy, I will work on that today.

amandandme197 · « **Reply #90 on:** October 26, 2013, 04:13:40 pm »

Never realized how hard it is to solder wires on a rolling light bulb. Finally used a drinking glass to hold it and all is done.

ed12 · « **Reply #91 on:** October 26, 2013, 04:51:23 pm »

congrads
u have 2 bulbs right ?
and what are there wattage..>important for me to know<
this way i can do the math..

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #92 on:** October 26, 2013, 05:04:17 pm »

Thank you sir. Yes, two bulbs, 60watts each.

ed12 · « **Reply #93 on:** October 26, 2013, 08:31:03 pm »

60 watts is great
easy math
let me unload my service stuff
and i will get out the manual and start u on using your meter to chk the driver transistors,easy enough to do :once u get the hang of it:,
then we chk the usual stuff,resisters and such..even though i do not think your meter will give what i want from the 5 watters,what is that saying nothing venered nothing gained...
will get back to in a byte or 3

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #94 on:** October 26, 2013, 09:36:12 pm »

Awesome, sounds good.

ed12 · « **Reply #95 on:** October 26, 2013, 10:02:40 pm »

ok on the driver board find q4 and q7..set your meter to the lowest ohms scale
short there probes togother to make sure your meter deflects all the other way
get back to me..in my manual it olny shows the right channel..so i will have to asume
that the left driver board will be listed the same
we start there..find them transistors first..they are the driver transistors

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #96 on:** October 26, 2013, 10:31:13 pm »

Ok, getting ready to put my little one to bed, and i will be right back

amandandme197 · « **Reply #97 on:** October 26, 2013, 10:51:09 pm »

Ok ed, I put it on RX1 and it topped ouf like you said. Ready to go. I will check those and let you know

amandandme197 · « **Reply #98 on:** October 26, 2013, 10:58:10 pm »

Bothe boards q4 and q7 seem to be reading 5 ohms

amandandme197 · « **Reply #99 on:** October 26, 2013, 11:02:37 pm »

What is the ohms adjustment dial next to the voltage switch need to be at. All the way up or down?

ed12 · « **Reply #100 on:** October 26, 2013, 11:32:33 pm »

for the moment the lowest
so if 100 is the lowest.? then that is the 1 we use
if it is 10 then that is the 1 we use
u see the :range-switch: sets the max value
so lets say 10k is a range..and u place a 10k resister across the porbes
it should read 10k or very colse give or take 5%/10% etc
so if 100 ohm is the lowest then the same applys
with the driver at first we want to use the lowest range
all we are going to do is to see if we have a short--/b-c/b-e/e-c
simple tests
then we will change range a tad to make sure we are not :leaking:,if not we can deduce that the drivers are good,we then move on to the diodes using the same method..1 range then another..
if all chks out good
then will place in our lights as fuse's >loads<
and do some vcc chks
on your meter this will be >dc<
range here same applys but we tweak the range, but that comes after we do some simple transistor chks

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #101 on:** October 26, 2013, 11:45:05 pm »

Ok, all read good except both q4's e&c read very low

ed12 · « **Reply #102 on:** October 27, 2013, 12:00:20 am »

ok thats a pnp
can u remove them without hurting the transistor or the board.?
plus u did not do the reverse chk yet..but that is ok..
if u can remove them we go from there
i almost want to have u pm me your phone # so i can call u
but as i want the public to know this..i cannot type and explain at the same time.

and there is nothing across e-c that should cause that ?
if u can remove them do so..we will double chk

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #103 on:** October 27, 2013, 12:04:03 am »

So completely unsolder them?

ed12 · « **Reply #104 on:** October 27, 2013, 12:21:33 am »

at least 2 legs yes
make sure the legs are free
go easy....solder wick or a solder sucker is handy right now

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #105 on:** October 27, 2013, 12:30:11 am »

Well, you want me to remove them completely, right.?

