Router Bits and control panel woodworking

[Tzakiel]

I'm going to be building my first control panel and just got a Dewalt router.  I think the two things I need to do with the router are:

1. Recess the 1/2" wood to 1/4" where buttons go (and also recess the joystick a bit for top mount)
2. Cut the groove along outside for t-molding (not sure what depth and width of this groove should be?)
3. I might also need it to cut the plexiglass shape?  Not sure if this is jigsaw or router job. It's just rounded corners in front.

Question is - what are the right bits to buy for these tasks?

Edit - ALSO, I have no experience with a router. I have saw horses, some scrap ply to use as a table, and I have clamps.  Anything else I need besides bits to get the job done?

[CaptainMarvel]

There are a good number of "how to" tutorial videos on YouTube for how to use a router - including some demonstrating someone flush trimming their MAME cabinet sides.  Some simple searching on YouTube will yield you some helpful results and visual education (as they did me).

Another very helpful resource - as is the ArcadeControls Community Forum - is THE ROUTER FORUMS - a community dedicated to everything router.  They are very friendly to newcomers over there - and there is a wealth of information and education to be had.


Hope that helps a bit.

 

[shponglefan]

1. Recess the 1/2" wood to 1/4" where buttons go (and also recess the joystick a bit for top mount)

Top-bearing flush trim bit is probably your best bet.  This will allow you the option of doing this either by hand or using a template.  Personally, the latter option is my preferred method since it gives a cleaner result.  I can post a template example later if you would like (when I return home).

2. Cut the groove along outside for t-molding (not sure what depth and width of this groove should be?)

Slot cutter.  The depth/width will depend on the T-Molding.

3. I might also need it to cut the plexiglass shape?  Not sure if this is jigsaw or router job. It's just rounded corners in front.

I'd highly recommend using a router for this.  You'll need a flush trim bit, either top or bottom bearing depending on the orientation of the plexi.  I generally use a top bearing bit, as this way I can clamp the control panel on top of the plexi, and then trim it to the exact size.

Edit - ALSO, I have no experience with a router. I have saw horses, some scrap ply to use as a table, and I have clamps.  Anything else I need besides bits to get the job done?

You should be okay, although you'll want to make sure you have a stable base.  You might need to weigh down your makeshift table, because you don't want things moving while you are routing.

[Tzakiel]

Thanks so much for your reply. That was very helpful.  I would very much like a template example. I actually have no idea how a template is used, however... guess I need to hit up youtube. I will be mounting Sanwa JLF sticks and OBSN buttons if that matters.

For drilling the button holes and joystick holes in MDF, I was anticipating just using a hole saw and drill if I can find 30mm and 24mm ones.  Same for the Plexi. Does that work or should I be using the router for that, too?  I saw someone on here struggling with plexi and the router, I think, and he preferred a hole saw.

[shponglefan]

^ I use hole saws and a hand drill for 30mm and 24mm holes.  And this goes for drilling both MDF and plexi.

[Tzakiel]

^ I use hole saws and a hand drill for 30mm and 24mm holes.  And this goes for drilling both MDF and plexi.

Cool... do you drill both at once clamped together, or get the CP done and then drill the plexi clamped on top or something?

[shponglefan]

^ I drill the CP first, then I clamp down the plexi and drill that, using the CP piece as a guide.

[Tzakiel]

^ I drill the CP first, then I clamp down the plexi and drill that, using the CP piece as a guide.

I see... so I imagine you would actually drill from under the bottom of the CP into the plexi below... on top of scrap.

This is how I imagine it:

 | || |
   ||
   ||    Drill with hole saw
   \/
------------------------
CP with holes
------------------------
------------------------
Plexi
------------------------
------------------------
Scrap
------------------------


Or did you mean just mark/trace the holes from the CP onto the plexi, then remove and drill only plexi? I'd be worried about the hole saw catching the edge of the CP, but not sure without seeing it myself.

[shponglefan]

^ The first scenario (i.e.  I clamp down the plexi and then clamp the CP on top of it).  That way, it ensures that the holes in the plexi perfectly line up with the holes in the CP.

Also, here's a sample template and how I use it:



I top-mount my joysticks, so the template has two parts.  The top is the cut out for the main joystick body; the bottom part is for the mounting plate.  To route out the joystick, I do the following:

1) Mark the center of the joystick on the CP piece, and then draw horizontal and vertical lines in a crosshair style so the center of the crosshair is the center of the joystick.
2) Line up the crosshairs with the pencil lines on the template, and clamp down the template to the CP piece (template on top).  I start with the top part of the template (the main joystick cutout).
3) Trace the outline of the joystick with a pen onto the CP piece.
4) Remove the template, and then using a combo of a jigsaw and drill, cut a rough size of the joystick cutout, making sure to keep within the lines.
5) Reclamp the template on top of the CP piece and using a top-bearing flush trim bit, route out the hole to the exact size of the template cutout.
6) Reclamp the template to the CP piece so that the mounting plate part is lined up. 
7) Again using a top-bearing flush trim bit, route out the area for the mounting plate.  Note that I only need to go down about 1/8 of an inch or so.

The end result is a joystick cutout that looks like this:



This is specifically for a top-mounted joystick.  If you are bottom mounting, you can either just recess an area for the top mounting plate (if that is all you are mounting), or possibly both the top mounting plate AND the main body of the joystick.  It depends on how deeply you want the joystick recessed.  Also note that you'll have to do things in the opposite order listed for top mounting.  IOW, you'll need to route out the mounting plate area first, then possibly route out additional space for the main body of the joystick.

Also, note that this is entirely dependent on the physical characteristics of the joystick.

[Tzakiel]

Thanks... looks great.  I am also doing a JLF and plan to do top mount. I am not sure how to make a template or anything but I suppose I will learn.  For the plate I assume I can just trace the plate in the template scrap. For the switch part, not sure.

Among the flush trim bits, seems there are quite a few options for length.... what is a good one to start with for control panels?  Something that will work with the MDF and the plexi would be ideal, if I can use the same for both?

[shponglefan]

^ To make the template, I use the joystick and trace out a rough shape with a pen.  Then I cut out a rough shape using a jigsaw, then route the edges by clamping down a straight edge as a guide.  The nice thing about making templates is that if you screw one up, you can always make another. 

And for bit length, the flush trim bits I use are 1 inch long.  As long as it's longer than the material you are routing, you'll be okay.  And yes, you can use the same for plexi and MDF.  FWIW, I use Freud bits.

Good luck with your project!  And don't worry, this whole router/template/etc thing isn't too hard once you get the hang of it.  In fact, the trickiest thing I usually find is just making sure everything is clamped appropriately! 

[Tzakiel]

Thanks again, I'm feeling much more confident about the work now.

I notice you didn't recess your button holes in the pic. Are those going to be OBSN?  I was under the impression they have to be at around 1/4"

[shponglefan]

The buttons have a recessed area underneath.  I use Seimitsu buttons.  Between the MDF and the plexi, I think the total thickness is around 3/8" or so.  It's enough for the buttons (screw in style) and Pele LEDs (not pictured).

[CaptainMarvel]

This is probably a dumb newbie question .... but how is the plexiglass secured to the control panel?

 

[Tzakiel]

I've read the buttons holding it down plus the lip of t molding should be enough. Paper art can go between.

I'm also thinking how does the cp get secured to the cabinet... I am using a uaii and I think brackets are provided to screw it down but that means visible screw holes and makes it hard to service the pcb etc. I think I will do hinges.

[shponglefan]

This is probably a dumb newbie question .... but how is the plexiglass secured to the control panel?

 

Buttons! 

T-molding also helps because it keeps the edges from getting inadvertently lifted up.

[CaptainMarvel]

This is probably a dumb newbie question .... but how is the plexiglass secured to the control panel?

 

Buttons! 

T-molding also helps because it keeps the edges from getting inadvertently lifted up.

So it's essentially "loose" - but held down securely via the buttons through the control panel?   

[shponglefan]

Buttons! 

T-molding also helps because it keeps the edges from getting inadvertently lifted up.

So it's essentially "loose" - but held down securely via the buttons through the control panel?   

Yes.  And the buttons do a very good job holding the plexi down.

[Tzakiel]

Dumb question but with a top bearing flush trim bit, do I always need to work off a hole or can I just push the spinning bit right down into fresh wood to make a recess area in middle of board?

[AlienInferno]

Dumb question but with a top bearing flush trim bit, do I always need to work off a hole or can I just push the spinning bit right down into fresh wood to make a recess area in middle of board?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

I was always told\taught that you should start with a hole.  But when I cut out the holes in my plexi for my control panel I just very carefully lowered it down into the plexi.  It was sandwhiched between my CP and a scrap piece but the bit did work it's way through the plexi and into the scrap MDF piece rather easily.

Other more experienced wood workers may say otherwise though.

[shponglefan]

Dumb question but with a top bearing flush trim bit, do I always need to work off a hole or can I just push the spinning bit right down into fresh wood to make a recess area in middle of board?

Start with the hole. 

[CaptainMarvel]

Start with the hole.

That's what she said




(sorry, couldn't resist)

[Sarver Systems]

Start with one hole, and end with the other. 

[Richardgregory]

Has anyone ever tried a Dremel #569 1/16 grout removal bit with the plastic guide to make the groove for the T moulds?

[Tzakiel]

I've made some progress planning this project and am now posting questions in my build thread:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135197.0.html

If anyone has any insight about building and painting MDF boxes, I could sure use it there!