amandandme197 · « **Reply #106 on:** October 27, 2013, 12:33:33 am »

Actually have to get off here ed, but if you want, we can complete tomorrow. I will pm my phone number if that may help you. Thanks buddy

ed12 · « **Reply #107 on:** October 27, 2013, 01:33:25 pm »

if it is easier for u to complety remove them?
then by all means yes,1 at a time,once have chked it u put it back in then move on to the next 1,we are getting somewhere now

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #108 on:** October 27, 2013, 08:44:35 pm »

OK, I dug out a soldering iron and a solder sucker out of my old bag of electronics tools and devices. Trans is unsoldered.

ed12 · « **Reply #109 on:** October 27, 2013, 10:37:31 pm »

ok good to hear
man that puts a smile on the face
now u have 3 legs
base=b
collector=c
emitor=e
we will go to low ohms rx10
and we will go black to b red to c we will look for full meter movement
if we get that the tansistor is bad
we then do the same b to e
we the reverse the probes
red to b
black to c
then to e
what we are trying to find is if we have a :shorted transistor:
foward breakdown voltage is .5v so we may need to jump up 1 knotch on the ohm scale.?
but we will cross that bridge soon enough
long way for us to go..but u will do this for each of the drivers
4 in total
as u remove it 1 of 4 and are happey with it place it back in
then go to the next 1
i will dig out a analog multi in the afternoon and go hand to hand with u
just finishing up some power supplys tonight
so i really can not go alot futher
maybe shawn can chime in ?

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #110 on:** October 27, 2013, 10:45:16 pm »

Sounds good buddy. I will see what I get. Thanks again, and talk to you soon.

ed12 · « **Reply #111 on:** October 27, 2013, 10:57:56 pm »

here this should help clear up some of the mud

>http://www.elexp.com/t_test.htm<
read it complete
print if u can for refernce
u will get a darn good idea,the rest is a cake walk

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #112 on:** October 27, 2013, 11:09:41 pm »

Will do. Thank you sir!

amandandme197 · « **Reply #113 on:** October 29, 2013, 10:17:16 pm »

Ok, all looks to be ok and is soldered back to the board.

ed12 · « **Reply #114 on:** October 29, 2013, 10:50:52 pm »

ok great news..

now we move on the same way
make sure u do all 4 of them >drivers<
then we will chk some diodes >easy as hell as we olny lift 1 lead<
if all chks out good? we move on to phase 2..:lights:,if that turns out good
we spend our money on the finals..and fuses..
like i said 1 step at a time..take your time,i will be here for ya..
hope that guide worked for you ?

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #115 on:** October 29, 2013, 11:14:32 pm »

Awesome ed. Yes, it helped a lot, thank you. What diods need checking

ed12 · « **Reply #116 on:** October 29, 2013, 11:38:21 pm »

hi
i went over shawns pdf..the olny real thing they did change from what i can see
is they went to self biaisng..so that pdf is very very revelent in our case
so snag it please..the self biaising diodes i will spec for u,but all diodes in the driver chain need to be chked..
if all is good move on to the first light test..where we chk vcc and -vcc
then we order parts
and repair amp
glad that link worked for u >

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #117 on:** October 29, 2013, 11:41:32 pm »

Sounds good ed, i will check it out. I may need your help with the light test. Thanks again buddy.

ed12 · « **Reply #118 on:** October 30, 2013, 12:05:36 am »

light test is easy...
we will put the lights in place of the fuses..
then we will pre test the amp >without finals<
we will then chk vcc ranges to make sure they are with in range
if all chks out.?
we order what we now know we need
and do a final test with the lights to save our spearkers
fuses are cheaper..
we then put our speakers to it..enjoy our music and high 5's

ed

amandandme197 · « **Reply #119 on:** October 30, 2013, 12:10:48 am »

Hey ed, is there some way you could send me that download shawn put up. My device will not download it or open it at all for some reason. I think it is my tablet.


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